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This Bronco 14 was listed on MP, about a 75 mile round trip, all for $100. The owner was cleaning his place up and wanted it gone and I seen it at the right time. It does have some PO mods and it is pretty greasy around the lift and engine. I haven't heard it run,but the owner says it runs good,we will see. I will work on it tomorrow and see. The horsey hub caps are crusty and it has a replacement engine. The Cub Cadet seat is adjustable!!

Picked up a load of horses. Getting them dialed in as they have been sitting for 7 years .

Fitted a new solonoid and cleaned the ignition contacts. She now starts on the key.

Me and Jacob had are last pull of the year today! He came home with a first place trophy for the belt drive class beating me by 2 feet! And 5th in the turf class out of 25 also beating me by 2 feet also, I took 7th. We also did a buddy pull that was really fun and took 5th out of 10! Lots of big money tractors there so I feel my mostly stock wheel horses held there own! 20221001_170116.mp4 20221001_125043.mp4 20221001_125905.mp4 20221001_130716.mp4

600 hour 520. I’m not sure of the history so I’ll do a decarb and do valve job. I’ll use this winter for pushing snow and give my 160 the winter off. I’ll use it this winter and sell it in the spring.

Added another 25 lb weight to each front wheel for a totalof 100 lbs on the front axle and 320 lbs of cast weights on the rear axle. Should hopefully help with both the moldboard and snow plowing. Changed the headlights over to LEDs.

I was fixing up my 42" plow and was very indecisive about all red, or black frame and red plow. Seeing what you did here made up my mind. Got a lot done on mine today. I will be trying out a polyurethane cutting edge sandwiched between the plow and the old cutting edge to help protect the newly poured driveway.

So... the Zagray Tractor Show / Flea market was a bust for us yesterday. @wallfish @Sparky @Retired Wrencher and others where gonna meet up. We all bailed when the weatherman guaranteed 100% we where doomed--they where wrong AGAIN. Sparky and I decided to go this morning and walk around for the heck of it. I saw this genset and decided it was just cool enough to tinker with. Took it home and it had a hung valve... fixed that and it started on a couple pulls. 7/23/1958 build date 20221002_155456.mp4

Airing the old girls out... Don

Unusual WH mod for sale in my local CL

I have gone on several trips for trucks. I live near Wichita Kansas and I have traveled the following places for vehicles: - Boston Massachusetts for a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins -Sioux City Iowa for a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins - Leander Texas for a 2004 Jetta TDI -Tampa Florida for a 1995 Ram 2500 Cummins -Lincoln Nebraska for a 1978 Ford F-350 Crew Cab The only trip I have taken that was more than a few hours for a wheel horse item was up to see HCminis and pick up an 854 and some implements in Indiana. My wife is a champ and drove our 2006 Ram with a car trailer all the way there and back. We stopped in Springfield at Lamberts and ate, the went to the Heather Hills Cheese store. Went to St. Louis and ate at Parkers Table and went to the St. Louis Botanical Gardens. Stopped to see DJ in Indiana and pick up the wheel horse and attachments. Drove up to Indiana State Dunes. Drove through the suburbs of Chicago and ate at Giordanos. Then we started the long drive home.

I've always been big on getting water away from the house. Typically that means gutters. I don't think gutters really contribute to ice dams and buildup as long as, like has been said, you have adequate insulation and ventilation in your attic. But there's the issue of cleaning them if leaves are an issue for you. So gutter guards come into play. But they can cause problems too. Here's my 2¢worth based on my experience with them. First, with this internet picture. Avoid these and any of the derivatives out there. Their function is marginal. Leaves and other crap will still get in. They create a perfect wasp hotel. They are intrusive to your shingles. They CAUSE ice buildup. The reason for that is even with great insulation and ventilation under certain conditions water will freeze on them. There are days in the winter where it's below freezing and the sun is shining. The roof absorbs some of that heat, snow melts and it hits the still freezing metal causing it to freeze up. On a previous house we had a horrible problem with ice buildup. We had plenty of insulation and great ventilation AND this style of gutter guards were on the house when we moved in. The first four things I mentioned were reason enough to remove them so I did. Bingo! The ice problem totally went away. We sold that house and moved to the one we're in now. No ice problem but a leaf problem and my bones are getting too old for the constant cleaning to keep them flowing good. I tried several ways to do it from the ground but it was getting old. Enter the gutter guard research. Here are three of the styles I considered. On the left is a low priced unit. I looked at several similar products. The biggest problems I saw was wasps could still get in and pine needles and leaf stems would get themselves stuck. There are also quite flimsy. In the middle in a bit of an improvement and a little more expensive. But the fine mesh you see is just plastic and was coming off right out of the box. On the right is what I consider a major improvement and also more expensive in a major way. A lot stronger and the mesh is stainless steel. I wondered if water would refreeze before it made it through the mesh. Only time could tell me that. We now have these on our house. Last winter we had above average snowfall and I kept close tabs on them. So far absolutely zero issues with ice leaves or wasps. So far I'm loving them.

