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First off, I Got to meet a couple of nice fellas when picking this up. @squonk, @rjg854 Would have liked to chat more but I did get back in time to coach our junior little league and go to my appointment.. much Thanks again and your friend is in my prayers. Soooo......I drove 380 miles to pick up this 1975 C160. Not too bad. I have numerous things to do like checking of wear areas and parts, improvements, etc to do to this thing... Definitely needs all fluids / filters replaced and I'll put a plug in and tune it up... I'm hoping to purchase a few thousand gallons of the Lucas tacky green?? Red?? HD?? grease @peter lena likes and just dip the whole thing in it. OR I'll go over stuff and put a dab here and there like he talks about to help keep costs down. lol Plan is give this the attention it needs. A few things need fixed like the hood latch and brake pedal as they are snapped off (see pics) (oh and if you have one in good shape or at least complete PM me please!) I don't think I wanna know how that cast iron foot pedal broke!? Must've been a great story Also, I noticed the engine isn't mounted on the right side. Cant be stock?? Replacement? Not 100% sure of too much of anything on this yet .... I'll look into it when I go over everything else. Just seemed strange. Runs and moves decent. Anyway, I borrowed a battery out of my 416 and moved it inside and very briefly looked the C160 over again. This looks like a solid candidate for bringing out the patina I see guys referring to sometimes......If dipping it in slippery Pete's grease doesn't pan out, any tricks of the trade on that? I did notice where a tiedown strap I had on wrong rubbed a little spot on the hood, it actually looked what I think is pretty good in that little spot now. Another cool thing about this is I noticed I can SEE a ton more on this compared to my 416 onan or kohler 417A. Of course the twins will be bigger,, but I was surprised to the room...Looks easier to work on with more room to get at stuff. Really liking the flip up seat and pan. That's a nice feature or seems like it would be. Although I'm not so sure about the seat. Thinking I may switch to a different style. That's just me. Back rest looks nice though. looking forward to working on this. And that muffler is .....? For some reason I kinda like it. Maybe use some of my high heat paint and make it black at least for now...... Cory

I've had several suspicious moles removed over the years, one about a year ago. The first biopsy on that one because the mole looked weird, then got called back to have another layer scraped off becsaue of that biopsy showing a high number of pre-cancerous cells. Had my yearly full body skin cancer scan today. Yup, FULL (like everywhere) body scan. Good results, nothing new. Good until next May. Moral of the story - if you have a weird lump, bump, or mole, or if an existing lump, bump, or mole has changed size or color, don't be shy, go get it checked out.

And a blood test every year doesn't hurt either...saved my life

@peter lena Here is the change you suggested and my picture I promised. Thank you

Cancer SUCKS!!! The treatment can seem even worse.. Get regular check ups & try to stay healthy.

If you buy one tractor for each implement that you want then you won't have to spend any time changing implements. It's a great time saver.

All new fuel line going on the 1054 today. I like how it’s dated

@Cee245 refered to rislone 30 wt , meant rotella 30 wt oil , must have slipped on the grease , pete

I posted this in another thread, but thought it might be more appropriate here. This is the one that got away. I could have had this 1931 Ford Convertible pick-up for $18,000. However I would have had to sell most of my horses to finance it. The rear end looks suspiciously like a Ride-Away Senior.

Nice save Cory Dave and Mike got you covered on the hidden engine bolts on these big singles. Come to the Big Show and you'll find a match in my bucket of pedals.

I also have a C-160 Auto..with hyd lift. The K341 engine has two bolts from the bottom going into the Oil Pan... Mine is the same. If you are in need of parts...like the broken pedal...or other stuff, I am not far from Erie... Near Saegertown (Blooming Valley actually). The one thing I would caution you on: The Sundstrand Hyd unit is very sensitive to any sort of debris in the oil...so take care when changing the oil... WIPE down everything around the filter and fill spout. The internals of the pump are soft BRASS and easily scarred...leading to poor performance. I've rebuilt about a dozen of these...that's how I know.

Did some rearranging in the outdoor workshop this evening. Got the temp set of front wheels and tires on the Cinnamon Horse C160 just to hold it off the ground til I get the permanent set tubed. I got one of those done with the help of Meeha/Mirror. @Pullstart The other one has a torn tube thanks to some 🐻 not watching the lever bar while installing the tire top bead. Oh well. I'll order more....

