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I went through our ATV club presidents old Poulan saw recently . He paid me for the parts and my time and threw in this old gem . It's ( at my best guess ) a '75 Homelite EZ . It will be a fun winter project and will be a strictly mechanical resto .

Wow another great one gone. Met jay a bunch of yrs ago at the show. Like it has been said numerous times he talked to you like an old friend. He's definitely in heaven helping other wheel horse fanatics with what ever they need. I know he'll have parking spots available for the rest of us when the time comes. R.I.P. brother.

Here’s my RJ35

Here is mine. Picked it up a few yrs ago. Few and far between up here in Eastern Maine.

I picked this HY-2 kit up on trade last weekend. I’m just in the state of research. The pump control lever is stuck and will need taking apart. I believe short of the modified shifter, it’s complete which is awesome!

Working on a few general maintenance items in preparation for the new PTO bell and clutch when it arrives. My PTO brake pad was all worn down so I cut a piece of of an old brake pad from my wife's Camry and riveted it on. Bill

The P-up was a little too slow for show riding and driving to my tree stand. So I replaced the 6" tranny pulley with a 3". She's 2-3 times faster now.

The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function. Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

This is the crown jewel from our latest buyout : It's dusty, it's dirty, but it's brand new ! Just enjoy the pictures as it sits in its as found condition. I will post follow ups in the future when it gets properly cleaned and detailed !

Something about a 400 series that does it for me .

Painted the deck when I got home from work.

Sticking with my tradition of keeping things as close to original as possible, I'd put in a lead acid 340 CCA regular old battery.

Owner / or dealer had a plastic plug in the hitch hole. I hope you guys can forgive me for posting photos of a dirty tractor, it's all good now.....please give me another chance

I started brainstorming this afternoon with the stuff we cut up Sat. We’ve got to get the fenders and sheet metal trimmed up I’m thinking of a ridged seat post for the steel pan seat. There’s also a early morning junkyard trip rescheduled for Sat so this all might change.

Suburban with 4hp diesel. Used 1 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick steel stock to set engine on and bottom clamping bracket. Had to Redrill one side of frame, it had already been drilled out quit abit. Gas tank got in way of shifter, didn't have much room under hood, so I made a bracket to mount behind seat.

I stole some stuff from Phil’s 753 post too!

@johnnymag3 want to personally thank you helping out @Bill Winn and to have him feel the operational ease of correct lubrication . great follow up , have a greasy day , pete

And going strong after 4 1/2 years!!! Hey @Ed Kennell , the light still worth the effort? Thanks for the thread

It's Monday so work didn't allow for much other than allowing the e-tank to cook undisturbed, but while I was at the office "Rudy" (more to come about that later) got some mail...

This is a great loss of a great guy and a real Wheel Horse fan. I met Jay several years ago and I immediately had respect for him just from the way he looked at you and then spoke . This year at the show I was able to visit with him and we had a very good conversation. I will also miss the posts and the way he approached them on the Red Square Wheel Horse Forum. My condolences to his family and his Red Square buddies.

I picked this mower up the other day along with the Tecumseh hh120. I got this mower running after replacing the fuel lines, cleaning the fuel tank, new fuel filter, new spark plug, fresh gas... crank crank. DUD... The clock spring on the pull start system broke. Take all that apart, put in a new clock spring... wind... wind... wind... put it all back together... crank... FIRE on the first pull. 100_2043.MOV Don

666 Pages is true but as frequently as this train becomes derailed probably only 444 or so are about what we did on Wheel Horses.

I broke mine on 701 bending it Kevin. But I welded it back up and kept the ugly weld bead as a reminder.

If'n ya want a speeding ticket!

Heard this today for the first time in a while. Great driving song…

C est cette courroie la qui a cassée ou puis je l acheter ?