When towing something a bit on the heavy side the Cinnamon Horse C160 gets a little front end light going up our steepest couple hills. I've been meaning to add some weight for a few weeks. After swapping out the brake shoe last weekend I wanted to go out and get a trailer full of firewood 🪵🪓 I figured I'd see what I had laying around for usable ballast. This morning when I was looking for something else I remembered this was here... Fella I got it from a few years ago said a relative of his used it on a Kubota B series. It came with a couple other weights. One of them's on Trina's 867 Pigpen. This conglomeration is apparently a 6" diameter by 6" tall steel cylinder. The thinner two are pieces of lolly column. Seems to me the assembly weighs around 90, 95 lbs. Cool part is it sets right in the middle of the Mackissic chipper bracket. One bolt to hold it in place.

Sorry folks. Had some electrical issues to fix. Momma bear likes the light and fan to work in the bathroom….. The top tool came from a retired mechanic who used to work for NYC DOT on the Staten Island Ferry. It’s a large pair of adjustable pliers. Possibly used for steam fittings. For what exact kind of fastener, I cannot say. I’d like to know more about it myself. The lower tool is nautical in nature, too. It wasn’t uncommon in the days of wind powered sailing ships to moor off shore with an anchor. Often the wind would push your ship around and anchor chains would foul, preventing your ship from weighing anchor. This hook is known as a “trip hook.” It would hook the fouled chain allowing your anchor to be free and weighed. The small ring was for a second line to dump the offending chain out of the bight of the hook. These are still used today, but they aren’t made of wrought iron like this beauty. Cheers! Dave

I still have a gun with Red n Tacky in it.

Ice dams are caused by heat escaping through the ceiling into the attic where it warms the roof sheathing and melts the snow on the roof deck. When that melt waiter flows over the unseated eave it can freeze and build up as ice. A heat cable in the gutter and over the eave will help but the real solution is to minimize the heat loss with adequate insulation. Also, ice and water shield on the roof deck covering the eaves and at least 2’ plumb up from the inside of the exterior wall is required by most codes now. Additionally, proper attic ventilation from the eave soffit directly under the sheathing extending 2’ beyond the top of the insulation on the attic floor. You can rent insulation blowing machines and add to the R value of you ceiling with cellulose or fiberglass pretty easily. Some suppliers even let you use their machine if you buy the insulation from them. It will not only help eliminate ice dams it’ll help lower your heating bill.

My own house... Absolutely NOT. We've thought about installing gutters here for several years to collect, direct and use the rain water for specific purposes like garden irrigation or animal watering. We haven't done it yet for exactly the reason you mention. Ice dams. It's a local code or rule issue in some places. There are areas where watershed collection is governed. There are houses and yards where the engineers have designed in certain watershed expectations. You could also consider installing a heat wire to the first few feet of your roof. Now that we have a metal roof on the house and soon will have one on the new pole barn we've been discussing a collection system again.

I like red but not everything red, so I try to break it up here and there your plow looks great! If you need new decals check out redoyourhorse.com good price great product.

I once drove my C-175 about 1/2 mile up the road to get gas. By the time I got back, I had to go again!

It looks like you got a good deal on a plow for $100, with a free tractor and mowing deck. Well done!

Made 16 bean soup for the Packer game today and absolutely awesome. Pretty sure this was a ham bone you made at Portage @Pullstart I gnawed at it before it went to the dogs ... sure did have the flavor of your glaze.

