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She’s off the truck cleaned up, fresh gas, oil good she runs like a top.

How not to park a MinI. He was supposed to turn right but was going a little to fast. Very wet forest road. Driver and navigator both OK. A few more photo's of the rally. Nearly off. He luckily just dropped the front wheels over the drop edge. We were able to man handle him out. Another mini went right over. Had to be winched out. No damage and continued on his way. Near thing. My mate Bob with the latest anti midge head wear.

So scored at the antique store today! Wouldn't post this in this thread normally but a couple days ago I got a front receiver hitch for the c-100, today I score a 3-ball hitch for $10 AND it's red! Seemed meant to be! It's also solid 2x2" steel and not hollow. I bet the thing weighs at least 30lbs. Should also add as a nice front counter-balance weight as well.

Now Mike, you need to let Pete make that comment!

The pins get worn. The tabs break at the weld. The bolt breaks. Happens all the time. These are 50+ year old tractors. We got guys doing wheelies, mud running,hill climbing ect. with these things. I 've replaced a dozen pins. If you have the time and ability to over engineer it great but a new pin will get you up and running. I'm sure this wasn't a close tolerance fit from the factory. You need room in there for some Lucas!

Been messing with the wheels on my 1054, they were painted by someone in the past pure white and have a bit of red overspray. Only the Workhorse series look good with white wheels, all others look terrible (my opinion). Wanted to get them closer to original but there is no rattle can paint on the shelf called “linen beige”. Started out with gloss almond and it was just to yellow and dark for me: Back to the hardware store and came back with Navaho White. This one I really like! This pic is Navajo White next to a pure white wheel off a Craftsman for color comparison.

Great topic. Thank you, gentlemen, for some thoughtful replies. Some years ago my Dad and and my stepmother decided to move to an apartment in an independent living community. Surprising to me were the two incredibly well-equipped shops supported by the management company. One for metal and one for wood. Joining cost $1 a month and an extra $10 per year got you a small locker for personal stuff. Top of the line stationary tools (I'd never seen a 12" wide x 48" long belt sander before), an array of the best hand and small power tools, as well. Among the members were some amazingly skilled furniture builders, carpenters, mechanics, and metal workers. I had to be tested if I wanted to use any power tools with my Dad present (whew! I passed). My Dad spent a big chunk of every day there fixing things for neighbors and working on smaller projects until his illnesses finally confined him to his apartment and ended his life. When we cleaned out his locker the only thing in it was his work apron with two pencils in the chest pocket which grandson has now.

I’ve made progress on Project Hitch. I’ve worked on it off and on for the past few days. It was literally a wreck. Today I pulled the steering wheel & shaft successfully. I also removed the wheel from the shaft without any damage to shaft. I will pat myself on the back considering I’m working with Stone Age tools guys and gals. New wheel is on shaft with a good coat of anti-seize and imposition with a punch in place just need to get a new roll pin and dash housing. Get the hubs on and it’s a roller with lots of potential. Bang, bang, bang, pew, pew, pew, firecracker, firecracker, firecracker, boom, boom, boom enjoy your weekend!

Well I have the belt guard in place. When the early rain drys off I will give it a test run.

Oh crap! I hit both of those right on the head

If that tab is not holding the pin in place it will swivel with the axle (larger surface area contact) and wear the pin and the frame holes at the thin surface area contact points front and back. Look at those frame holes for the pin to check if they are wobbled out. If so they can be bushed too. All of the axle holes (pivot and spindles plus the frame holes) can be enlarged from 3/4 to 7/8 and bushed with bronze bushings to make them a nice tighter tolerance again. I don't have access to the precise machinery like 702bill has so I have done them by hand with a 7/8 construction reamer. and a cordless drill. The reamer will not pass all the way through the holes on the axle from a single side. (unless you grind the stop ring off and use an extension) So from experience I found it's best to start one side only drilling the wide part of the reamer into the hole about 1 1/2" or so and don't bury it from the first side of drilling, then drill from the other side until it sinks all the way through. This will better line up the holes. The reamer will ALMOST self align but it's important to align the drill with the hole as straight as possible as you drill. Look inside of that spindle hole and you will see that there's a larger gap in the center than at the ends for holding grease. If you use long bushings be sure to consider the grease fitting. Shorter bushings for each end are easier to find and still leave that grease gap to mimic the original design. After tapping in the bushings, you may need to file or sand the insides of the bushings because of the "squeeze" into those axle holes makes that 3/4 ID a little smaller. You want those bushings tight in the axle so they don't spin, just the pins spin in the bushings. If you have a bunch of axles to do then it's a big time saver to modify the reamer with an extension for drilling them with one pass from a single side.