I'm sorta leaning in that direction myself. But, for the price of an oil pan gasket, and the time to remove the engine, I think that I would first remove the balance gears and see if that's the source of the knocking. But... to me it sounds more like a piston slap... Of course, if I did swap the crank I would measure and correct with appropriate bearings. My problem with rebuilding is that so far I've been unable to locate a machine shop that will work on these locally. I am strongly considering crating it up and shipping it down to @richmondred01

This is important to understand even when de-rusting the outsides of parts. The shorter and more direct the "line of sight" between the anode and cathode, the more efficient the process--just make sure the two don't touch. I've put pieces of plastic tubing onto lengths of rebar anodes so they can be right up against a part but not electrically touching it. If the charger tripping out, this means you have too much current flowing through. Could the anode and cathode be touching? Is the amount of washing soda correct (more is NOT better in this situation)? You might also consider reducing the amount of the rusty part's surface area being immersed in the solution at one time. I've frequently hit 8 amps at 15.5 volts with heavily rusted parts having lots of surface area. Also, you may notice that much of the rust coming off the parts ends up suspended in the solution and later falls to the bottom of the tank as a sludge. Keep your parts and anodes out of it for better results.

I'd like to trade you some brake linings for it. How many would it take?

Get a rebuild kit from lowell and go to town on it! It wouldn't surprise me if the neutral return spring was broken inside and jamming things up. They're almost always broken. I have an Hy-2 setup on my 753 and I like it. Mine leaks like a sieve though no matter how many seals I put on it. That just hasn't gotten far enough up my list of things to do though to get it fixed!

Easy enough to do!

Much appreciated Peter.... We all learn things along our journey, I sure have learned a lot in 60 years !! I enjoy passing on knowledge, or anything I can to help out. His Needle bearing and seal will be very happy with the LUCAS treatment. I use a Different grease on the Button. its yellow and made for underwater. Aquaplex is its name. I like to use it there because some guys like to rinse off more than others and I found through the years that the button can suffer the most from water, its not protected with a seal on the outward side of the PTO, water can easily get in there. OIL IT...DONT SPOIL IT !!! John

The robots that the high school robotics team are building are now using brushless outrunner motors that use a programable controller. All kinds of programming options - ramps and limits for both current and voltage, built in position encoders and tachometer. Last year's robot used one of these motors (palm sized) to vertically lift the 200 pound robot about 3 feet in 10 seconds. There was a gearbox between the motor and the winch drum to let the motor work in its effective rpm range. The robot was driven by 4 of these motors - got from a standing start to gee, that's quick in about 2 feet. Use this known technology, scaled properly for garden tractor use. As has been mentioned before, batteries are probably the limiting factor. This system will probably have purpose built and programmed electronics. Repair, maintenance, and possible modifications of a system like this will need different, more specialized knowledge than we are used to on our old Wheel Horses.

You’re on to something, Don. The GE Elek Traks coupled their drive motor directly to the transaxle. There was no clutch. I’m not sure how they handled the start and stop of the electric motor, but i assume it was through a 1970’s technology variable speed drive…or at least some sort of soft start. The E-141’s were a defeatured, less expensive shot at electrification. Using the standard tractor chassis and substituting a motor and set of contactors in was a reliable and inexpensive conversion. I like the concept - a lot - but it was far from an optimized setup. But it brought the servicing of such a unique machine into the reach of a normal owner and dealership. I bought a new push mower a few years ago when my old one was getting too finicky for me to rely on for weekly use. I bought a conventional gas powered unit. Had the electric mowers been at the stage they are now i would have certainly bought one of them instead. The interest level in this stuff is high so there is impetus to evolve the technology. And it’s changing fast. Battery electric power still doesn’t make sense in every case and there are outlier applications on each end of the spectrum where they don’t fit. But the big band in the middle is getting wider almost daily. Steve

It’s been a while since Stormy the 1056 ran! A charger on the battery and some fresh gas and he fired right up! Little Max’ and I tossed a 36” RD on and touched up some deer trails. She was a great help!