This is a pretty beat up 606 that we picked up at the Portage, WI show last year. The transmission needs to be swapped for a locked up one, because it’s still a good one. I’d like to keep the transmission for a good spare. The steering fan gear I’ve never seen with holes in it like this! As for the flowers, my SIL helped Rylee put the basket together for Mother’s Day. Apparently, it’s a “thriller, filler and spiller”.

Be werrry careful. Dem der camers can be adicktiv.

@8ntruck good for you , glad you had it done , worked in a very macho shop , guys were always blowing off and neglecting any health issue or problem , basically , screw those doctors and all their crap. saw a number of them die young 48- 53 , with existing cancer related and neglected issues . made me go the other way , regular check ups and related health service upgrades . stay smart , stay alive , pete

Just a teaser of the fact that this truck will clean up pretty nice. You can see Jay's old Chev in the background

We had to put this truck on a roll off and take it to the BMV as the son inherited it from his father and drove it on the old title. When the huge batteries failed, it was no longer started. Let's us just call this high potential for now. i did get it started last fall, and while the guy offered me a price that was profitable for a roller to sell off the VGC body parts, which was all the body, and the frame that has probably 60% of its 31 year old paint, even a part out of this truck would be worth considering. I did start a thread titled Free F 250. That's correct. free. We paid 140 for the wrecker and a bit for the title transaction. We did also insist that he take his wife out for dinner a few times as she had to endure a bit of waiting to get the truck gone, so all are happy. He also is getting a brand new factory defect air compressor with a tiny weld crack repaired because no one else would do it. So the long build process of the very noisy engine has not yet been determined if it is a top end build, or the problems go deeper In this day and age, with the crazy truck prices, we recognize what an opportunity this truck could be, but there are problems starting to surface. At least Buck and Roy now have pictures of an actual truck on page 43 of this thread

thanks, the bug hit me at an auction maybe 10 yrs ago.. there was a big, like new, 520 that I had to go check out. First thing that hit me was that it wasn't plastic, big heavy steel that looked like a real mini-me tractor that could actually work.. then the bid started and couldn't believe the price that it went for and at that point knew that these were real machines.

I'm always so envious of you fellers who have kids that like these old machines. My son has a little interest, but not sure how much yet. My girls know there is some red stuff in the barn, but have no interest in them. My hat is off to you who can generate interest in this hobby for the next generation!

Coming soon… clutch system upgrades and MORE SPEED along with front ski wheels for summer time show puttin’ around…

Welcome!! I just joined 2 weeks ago great bunch of fellas here all are eager to help out too!

I can't agree with you more, my Bride has to get checked once a year. She has been cancer free for fourteen years. Never get over or forget the feeling when you hear the C. Word as a diagnosis. Good advice, glad you had a good outcome.

It's alive. Got the Honda aligned and mounted. Full forward @ WOT she moves at a fast walk.... perfect for a show ride around. Now to build a steering /hood support, then a seat and some foot rests.

Blind your pursuers?

Added a spot in the rear and put it on a separate switch.Just in case I would need to see going backwards ,or something.

I'm a mutt alright a Heinz 57. 44 percent Scottish 34% English and northwestern European 17% Irish 5% Swedish According to ancestry.com

More like Mutt and Jeff

Is ther that much drag on it it that you would need to do this? I could see it if the oil was super cold. My hy's are all e start so I don't know.

Your repair shop does not have the resources of the Red Square Forum! At the top of the page, under Classifieds, choose Vendors. There you will find wheelhorsepartsandmore. Check out the website or, better, give them a call. They can overhaul nearly every hydraulic lift cylinder WH ever used. Lowell will have you back in business. Good luck

If the transmission has ATF in it, go with that on the change. The Sundstrands originally came that way and WH later issued a bulletin that said 30W oil was an authorized alternative. Some got changed over, some didn't. That being said, ATF has cleaning and anti-condensation properties that can't be matched by oil. I've opened up hydros with ATF in them, and they look as shiny and clean as the day they were built. I will never change mine over after seeing the inside of hydros with ATF vs conventional oil. Night and day difference!

I gotta git me one of them der new fangled panasonic camers...

Was nice meeting you also, Cory.

All of the C series tractors with big blocks bolt from the bottom on the right side. Pedal is specific for hydros. I had a pedal here for a manual but it wouldn't work. Trans filter is a Wix 51410 or Napa 1410.

