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To all the men in the world who have learned how to make kids, good job! To all the men who have been there for their kids to show ‘em what to do and what not to do, great job! Happy Father’s Day! I got me some breakfast in bed, homemade cards, and I’m fixing to go see Top Gun!

Selected Fillet and Fish cleaning knives. Except for the top one, Chef knives and tools. Hunting, Trout & Bird, Skinning & Boning knives Assorted Pocket knives & Collectables My Honest Abe Lincoln knife And of course, this guy

Had a dosage of cowboy 🤠 ☕ in a mug. Set it on a Horse "desk"... A few times.

My neighbor and I finished up the frame-up restoration of a 1987 310-8 we rescued from a boneyard. Then we repainted the hoods and replaced the decals on our 1987 and 1991 312-8's with custom sets from our vendor VinylGuy.

I have one that learned about WH tractors at a very young age and also how to safely operate one. I am very proud of her. Thanks Kev Pictured are 3 different tractors, a 312 310 & 520.

Yes, yes, yes, Happy Father’s Day to all the unrecognized, under appreciated, hard working, unconditional lovers you are! Oh and the rest of you dads as well. 😉 I got breakfast burritos for breakfast and two very nice moving messages from from step kids. My own has yet to rise so I patiently wait. 😜

Washed the 1984 Work Horse GT-1600, and the 1994 520H, getting ready for the Big Show…

Happy Fathers Day. For all those who have ever helped their dads.

Ok, looks like I’m finally getting to come back to the big show! I’ll have to get some pics, hoping to post Monday night. I’m looking to sell a few tractors. Right now I have a C195 - a little rough & needs love, but hydro works, 3 point works, good down pressure. I have a 312 with around 500 hours, but is faded from sitting out and needs a seat. I have a GT14 tiller, and am thinking of selling a few others. I’ll post pics and prices sometime Monday evening. It’s just good to be back!

A sign my boy got me and offered to take us to lunch.

...making them was the easy part! Raising them is where the work is! To all who made some kids, or just took the job because you're a real man- I salute you and wish you a very Happy Father's Day!

I’ve had two 520’s over the years and both were great and trouble free. I mowed with one for 20 years and it didn’t miss a beat and I had a front end loader on the other one. Here they are along with my Dad’s black hood that is still going strong for over 40 years with just basic maintenance and indoor storage.

Here is my youngest daughter last summer (yes,, she has Down Syndrome) having a ball on the 312-A. Unfortunately I won't hear from her today because she lives with her mother in PA, who hates me for escaping her clutches and thwarts my daughter's attempts to communicate with me. I did get to see her for a few days recently though. She is the youngest of my biological kids. Had a disagreement with the oldest daughter in PA recently (33) so she is unlikely to contact me. . My biological son (30) texted me earlier today. My two stepchildren (daughter 21 and son 16) are here and busy making an awesome dinner for me. Wife made me French Toast this morning with fresh blueberries and strawberries - it was delicious. I've been mowing and weedwacking today by choice, but ready to relax now. Hope all you dads are having a great day!

For those of you who have gained kids along the way, and made a difference in their lives too, thank you for being awesome!

I think all the kohler powered Wheel Horses can hold their own when push comes to shove. I have had C series but never owned a 520. The meanest baddest one that I have owned was the 416-8. Powerful and stable machine and I felt very comfortable behind the wheel.

I have a 1977 C-120/180-8 with a 2010 Briggs Vanguard, 520-H and a raised 312-8 with a 1" axle they are all tough. For the ease of equipment changes, and solid stability on hillsides way beyond 15 degrees, and fewer sheet metal problems that come with the later Wheel Horses it's my C-120 that's the toughest. I've modified a couple thing to make it tougher ever bearing and bushing has been changed with the exception of the ones on the steering shafts. Bushing added to areas that original had none. It's been in used 45 years from the middle of February mowing until the middle of December picking up leaves. It is still doing more then half the mowing.

