Leaderboard

K301 carb connected and the linkage adjusted. Coil mounted. The starter return spring is knackered (I do like that word). Removed it and messed with it until it could rightly tuck when mercilously rammed by the bendix. Mounted. Stared at three mufflers and an assortment of piping. It's down to painting an original ebay model that now sits on the old C120 and is quieter than the remake. This rebuild has been fun. She's about ready to start so I can see if a 60 year old brain can align timing marks and how much a 301 vibrates without its balance gears. It could all go to hell but it never has since the teen days. First bore though so it will be a 12HP engine that actually makes 12HP.

Whatever it is it would make a pretty cool shifter handle for a rat tractor.

I mowed this evening with my late grandfathers 416H. I love how it stripes. I’m pretty sure my neighbors love the fact that my headlights now work and I can mow well into the evening. Tonight was til 9 and I still have about a 1/3 left!

I never did show my hood now did I? Better late than never.. my dad bent op some sheetmetal according to a buck I made to follow the shape of the grille as closely as possible. This is the result. Unfortunately I had to notch the hood to make the cylinderheads fit. No biggie in itself but the "International" sticker will read something like "Inte_____onal".

All the plastic is back in place and I’m ready to pull something!

Our Denali now has limited eyesight, but still plenty healthy and active otherwise. 2 new cat additions, Cheeto and Snickers, are plenty interesting to her. Her pups Monroe and Selu hefted up over the winter and are now on a bit of a diet! And Rex the seal coated bunny is interesting to everyone, and he does the 'ol hop kick bang on the side of his cage if they mess around too much!

It is for this reason that the first thing that we get working on a new to us tractor is the cigar lighter. Gotta make sure that works before we determine if the engine will even run.

While the starters off clean the surface of the block and the mounting pads of the starter. Clean the bolt threads. It only takes a little bit of dirt and rust to cause voltage drop.

Apparently it is an adjustable wrench, perhaps the predecessor to today's monkey wrench. Probably for tightening square headed bolts and nuts.

So far the best explanation as to what it is I have found is that it is part of a carbonation system from an old soda fountain, or maybe a brewery or tavern. Thinking it is supposed to have an electric motor on it, but someone converted it to be ran off of a flat belt. Hook it up to a Maytag 92 and it might be an interesting piece at a show.

Well Now, After rounding up all the usual suspects, it turned out the culprit was one we did not suspect. The old starter solenoid had a whopping voltage drop of 3 volts across it during cranking. Without getting my slide rule and calculator out I can already estimate the current or amperage loss would be approaching 75 amps easy. As soon as i measured that drop I knew right away this had to be changed out. Once a new one was installed and all the terminals cleaned, it turns over like the wind now without issue at all. I can see its time to change all the high current cables. So they are on my list. I cannot measure a voltage drop across the new solenoid.

Also known as a hand vise. Is the other side for metric? 🔩

Bailey on the way home from the doggie spa !

I've gotten into the habit of putting the negative battery cable directly to one of the starter mount bolts. Not sure if that's practical in all models.

Have not updated in awhile,life and all! Most if the work was done with my c-160 and my 312-8

I found a mouse nest a couple weeks ago on a shelf in the garage, it smelled nice. The dryer sheets lining the nest were a nice fashion statement!

Yes thanks I did find that and had it adjusted back so far the clutch was almost on the floorboard. I think that is the problem .the transmission input key is good but I just realized that the wheel hub key looks to be half out maybe.

I see from the wheelchair supply you are ready for the annual Big Show Games…

If the donor kubita isnt available, or just seems oversized, im gonna bite the bullet on one of the HF towables, do some digging with as is, then work on adapting to Dug. Gotta get the pool in!

Still working on those spindles! But spied a burnt down small kubota tlb(b23?) Working on figurin who owns the machine and what it would take to get the backhoe off of it! Likely need all new hoses and may need to rebuild cylinders and controls. Fingers crossed!

