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Took this pic of a couple of my RJs and had it framed.

Don't let that 520-8 go. You will regret it later and may not find another one for a reasonable price when you are ready for another one. Keep it stored properly until you can get the money together for an ignition module. Maybe you can do odd jobs for people until you save up the money. $150 shouldn't take too long to earn. It will teach you about managing money and also the skills necessary to repair the 520. I did a module in my 520-HC and it's not too difficult if you take your time and use the proper tools. Plenty of help here if you need it, just ask.

Picked this up with a couple two three Kohlers last year. I’m hoping to have it at next year’s Big Show for the feature!

I left it out once on my C-160. Engine sputtered over bumps when the tractor moved quickly side to side. (Traveling over tree roots) Put it in and problem went away.

I bought this 1257 earlier this year. It has three different shades of red so taking my time fixing some minor oil leaks and blending in the red paint. Hope to have done by the spring, if not worries. Will post when done.

The 520-8 is a hard to find Wheel Horse model with only 225 ever built AND A BEAST OF A TRACTOR, the Raider-14 looks very nice ...... i would explain to your folks you that you just need to keep them both. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

Put on the bagger attachment I picked up at the show and cleaned it up a bit.

Just got home from the food truck benefit for the three families involved in the accident. Thanks to all: New Bridgeville Fire Company, all the vendor, and all those that came out on a very warm evening. Met a lot of friends and neighbors including this couple. Thanks for stopping Lynn. @lynnmor

Probably don't need it if you're only mowing golf greens, but for bumpy terrain, spend the bucks for the splash guard.

Soo.. spending $2000 on a new tractor is okay but $150 on new ignition parts is not? I would advise you to stick with what you got and learn to fix it (if you don't already know how to do that). It will build your skill and help you appreciate the tractor more than to just buy something somebody else has fixed and like @Pullstart said still might need a few things to make it 'perfect'

Check with Terry the vinyl guy. @Vinylguy Every thing is available if you know where to look and who to ask. You just need patience and connections.

good thing it’s trash day tomorrow! I’m tired of sweeping, changing my stinky shirts and getting my flip flops dirty!

At once again it is the bi annual @Pullstartclean up to find the missing 10 mm socket or sockets. The building probably lost a least one ton of weight just cleaning of the floor. LOL

Kevin: I got a name for this one - Yosimite Sam...

Thank you everyone! Not only for the birthday wishes but also for all the info, comments, motivation, and laughs you have given me since I joined this forum and joined this bunch of equally garden-tractor-crazy-group of people. Much appreciated!

Same here on a Kohler 16, slightest little bump and it'd stumble and blow a puff of black smoke. I fiddled with the float setting and got a little results, but was still doing it so I dug around in my carb 'spare parts box' and found another decent looking splash guard the had just a slight difference in the 'cut-out' portion and that and the fiddling with float level finally got .... maybe 90% of the stumble out. But, might as well own up and admit it was one of the $15 import carbs But on several occasions I have had to tinker with float level to get mild problems. So I figure that flimsy little funny looking gasket is pretty critical!

The ignition module, that some call a trigger, is simply a hall effect transistor that switches on or off as a magnet passes by it. It works the same way as a points type of ignition but there are no moving parts to wear. Onan uses a trigger ring on the crankshaft that contains two magnets that have opposite poles that cause the module to switch on and off.

I gotta be honest. You’re 36!?!?!? With a shop this spotless… I figured you were old and retired!

Btw, what you means as the „Trigger“? Is it the Ignition system „Blackbox“ or the Pickupcoils themself what you mean? if you mean the Pickups themself, it can maybe built from cheap chinese scooter ignitions they work on dc ignitions. They be mostly available with all needed Parts like pickup, Trigger electronic, Coils and ignitioncables together here for 20-30$ completely. That is a way i would try if originalparts are too expensive or too hard to get. Measure the Pickupcoils in Ohms and compare the values that they be ok and in nearly same range. Get a cheapo dc ignition for a chinese twin cylindre - like honda twin replica and use them instead. It is worth a try. I know it‘s not 100% original, but it can maybe keep the Engine running until you will find an original Trigger for a reasonable price or you have the money to buy it. Sent you a PM with a suggestion..