I have a build thread on this 3 point build. Here is the finished 3 point.

Trina's 867 go-to worker was moving sticks and logs for us today.

Not convinced! I'll bring 6 sets of wheels to ZAGS for you to clean and paint so you can proove it's the right color! I like your professional looking work too!

I think the only "yellow" metal in the manual transmissions is the 2 bushings in each end of the cluster gear. They are not copper...not sure if they are brass or bronze. In all of the transmissions that I have been in, I have not had to replace those bushings. I've been using the 90wt in the gallon jug from Tractor Supply with no issues for about 11 years now. I do like to add a little Lucas Oil Treatment to these transmissions. I think it quiets them down a little.

@ebinmaine All ground engaging equipment. It allows more control for keeping level at various heights. Here are the attachments I have had on it so far I also had a plow on but no pictures.

Have we ever had a worst worn operating drivebelt contest? If not, I submit this one for the initial entry: This is what was on Clyde the C195. Put a new, pretty blue one on. Wonder of wonders, the clutch between the engine and hydro works as it should now. Clyde did a little bit of trailer work trying out his new belt. I put the dozer blade on Morgan the 14-8 and spread the mound of leaves left over from last fall around. Give them a chance to dry out, then get raked into the chipper shredder. When done with the blade, I installed the RD deck for the rest of the mowing season.

Formariz, I am with you and all the others on the sentimentality issue. I have lived here for fifty years. When we bought the house that is all there was. I started by building a shed/work space. I remodeled and added onto the house, built a 24 X 24 wood working shop which is heated and air conditioned. I also built a 28 x 60 garage / workshop. It was a labor of love and work space. So I am strongly attached to all this. Now at 85 I am faced with some looming serious health issues. Currently, I am doing just fine but I know the time will come when that is no longer the case. I still work / play in my shops. I frequently sit there and just enjoy being there. I am trying to decide when to do do what I know I will have to do one day. I have a lot of emotion tied up here. Our children grew up here and now the love of my life is in a nursing home never to return. Please don't think I am complaining, I am not. God has been good to us all these years. Marv

with tractors. On I like seeing all the parts are there and mostly original. Off When someone spray paints the rims and gets it on the tires. Extreme turn off!

On - Original that RUNS, with all its parts On - Full nut and bolt restore with shiny paint. Off - Rattle can paint job on tires, over rust, over dash, over decals...you get the picture Off - Left to rust away in a field and not for sale

Many places, Local hardware stores too. Just search 3/4 ID x 7/8 OD bronze bushings. You don't want flanged bushings just sleeve bushings. Longer bushings or many different lengths and sizes can be found here at ASB bearing. 2 1/2" is the longest for 3/4x7/8. Different size reamers and you can bush everything that moves and be a bushwacker! LoL https://asbbearings.com/pages/cast-bronze-inch-sleeves Wish I had some of the machinery but more importantly the know how and skill to do more precise stuff like Bill and the many other machinest on here! Their trade means precise and accurate tooling with the abilities and skills to know how to use them. But again, these little tractors aren't the space shuttle and only moving at 5-10 mph leaves some wiggle room for some less exact fixes. Is it better to be precise? ABSOLUTELY! Can we get away with some of the backyard fixes? ABSOLUTELY

Will it quiet down noisy grandkids too ??

I don't think you will find GL-4 oil anywhere unless it's an old bottle. I use GL-5 and don't worry about it.

That axle is repairable - I have opened up both the pivot and spindles bore for press in bronze bushings. I also machine the lower bosses down to add in a thrust washer, and at the same time compensate for thrust face wear. I've done several with no issues. Lowell at Wheelhorse Parts and more sells the repdoduction axle pivot pins.

Nice! Those 78-79 C-Series are my favorite!

So true... why would someone take the time to 'improve' the looks and then not mask off the tire? OFF- painting over rust with absolutely ZERO prep work.

