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This makes load #3 of the dealer buyout. Got 26 K90/K91 Kohlers and couple K241 and K301. There is a 1054, 1057 and Commando 8 also on this load. I piled in as much of the nos Kohler stuff I could but still only got half of it. I guess that means gotta go for load #4 now

I have a few pictures to throw in the ring as well. An Avery boiler over engine tractor running the saw mill. View from the cab of the Avery This Avery also has a steam powered generator that runs the lights and a small fan in the cab.

Dan went third on pulling...got his entry fee back and a small trophy anyway...

This Maytag Racer was very interesting.

Which stands for Dodge County Antique Power Club. Suppose to be a relaxer after the Symco show but got rain Sat. Nite and had to pick up in the rain on Sunday but all was good, we were all ready for a bath. Very hot and humid the rest of the show. Enjoy brothers more to come. A pair of just awesome tractors here. The one had a Detroit 2 stroke diesel you could hear it coming.

I got that one too Dan... and to think we have a problem.......

Oh my Lord did we eat.... I sprung for a brisket @Pullstart that was better than Portage ... I'm not sorry... P farmer did it all on Webers and awesome. Friday nite Dan's stuffed polanos...

I like Airborne in this case it was a Commando 8

Yeah, but he can haul his entire collection in his pick up.

I had one of those furnace blowers and of course I hot rodded it. Swapped pulleys around and standing in front of it was like riding a motorcycle at 70 MPH! I was given one of those big garage fans for Father's day one year. I sold my furnace blower to a co-worker and of course he modded it further. He built a frame and wheels so when it started it blew across the shop until it became unplugged. One day the warranty clerk got to close to it and her dress got sucked into the squirrel cage!

And one loonnnggg belt. Engine operator keeps a sharp eye on the saw and all hand & whistle signals.

Previous owners sometimes do things that just make you go Hmmmm.....

A little of both. The pulleys have a slight crown to them that helps keep the belt on. But if not aligned properly they will fall off. You will also notice that some belts run with a twist in them, this is in cases where the implement has to turn the opposite direction that the engine does.

Old age! The amp meter has two opposing springs and an electrical coil that will attract or repel a magnet depending on the current flowing through the coil. Springs get weak, moving parts get rusty; just old age setting in! I know, I resemble that remark!

@stevasaurus was ther, we get why you can't make it to shows Dino but always ther right next to things important.

Yep, being as the full Kohler rebuild kit is almost double what I paid for the whole machine. I think a tune up, some seals if I determine that there are actual leaks, and call it a day.

All Done!

I will only speak to the KT-17 overhaul /fix up. Parts are not easy to come by for KT-17s and not inexpensive. Machine shop work is more, two journals to grind, two jugs to bore 4 valves to grind....I wound up with well over $800 doing my M-18. (Same engine as KT17 Series two except for the ignition). I have 3 KT 17 and love them... but I do not think I could ever see a major overhaul on any of them. I swapped a John Deere spec KT 17 into a C-175 had to change manifolds (Intake and the exhaust set ups) and some tins but no big deal. In your case i think since you will have the engine off pull the tins and heads do a decarbon and look at the cylinders. Valves are not adjustable so if you get carried away lapping them they may be too tight and you have to grind the stem down a tad. Mouting should not be an issue. This might be a good time to do away with the isolation mounts on the C-175 and use the fixed mounting plate from the 417. i have converted all my C-175s to that flat plate system.

@Snoopy11 @TJ Salyers If you guys are working out a sale/transaction (or not) please use our private message system to deal with it. Thanks!

Making room for my horses and parts. Also built a workbench with ramps for them.

One wheel complete! Tomorrow if the sun’s out, I’ll degrease ‘em, rinse ‘em, dry ‘em, and start with the primer!

Going to take the C-121 aka Black Horse, to a ploughing match in a fortnight. Just to exhibit. Not plough. The ground is like concrete. It has not been run for some months, so I pulled it out of it's resting place yesterday to give it a once over. Wouldn't turn fast enough to start as the battery was low. So it was left on charge over night. This morning put some fuel in. Squirted fuel in the carb while operating the starter and it soon burst into life. I then decided to give it a treat. Cleaned the dust off and then gave it a polish. I don't even do that to the cars. I also ordered two new air filters. The C-125 is wearing the Black Horses filter for mowing duties, as it's own has seen a lot of use over the years and was starting to cause starting problems. Two will give me a spare.