Exactly right. It is an adjustable wrench . To my knowledge the first of its kind. Square nuts were the norm at that time and many relatively large . It has a 1-3/4” capacity. As per my father my grand father already inherited it from his father. Pictured here with an item it probably was used on frequently. Hardware used on an oxen cart.

Yes. A wider gap advances to timing.

Another layer of paint and that bad boy wouldn'ta fit!

Those gaskets are available ... think it was on fleabay I got some. We run our pellet grills at shows off our vintage tractors don't we @Achto Think the Ponds would have dreamed we would be charging smart phones & smoking pork off cigar lighters when they put them on in the 60's?!?!?

The hydro lift would be the way to go with your snow blower, also you will probably be doing more direction changes while blowing snow than mowing so the 416's hydro trans is a big plus. We had an UGLY SEAT CONTEST here a few years back, too bad you didn't have the C-105 then.

You could swap out the known good starter from the other to see if the problem goes away. It could very well be the starter is dragging a bit but I would think this wouldn't change with engine temperature. I think that new battery cables should be considered too.

Started moving the wheelhorses to the temporary storage unit in town. This is "Pete" the C-161 that's getting an engine transplant and FEL. Amazingly the half knackered briggs fired up and let me drive him to the trailer - has sat for nearly 2 years. All the fibreglass bodywork is already at the storage unit, along with the 416-8.

You ain’t kidding. This thing weighs a ton. We have a big show this weekend. The thought crossed my mind to bring it and run it. My friends are trying to get me to bring my pellet smoker so I could run that with it I hope. I can always bring the little inverter as a back up.

I made some progress on it tonight after I got home from Alex’s baseball practice. Carb is clean and reinstalled. I drained the old gas out of the tank and flushed it with new stuff. I pulled a glass fuel bowl off of my complete k90, that sits on display, just to test it but the cork gasket that seals the glass to the fuel shut off is bad and leaks gas. Tomorrow I get home before 8 for once (baseball is life for these boys even over tractors) since there is no baseball. I’m going to try cutting my own gasket and see if I can get it to fire up.

Bailey !… He goes to doggie spa tomorrow !

Mike, goat droppings are little pallets sort of like deer poop. I may not know much but don't let anyone tell you I don't know $H!t.

Today I set out to cure a design flaw that plagues most of our tractors. First let me start off by saying - "If you've never cut 10ga sheet metal with a jig saw, then you are definitely missing out on life!" You really need to add it to your bucket list. I'm here to tell you that it is like hitting your self in the head with a hammer. It feels good to stop. Now back to the task at hand. What flaw was I fixing? Why did I need to cut 10ga with a jig saw? Well first off I did not have a hole saw big enough to do the job, this is why I used a jig saw. Why was there 10ga sheet metal on a D160? IDK, don't know the back story on the custom fenders and seat set up. Guess the PO wanted to make sure that they were heavy enough. As for the flaw, well I plan on using my new to me D160 with a double seat as a show cruiser and there was just no place to safely set my drink while I'm cruising around. To cure this issue as well as cure the issue for my passenger I added two cup holders to the center counsel. But wait!! There's more! Because I saw them and decided that it was a GOTTA HAVE item. Also because I think that even a rusty old tractor deserves a little "BLING", I stepped it up a little with my cup holders. Can you say LED?? Sure, I knew you could. Should have no problem finding where to put your drink while cruising around in the dark with these babies.

As she goes

The 416’s hydro unit is an Eaton 1100 and uses 10w-30 motor oil and that NAPA Wix filter mentioned above. The Eaton handles the tractor forward and reverse motion AND the hydraulic lift. So one fluid/filter swap takes care of both motion and lift. The C-105-8 speed uses 80-90w gear oil. Approximately 2 quarts.

This might be trivial, but I'd keep the tires not only off the dirt but also off concrete as well. Short term concrete is preferred of course. But here where we have 100% humidity most of the year- tires will rot and crack on the contact patch even on concrete. I keep mine on plastic blocks or treated lumber. I guess if your concrete is sealed it might be ok.