Seems from all I've read and heard about Jay he'd be prone to wanting the lot of us to remember him in a happy way. My paternal grandfather was like that. I'd be the same. A favorite poem of my grampa... Miss me but let me go. Great words of wisdom.

Hey nice work there Bill!! Who cares??!!?? The tractor is headed to working better. Likely more in the range of 222.....

If the ignition system is the same in both tractors it would be a direct swap. If they both have points, you're all set. Otherwise you may have to swap ignition switches and change the wiring a little... which is probably not that big of a deal.

The 520h is built like a tank. Over sized front axles and the gear reduction steering makes turning effortless. The Onan is smooth and plenty of torque. I like the instrumentation. Not many garden tractors with rpm meters. If you can operate a volt meter and can turn some wrenches they last a long time. Keep the engine clear of debris and don’t spray machine with water. Blow off after each use with compressed air or leaf blower. They hate water.

@johnnymag3 have not priced spindles , but have definitely rebuilt them , mine were all 6203( 3/4 ) 2RSC3 ZNL BEARINGS , even did my mule drive bearings , same bearings , wide seal removal , wipe out , carb clean flush , lucas xtra heavy duty , also do the pto needle bearing grease , tell me how smooth and quite that is . also have 4 decks , 3, 42in R/D regular use , 36 R/D been sleeping , but oil soaked , clean and ready . think once you open up a spindle , the opportunity for quiet / smooth operation is just the next step . my mule drive bearings used to get very hot , and whine , not any more , every related bearing is 560 deg lucas . anything I reference , I am using / doing , like my stuff solidly reliable , good talking , questions , just ask , pete

I'm thinking maybe you might want to bulk up on your inventory.......🤑

@Pullstart would not hesitate to use super lube on any o ring replacement point , made for dissimilar metals / contact , lets o rings be where they want to be , would also detail function of any / all related linkage points , look like an interesting project , pete

@Bill Winn , used a 3/8 x 24 die nut , and just went over the existing 3/8 x 16 thread to the old trunnion, used penetrating oil lubricant as the prep/ cleaner during overthread , was very easy , then I just eyeballed it in to approximate trunnion setting . pictures related to this show a number of related lever improvements . engine related ( rectifier ) grounding , plug in battery tender spot . note the washers 3/8 to 7/16 added to the sloppy lever start point , first picture/ grease , that same rail is your battery cable ground point , the corner of engine cable to frame last picture , bolts on to that ground rail . as I went along / changing things , kept adjusting / tweaking every change for its " sweet spot " even today , after years of use , I marvel at how easily this set up works , just ask , pete

Translation; Hello I am looking for the model and these characteristics of the cutting belt of my 800 commando on which site then I find it thank you in advance. The chart below shows the belts for all Wheel Horse Mower Decks, you will need to look for the model number of your mower for the belt that is correct' Le tableau ci-dessous montre les courroies pour tous les plateaux de tondeuse Wheel Horse, vous devrez rechercher le numéro de modèle de votre tondeuse pour l'application de la courroie.

But they are! Those notches on either side of the hinge pin are the wire cutters. It's a multi-function tool.

I think toro could of made the rear look a little better but not a big deal it’s not a Pontiac Aztec at least

The RJ-35 frame in 1955 and 1957 was made out of a single piece of channel iron, in the 1956 the frame was pressed steel. It was found after sand blasting the channel iron frame on my 1957 RJ-35 the manufactures name is impregnated in the channel. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

You should turn that engine pulley around so the groove is tighter to the block and it will line up better with the others. That should give ya a little more. The frame F plate looks tight to the trans but make sure there aren't any repairs that space it out or that it's not cracked which is a common occurance Try loosening the engine bolts and slide it back as much as possible then tighten IDK if all of that is enough but something is a miss. The original Techumseh would've had an engine plate under it to raise the crank PTO shaft so the 8 hp Kohler bolted directly to the frame should put it exactly where that one was.