Well made good progress this weekend. I power washed it. Looks a lot better. Got the broken hub off and inspected the other. It’s keyway was turned on the shaft 90 degrees. So it came off. Got the dash tire apart and the steering wheel out. I managed to save the shaft with my basic tools. It’s ready for a set of hubs and dash cowl. Then it will be off to mechanics. Rear end looks good feels good so I’m hoping I get lucky there. I’m confident it will run. Thanks everyone for all your help and insight. Pro-tip if you don’t have a press like me just grind the damn thing off. Get close and hit it with heat, popped right off. Cheers!

Old farm tractors could be had that ran on propane. The had unique heads that made for higher compression. These heads are now very popular with pullers as when you run gasoline you get much more power than with the standard gasoline head..

My Power King has an old school Borg Warner T-92 transmission with noisy bearings as it was full of water when I got it about 15 years ago. Takes a 1/2 pint of lube. I have a combination of gear oil/ STP and Lucas oil treatment in it. Wanted to see how long it would last. It's still going

Look at dual-fuel generators. They all are rated at slightly higher KW when running on gas vs. propane. They're also likely a good example of what parts you'd need.

@ri702bill realize gear oils , are getting difficult to get specific about , with fading availability, you might use a lucas " climbing gear oil " as part of your refill , to enhance the overall lubrication , agree with @wallfishon the marine application , why not ? you are crawling around on your lawn at slow speed , think the most vital thing is to regularly check that dip stick , and change it regularly . after mowing , I refill fuel add STA- BUL , to gas , check my dip stick, while i,m right there , give everything a once over , keep that oil fresh , is your best bet , pete

Tractor Supply?

My shop is 26x26 which consist of an 20x26 enclosed shop and an 8x26 covered outside work area. A 90 amp 220v feed handles the window AC/Heater (it’s insulated) as well as welder, tables saw, 3hp air compressor. The boathouse lights and 2 1-hp boat lifts and the irrigation pump from the lake also run off the shop. My ceiling is white and the walls are sure close to a lighter Linen Beige. I painted the OSB shearing with one coat of oil base KILZ, gave it a light sand with a pole mounted pad sander using the mesh sanding cloth used on sheet rock. This worked good to knock some of the OSB fuzzies off. I also used Oil Base Enamel for the top coat. In 1978 we painted my dads electronics business shop that same way. Since 1990 that shop has been rented out. When it changes tenants we give the walls a wipe down with purple power/bleach and touch up paint the scuffs. It still looks good 40 years later.

A 5/16” bolt should hold that tab to the frame.

Not a thing... Keep both/all. Different work, different machines.

Finished putting the nicely drained, flushed, repainted and refilled trans back on the 416-8, painted the fender pan (think I need a new rear decal)... Wheels and tank back on then outside for a pressure wash. Went ahead and washed the rest of the herd while I was at it. Got part of the yard mowed with the GT, the rest hasn't grown much since it's been so dry. Going to take the 312-A with dump trailer to pick up a bunch of brush I've been trimming. 416-8 still to get some more painting done then I think I'm going to sell it. Still trying to decide if I want to repaint the GT back to its original color scheme. Right now it's like 3 different shades of red. I dunno... this 416-8 is pretty sweet. Maybe I should sell the GT. But I like the hydraulic lift, especially if I put the snow blade on the GT. Decisions, decisions. Hope everyone has a great 4th of July!

Almost there. Drives great. Pump has plenty of poop. I feel fortunate to have caught the transaxle melt down before it was too late. Jack rabbit starts sees it rip up the lawn and lift the front wheels off the ground. much to my surprise. Not something I usually do, but I though I would push it a bit after the rebuild. I drained and washed everything out I could to ensure as many particles of crap got out of the system. I know there would still be some juice in the pump, hydro lines and ram. I will use it for 5 hours or so then dump the oil again and install another filter. Every year without fail the transaxle will be drained. The new rocker shaft works a treat. Picks up the tiller without a fuss. This machine will only be used for tilling. She will be a working girl for sure. I know some dont like hydro for tilling, other say its fine if you are quick on the stick. For me my left shoulder is bad and constantly lifting up the tiller on the 8 speed aggravated the joint badly. Even with a new assist spring, its a big lift for a bad shoulder. So I will sharpen my Kung Fu and get good at tilling with hydro. Tomorrow I will adjust the motion control system and get that buttoned up. Then onto some spotty bearings in the pto that I will just clean up and lube till my new bearings come in. I will also get the tensioner and belt on for the tiller.