The 520H is one tough horse. I've been using my 1988 520H for the last seven winters for plowing and pushing snow into piles over four feet high without skipping a beat; all four wheels are ag tires with wheel weights and the rears are loaded. The Achilles heal for these machines is the valve seat issue on the rear cylinder (which mine suffered from), but with proper cleaning of the cooling fins and adding ventilation holes on the belt guard, the life of the Onan can be extended greatly. Unfortunately, my first 520H came to me as a roller so I installed an M18 Kohler from a yellow machine and have never looked back or doubted the durability of the Eaton 1100 transmission in it. My second 520H (and first running Onan) just arrived last week and will be used for lawn duty as I much prefer the hydro transmission and gear reduction steering setup over any 8-speed for mowing. I can tell you the Onan is a much more thirsty beast of an engine compared to my 315-8 and C165, easily double the fuel consumption, but the exhaust note sure is sweet!

Treasures from the shop clean out! All the battery cables I’ll ever need! I can trim the copper terminals apart and have some extra heavy duty wiring… all 1/0 gauge!

We spent the weekend doing two good strong busy days of getting the acreage ready for the upcoming wedding of Trina's daughter. Our best friend was here to help. A HUGE help. Trina's mom as well. We chipped a LOT of brush using the Mackissic chipper shredder. Several large piles are now gone. The chips were to be used to line pathways which will be used for the wedding guests and also our own usage after the big day. Our friend took it upon herself to accomplish the project and used some of our future firewood to edge the pathways. BBT and her mom worked on the benches for the vows area. She's using the 2" x 8" red oak that'll eventually be the bed of my truck. They set the boards out on the back of the utility trailer and Trina used a belt sander to take the coarseness off them. Then set them in place on 2 to 3 stumps each. Quite time consuming... The area looks fantastic!!

Peerless= apple 🍎 Unidrive= orange 🍊 A Peerless and a Unidrive simply cannot be compared to one another. They are two completely and totally different transmissions that have nothing to do with one another whatsoever except making forward and reverse motion. Comparing your unidrive 4-speed to your unidrive 8-speed also maybe just a tad touchy. It's possible and in fact quite likely that the shift forks in the 8 speed are slightly more "broken in". ... Which would cause the shift lever to need to move further to create the same motion. As for pulling power ... Of the three that you have there the 8-speed is most assuredly the strongest transmission but not for the reason that you think. I'm not familiar with the internals of the Peerless but I am familiar with the fact that it is a lawn mower transmission NOT a Garden Tractor transmission. Can't say for sure if the Peerless transmission is rated to actually tow anything at all but I wouldn't be comfortable moving more than a couple hundred pounds at MOST. The 8-speed Unidrive on the other hand I do have quite a bit of experience with. I've pulled some over 1000 lbs a good many times and I wouldn't hesitate a heartbeat to do it again. The 8-speed unidrive is an 8 pinion open rear differential. Most, (all?) 4 speed Unidrive transmissions are 4 pinion differential. 8 pinion gears are certainly far more stout than 4.

