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Did my best to make these cast iron weights wheelhorse approved. Who said you couldn't turn a Ford into a wheelhorse? Thanks to vinyl guy!

Wear all the safety equipment; glasses gloves shoes long pants long sleeve shirt Or, follow @Pullstarts lead and keep a first aid kit handy.

@The Freightliner Guy Pullstart would advise you to have a large first aid kit , very greasy short pants , and flip flops . A hammer to hit at least 2 fingers , 3/8 drill bit to drill a hole in your body at least once and his daughter to actually do the work..

I changed the fluids and rubbed Project Hitch down with WD-40

My 701 I had at the show in June.

I’m here at the Portage, WI show watching it rain… but during last night’s parade ride I spotted a Briggs ZZ engine in the swap meet. I bailed out of line and scored a deal! It has no compression, but I have hopes it just has a stuck valve. I’ll filler’up with oil when we get home, and let it sit a while. That, or maybe even pull the head for inspections. Happy to have an original Lever Steer engine though!

C-120 lookin at ya !!!!!!

The other lazy 418-A takin in some shade

As stated, if the bearing is bad, the seal is the victim, not the problem. At least with the leak, the hub to axle joint got juiced up - makes foe easier hub removal. One setscrew over the key, or two?? If only one, I add a second one at 90 degrees to lock the hub - drill & tap 3/8-16 UNC and use the 5/16" tap drill to "dimple" the shaft for the second one - gives it a place to bite and not raise a burr to allow for removal in the future... Bill

So the "stack" you can see in this photo is actually a air snorkel I built. This tractor runs a down and under type exhaust. I'll try and get some photos of that.

Few Wheel Horse's took a ride up to AW for supper

A little info on straps, a few years back a group of guys going to a tractor show drove the Pennsylvania Turnpike towing an "open deck" trailer filled with their tractors. Well it turns out the Pennsylvania State Police did not like them using just straps to secure their tractors and made them unhook their trailer on the turnpike and go get chains to secure the tractors! My trailer is a 2004 16 foot bed landscaper's model with a few additions. i found an old boat trailer front post and mounted a winch on it , some pick truck side steps and a mounted swivel crane. I have eyelets mounted on all 4 corners and 6 "D" rings on the bed (mounted to the frame underneath the wood) for hooking chains and straps. Lights are also at each corner so the bed can be lighted. A 500 lbs tractor coming off the trailer and going down the road makes for 1 really bad day. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

Loaded!

We’ll after many hours & sourcing many replacement parts . The horse is back running off the OEM umbilical cord as it’s supposed to .I had to solder extensions to all the cut harness wires & reconnect them with solder & heat sink tubing . I reconnected the front & rear lights which were also cut & non-functional. Put in a new control panel with the correct new PTO switch & new key switch. Sanded , primed & painted it with 4 coats . Went with a new round dial hour meter , since the existing rectangular one was broken 😡 I sourced a heavy rubber hole plug for the hole someone sloppily drilled next to the throttle . I even went through the trouble of drilling a hole in the seat mount bracket & installed the reverse key switch & seat safety switch which was missing of course . Replaced the solenoid with a OEM toro one . What a hack job the prior owner did . I learned a valuable lesson from all this , check & recheck everything well when buying used , not all sellers are honest !

I see no oil anywhere, squirt some everywhere there is moving parts. It ain't like a Mopar where it should be junked at the first sign of trouble.

Hard workin 418-A

@kpinnc never had an issue with the satin black gas grille paint on my mufflers , no peeling or paint breaks , maybe a touch up but no peeling , pete

A little Friday tree trimming.

Looks like it was slipping for a while. That's basically brake dust from what I can see. If the clutch still engages (audible click when powered on), it may have enough adjustment to get you through the mowing season. Most electric clutches can be tightened or loosened as needed. Just remember that a tiny adjustment goes a long way. Check your manual and see if it has a procedure. Otherwise you may have to dig around online to find a procedure. Most clutches have 3 adjustment bolts on the outside of the bell. I don't see that on yours, so I'm not sure how to adjust that type. One thing to keep in mind- those Command engines can't take the axial load of a manual PTO, which is why they used electric clutches. You have to add a bearing and plate to them to use a manual clutch.

I replaced those screws with Allen head screws, because it's much easier to get an Allen wrench in there as compared to a screw driver. The ears on those two tabs can be bent to hold the cam in place. The tension on your model is adjusted with the spring on the pivot arm. Early models didn't have than spring, and relied on the tabs for tension.

It looks like your nylon slide is not seated in the groove. You should be able to remove it w/o much disassembly.

Nice!! I’m glad I had an extra in my trailer for you!!

You need to use the tappets from the ACR cam as well. Different lengths. Also you may need a different cam shim for the endplay.

to the I don't have a C-125, but my 312 and 417 are 36" wide. Your C-125 should be the same. A mower deck or wheel weights could be wider.

