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Sup guys! Where y'all been? I thought I'd drop in and say HEY! I was over at Van Bennetts house a couple weeks go and he gave me this C125. It's my first black hood. She's a smoker, but still alive. I've never had a shaker plate motor before so I need to look Into whats needed for new mounts and such. My son went with me and had a blast. I think he likes tractors more than I do! Van will be at show this year! The top 3 questions I get at the big show are: 1. How the heck are ya? 2. Where is/how is Van? 3. Have you seen Jay?

Bought this 1949 C from my grandparents south of Kansas City last summer. Finally got around to going to pick it up last week. Took the week off and made a vacation of it. Left Tuesday to go pick up the tractor, stopped by my old buddy Steve's along the way and picked up two more Maytag engines. Spent Tuesday and Wednesday at Grandma's house, then left early Thursday morning headed for Pawnee OK for the 55th annual Steam and Gas Engine Show, where we spent the remainder of the weekend before heading home yesterday. Really enjoyed the show, got to see some old friends and meet some new ones as well, met up with our very own @oliver2-44at the show Friday, was very nice to meet him and his wife. Without further babbling here is the tractor, it's been repainted once and someone put the wrong decals on, but it is in fact a C not a Super C

just asking , most of my replies involve something that I changed or was testing a previous problem area . like to do that , turn something from a regular problem to a reliable area . could be wiring or mechanical function . like to make anything work easier , often just detailing function , shows you the way . like plow quadrant steering function , improving grounding .repetitive failure is your greatest opportunity , to correct its fault , pete

Greetings. About 2 years ago I bought my first C160. It is an 8 speed and came with a roto tiller and the small grass cutting deck. This was the machine i cut my teeth on so to speak. I quickly learned this model was also made with a hydro static drive with a hydraulic lift. This seemed like the holy grail to own to me. So i kept one eye open for an Auto. A few came up, but most were priced sky high. Too much for this old guy. But then it happened. I was watching one for sale last year the guy wanted 2 grand for it. It was just too far of a reach for me to spend on an older tractor. Regardless of the value. Then one day last fall, the listing disappeared. I assumed it sold. Awe shucks. But... it showed up again in the listings a few days ago. Turns out he had cancelled the listing for the winter. However the big difference was the price.... he had dropped price. Not just a little either.... he went from 2000 down to 800. And that was Canadian so 800 is like 600 USD. He said he was tired of looking at it. Needless to say I snapped it up immediately!!! Some of you have already seen this unit as I asked for some advice about connecting my tiller. Thanks to those who helped. You got me pointed in the right directions and i have some bits and pieces on order from Lowell. So although it looks pretty, it needed some work to make it run well. Points, condenser, plug went in right away. Then an ignition switch. Sadly it had an amazon carb on it that was pure junk and I replaced it with an original one that works well. I also replaced the front plastic roller wheel on the mower deck as the one they put on was way too small and the deck was catching the ground. So it start well, runs well and cuts the grass well. However there is lots more service work to come. So the big question is the hydro transmission. How well do they stand up? Do they have any weak points I should know about? If there anything I can do now to prevent a failure? Are they expensive to rebuild? 1977 C160 Auto Model # 1.6KS02 Just tryin' to stay ahead of the curve Cheers!

WANTED: A good woman that loves and owns Wheel Horse machines for a relationship, possibly marriage. Send photos of the Wheel Horses.

He made a big Wheel Horse investment, which resulted in spousal resentment. After thinking it through, He knew what to do and geared up for a spousal divestment!

Got started on the front end of the new project. Bored the axle pivot hole out to 0.750" and drilled and tapped for grease zerks. Drilled and tapped an axle pivot pin. I like to bolt the pin in and put a little squeeze on the axle to help minimize any wobble.

Green grease! Green grease! Stop that noise & make it cease!! I have switched from the once a week applied Lucas Red & Tacky to Pete's favorite, the Green Grease on the Milling machine spur gears of the Power Table Feed. No more grease slung off onto the guard - regrease it once a month now - no more gear whine. Heim joints on the 48" plow angling rod ends worked fine this winter - no issues or signs of wear... Bill

Yesterday I took the new, to me, trailer tailgate frame to a mate of mine who was a sheet metal worker. Got that welded up then called at the local smithy for a piece of galvanised plate. This morning I got the frame painted and by this afternoon it was ready to assemble. Now fitted.

I use to buy a Stens chrome gas cap as a replacement for my early aluminum gas tanks. However, I found it difficult to find one recently. So I ordered this one and it fits nice and tight. A little smaller diameter but works fine. I thought I would post this in case you are looking for one for your tractor.