Cool stuff Steve. I have a folding Buck knife I bought around 1985. Not long after I got it I tried using the tip for something I shouldn't have. Used it with 1/4" broken off the point for years and years. Got to remembering one day that Buck had a forever warranty. I sent it via snail mail and completely forgot about it for a few months. One day a got a package back from Buck. Turns out I had a very rare piece that the handle was made of a compound like Bakelite or whatever. More rare, mine's brown. Didn't sell many. They were so taken aback by the sheer existence of the knife they modified a blade from another model to fit. Sent it back good as new and then some. One of the folks in the repair/customer service department had been there since before my knife was sold and had never seen one. That was actual good ole fashioned customer service.

FIGURED THIS OUT, THANKS! WANTED to borrow or rent… I have rec fuel - looking for a cruiser for the weekend for Rylee. She planned on bringing a friend so I figured they would be better off on foot. Well, her friend’s parents just backed out and I’ve no room to bring her a cruiser. Any takers for any amount of time, please and thanks, she’s not picky but prefers a gear jammer.

I have several models, but I have to day my 310-8 is the toughest I have. Let me explain: it's carried decks sized 36-48, and been used as a bush hog in a couple cases. It's pulled moldboard plows, pushed dozer blades, and many times carried my tiller. It's cultivated, sprayed driveways and spread gravel. It's drug logs, and pulled a truck once. Point being: it may only have 10hp, but it has never shied away from work and never let me down. It does everything that has ever been asked of it, and comes back for more without complaint. I have several more powerful tractors, but none work like my trusty 310-8. I've rarely named any of my tractors, but if I did, the 310 would be "old faithful".

My son and I bought a Prime Weld 60 plasma cutter and so far we are very happy with it. So much easier than a torch to cut things, but will never not need a torch too. They all have there place. Hope to put it to good use if the weather ever cools down!!

Had some Daddy Daughter time, teaching about fuel line, threads, ptfe tape that’s safe for fuel, etc. Afterwards, an hour of play with both the girls in the pool. I’m whooped!

She’s got experience on about everything…

Most of you probably remember my old 81 C30 Camper Special I bought from an impound sale last year for $500. Been using it as my welding and service truck ever since, and it served me quite well, but last Sunday afternoon she left me stranded in the middle of a cow pasture in 114 degree heat, pretty sure head gasket went but haven't gotten to diagnose it yet as I just got it home today. Everyone has been telling me for sometime now that I needed to upgrade to a newer truck, so yesterday I did just that. After a couple hours of negotiations between me, my banker, and one of the local used car dealers we are now the proud owners of a 2004 Ford F350. Nothing fancy, just your basic no options work truck, which is all I really needed and wanted anyway, I never have been big on all the options, though I do wish it had cruise control, but everything else I can easily live without. Truck is just a 2 wheel drive, would have rather had 4x4 but it will work, and is equipped with the 6.0L PowerStroke Diesel and auto behind it. Here is the old 81 And here is the new F350 after we got home last night

Looking forward to seeing you and the fam @dells68!

Yes sir… got ‘‘em loaded… will hit Cowen WV tomorrow to visit MIL, leave for the Big Show on Wednesday morning…

Am I seeing double? nope just thought it was a cool pic in toy hauler!

It's a long walk home!

Gave the 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 it’s first bath, getting ready for the Big Show. Of course my first, the 1994 520H, had to take a bath too. Then I lead them to the shade (didn’t wanna get dirt on the floor boards)so they could calm a bit before loading them up.

I would say this: Your 520-H should do anything you ask that you're willing to ask with your backside in the seat. The only thing I don't do with my hydros is pull crazy weight with them. Will they pull as much as a gear drive? Absolutely, but I don't have enough spares to risk breaking one. I save the really heavy pulling for the gear drives.

Chevrolet incorporated the exact same rev limiter into their stock small block V8 since 1955.

That tractor is long gone. I never did put a stack on it but I did add a few things to it after this post was made. It is still one of my favorites was sad to see it go but I like passing them on and look forward to working on the next one. The 416-8 that I did after this one is still my all time favorite. That is the only one I regret getting rid of. Before and after of that one.