Thank you for those who the took the time to respond. I tried at first to compress the rivet with plyers. It didn't help. I ended up putting the throttle side in the vise and it worked well.

Now that the wheels are cleaned up, I gotta put another set of tires in it.

Replaced the stirrups on the 1257HEAVY for a set of running boards. Like having a few more places to set my feet.

Probably will, I think I'm just gonna get it good mechanically. FYI you were on that thread about the fuel valve, I put one and I think it'll work fine!

Thanks johnnymag3. Here are two photos of the C160 in my neighbor's shed and one after my rehab in 2011. As a note of curiosity, in 2014 when I had a fellow advise me on rebuilding the K341 I told him about my neighbor wanting to landfill the C160 he said anyone who would throw away a Wheel Horse is an idiot! I have mentioned that to my neighbor many times for a good laugh. The other day my neighbor asked me how much money I had in it now and I jokingly said abut $6,000 and worth every penny.

Whoa, good thing my glasses were on! LoL

On that trailer load of tractors a got about a month ago now was this Electro 12 that I decided to keep. I wish I could say it's all original, but it's not, someone painted it at one time and did a fairly good job. Believe it or not the story is that he bought off the local scrap yard, it was sitting up on top of the pile! He brought it home and got it running and parked it where it sat until I got it. Anyway, when they picked it up with the claw to sit it on the pile, they broke the dash and dinged the hood pretty good in spots. All fixable stuff. I got it running and drove it around and tested the hydro and everything seemed to be in good working order. I currently have the dash off and am going to put another one one. I'm going to take all the wiring apart and clean the connections too while I have it apart. Once I get all that done and back together I don't really know what I'm going to do with it. It was converted from electric clutch to standard clutch, and that a good thing mechanically, but kinda defeats the electro name. I thought about spending the money to put one back on as the wiring is still there. Still don't know if I'll restore it or let it alone and use it. The deck was pretty well shot, but I'm going to see what a good local welder thinks, maybe I can salvage it. What do you guys think I should do with it?

Now, for the record... The BBT made this video specifically for me. Bear. Eric. EB. It's ..... Possible..... A little... That I've been known to have some degree of difficulty remembering exactly how I like to hold our tractors to the trailer. We do this only twice most years and my memory is... Challenging. So my wonderful thoughtful little Other Half made me a video recording of the procedure. Figured some o you folks would be slightly amused.

I'd like to thank the gentleman that responded to my earlier question. It was indeed, one loose hub... Removed the wheel weights, tires and hubs. Checked the play in the axle (almost a 1/8") as advised - Popped out old seals and replaced them with a pair of 6449 seals and I'm back in business.

See you guys in the morning

For future reference, vise grips work well for this. You can start with a light bit of pressure, test the throttle, increase pressure if necessary and continue from there. I can't say for sure on the 520, but I've always been able to tighten mine on the tractor, without removing the cable.

Ahahaha I’m in Draper Utah I don’t know where pull start lives but yeah definitely will use my waffle head hammer to smash my fingers with but hopefully i don’t die and break any windows ahaha

It is normal for the axles to have up to 1/8" axial in and out movement. As @oldlineman stated above, any radial movement indicates a worn bearing and it should be replaced before installing a new seal. The seals can be replaced easily from the outside, but the case must be split to replace a bearing.

Part # 101757. You can probably rig something up with some washers if need be.

Nice C-105!!! Love the Black Hoods!!!

No pics? Really??

It's not seated because I loosened the small screws, but didn't want to go any further until I was sure I could replace the slide without taking everything apart.

Great looking tractor - I think this is the first picture I've seen of this one. That hood emblem is "da bomb" I'm curious about the stack - did you make that yourself? If so, where did the parts come from and do you have any tips on making something like that?

Exhaust tappet for ACR cam is 2.02" Spark advance 1.964" Cam end play .005"-.010"

These motion control friction parts can be a real 'B' to get apart. In the past, I've been able to completely grind off the tab (1) on the friction rod (5) to where it is round so that the rod (5) can be 'pryed' back thru the side panel hole. Remove the belt guard and wiggle ...PRY...the ENTIRE verticle motion control lever and 'boxed-in' friction parts up & out of the hoodstand tunnel. Doing this may (likely) spread the hoodstand tunnel slightly too wide but that can be overcome. At least, you can get the friction parts on the workbench to tear apart. Getting the friction collar (10) free of the friction rod (5) is the tuff part.

She is not alone. Much bigger addiction than Wheelhorses . Dozens of them.

I've used shafts from The Big Bearing Store. https://thebigbearingstore.com/shafting/

Haven't spent a lot of time lately. 14HP in and running. New loom for the wiring, new steering link. Retorque the head and timing to check then the hood and grill go back on.