Yesterday I replaced my 2017 Honda Ridgeline with a 2022 Honda Ridgeline. Same thing, only 5 years newer and with 106k fewer miles. When I bought the black one in 2017 it was the replacement for my 1997 F250 that I'd bought new 20 years prior (mentioned HERE ). I expected to keep this one longer than I did, but I was ready for something new and I felt the deal worked out to be pretty fair so it was worth the expense of the upgrade. The 2017 had held its value extremely well, but of course they aren't giving new cars away. I was very optimistic when I traded my old body-on-frame full size for one of these but was a little skeptical it would handle my needs to my satisfaction. To my delight, this first Ridgeline hit a home run for me and I hope this one comes close. In the 5 years this generation has been out there have only been minor upgrades. The front clip is a little boxier and they added a second exhaust tip to the rear. The tires are the same tread as before, but they've added little sidewall tread blocks to make them look more aggressive. These are concessions to those that are more interested in style than I am (those of you who have seen me can attest to this...). I will admit that I was never crazy about the looks of my 2017, but I couldn't see the outside when I was in it so didn't really care. The only significant change was that the in-house Honda transmission has been replaced with a ZF unit with three more gears. The prior 6-speeds have some sporadic heat management issues that have apparently been addressed. Mine was always rock solid. One of the things Honda has usually done was made their vehicles very easy to maintain. They still put drain and fill plugs on everything so changing the fluid is easy. Very easy for a DIY'er This transmission apparently requires the thing to be a specific temperature to get the fluid level right, but they are apparently still generally easy to service. We'll see. The things that are surprising to me are how well the 2017 held up. I take care of my things and I'm not hard on them so I didn't expect much degradation. But in over 100k miles I still didn't have a single squeak or rattle and all the controls still operated with precision and solidity. The only real issues that belied its age were the cracked windshield and some minor parking lot scratches and dings. When I drove the new one with only 7 miles I was surprised how close it felt to the old one. Honda doesn't have the quality reputation they once had, but they still screw things together really, really well. I used to be a die hard Ford guy, but too many piddly things with my last several Fords have strained our relationship. These things carry a bit of a reputation in some circles as being a NART (Not A Real Truck) because they lack a ladder frame, don't have bug chunky tires and lots of ground clearance, and have the engine sitting in there sideways. But with 1500 lbs of payload and plenty of power they can hold their own for applications like mine. And the fuel economy is decent for a 4500-lb brick. My 2017 - and hopefully my new one - excelled at pulling my boat, getting lumber, and carrying trash. The composite bed didn't show any wear from gravel or junk and doesn't need a spray-on or drop-in bedliner to thwart off damage. The trunk under the bed is the best feature ever incorporated into a pickup truck, and the AWD has proven for me to be way superior to any part-time 4wd system I've ever had in other vehicles. It's no F350, but I don't need one of those monsters. Anyway, this is my new horse hauler. Steve

I spent some time on my 42" SD deck trying to mount it to Clyde the C-195. Learned some in the process, too. I tried swapping the lift bar from the 48" deck that came with Clyde. From this, I learned that the connection to the gage wheel rod is in different places on the 42" and 48" decks. I did more measuring and discovered that if I placed the lift pin on the C-195 in the round hole behind the lift pin slot in the 42" lift bar, the deck will latch up in the C-195 mid hitch. However, the deck binds up when the hydraulic lift tries to lift it - that hole needs to be a slot. The answer seems to be to make a slot in the 42" lift bar to match the slot in the 48" lift bar. Got to figure out to do this without access to a mill. Drill and cut off wheel, I guess. Think I'll make a separate thread on this subject. Greased up the spindles and sharpened the blades while I was working on the deck, too.