Air pump for a really big aquarium!

Nice looking C-105. Oh and nice beer too The thing that’s holding me back from committing to my C-105 is the engine issues. I’m wondering if it would be cheaper to find a good, used engine, instead of rebuilding the original. The original engine looks to have a few issues. Some are probably related. -Oil on head fins (cracked head?) -Smokes a lot when running -Pressure on oil dipstick -Stripped exhaust bolts, exhaust loose -Tons of metal in oil Since I’ve been told it was rebuilt in the past, who knows how much shady work was done to it then. The person I got it from most likely got the cheapest person to do the work. I also wouldn’t be against putting a non original engine in it. If everything else would fit like stock. Like a different Kohler engine if the same series. I try to not put more money into something than I can sell it for. Even if I have no intentions of selling it. With a few exceptions of course. I’m not opposed to sourcing another engine. If everything could be had for say a couple hundred dollars.

Kohler powered - Transmission drive belt 78-7100 replaced by 7473 - HB x 81.9" or 5/8" x 81.9" Onan powered - Tractor drive belt 107939 replaced by 93-9809 - (HB x 83.5" or 5/8" x 83-1/2")

Is the high/low shifter between gears? Don't force this shift lever - shifter fork damage will occur if you do.

What, those horses don't wipe their feet before going inside?

After the leaf clean up with the 312-8 I decided the duck pond needed to be bigger. Lots more to go but the old girl is holding her own. Got her stuck twice and had to pull her out once with the 312. Once all my scrap burning is done I will really be able to dish the pond base out nice like.

It was my way of adding humor.

Trans all back together now and refitted to the tractor. By 'eck it's a heavy, awkward lump. Tried the gears and all seem to work ok. Still got to finish putting every thing back together yet and get it down off the lift.

The plastic thing is on most carburetors for the past half century, they are there to limit adjustment of the idle mixture screw(s). Most people discard the junk.

I have a D series cylinder (~2.75"+ diameter) that I'm building into a new project but it isn't the volume that gives the force, it's the area of the face of the piston. With 750psi pump pressure, this cylinder will deliver up to ~3,600 lbs of force on extend and ~3,100 lbs of force on retract (the piston rod reduces the area of the face on that side). Do the math for the leverage of your setup (a bit tricky with all those separate linkages ) and you'll get a good idea of what the cylinder can do. (I'll hazard a guess that the cylinder top pivot is about 5" from the upper lift arm root pivot and the outer end of the lower lift arm is about 15" out yielding ~1,200 lbs of lift, i.e. 3600 x 5 ÷ 15. Replace the "15" with the distance to the center of gravity of your implement for other loading calcs.) I agree with: a) that on this rig, overbuilt as it is, the cylinder will likely stall before anything within the 3 pt breaks during a lift and b) that other parts of the tractor are probably more vulnerable.

Well boys and girls, here is the update. I changed the drive belt last week, and when I loosened the pulley, the little tab that depresses the PTO switch moved enough that it did not engage the safety switch. D'oh! Thanks for all the help guys!

Still don’t have a fuel gauge (yet) but it’s running! I need to flush the cooling system good and change the oil.

Since the whole hydraulic pump situation is a bit of a challenge and i've got to re-think the setup I turned my attention to the brakes. I was going to use some calipers of a small car, Peugeot 106 but it turned out that, although small, they were to big to fit between the frame and the caliper. My dad pointed me to motorcycle calipers of some vintage bikes. So I went a bought a set of calipers off a '77 Honda CB 750. Almost fit but the discs were a little to thick. So I skimmed both sides and made them fit. Next up mounting the calipers to the frame. Needed a bracket. Using Cardboard Aided Design I made a template and then transferred it to steel. Some welding later gave me this nice mount. There is still some flex in the frame but I think that will won't be an issue.