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How skilled are you with torches, welders and wrenches? Anything can be done with a bit of imagination and tenacity.

Each Horse in my herd has assigned duties. For several years my go to snow plow tractor was a Charger 12 with a 48" blade, chains and weights. She always did a good job. Last year I put on a 54" blade and some more weight. Not much snow last year but one snow was wet and heavy. The bigger blade really stressed her actually dragged down the engine pushing up hill. Usually with a plow traction is the first slippage but with weights and the LSD in a Charger that wasn't the weak point..we needed more power. So taking advantage the recent rainy days I did some swapping around and made a Charger 16 the new main snow plow tractor. Had to swap tires, weights, hood (for the headlights..odd since in 20 +years I have plowed in the dark twice...) and the plow frame ( as i have centering pin set up) . (next time i may just swap the engine The 70 lbs wheel weights are pita to mount.) She now has 16hp 54" blade and 320lbs of added weights..(took a scale out to weigh things.) . Hope she works out. The charger 12 will get the 42 ' blade with plastic edge and rubber chains to do a short stretch of pavers. Backup is an Charger 16 with the blower but she has seen very limited use the last few years...

While finding a direct replacement engine may be daunting, finding a nice Wheel Horse to totally replace the Yard Man should be fairly easy.

Cleaned out Fred's fuel tank. Have one small rust hole to weld up, then some paint.

All my decks get a Greasy Pete cocktail every fall before they take their winter nap. Old drainings of motor oil, ATF, and outboard lower gear case oil.

Sorry for the bad pics. Will get better ones tomorrow in the sun. Rescued 754 that was not on Billy Orrs list. Excited to get going in it. The tractor will remain units original clothes. No restore or repaint for this one. Was left outside because it has a broke rod. There is another engine here in my garage that will look perfect on it and runs until the original is rebuilt

The electric PTO on my zero turn mower has stopped working (bad switch I think), so I had to once again enlist the help of one of my Wheel Horses. I'd been using the 520-H with a 42SD deck for the small spaces that my zero turn wouldn't fit, but that was a once per week for 10 minutes job. This time I had to break out the 60SD and work the ole girl for several hours. As expected, she didn't complain and did a great (albeit much slower) job. It was well after dark when we finished. Now she needs another bath!

Deestones are just so much smaller than Carlisles or other tires. Here is Carlisle and Deestone, Both are 23 X 10.50 - 12

There's been quite a few threads on this subject and I always enjoy them. I added my 2¢ a several years ago when I used POR 15 on my 42" SD deck. That deck is still going strong with about 95% of the coating still intact. But I won't do that again and here's why. Many of you know the story of me purchasing a new 1976 B-80 and then 'converting' it to a C-160 a couple years later. After the conversion I purchased a new 48" deck for it. Both decks have always been well cared for and after every mowing I would clean the clumped up grass off the underside. I didn't hose it down or worry about making it squeaky clean but I'd just get the bulk of the grass off so it wouldn't hold moisture against the metal. So today, 40+ years later, that deck is also going strong with zero rust. The only time both the decks get an oil coating is right before they go into winter storage. I use whatever I happen to have in an aerosol can at the time. Based on my experience I just don't see the reason to do anything more.

30+ years ago, I made a stainless steel liner for my 48" deck. Not tuff to do, and lasts FOREVER...or LONGER. Take ALL the hardware off of deck shell. Make a cardboard template of the deck flat surface, trimming out ALL the bolt and spindle hole locations. Transfer that template to a sheet of SS and cut it out. Use a 2nd piece of SS about 4-5" wide 60" or so long, and tack it around the inside FRONT vertical face of the deck. NO MORE RUST....EVER!

Clean the grass off of it, paint it with used motor oil, and let it cook in the sun for a few days.

754. Does it have the original engine block? Kohler, Clinton and Tecumseh painted their engines then sent them to Wheel Horse EXCEPT the 754's Kohler 7HP which was pulled from Kohler's stock to help Wheel Horse with the shortage of 8HP engines. The pulled from stock engine will have a different color paint underneath the red paint. Wheel Horse had to call the model 754 because of false advertising if they called it an 854 but it was short1 horsepower. it took a lot of time and phone calls to get information about the 754 out of Wheel Horse. People had a 754 but a lot of dealers could not give them information about the tractor and since only 428 were produced I don't believe an owner's manual was ever printed, if it was, I have never seen one. I understand most of the 754's were sold in northern Indiana but they have turned up in other states. My 754 came from Valparaiso, IN. Another interesting fact is that is used the same length hood as the 854, 1 inch longer then a 753. Whatever you do don't remove that shift pattern decal with serial number on it. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

After about 100hr on this one. I am done. This is my third 1257 I have had and have. I hate to paint these, but the P/O did the outside only It had three shades of red, so that is why I redid the paint. I hope you enjoy the picks.