What a great day! The turnout for this food truck fundraiser was beyond belief. With good folks like @Ed Kennell packing food out, the sales was incredible.

$2,000 for a machine missing a crucial part (and who knows what else?) vs. $150 to fix a perfectly respectable machine you’re in possession of and are already familiar with? Dude!

I think they are old Reo mowers sold under the Wheel Horse name.

If it pushed out, Clean it all up with brake cleaner. Scuff the area the seal seats on the block with sandpaper blow dry the area and apply Permatex bearing and sleeve retainer around the outside of the seal. Install and let it sit a day.

First comment... now the 416-8 won't stop following me around... it goes everywhere I do. I realize that I am attached to it... but... gosh... now it is attached to me... Second comment... now the 416-8 wants special treatment, air conditioning in the garage...??? The L-157 and the 800S are jealous... Don

@sjoemie himself , was going to tell you to enjoy your self today , but with a shop like that , you already have that covered , happy birthday , pete

Momma’s got some brand new shoes!

Horse Hockey. I know of several old tillers from the 60's that lasted over 50 years. My Grandfather bought a Wizard tiller in 62 and had 2 gardens and it was used constantly. My brother got it when my Grandfather died in 88 and used it until 2010 until the handles finally gave out. Engine was original and so were the tines. And in good shape too. Still see the old front tine tillers sitting in gardens on occasion.

It’s not clutter! It’s valuable merchandise not categorized.😂 I’m in the same situation.👍

Thanks everyone for the Birthday wishes. I had a great birthday! Also did some work on my Horses. Live has been pretty busy so haven't been much on here lately

What about a tension spring in opposite directions on adjustable eyebolts? That way it’s pulling against itself all the time towards center..

So the headlights on my truck were a little cloudy. Thought I would try to remove the haze. I used a cleaner made by RainX. Worked real well. Wipe it on and buff it off. The Cat Eyes are crystal clear again.

well to be fair I didn’t count. But only one race car.

You can see the spacers in this pic... any small pipe cut to size will do...

Hate is not the case here, just have all Koehler engines. The Magnum on my 310-8 has a Walbro carburetor had a problem of running rich while ascending steep grades when I bought it. Took it apart to clean it and check the float setting, it had no splash guard and I added one while assembling the carb. No more problem! The kits I buy are about $ 5.00 on (2 for $ 10) and include the splash guard.

Hmm... thought just came to me... Since you have... ehem... (throat clearing)... so many of them thar' en-gines... Why not... run 2 of those K series under the hood of that mochine... put a double pulley on the engines... run a primary short belt from one engine to the other with a tensioner, then a secondary belt from the closest engine to transmission... Don

One of these…

Happy birthday from the funny farm in Indiana! Don

I've heard dog poo hurts more than it helps.

Huh. I have a magnum 12 that sputters quite a bit when it gets bumpy. I always thought maybe a float height issue. I’ll have to see if there’s one of these in it!

I've had some carbs that I have not put that back in and been perfectly fine. I did have one where I ran into an issue and I can't remember which. I think it was on a Kohler 16? I'll be waiting to see the views and technical information other folks come up with. I'm wondering if maybe you were on smooth terrain most of the time you would probably be perfectly fine. I feel like that's why I had a problem on my own engine.

@TonyToro - sorry for confusion.. 🤪 @TJ Salyers Maybe that helps or maybe ya kew it allready an tested it that Way https://woodmizer.com/us/portals/0/docs/612942f6-a481-43b2-9675-f85f0c63b17d.pdf

As long as you have the space to store them, I would try to keep em both. To choose one of them was a real hard decision in my opinion. - maybe it depends few day‘s left to save the money for the ignition trigger, but i like the Sound of the V Engines. it depends also on what you to want to do with them. The missing PTO can be maybe ignored if it should work as Plow machine or as a puller. Hard to choose...

Ditto! But better safe than sorry. Now and then saves a lot of ear ache.

@squonk probably because the walk behinds are junk and the WH ones actually got used?

Found a couple tire chains today… Probably more around too!