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I would say a tall chute single would be the best blower. @Achto pretty much nailed it about needing a single use tractor for a FEL. Some aspirations here for your new addiction.

It's been 1 month and 5 days since my last pictures. So I would like to present these new pictures in a special order that reminds me when we would use fake IDs to get into the live burlesque show. The tease was enjoyable as the finale. Jackie Gleason will start the show.....

I just bought this at an auction. Will pic it up next week and then it will begin: will I restore it, what cool stuff can I add that "I need??" Maybe a loader?? I picked up the plow in the background as well. Open for ideas, what I need to look at before using etc.. always wanted but never owned one of these machines!

HEIC converted to JPG

I've had several suspicious moles removed over the years, one about a year ago. The first biopsy on that one because the mole looked weird, then got called back to have another layer scraped off becsaue of that biopsy showing a high number of pre-cancerous cells. Had my yearly full body skin cancer scan today. Yup, FULL (like everywhere) body scan. Good results, nothing new. Good until next May. Moral of the story - if you have a weird lump, bump, or mole, or if an existing lump, bump, or mole has changed size or color, don't be shy, go get it checked out.

Sweet tractor. One thing to think about. A loader does not come on & off real easy and it will render most other implements unusable. (mower deck, snow blower, push blade) these can not be installed when the loader is on the tractor. Enjoy your new machine.

This "Electric Power Assist Steering" -- (EPAS) has been tackled before -- by me! I have a ...CUT? Mitsubishi (compact utility tractor?) with a FEL and had successfully added a unit off a '14 Hyundai - but as with first attempts at a Mod this complicated, I made some fatal errors, and they eventually gave out some 3-4 months ago. But it lasted something over 3 yrs and was a joy to use!! I had used roll pins at 2 points on the steering shaft and I quickly realised that the tremendous force on the front tires when striking something and the jerking on the shaft --- well, a roll pin just wouldnt hold up. You probably heard an old farmer say "never leave you thumb hooked in a steering wheel when driving!!" So a few weeks ago I ordered up a COMPLETE steer unit off a Toyota Prius - all wiring cnx, and u joints for $140. This unit is being rated highly by antique car and dune buggy folks etc. By having the added pieces that are normally attached to these units I was able to fabricate a much ... healthier? steering, using splined shafts (No roll pins!!) My steer shaft is awfully short and it was a pain to the the drive motor sandwiched between the dash and steering wheel. (If any of you are lucky enough to have longer shafts, then it simplifies things greatly) I finished the 'mock' up of every thing yesterday and when everything ckd out I rough connected the wires to the EPAS and it worked!! YEAH!! Now I have to get the fuel tank and wiring and dash, etc all back together --- and hope my calculations were correct! I took a couple pics of the mount up, I wanted to point out the bracing of the motor connecting to the tranny as tieing down the motor very stoutly is critical to hold that thing when you hit that ... whatever?, it puts tremendous force on the motor. This is not a ...weekend mod, Its pretty complicated and, at least in my case, involved a lot of labor. But the end results can be VERY rewarding, having power steering with a bucket load of dirt bout as easy as a car.

In addition to carb clean, I’d replace the fuel line, filter etc. to get residual gunk out…

I cleaned the carb three times. The surging finally stopped after the third time.

Just wanted to update on the purchase and what I've done so far. The GT-1848 with the Honda GX610 ran pretty good but was fluctuating in rpms pretty wildly at lower throttle. I pulled the fuel line, re-routed it to make it about a foot shorter, and put a new filter inline. Lubed the throttle and choke cables. With the air filter off she purrs now, and that filter is pretty nasty - new one should be here tomorrow. Going to try running it again with the old air filter to see if maybe that was the major problem. In the meantime, I will need to do some work on the steering, not sure what's broken in there but it's jumping teeth. Want to clean it up but won't have time for about a month. The 416-8 I bought in this deal is siezed, as far as I can tell quickly. Not sure what I'll be doing with that. Working on refurbishing one of the two 48" decks, but I need some parts (spindle shaft and a couple of pulleys). Got the major parts repainted while I'm waiting. That's a few weeks down the road also. I'll probably be selling some parts later this summer, most likely starting with the stuff I can ship easily. I also have a lead on a parts tractor that is basically a frame with an Eaton 1100 trans, steering, front axle and wheels, and rear wheels, for maybe around $100. Might be worth it, maybe better if I can get it for $50.

