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Don't know if this is considered mandatory, but seems like the polite thing to do. I'm in NW Ohio and have several 300's that I use for lawn work and tree farming. Was on another forum that I think is now defunct, and have been to the PA show (and others) a couple times. I've been busy, but now semi-retired and working my way back into some hobbies. Have WH experience to share and some spare parts that I might try to re-home. I'll try to get some photos up as I find time. Looking forward to interacting with y'all... - Rick

New seat for the E 141 from Lincoln at A to Z… fit perfectly and love the look!!!

I was heading out to pick up some 6-12 tires from a guy in Ct. And we went buy and saw this. Pretty cool, I think. It is welded on a pole I believe he was using this tractor as advertising for his dealer ship. Hope you enjoy the picks.

Repaired the wiring connections to the PTO safety switches on the 520-H. And removed the ty wrap that someone had previously installed. Only had to put new connections on 2 of the wires.

Haven't been active much due to trying to get ready for a wedding is hectic lol but I did get the D160 out and took the mower off and threw the blade back on to do some barn work so it got to play with the big boys while I was pushing dirt/rock with it so I could put down milling material for the reception along with some concrete repairs. (Original barn burnt in the 80s so there was some popped out spots)

Put some weights on the 160.

It is surprising how little attention is paid to honing or sharpening stones even amongst many craftsman. There seems also to be a certain lack of knowledge about the different types and their advantages or disadvantages. They are as important as the tools that they used on. There are many different ways of sharpening edge tools but if one wants consistent predictable results , the proper honing stone used correctly is the key to it. Honing or sharpening stones are either man made or natural . They can be so called oil stones or water stones. With the oil stones a light oil or kerosene is used to lubricate stone and prevent the metal particles from clogging it. Water can also be used for that purpose but once oil is used one should not change to water. Personally I prefer kerosene. I’ll describe only the three major types available. Norton is probably the biggest and best manufacturer of oil stones. They come essentially in three grits . Coarse, medium and fine. All grits are either India Stones made out of Aluminum Oxide, or Crystolon Stones made out of Silicon carbide. Indias are usually orange in color and Crystolons are gray. Below is Norton’s Multistone system . Stones are 2-1/2”x12” and are kept in a kerosene bath. India Fine Crystlon Medium Crystolon Rough Japanese water stones are also man made. They come in many different grits much finer than any other man made stone. They use strictly water since the water creates a slurry which provides more efficient cutting. They are messy due the water and the slurry created. They also need frequent maintenance since they are soft and wear quickly. They require considerable knowledge and experience to be used effectively. They are probably the best sharpening stones bar none. They are expensive and not recommended as a beginner stone. Japanese 4000 grit stone With natural stones the name to mention is Arkansas. They are quarried here in the US from geological formations of Novaculite. They are the most durable stones and quite expensive. Minimal maintenance is required since they are so hard. However since they are a natural product there are inconsistencies within the same stone different areas of it may cut more or less aggressively. Their grades are Soft (white with grayish patterns), Hard (white), Surgical Black ( black) and Translucent White. The last two are some of the finest stones available. They are extremely expensive overall size and thickness being a big factor in that. The Rolls Royces of honing stones. Arkansas Surgical Black, and Arkansas White Translucent. These are a full inch thick and 2x6 inches. One inch thick Arkansas are today extremely hard to come by and very expensive. 99% of all Arkansas are 1/2” thick only. The advantage of the one inch thick stone is that it will not break easily like the half inch stone will and when sharpening narrow carving tools one uses the edges of the stone so as not to gouge stone with the very narrow tool. Arkansas Combination. Soft this side Arkansas Combination . Hard white this side.

I geared up the drive pully to a 2 inch and the engine pully is 7 now I have a small car lol I would have posted yesterday but I could not stop driving it

Here is “Lunch Money” a Raider 14. 1 of my 2 pulling tractors. Pulled it today got a third 5th and 6th

paint and started reassembly

Excellent busy day around the EB/BBT acreage today. General yard duty stuff. Moved wood. Split wood. Chipper shredder got some activities. One of the things I've always found interesting about Trina and I is how much we think alike. Earlier today I was out in the forest and took this pic. A bit if time later she's up front by the shed and sends me this. Neither one knew the other one had done that... 🤪 Here's a few more..... And a video...