Okay guys, that tells me all I need to know right there!! If I use it, its staying like it is, I am too old and broken to go to that much work!!!! Randy

I’m partial to the black hoods too because I have one that was my dad’s but any of the long frame, big engine machines are very stout and all are very similar in design.

By this do you mean you intend to use the Starter Generator rather than the magnum electrical system? Here is some information from Brian Miller's site about the differances and similarities between K and M engines. Differences Between the Kohler K-series and Magnum Engine Blocks - Unlike the old school small- and big-block Chevy V8's, the Kohler K-series and Magnum engine block models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 are not all the same. There are several variations in bolt patterns and PTO end flange configurations between these blocks. Before replacing an engine block and if possible, the best thing to do is have the original engine rebuilt, then all the original accessories will attach to the original block with no modifications. But if the original engine block is not rebuildable and damaged beyond repair, another block of the same type (specification number) will need to be acquired. If interested in purchasing a bare block, please email me several detailed, sharp photos of your original engine block taken at all sides so I match it to one I may have in stock. Packaged shipping weight for each bare block is 45 lbs. The Major Differences Between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 Kohler Engine and Blocks - The K241 and M10 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.250" and the stroke is 2.875". All of these blocks have an exhaust valve diameter of 1.125" and the intake is 1.375". Some rare K241 blocks have "K301" embossed on the PTO end. These have a thicker cylinder wall than ordinary K241 blocks. The K301 and M12 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.375" and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between these two blocks. These blocks have the same size valves, and most external parts will interchange. Due to the smaller cubic inch displacement, which lessens the amount of air that enters the engine, theses engines use a Carter or Kohler #26, or Walbro #52 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor. The K321 and M14 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.500' and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321 or M14 engines. The early K321 blocks have an exhaust valve diameter of 1.125", and the valves in the later K321 blocks are the same diameter, which is 1.375". Some internal, but most external parts on the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321 and M14 engines will interchange, with the exception of the early style K241 cylinder head and size of the carburetor. Due to the larger cubic inch displacement, which increases the amount of air that enters the engine, the K321 and M14 engines use either a larger Carter or Kohler #28 or #30, or Walbro #60 (1.17" or 1.2" throttle bore) carburetor. The K341 and M16 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.750" and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 or M16 engines, except the valves are the same diameter, 1.375". And the K341 and M16 blocks have 10 cylinder head bolts. Due to the larger cubic inch displacement, which increases the amount of air that enters the engine, the K341 and M16 engines also use a #30 (1.2" throttle bore) carburetor. And most external parts, except the cylinder head and air shields, will interchange with the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 engines. The Major Differences Between the Kohler K-series and Magnum Engine Blocks - Some Kohler blocks have wide base flanges (for the wide, deep oil pan) and some have a narrow base with no flanges. (These are used on Cub Cadet, Ford, certain John Deere and Wheel Horse garden tractors.) Most Magnum blocks are wide base, and very few are narrow base. The very early K241 10hp blocks have no indentation for installing an upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor). Also, some of these older blocks with flanges have no holes drilled for converting to a narrow base oil pan. (But holes can be drilled and tapped.) Some blocks have either a drilled or threaded oil dipstick tube hole next to the cylinder, above the crankcase, while others have no hole present. Some blocks have provisions for a starter-side oil dipstick tube, and some don't. Some blocks came with counterbalance gears and some didn't. Some have expansion plugs where balance gear stub shafts can be installed, and although certain blocks have the bosses, some have no holes drilled for the stub shafts. All Kohler Magnum blocks have no provisions for ignition points. Some blocks have two threaded holes for installing an exhaust pipe flange, and some don't. Some blocks have provisions to install a mechanical fuel pump, and some don't. Some blocks have different bolt patterns on the PTO end, and Gravely blocks have a raised circular flange. (See below.) Some K241 blocks with K301 embossed on the PTO end have a thicker cylinder wall, and some K241 blocks without the K301 embossing have an ordinary thickness cylinder wall. The 12 fin K341 blocks have an ordinary thickness cylinder wall, and the 13 fin K341 blocks have a thicker cylinder wall. Other than all of the before mentioned È, everything else on the Kohler K-series engine blocks are pretty much the same. The Differences Between the Old Kohler K-series and the Newer Kohler Magnum Engines - The Magnum engines replaced the K-series in later years. The Magnum engines are basically the same engine as the K-series. The main differences are, besides the baffle shields (sheet metal) that covers the block, the Magnum has solid state ignition, a fixed main jet (Walbro) carburetor and the starter fastens to the OEM bearing plate instead of the