701 Ranger (modified) 867 Bronco 14 310-8 520-H (2) 523-H custom Several chassis/tranny/ parts piles that don't count as full tractors.

Welcome. This post has the result of a collaboration of members and their ideas of what to do when starting on an new-to-you machine. The post has the list and links to Word and PDF versions of the document in the Files.

@BrotherTobias plan on a tank valve replacement ,https://www.ebay.com/itm/172159421400?c41348861725295&rlsatarget=pla- , this only for reference , if you can get it locally , support them. another detail on installation , and cleaning is to use DIELECTRIC GREASE on the grommet and valve , installation, makes it much easier , and its made for rubber / plastic fitting, also add a first filter close to tank , and another close to carb . that has worked for me with zero debris in carb bowls . might even consider adding a vertical fuel check valve . to hold fuel charge , for quicker starts , look up EVIL ENERGY 5/16 aluminum check valve . install VERTICALLY before carb . they work , just some ideas . pete

Oddly enough, a JD painted red is an improvement...

16 best I can remember, down to half that now. No regrets. I've enjoyed them all.

Sounds like you have gotten some good suggestions, please let us know how you make out on this.

This list will give you the attachments that are a direct fit for your 416-8. With some modification other implements can be adapted also.

Seems to me that if it smells like oil with a hint of ATF then someone changed it to engine oil at some point in the past without doing a proper drain/flush/empty etc. I s'pose I'd get regular oil inexpensive 10W30 and a Wix or Napa filter. Baldwin is also good. IMHO don't use fram. You'll definitely want to clean that transmission cooling fin set some. Also... Investigate what is hitting the cooling fan edge and rectify that. Check the fan for cracks.

Clean it up, change oil and filters for the engine and gear lube in the transmission, lube everything that has a grease zerk. Then you can start picking it over. Welcome to the sickness!

Yes. Buy another one…

And so it begins....

is it treatable ? Don't even have it yet and found myself looking at a sparkling 520 package .. if I was restoring the house ??????

@WHX??… slick move… looks like something I would do ! Posting those pics of your awesome Wheel Horses to “ inspire” @S416-8… Oh, and to !!!! @S416-8 Thats a nice machine you have there… I have thoroughly enjoyed my membership at the Redsquare… you will be glad you came !

Did some rearranging in the outdoor workshop this evening. Got the temp set of front wheels and tires on the Cinnamon Horse C160 just to hold it off the ground til I get the permanent set tubed. I got one of those done with the help of Meeha/Mirror. @Pullstart The other one has a torn tube thanks to some 🐻 not watching the lever bar while installing the tire top bead. Oh well. I'll order more....

I have these very similar BF Goodrich Silvertowns 6-12 that I'll be using. They are also pretty nice but not quite as detailed a tread. Harder rubber than snow tires, IMHO.

Just a few pics of the original and converted reels, also my temporary fencing trolley, which found a use for a ‘green’ tractor suitcase weight. Oh, and sneaking into the photos, one of my B.C.S. Machines, 16hp Briggs Vee twin, 30” mulching deck. This thing will cut down virtually anything, even small saplings. My other one has a 4” wood chipper attachment mounted to it.

It does not have an automatic choke. The carburetor should be removed and cleaned properly. Check that the welch plug just above the idle mixture screw is in place.

@davem1111 , having done all my tanks , for valves and grommets , the grease makes for a very easy slide in fit , regularly used super lube as a millwright , in food grade fitting work . use a large fuel filter in rear seat frame area , and another small size forward before carb and check valve , also used fuel rated clear vinyl hose , dark green squeeze clamps . have lots of hours on this set up , zero leaks , visible fuel flow . anything I suggest , I am currently using , so I know it works consistently, regularly use my 3 horses , they all run and are set up the same way . reliable running , pete

Some argue that snow load dictates what style blower you’d appreciate the most. Single stage tall shoot or two stage… either way I believe if you keep ‘em loaded up with snow they perform best!