This was cool tho ... immaculate restoration and didn't get to talk with the owner about specifics. Dan was busy showing one of our buddy's girls the finer points of running Big Betty. The guy with the half track also had these honorable mentions. Same guy.... supposedly the paint on the cab and sleeper was 25k on the bandit special. No matter the guy has gotta have some serious coin in this rig. Wondered if he has the trailer? Ton of hit & miss stuff. Pics do not do a spark show justice.

brake parts and drum are from mid 1930's (ford) i believe they are called wide 5 brake drums

Brought another C-81 home yesterday...

Going north on 81 above Chambersburg there is a whole tractor and trailer (semi) up on a sign like that...

And another....

All three 1960’s Old rusty with the Clinton B1290 The other one with the Kohler and the other one with the lauson Tecumseh! One of each!!!! The front sickle will be going on Rusty soon, that way there is a different implement on each…

I removed the ram pac hydraulic pump and installed the rebuilt pump and changed the hydraulic cylinder out with a rebuilt one. No more leak down or hydraulic fluid leaks. It looks like the pump shaft seal was leaking on the ram pac. I opened it up and found a broken spring.

Not much pulled them out of the stables for some fresh air.

Rust-Oleum Regal Red is pretty much unavailable in my area to experiment with. That said, I bought a gallon of Rust-Oleum Tractor & Implement paint in the International Red. After that paint dried on a test panel, it was too dark to match the NOS hood that I have. So, I bought another gallon in the Ford Red which was an ugly orange red. LOL. Anyhow, I experimented mixing the two together, and found that 8 parts International Red mixed with 1 Part Ford Red came very close to the color of the NOS hood. I have been mixing the two colors together and then adding the Majic brand reducer and hardner with the Rust-Oleum paint with great success. More photos to come later.

Didn't take a whole lot of pictures but I did get a few. Roof palomino. Nice Oliver. Our friend Pat was having fun playing in the mud. I thought that adding some extra cleats to his tires might help him out. My family's line up of little farm tractors.

Did some mowing with the GT-1848 with the recently repaired and mostly repainted 48" deck, but then I blew the bearings on the drive belt idler pulley, so I finished mowing with the 312-A and 42" deck. I had been away so the grass was about a foot tall in many places - gotta go over it all again in a few days. Here are the 2 tractors mentioned, resting in the garage last night: I won't have the new idler pulley till Tuesday but got a new belt already at Rural King. Took things apart and found that the whole compartment under the shifter plate had been filled up with bedding by mice. What's in the shovel was about 2/3 of what came out, the rest was sucked up by the shop vac: Gave the GT a power wash next, mainly to get the crud out of the cooling fins on the hydro pump:

Put all new tires on and cleaned up my 416H a little bit. Used the card method to paint rims. Worked well overall although putting the cards on the rear rims was tougher as the slightest wind blew them over. On the front, they were very secure and stood more upright. Which is why I taped the front tires and painted the rears by the doors of the shed to avoid fumes. This machine is prob not going to be used much mowing anymore which is why I went with black rims.

I bought that same seat from A-Z at one of the shows a couple of years back, love it!

Sure .Finishing off the next section of this one which is using and maintaining stones . Then it will be the actual sharpening in which i will include a variety of tools knifes included.

ED , you run out of magic buckets yet ?

I was asked yesterday if i can help few neighbours at mowing. The grass was growing the last weeks that high because we have lot of Rain, so their Handmowers wasn‘t be able to do the job. They stall after each meter of mowing. We (means me and „the Bavarian“) decided did it, and the 56year ol Wheelhorse can impressive show how an older mower will perform, where 2 brandnew mowers give up instead. At least i mowed a small stripe on the Shed areal and doing a complete cleanup with the Tingletrailer after the Hedge mowing with the Beast. it seems, i have a little Weakpoint in my Hedge mowerbar i made for the Beast. While mowing with high RPM, the Oilmotor rips all its Screws out of it’s mountpoints close to the finish. Allway‘s impressive what massive torque hydraulic will have. All other hardware do a excellent job and the few Screws on the Oilmotor are allready removed and exchanged. I believe i must decreased down a littlebit the Hedgemowing speed. Took this pict to show you the grassheight before Mowing in our Areal. This unmowed section was still kept for the Bees.

@formariz if you have not or not working on one, you really need to write a book. tons of good info.

Yard art…

Some folks just don't get it. Same folks that would ask why the Unidrive is full of water...

Was a great show as usual spite the rain on Saturday. Pulls got cancelled so that was no good. Nothin horendous but enough to keep the crowds supporting th club away. I got a few pics but not what I should have.... @Achto ? I had four ther and Dan had four. Bad news was the tub got on the hauler under her own power but her pre show bath must have gotten moisture on the points which of course are under the flywheel. Worst part I had her running like a Swiss watch.