Before placing any rusted parts in the media blaster it is a good idea to use a needle gun, it will cut your blasting time by 75% and your glass beads will last a lot longer.

My local tire place charges 15 per, last time no charge on 3 because rusty rims had minor leak. Got them home and no leak.

That’s crazy… Discount Tire in April - all 4 tires - old off new on - Carlisle Turf Master - $285…

Well that guy flaked out on me...oh well. The search continues. BTW...thanks for welcoming me in and helpin me even if i aint got a WH. As friendly as yall are i might buy one when im ready for yet another project

Follow the fuel from the source. If it makes it to pump, does it pump fuel to the the carb? If it pumps fuel to the carb, does it fill the bowl? If it fills the bowl, look at the main jet and consider a rebuild of the carb.

You might need to clean out the carburetors.

Got some more parts primed. Over packed the one hanger station, ended up with a run on the mule drive housing, and one of the seat springs cause I was trying to get in with the gun to hard spots, then overspray built up too fast outside the target area. So in a few days, I’ll have some sanding to do, then maybe touch up prime those parts. Prolly use the rattle can for that. So, lesson learned, slow down dummy (me) or make more hanger space, or both. Gonna rain on Sunday which is a bummer. Was hoping to get some color down on the rims, maybe the frame.

Yes... I am in fact somewhat offended!

A classic "Rube Goldberg" type of device that takes the long road for the short trip. Quite ingenious, really - and entertaining.

Perfect thank you! Thats the problem...not so much. Ive always been pretty good at finding things to work where they arnt supposed to, but fab is not my fortay.

TSA will be checking your baggage for sure with those medieval weapons of mass destruction in them.

Mowing duties for a couple old horses. Used the 312H and 42"SD to open trails to the deer stand. Then got the 417A with the 48" SD for the yard work.

I have them on my 3 D's, wouldnt do with out the lectrics!! One of the best add ons you can do. On my D's I pull the flat panel just in front of the seat (4 bolts) and on the left side of the frame there shud be a hole there already, I mount mine there with a filter down line from there. Puts it slightly below the tank and out of the way. And, yeah, plug the hole into the block and discard the pulse pump -- I hate those dang things!!

That is one of the beautiful parts about Wheel Horses, implements and parts are very interchangeable. Save this chart to your files, it shows what will fit without alterations of any kind.

I have several Wheel Horses with electric fuel pumps and love it, quick starts even after they sit unused for a week or more. Be sure to mount the new electric pump lower than the fuel tank and power it from the accessory terminal of your ignition switch so it will be off when the key is off.

Yes, plug the unused line. You don't want anything sucked into your crankcase. I like my filters close to the carb.

Maybe a hiller for pototoes??

Most excellent job !!

I know this is a wheelhorse forum...and i dont own a wheel horse but... I have a vintage Yardman (1977ish) tractor that has massive sentimental value and would really like to get running. The reason im here is it needs an engine. Its an 11hp, L head horizontal briggs model # 253417. I literally cannot find ANYTHING on these engines. It has low compression and gouges in the cylinder wall. I need at minimum a bare block but would prefer a bolt in ready to go engine. What brings me here is i believe i can use the somewhat more common model 252417 block like whats in my 78 MTD 860. This engine was also used in the wheelhorse C111. I think i could actually even use the 252 engine complete with some slight changes. The 253417 seemed to only be used in Cub cadet 1100's and Bolens G11xl's. This yardman i have ive been told is rare as its a model 14910 with an 11hp and Peerless gear drive. Most my style had 16/18hp twins with hydros. Ive browsed the classifieds on this site, craigslist, ebay, all the usual suspects and came up with zero. Does ANYONE know any places i could look? Im getting desperate here lol. Attached are a couple pics of the tractor. Thanks in advance.

Other than tractors, I do have other Interests. Antiques. Mrs. M and I used to sell antiques at a local, but now defunct antique mall. My specialty was Hoosier cabinets and cameras. However, here lately we have been collecting Roseville pottery, washboards and old kitchen items. Something that I didn't know existed until about a year ago was a giveaway that was packed inside of Kellogg's cereal boxes in 1937. These 13" wooden mixing spoons are fairly rare around here, but I have lucked into finding these nice ones over the last year. Washboards, which were a common item in homes in the 19th century, now sell in antique shops for anywhere between $15.00 and $150.00. Some being more rare than others. I recently found this one for $18.00 After a complete disassembly and cleaning, this is the result. One identical to this recently sold on eBay for $108 00. I'm holding on to this one.