Adjust the pedal linkage. Thanks for the edit to add at least some detail. Typically best if you can at least provide some minimal info on the tractor or you may just get some vague guesses instead of real answers. They are NOT all the same. Plus any background info helps too, otherwise we need to pull teeth with a bunch of questions like, Is the brake engaging before the belt clutches? What is the issue with the pedal? Is anything broken? Is the pedal position too far forward? Is this a new to you tractor or something you already have and working on? Was there any modifications done or parts changed? Etc Etc Etc Please help us to understand the issue or concern so we can help you!

The Navajo White is what we use on all our tractor's wheels.... And a couple engines. We've had a 1967 wheel off and the inside where the sun doesn't hit is a near perfect match. The Local Paint Department/BBT absolutely agrees with your findings.

Okay youngster...will see how you feel about hand shoveling in a few years

On - original patina. Creative use of original WH parts repurposed to become something else (like the 2 wheel motorcycle). Off - backyard shortcut hacked up "fixes" done by well meaning morons...

Pete You are right.Maint.Is key to keeping these machines going with out too much trouble. I also found a broken off Grease Zerk,can’t have that! She’s screaming for some Lucas extra sticky HD right about now.Replaced and ready for some lube !

On a small engine what do you suppose the HP gain would be? 3 or 4 ? Would the propane be less problematic in the long run then gasoline? No stale gas, less mess, no water in the fuel?

@Wheelhorse#1 , that axel pin set up n needs a bolt for holding it in place , as stated , use a grease that will stay with it , since using the lucas h/d chassis grease , in hi wear areas , the issues stopped . also when you grease the front end , raise it up so grease easily fills all the voids , when building a front axel set up , you can feel the solid smooth ease , that this grease has , most important is that it stays there , went after every trouble / failure area , with this , no noisy bearings , no failures , read the specs . just my experience , keep it greasy , pete

Now that this thread has been revived, I'll add my 2-cents worth. Back around 1995, I purchased a Honda HR-215 SXA. 3 speed, rear wheel drive, automatic blade brake. This has been the best lawn mower I've ever owned. From time of purchase until now, it starts on the first or second pull. Only minor services along the way. Replaced carburetor two years ago because someone left gas in the tank over the winter (me) and come spring, it suffered from non-ethanolitis. Cheaper to replace the carb than to try to clean it. This past spring, the transmission finally gave up. So I was happy to find a guy on eBay who rebuilt them, and I got a freshly rebuilt transmission for $140.00. That's a lot less than the cost of a new mower which wouldn't be near as well built as this one. So with an initial purchase price of $765.00 + $25 for new carb + $140.00 for transmission, comes to about $35.00 per year for a great lawn mower. My son has gone thru at least 3 mowers in 15 years.

Yessir. Likely go to Facet electric there.

Good post Richard.

I've got a little 10" B&D battery powered chain saw. Perfect for light trimming or minor storm damage clean up. Pull the trigger and it runs. No as or wondering how many times you will have to pull the rope to get it going. I've even cut up a 14" diameter log with it. Took 3 battery packs, but it did it, though a gas saw is really the proper tool for this job.

Some of you might remember that I posted my B80-8 with hydraulic lift add on for sale due to a stuffed dog that got amputated when it abruptly fell off when running.... it wasn't a pretty sight. The misses insisted I put it up for sale and I did just at a price I figured wouldn't sell.. so after it sit for a month hidden. I took this belt guard from a MF deck and did some trimming. And here i black is the final piece that i have after trimming. Tomorrow i will show a picture or two with it mounted

At 80 years of age, we have been faced with a decision as to whether to move to a much smaller house in a 'continuing care facility'. I've told my wife that I would take one or two of my tractors with me, but I would still lose my 36' x 36' pole barn workshop. I've always been a hands-on person, and have remodeled or renovated five homes (and 30 Wheel Horses). The workshop is part of what makes me 'ME'. Giving up my workshop would be like giving up my right arm, or part of my soul. I'd be completely bored and lost. The day may come when we have to give up, but I'm fighting it 'tooth and nail'. Jim