The fan screen screws usually rot off causing the screen to whack the fan. Also the fan metal is super thin and cracks easy. Good straight fans are hard to come by.

It is fast enough to scare me. Besides, I prefer getting air under the front tires than going fast. Since I did not install a billet rod, the 8 hp Predator will likely fail with high RPMs. Picture of me doing a wheel stand on another tractor. Cheers

Picked up a c165 on my travels today.

Common issue on Onan engines. Carb cleaning may help. On mine, putting some silicone on the seam of the two piece intake manifold cured the surging. You don't need a bead, just a thin film smeared on the seam with your finger. If adding some choke on yours calms down the surge after cleaning the carb- then the engine is sucking too much air at or around the intake.

wow

Word of warning they always do look better in pics but if the price is right..... Yes you can.... now you know why some of us have 2 or 10 ... I know I don't Got real real bad news for ya .... ya get hooked on workin tractors ...... then the vintage ones...

He’s been infected !

Thanks everyone.. my pic up day changed to next week. It does run and drive but I bought this sight unseen based on all the pics.. I'll look for the blower thanks.. Can I call foul on the pics.. now I want 2 one with the loader and another for everything else...

Just had a basal cell removed today, good advice! Keep an eye on things that you can. Feels like i got stabbed in the back but glad it's gone.

I can't agree with you more, my Bride has to get checked once a year. She has been cancer free for fourteen years. Never get over or forget the feeling when you hear the C. Word as a diagnosis. Good advice, glad you had a good outcome.

Ideally, the axle should not move in/out more than 1/16 or 1/8" It ABSOLUTELY MUST NOT move up/down or back/forth at all. If it does, that is a sign of worn out axle bearing which will require tear-down to correct. To replace the seal, remove the HUB...using a Hub Puller...similar to this: DO NOT bang on it with a hammer of any sort. Once you bet the hub off, use a drywall screw to pierce the metal housing of the seal and pull it out taking care to NOT damage the axle at all. When replacing the seal, put a piece of tape over the KEYWAY SLOT of the axle to prevent cutting the seal...as weell as to clean up ALL rust and grime from the axle. Smear some grease on the rubber seal and slide it along the axle shaft into position, then tap in place with a PVC pipe of the same OD of the seal.

Ohhh yes, That slipped my mind. Thank you

My 1075 Wheel-A-Matic. Big block, short frame, tall stack, baby moons, custom.

When you get a minute or six, pop the head off and the engine tins and see why it's seized. Not overly likely but it is legitimately possible it's an easy fix. Could be something ridiculous like a mouse nest. I've actually had it happen to me. You'll have no problem at all parting that one out if that's the way you decide to go. If you were closer I'd be after those rear wheels and tires. That 8-speed transmission has some value too. Do you know what series that is? What front axle it has? If that's a 520 with a forward sweep the front axle and steering is worth three times the asking price.

Clean it good with brake cleaner. Dry it off good. Then spray carb cleaner on it. Go have a cup of coffee. If there is a crack there the carb cleaner will expose it so it's easy to see in about 10 minutes. Could even be a pin hole in the casting.

Remember that the definition of a snow tire has changed a little bit over the last 60 years and also that those tires are aged which rubber harder.

I went to a local Home & Auto store with my father-in-Law for his 702 back in the 1980's - they were on sale at the end of winter and marketed as a small car snow tire.

If the Bendix drive is dirty, the linear motion is sluggish, allowing the starter to spin with the drive only partially engaged. Then bad things happen...

Don't know where in NY you are but there is a tall shoot blower for sale in Rochester on FB MP

These are sweet machines! I'll add: Take a look at all the belts, and make sure your rubber shifter boot is good. If it's not and the tractor has been sitting outside, it will likely have water in the transmission oil. Dipstick under the seat... milky gear oil not good. I have a 1989 416-8 up on blocks with the trans off right now because of this... Make sure your deck spindles aren't wobbly. Oh, and is the steering column tight and solid? I have dreams of loaders, tillers, and maybe snowblowers (but I have a gravel driveway...). I have the same front blade. Sure comes in handy.

Thank you to all once again for all the info and help ,and A Special BIG Thanks to Squonk for getting me the part I needed .