We provided some EF (entertainment factor) on Half Moon lake today. My wife and I took our last curse around the lake this afternoon, and pulled up to our dock. Starched the pontoon trailer to the truck, put my swim suit on and met my wife back at the dock. Our intention was for her to drive the pontoon to the boat ramp where I would meet her with the trailer - she didn't want to back the trailer down the boat ramp. Meanwhile, my wife's cousin, who lives 2 doors down the shore has one of his radio control model boats out on the water. I noticed that the boat was farther out on the lake than he usually runs. I looked at him over on his dock to see him fiddling with his transmitter.Not looking good, I'm thinking. "Gary, you got the boat?" I holler. "Nope" he answers back. I watch this 3 1/2' long, 20 pound Miami Vice type boat run 20, maybe 30 mph go all the way across the lake - about a 1/2 mile. Fortunately, the lake was pretty much deserted, and the family with kids that frequent where the boat came ashore were not home. I waved my wife in to pick me up from our dock, I take over piloting our pontoon, go pick Gary up from his dock, and proceed across the lake to rescue the toy boat. Gary is 74 years old and not moving as well as he used to, so I hopped off of the pontoon to pick up the toy boat. It had come to a stop at least 15 feet from the water's edge on the lawn. The motor was still running when I got to it. I popped the hatch, and unplugged one of the battery leads. Back onto the pontoon, toy boat safely in hand, throttle the pontoon up to get back across the lake. Pontoon comes up on plane, then the engine starts surging, then dies. Out of gas! Now the rescue mission needs rescue. I break the oar out and start paddling - against the wind. Fortunately, one of the two other boats out on the lake is somebody we know. They give us a tow back to our dock. Nice visit with them along the way. Looks like the pontoon will get pulled out of the lake tomorrow. Could not have been a nicer day for this to happen. Clear blue skies, temps in the high 60's, autumn colors just starting to pop.

Tractor is up and running again. Thank you all for the advice!

Here is what I did to repair the Hood stand where the seat bar attaches. Not being a welder, it does not look pretty. I think it will hold. I made the bracket from bed frame material. You will note that I notched the piece to clear the nut plates on the side panels. When I do the next one on my SK486 I will not cut the notch. Then I will leave space for the side panel to slide between the repair piece and the hood stand (removing the nut plates of course). Drill and tap the repair piece for the shift plate screws.

Snoopified... and added some extra lights... (I realized that I couldn't see the sides of the mowing deck when I run the machine in the dark)... Don

"tis finished... Don

When we bought our house (average snowfall about 2 inches every 5 years or so), there were giant White Oaks on our wooded lot. I could see what we were in store for and commenced to getting estimates from gutter companies. We chose the first company that came out and gave us a demo. The Gutter Shutter’s are guaranteed for life against clogging, as are the oversized downspouts. When we have our roof replaced about 3 years ago the roofers discovered deck rot about a foot up from the bottom on significant areas. The rot was caused by improper installation of the starter strip of the shingle roof, not ice dams. The roof job came standard with 2 sheets of OSB , and we needed more. The roofing company allowed me to run to Lowes and buy some instead of paying their price of $75 per sheet. They also installed ice and water shield about 3 ft up from the bottom and valleys. The rot had however caused the facia boards to start pulling away from the ends of the rafters. After the roofers left I went all of the way around the house (about 400 ft) and screwed the facia boards back to the ends of the rafters with 4 inch long screws. By using the long screws I was able to get beyond the ends of the rafters where there was a small amount of rot. To get the screws in I had to remove and replace the tops of the gutters. So I literally hand washed the fronts, tops, and insides of all the gutters on the house. I was quite surprised when I found a very little amount of leaves in the gutters, and nowhere nearly an amount that would cause a clog. When I built my “horse” barn I use gutter from Lowes so that small run is not seamless gutter, but I can live with that. I used the snap on guards that are in the middle of the pic above. I made end caps for the ends to keep birds, not wasps out. I also used those gutter guards on the overhang portion I built onto the front of my shop.

Ordered them last night from him!

All cleaned up and flat, ready to go back on.

@ebinmaine stay after that front end greasing , with that extra load drag , sure you are aware , lucas green , pete

I have found ice damming is caused by poor roof ventilation. As far as gutters, you have to clean them, and if your not concerned about water along the foundation gutters are not necessary.

Nice amount of weight! That'll certainly help. How well do you feel those front tires work for steering in snow n ice? Ever run front chains? Ever tried reversing the tread as discussed a few posts up?

Not a Wheel Horse but this past Monday a gentleman drove to me (Green Bay, WI) from New Jersey for a Case 644 I had for sale. Thought that was pretty crazy.

We go 600+ miles each way annually for Horses… and somehow have never gone to the Big Show without getting more tractors Come spring time, I’ll be going over 900 miles each way for a nice haul….

Well, not me personally, but this past summer my E-141 went to the big show from New York with @buckrancher, my yard art suburban came from Pennsylvania with @mike’shorsebarn to the big show, and @Pullstart then brought them to my place on his way home… then my predator build C-6.5 jumped in @Pullstart’s trailer as payment for a delivery job well done!!! Whew…!!!