Fair amount done again today. Since I installed the Mackissic chipper shredder the left side of the bracket has seriously impeded the axle tilt to that direction. Today I ground the nub of the casting of the axle flat. Much better. We also finished moving the rest of the 10 yds of loam we'd had delivered a few weeks ago. I moved 4 loads of around 15 - 17 cu feet each so well over 2 cu yds. All hand shovel loaded. 90% hand shovel unloaded too. Damn good workout. Part of it is now a path from the pallet bridge to the garden gate. The rest is now in a spare loam pile. While I started getting my head wrapped around what needs to be done to move the truck and it's portable garage, Trina and her mom moved and stacked more firewood.

I know a number of members think the safety switches are more trouble than they are worth. I believe in them and I'm pleased to see you keeping them in good operating condition. Congrats

Find an auto parts store that has a color match camera. They can take a picture of the hood and a computer will come up with a matching formula. Many of the stores can put the paint into a spray can if you wish.

New seat today from A to Z tractor…

Take the "Good Enough" approach on this one - not worth much effort - Any charity work will end up the same as you found it if the owner treats it the same way again. Watched a So-Cal Car Club documentary a few years ago - the banner hung in the Garage said " If you have no pride in your ride, leave it outside". They appreciated all their toys...

So my neighbor has been wanting me to try and get a go cart running… been sitting outside for years… not good… Gas tank had major rust… took it off to clean it, and the tank has a big rust hole. You just can’t let equipment sit outside… I guess he’ll be buying a tank. Got her running though. Carb bowl was full of rust too … Air filter had turned to dust… I had to vacuum the air cleaner out to keep it from crumbling and falling down into the carb…

This is always a good idea! I did the same when I mowed, I left several patches of clover flowers for the bees and the bunnies.

Took the C-165 auto out yesterday to rototill ten horseshoe pits for my volunteer fire department’s annual fundraiser. I didn’t get any pictures of it in action, but here ya go!

Finally an update. The back story is that ever since I picked up the 418, I've wanted to raise it higher simply because I like mow my lawn at 4+ inches. I believe the WH mower decks are designed to "float" ( although float may not be the right word ) and keeping the deck fully retracted against the frame prevented this. So I started fiddling with ideas and the easiest was to buy 6" deck wheels from Oregon and try those. They helped but I only picked up 1/2" of mow height. My next thought was to extend the height of the front spindles and make a plate to go between the frame and transmission. The goal was to lift the entire frame up by 1.5". To extend the spindles I cut them in half and added a spacer as in the first picture below. I welded them together and the second photo shows the final result. I made a plate and test fit it but I found there were other areas to address ( transmission belt, raising the seat pan and linkages ) so I copped out and bought larger diameter tires as in the third photo. They solved the other mods from the plate problem and I picked up the extra height frame I was looking for. I still was not entirely please with the mow height so I made a set of 7" deck wheels. They worked great BUT I lost a good portion of the clearance between the mower deck and rear tire depending on the ground and if the deck was fully retracted. This led to the original post about adding a spacer to get the clearance back. What I finally decided to do was to cut off part of the mower deck just in front of the rear tires ( see the fourth photo ) and it so far it's working fine. So the moral of the story is, be careful when you start to screw around with your tractor. You may get what you wish for but it could take a while... ;-)

I had 5 hp briggs in the shop, the water rusted the intake valve stem to the guid and the owner tried to start it snapped off the lifter and scared the cam a little. Of course I had to get used parts new ones NLA. go figure. They must of pulled like a gorilla on the rope?

Thats the great thing about recycling the older stuff, you get some really good quality/robust fittings that are hard to buy these days. Even the guttering would be expensive to buy, there wont be a lot that I don't somehow re-use from this. My only thing is I don't like junk laying about the yard - it will be processed and used quickly, anything left will be firewood.

Took my brass valves into the scrap yard, $485.00, it had cost me $35.00 to have the DOM machined. Picked up another half dozen tanks this afternoon, two of which contain propane.

Working my way into the chest body. Underside of second lid made useful also. First lid Second lid underside

Just wondering, how are the switches working now that you removed the zip tie? I'm curious why it was put there in the first place.

I'm looking at those door hinges. VERY serious hardware there.

Plastic guides for the tensioner bar do wear.

Today, I replaced the axle seal & idler pulley along with put a new drive belt on my 314-8. After that I finished up running quick disconnect battery cables to the rear hitch.