Got my first in 2014, & 8yrs later the count is up to 16. This pic of my 12 out of 14 running tractors is from one year ago. Current status is 14 out of 16 that are turn key. The only treatment for the addition is an understanding significant other and a BIG garage. BTW, I'm in the market for a bigger garage.

I agree with getting regular check ups. I had 2 removed from my arm last year. 1 on my elbow and 1 on my forearm. About a month ago they froze about 10 on my arms and one on my face and one on my head. Biopsied another one on my head. I go next week to have it removed. Now I am on the 6 month plan.

Just had a basal cell removed today, good advice! Keep an eye on things that you can. Feels like i got stabbed in the back but glad it's gone.

Just to dot the i's and cross the t's.... Once you have the belt off, make sure the bearings in the mule are good and there is no wobble or grinding. Make sure there is nothing rubbing the belt as it routes to the deck. Confirm that the driven pulley on the deck is not damaged. Can you give get a picture showing how the replacement belt tracks on the mule pulleys?

There is a bazillion ways to do that old look. From specialty coating to oil rub downs. One little piece of fuel for thought. If you have any inkling that you may paint it, steer away from the soaking with petroleum products. Those applications can make it tough to paint later. Or I should say increases the preparation for paint.

Or a @SylvanLakeWH approved herd. I believe we agreed that it should be a minimum of two Horses per implement. I'm willing to sacrifice down to a couple "spares" given that I now have multiple implements.

The only thing better is two snow and two mowing horses.

Check the height adjustment rod with the wheels seen those twisted causing one side to mow lower. 42" decks are bad to get cracked at the height adjustor and rust out causing that side to mow lower. the deck that came with my 520 was that way. It could be bent where the spindle is mounted.

There is a big difference between patina and rust. As far as I know, there is no way to stop rust short of removing it.

I have another one on my phone that only uses one finger so I figured I'd better leave it off this forum.....

I've been pondering on this post. I was thinking some type of spring loaded tension pulley with a break center handle.

1975 used motor oil in the hydro and that's what's in it. Do not use ATF. Personally I use Mobil 1 . I believe the sticker on the tractor says 10/30 or 10/40. I use 10/40 in mine as it's a tad weak and it seems to help.

I will say this: a good running Wheel Horse is worth the effort. Once it gets to work like it was designed for- you'll be happy to look back on time spent getting it back up and running. Nothing produced in the last decade will ever compare to these machines, and once they are gone- there won't ever be any more. It's good to see another one being saved and put back to work!

Words of wisdom here, brethren. And at a fraction of the cost of those newfangled retail things (oftentimes found in a sickly green pallor). A little difficult to maintain, maybe, but hey, there’s Red Square here to help. Enlarge yer garage! Edit: the cost benefit analysis of adding garage space is all yours, lol.

Word of warning they always do look better in pics but if the price is right..... Yes you can.... now you know why some of us have 2 or 10 ... I know I don't Got real real bad news for ya .... ya get hooked on workin tractors ...... then the vintage ones...

Update and picture dump!!!!! Got the rusted, damaged grill replaced: Painted flywheel cover and hood: And a few other parts Steering: Other things: The engine, and cover, are currently at work, for things.... Like new exhaust flanges: I'm going to weld some pipe to it to attach a stack muffler like I have on the 855. The new coil showed up today, so I'm going to get that installed tomorrow when I get to work, and hopefully it will have spark. Once that's working making the engine run should be easy enough, just need to find an air filter. And a hinge pin for the hood. Looking at the pictures of when I brought it home I apparently never had the pins.

Ideally, the axle should not move in/out more than 1/16 or 1/8" It ABSOLUTELY MUST NOT move up/down or back/forth at all. If it does, that is a sign of worn out axle bearing which will require tear-down to correct. To replace the seal, remove the HUB...using a Hub Puller...similar to this: DO NOT bang on it with a hammer of any sort. Once you bet the hub off, use a drywall screw to pierce the metal housing of the seal and pull it out taking care to NOT damage the axle at all. When replacing the seal, put a piece of tape over the KEYWAY SLOT of the axle to prevent cutting the seal...as weell as to clean up ALL rust and grime from the axle. Smear some grease on the rubber seal and slide it along the axle shaft into position, then tap in place with a PVC pipe of the same OD of the seal.