engine block. And there are no provisions for using ignition points. Most of the external and all the internal parts are interchangeable, and most aftermarket (high performance) parts are interchangeable with either engine. A Kohler K-series and Magnum M10, M12, M14 and M16 single cylinder engines will fit in place of a Kohler K241 or M10 engine. These all basically have the same external dimensions, with the exception of the 16hp, which has a larger cylinder. Kohler engines are like the old school small block or big block Chevrolet V8 engines. A small block 400 CID engine can be used in place of a 265 CID engine, and a big block 572 CID [crate] engine can be used in place of a 366 CID [truck] engine, because they basically have the same external dimensions. The main difference with Kohler engines is the bolt patterns on the PTO end of the block. Each block is made specifically for the garden tractor, small motorized vehicle or lawn and garden equipment it goes in. When replacing an engine block with another, make sure the bolt pattern matches that of the original block so the PTO accessories, braces and brackets can be bolted on with no modifications. The Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 can be used in any Cub Cadet garden tractor. The majority of the Magnum 10-16hp single cylinder engines have flanges at the base. Therefore, the block will need to be converted into a narrow base by cutting off the flanges on each side and then cut new threads in the holes in the block for the narrow oil pan. And the other parts that's needed are: a K-series large OEM bearing plate with an upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor), or a small K-series OEM bearing plate with a starter/generator; a small or large diameter K-series flywheel with a matching flywheel shroud and baffle shields (sheet metal); and being there's no provisions for ignition points and no points lobe on the Magnum camshaft, Kohler's Breakerless Ignition or crank trigger ignition will need to be used. Also, because of the 3/8" flywheel retaining bolt, an aluminum clutch hub adapter with a 3/8" hole will need to be used, acquire a 5/8"-3/8" reducer/step washer. (I make these.) Everything else should fit in the tractor with no problems. Only eight models of the 10-16hp Kohler Magnum single cylinder cast iron block engines was manufactured as a narrow base. The specification numbers for these are as follows: M10, specification #'s 461509, 461534 (Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050); M12, specification #'s 471512, 471514, 471570 (Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1210); M14, specification #'s 601512, 601513; and M16, specification # 711536. All other 10-16hp Magnum engine block specification numbers are a wide base. Any Kohler Magnum single cylinder 10-16hp engine would be excellent to pull with. The only problem is, being these come with solid state ignition, with no provision for ignition points, if a steel flywheel is going to be used, a crank trigger ignition system will be needed, too. Also, if the engine has counterbalance gears, they will definitely need to be removed because one or the other could break, destroying the block and other parts. For most engines, it does absolutely no good to reinstall them. Most Kohler engines don't come with them and in most engines, they do very little to reduce engine vibration. When left out, the engine should not vibrate more than usual. Being balance gears are made of cast iron material and operate [out of balance] on a single, narrow needle bearing for support, they've been known to break and destroy the crankshaft, camshaft and engine block. I've seen this happen to a good engine a few times. Therefore, I highly recommend leaving them out. But if the engine vibrates excessively with the absence of the balance gears, the flywheel and/or crankshaft will need to be dynamically and precision spin-balanced to reduce engine vibration. Click or tap here to learn more about flywheel and/or crankshaft balancing. For a steel flywheel, visit Midwest Super Cub's website. How to Convert a Single Cylinder Kohler K-Series Engine into a Magnum Engine - To convert the Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321 or K341 engine into a Magnum M10, M12, M14 or M16 engine, the parts that's needed are: Magnum OEM bearing plate; starter motor (the support brackets for the starter are for mounting of the starter solenoid only. They do not support the starter motor whatsoever); flywheel (w/external magnet); plastic cooling fan assembly; flywheel shroud; solid state ignition coil w/mounting screws; plastic inner air baffle; cylinder head (cover) and cylinder (side) baffles (sheet metal). The only difference in these baffles is the M10, M12 and M14 all share the same baffles over the cylinder head and on the cylinder, and the M16 use different (larger) baffles. The Kohler points pushrod hole will also need to be plugged with a Briggs & Stratton points plunger plug. And when installing the bearing plate, the cam pin hole will need to be sealed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant because the Magnum bearing plate will not cover the hole. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal any warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of silicone makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts. FYI - Solid state ignition provides a more stable ignition timing than points ignition. The ignition timing for a K-series engine is less stable because the points operate off the camshaft, which has a tendency to "move around" a few thousandths of an inch while the engine is running, which effects the ignition timing. Flywheel-triggered ignition timing, such as the Magnum solid state ignition, is more stable because it operates off the crankshaft, which doesn't "move around" as much as the camshaft. One thing is lessened and another is gained with either ignition system.