Could not help myself. Almond really pops on the rims. Just about ran out of daylight. And moved them inside just after sunset.

Over time I have seen several posts about breaking the bead on tires. To be honest, I never paid a whole lot of attention to them, because when I wanted new tires, I simply took the wheels to the local tire shop, and told them what to put on. I went to the local tire shop today. They quoted me $400 for 2 Carlisle turf tires mounted on my rims. I thought thay was a bit steep. I brought my tires back home. Now I had to break the beads. It aint easy! Driving over the tire with my truck, did no0thing, although, it does hold the tire still while you attack it with a sawzall, oscillating saw, grinder, and cold chisel, but I did get the tires off.One tire had something very sticky, and ugly inside. That was not fun to clean up. Both were quite rusty inside. Last year I bought a cheap little HF sand blaster, but I didn't have compressor enough to run it properly. Now I have access to a VERY large compressor, and it worked much better. My main focus was the bead area, and it cleaned really well. I also did the outside. They are not show quality, but good enough for a plow tractor. If you do a lot of painting, you NEED to get a sand blaster. So much better than a wire wheel, a brush, sand paper. I should have had this thing 10 years ago. When I think of all the money I spent having things blasted, I could have bought my own large compressor.

Even Better !!

It’s 82 today. Good time to defrost the freezer before hunting season and cool the garage at the same time! sixteen minutes later…

From here it looks like almost ANY horizontal shaft motor with the same shaft size and similar HP could be made to work. Or one of a smaller shaft and a bushing to get to the drive pulley, or just a new pulley of same OD that fits the replacement motor

@953 nut I think your post may be offensive… to the baboon community…

This should be the manual for your engine. The list below is what pointed me to the above manual for your model.

I got the blade on my 175A. Complete with adjustable link. With it all the way down, I can just take some of the weight off of the front tires. We'll see how that works out. Now I have to decide if I want to take it off, blast it, and paint it. Again, we'll see. Right now it has Deestone ags on the back. I don't like them at all, but I can trade tires with another tractor and put the Carlisle ags on, or turf tires. When pushing snow, if you have weights and chains, does it really matter what tire you have on. I have one heavy plastic wheel weight, and one that's just hollow. Should I fill the hollow one with concrete? Or what? Thanks Greg

@953 nut I could see how that works, except I feel like whippet doesn’t have enough torque to overcome the bush of hair that the reel will gobble up in the first whack. He also needs a leash to keep him in place.

@JimSraj most important thing is to BREAK THE GRUNGE CYCLE , agree with @8ntruck on the oil soak down , clean out , stand it in the sun , prop up on lift carriage @Ed Kennell also does this . also good time to touch up blades, spindle grease . done this for years , zero rust , all lubricants today are very expensive , used oil is also good for this , it stops rust and feeds the metal . pete @Racinbob also has a good idea. pete

The HF tier changer will do a good job breakin the bead unless it is rusted badly. If that is the case you can open up a gap between the rim and tire and put in some liquid wrench and give it a few days to work. If that won't do the trick then I use the front end loader to break the bead, seems a bit extreme but it is effective.

If the plan is to just use it as a drive around and pull a cart type unit then any vertical shaft engine should be able to work. You may have to drill a hole or two and some of the ignition wiring and engine control cables may need to be changed to accommodate the new engine. Good luck with your project.

Miss you buddy

Like the fire extinguisher hanging on the shop wall - better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it....

After all that work Paul, you're not gonna get any snow!

Nothing like an harmonious balance where the circle of life is complete. In addition to the hogs they also herd sheep into those areas to control the vegetation. No need for machinery.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ONE OF THE GREATEST CONTRIBUTORS TO RED SQUARE. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELPFUL KNOWLEDGE ABOUT TRANSMISSIONS YOU READILY SHARE AND THE WORK YOU HAVE DONE BEHIND THE CURTAIN TO MAKE RED SQUARE WHAT IT IS TODAY. AND FOR THE EFFORT YOU PUT FORWARD AS A MODERATOR THAT SEEMS TO ALWAYS GO UN REWARDED. HAVE A GREAT BIRTHDAY TODAY AND MANY MORE TO COME IN THE FUTURE MY FRIEND!