So this winter while trying to plow my driveway clean, I got to experience first hand the biggest shortcoming of the Series 1 Kohler KT-17 motor in my C-175, the dreaded oiling issue. I was at the end of my long and steep driveway, started to back up and next thing I knew there was a loud bang, cloud of smoke, and oil all over the snow. Thankfully the tractor was able to limp back up the driveway on one cylinder, and I figure the damage was already done, I wasn't going to make it much worse. Once I got it inside, and cardboard underneath it to catch as much of the spewing oil as possible I looked around to see just how bad it was, and there it was, a big old hole right by the rear cylinder (which was the uphill one when it grenaded). Because this tractor holds deep nostalgic meaning to me, being my grandparents tractor, and the machine that got me interested in Wheel Horses in the first place, I have been on the hunt ever since for a replacement KT-17, specifically a Series 2, and last I week I found one. (The grenaded Series 1 motor on the C-175) What I found was a 417-8, It has around 1,800 hours according to the meter and it needs some minor work but the engine sounds strong. So now comes the questions before I begin the transplant. How deep should I go on a rebuild before I put this engine on my C-175. It looks like it may leak a little oil, should I replace gaskets, or should I go deeper since it is at 1,800 hours, or should I just do a basic tune up and run it for a while to see how it is before I invest too much into it? What external parts should I swap from my Series 1 on to the Series 2 motor, I know that there is very little difference internally between the Series 1 and 2, but have noticed a few things externally that are changed, some which will have no effect on fitment in the C-175 like the air filter housing, but some things like the exhaust look like could be in the way of the hood potentially. Mounting, does anything need to change or is it as simple as bolting it up in the exact same spot and everything (mounting holes, PTO location, etc) lines up perfectly? Is there anything else I need to be on the lookout for, or any other recommendations you guys have on this project? (Front view of the Series 2 that will be transplanted) Additionally, after I transfer the Series 2 to my C-175 I'll be left with a 417-8 roller, and while it is no show pony, the fact that it is an 8-speed while all I have are hydros, and that it has an electric lift on it I can see it being extremely beneficial to repower this machine to use in compliment to my others. I also like the idea of being able to finally use a 2-stage blower. What motor do you guys think would be good replacement in the 417-8? Something that would hopefully bolt right up, is reliable, more on the fuel efficient side, and would be able to run the 2-Stage blower, but otherwise be more of a towing/light plow machine. (Full View of the 417-8)

Carefully try some heavy leather wrapped around the ball and a pipe wrench.

Installed the Deestone D407 16X6.50-8 63A3 4 Ply AS A/S All Season Tires!

Always the first full weekend in August. Would be great to see you there. Our pictures only scrape the surface.

Need to put this show on my radar for next year…looks like a good one👍

Yep, my 417A has the 1100. What I have found...any 3,4, or 500 series hydro tractor that has a hydraulic lift has the Eaton 1100. If they have manual lift, they have the Eaton 700

What a score! What you want for those 1054 tires

Did some painting today....Regal Red was the color of choice. Couldn't get the hitch off...it's on there good...painting with it on as best as possible.

Thanks everyone! I believe that is the correct gear Bob. I will measure this at home tonight! I would like to keep this tractor going for a long time. - Dave

I contacted the Delmont Apple Festival committee to see how I could show off my tractor....they responded promptly that they enjoy having anyone participate. Now to have this horse done by Sept.1st!

The drum isn't flat. Keeps the belt centered. Ish

The only reason I have a 520H is for the 2 stage snowblower.

You said that wrong Don. The 416-8 DESERVES special treatment. I fixed it for you ... Same for C160s.

Mine pushes a 54" blade without even grunting.

A temporary fix ...maybe... would be to flip the gear over.

Foot throttle made today

Started work on the tool tills . Three are missing from chest so that is what I am making. Making them from a Sapelle board with the ends out of Mahogany to use some short leftovers. They will be dovetailed together. Sapelle board Resawn on bandsaw Final trim to size Squaring ends on shooting board End grain shavings about 1/64” thick Ready for dovetail layout.

Changed the carb and cleaned her up a little. Running perfect now and even dug a little test hole. She's not pretty paint wise but she sure has big attachments. LoL

The seat flips up on to the steering wheel and then sit on the back of it. I made the controls adjustable so they can be pulled back towards the operator to a comfortable position. It's not that bad as far as comfort goes. It doesn't take very long to dig and move on so you're not on there very long anyway. There were some videos from the Big Show parade of it being demonstrated, I'll post a link if I can find one

AHA!!! I have been looking for a cure to my weed problem inside the fenced area for... years... 'cause I hate using weed killer... @SylvanLakeWH... I think you just gave me the answer! Don

I know I'm in the minority on this but I prefer an ammeter. Unless you buy a good volt meter they are notoriously inaccurate. You can be tooling along reading 12 volts and it's actually 15 volts cooking your battery. Or reading 12,5 and it's actually just 12 and not charging at all. An ammeter showing a constant+ charging rate indicates your system is working and you either have a bad battery or a lot of music, lights and gumball machines running. If it shows a constant - charging rate your system is not working or you have too many lights, music or gumball machines running. If you're worried about the ammeter shorting out and burning all the wires up, put a fuse on it.