Painted the flywheel cover for the S-17 yellow, to match the color scheme. Then mowed and washed the 855 for the show. The washing was mostly getting the "extras" out of the treads and the dry grass clippings out of the undercarriage.

How about a Super C? This one is still under rehabilitation, so I haven't put it to really hard work yet.

Wow, no big wheel fans, or haven’t you had the chance yet? Heavier frame, front end, transmission mount, hydro lift, cast iron nose, simple Kohler engine, bigger fuel tanks, high ground clearance, etc…

Building permits are unconstitutional.

Absolutely perfect fathers day! Thank you @Pullstart for this thread. My son made brownies & double meat angel hair spaghetti, (had to add my own mushrooms, he hates them,lol). Meat, starch, sugar, & a nap... Perfect ! Followed by gifts as follows. 12 pack Mountain Dew 12 pack Coca Cola & New sign for the shop!

I’ll be a first timer at the show. Really looking forward to. I’m driving from MA, so if anyone local needs something delivered or picked up….

RESOLVED Set gap to .020 Started, ran fine. Static timing ended up around 10° beyond TDC. Thanks for all the help.

Washed the 1984 Work Horse GT-1600, and the 1994 520H, getting ready for the Big Show !

For a decent C-161, I would have endured such a dangerous and frightful day just like you did. I for one, appreciate your humanitarian sacrifice. So many people (idiots) would have just shooed that poor creature away and not provided a loving home....

I should finally add, as my last laugh in this thread... People who consider boosting any application that does not have active pressure lubrication... oil pump... etc... proves that: They know nothing about small engines. They don't care if the engine grenades. Anyone legitimately contemplating boosting a small engine will invest in a full pressure lube engine, and the durable parts to go along with that engine. Anyone who doesn't do those things... well... let's just say... I don't have very nice things to say. This thread was a dead-end from the start... and I really don't think there is anything left to say... certainly nothing that hasn't been said before... so... I'm out. When someone has a literal project that they want to boost or modify, I'm here to help. Otherwise... may this thread... Don

Will most likely do everything you need it to do.

Also far simpler. Magneto ignition is dependable and easier to maintain. No points, no coil. Easy peasy.

And the cost of bottled torch gas right now is high. I like the plasma using the drag tip and 1/8 straight edge as a guide on those flat plate cuts.

The flywheel beating plate is the big difference between K and Mag single cylinders. The starter on Magnums bolts to the bearing plate, where the K series bolt to the block. You're better off swapping the bearing plate (don't forget the crankshaft endplay setting) and treat it as a shortblock. Almost a complete teardown.