This one was on Marketplace for quite a while with a hefty price tag. I ask if he was flexible on price, Nope. After a quite a while longer same question before I made the drive. Come on up, maybe we can make a deal. The rest is history, I didn't steal it, but I'm happy with the deal! Ya I know you want pictures, but there a little more interesting back story. His granddad's business was Nicholson Machine and Equipment and he was a Wheelhorse Dealer in the 50's and 60's in Paris....., Tx that is! He sent me this picture of the glass window from the door to the business that he has framed. He also wrote me a short note about his Granddad's business. So after his he passed, his dad gave the tractor to him. he's had it for quite a few years and said it's always been garage kept. So if a Dealer owned this for his own use and never sold it, and then it passed to his Son, and then Grandson, that would technically make me the 1st buyer, Ok so on to some tractor photo's beautiful double pulley belt guard front and center. It starts with a spray of gas in the carb, but doesn't stay running. All there, nice and original, you can see a weld repair on the front of the belt guard, Here's the serial number @gwest_ca The plastic dash is intact and not cracked! My 1st old style split key. it still has the orignal Silverton Ags. They hold air, but their so hard they probable don't need any. I wonder if their hard because they might still have calcium chloride in them??? The hitch pin isn't frozen and the lift cable even works. Interesting decal plastered across the front of the hood. aluminum gas tank is fairly clean. Hood bottom tab has been repaired. topless view of the engine, needs a bath. The front tires are original and hold air, but have some splits across the thread. Homemade choke and throttle cable bracket. The base of the engine has wet oil, so i suspect it needs some gaskets. Both axle seals are dry, but the input shaft and brake shaft seals leak. I've learned if the top of the transmission is filthy oily, it probable means theirs water in the transmission that has floated the oil out. This one is clean so hopefully that's a good sign. Started some maintenance and a beautiful sight, not a drop of water, just black oil. It shifts through the gears nicely so it will be interesting to see how it runs/drives. I'll gradually go all through it with my checklist. 701 Minor Overhaul Checklist.ods Then have to decide if I rub it down with linseed oil like it is, or buff with some steel wool or wet sand to bring a little more red out, then oil. How would ya'll put your finishing touches on it? I'll update this thread as I do maintenance on it and get it running.

I've built a few in my day

Okay @Mows4three, when are we gonna find out what they are ?… the suspense is unbearable…

just finished complete resto of a 308-8. im sure some purists will frown on my not factory correct rebuild however this is 3 parts tractors cobbled together that would of been rusting away still in someone's yard. It took a couple of years to complete. only because of kids,house projects and my other hobbies taking my time. It was made possible by using this forum as a reference as well as a few vendors i used from this site. Ive always been a "taker" on this site and will love to share the highs and lows of this build. If anyone is going to take on a full restoration like i did and has any questions on where to start, i have a few suggestion's. One upgrade took hours to do and im waiting for some eagle eyed expert here to take notice of a subtle change i made. i havent seen it done, probably cause the time involved wasnt worth it, IMO. It was alot of fun to both resto my 1st tractor as well as start to learn about WH's. I handled all aspects of build and enjoyed the process so much i picked up a B80 as well as a decent parts B80 to do another restomod. It will most likely have to wait until springtime unfortunately. i made a photo album but was only able to upload these 3 pics.

I can see the pocket now, that just might suffice in giving the siding a place to rest. I forget now are you using wood or steel as your siding? I'm thinking you mentioned wood though.

These are, to me, like most products. Understand the strengths and weaknesses and don't ask more of them than they are designed to deliver. I take care of five older B&S engines (both horizontal and vertical) and am getting good service from all of them with just routine maintenance. Regular oil changes, clean air passages, clean and lubed linkages, clean fuel, clean air filters.

The 5xi has nothing to do with Gilson or any other design. Almost everything on it is unique and specific to the 5xi. It was designed ground up from specifications set by the head engineer, marketing and styling department. The origional engineer that designed the transmission at wheel horse was brought in from retirement to do the 5xi transmission. The Daihatsu was not a partnership - it was a Briggs labeled Daihatsu. Denny

@Panther416-8 what I said to ebin is also for you on that assurance of verified lubrication to extra heavy lubrication loading , lucas green grease on every related spot , jack up front end for assurance of flow , made for tough spots , pete

Roof rakes are a requirement for snowy areas. You really only need to take about 10’ up from the gutters. Be careful with rake slamming on shingles, can damage them as a result.

Viagra for seals.... who would have thunk!

Calling dibs on copilot/navigator...

1267 took on zagray today and did awesome.

Happy Birthday Craig! Hope you get some C-165 seat time today!

Excellent job!! New decals should be available through our own @Vinylguy Terry. The more you use it the more you'll understand that most Wheelhorse tractors aren't just a mower/plow/etc... They're EQUIPMENT. A permanent purchase. These were built so incredibly rugged right out the factory door that most of them have real potential to be a lifetime machine. Many of us are still using 60+ year old machines as go-to workers. Let it acclimate slowly and you should be ok. Likely you'll find the Horsie will learn to appreciate good treatment.