LOL you guys are cracking me up! This guy didn't have it THAT bad... he had a brand new 4wd Deere and a shed full of implements, a museum quality C5 Z06 on the lift, and a mint condition 90's Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. I commented on how it was an interesting vehicle to restore and he was like I didn't restore it, just kept up on the maintenance and mothballed it over winter. I knew right then I made the right choice to rent a U-Haul before going over there. These 312's had the oil changed every 25hrs without fail, and he used the correct weight depending on the season (it's all in the logbook).

A Haiku Wheel Horses are red Not all spouses understand Teach her to paint red

the guy i bought both my WH from was VERY sad to see them go... he bought one new in 1988 and the other used in the mid 90's and put a couple thousand hours between the 2. He kept fanatical records of every part and service he ever did, he obviously loved them a lot. He was upgrading to a JD SCUT and his wife made him sell the Horses. he asked me to, and i kept in touch with him for the better part of 3 years, sending updates and pictures of fixes/mods/and work i was doing with them. i felt he gave me a decent deal, and i wanted him to know they were going to a good home. that's the best we could hope for really when the day comes to thin the herd...

1) i wish i would have taken pictures, but on both my 312-8's the frame rail ends where the seat and rear fender tins bolt on were broken or cracked. i fixed this by cutting them short and welding on bed frame iron which i know isn't the best but it's more than adequate for this and way thicker than what was there. i can only imagine it happened because i'm 250lbs and also i get on and off the tractor from the right side 90% of the time and put a lot more stress on that side. 2) i boxed in the steering shaft bushing with some steel bar because it was sloppy AF and i couldn't for the life of me get the roll pin out of the steering wheel to do it right and replace the bushings. i still have 2 NIB bronze steering bushings, but the steering is staying tight. 3) i got rid of the sloppy bar and bushing setup for the hood and just used some bolts and nylock nuts to hold it down. hood is SUPER steady now and it used to rock around visibly as I mowed. 4) not really an improvement but more of a preference: i don't use any cotter pins anymore... i use different size "R" clips for all my retention points so it truly is a tool free process to change decks/blower/remove belt from PTO etc.

I haven't worked on my Wheel Horse yet so I can't say for that project. However with my Murray to IH 1568 I apply the concept of 'think about it, try and try again' regurarly.. To be honest it isn't always fun to learn through faillure but that's kinda how life works. Mark

I notice the thread on engines, but didn't want to bust in as these are not quite the same. Just below my workshop is where we keep the main engines. Thought you guys might enjoy a look. They are 2 decks high and somewhere in the region of 8000hp each - we have four of them.

Brace yourself.. bracing incoming. Made several braces to beef up everything and connect the exsisting frame to the subframe for the 3 point hitch. The 'tower' for the toplink gets bolted to a plate which also doubles as the seat mounting base. This plate connects to a u- channel which bolts to both the frame and the steering column. Should be okay-sturdy

Back in the '80s in high school I took several years of electricity class. That's where I began to understand that DC systems NEED proper ground and great connections or there is no system. I've built modified or repaired at least a half a dozen tractor wiring setups so far and I like to add extra grounds wherever it's practical, and then some. Add an extra washer here and there. Using the heim joints on the steering for quite a while now and I'll be doing that next winter on my plow controls as well.

Love the tractor James, but LOVE that square body Chevy!

My 856 project just got a little brighter. The holes were already in the hood. At one time it must of had lights on it. So I found these for 13 bucks so .......... there they are. Going to install new choke and throttle cables later today. Still have no idea if it's going to run or not but I have faith. Lol I also have another engine in the garage just in case !

Probably require slight frame notch and front axle upgrades to use them on a Horse

I did that a couple of times and found that it attracted dirt and didn't improve steering effort. You should grease the support at the fitting . The biggest thing you can do to improve your steering is to place added shim washers (parts 30 and 31) between the steening support (part 22) and the cotter key on the steering shaft to draw the steering gear (25) closer to the fan gear (33). If there is too much slop there the gear teeth will tend to bind. The shims go behind the steering support,

My normally shiniest and newest machine got dirty today! Father-in-law is not well so I hauled it over to his place to mow his yard.. or should I say sandpit . He’s not big into his lawn and it’s more weeds and sand than it is grass. The 315-8 got a well deserved bath when I got back home

I'd either get a VERY good and mutually agreeable explanation or I'd be divesting the spouse.

My wife and I took a tri in the RV and went to the Pawnee show and several other Ok state Parks. There were nine steam tractors and lots of other hood show tractors. Here’s some travel And steam show pics. Ray Roberts lake about an hour above Fort Worth I spent some time in the steam yard every morning as they fired up @Achto Yhey were great at showing me things and answering my many questions Nighttime Spark Show. I learned they put a thick blanket of sawdust from the sawmill on s hot fire and let simmer for about 20 minutes. Then put a heavy load on the belt pulley and open up the fire door. Lots of airflow to blow the glowing sawdust out the stack Lots of great old steam tractors 1/8 size operational steam tractor @ClassicTractorProfessor International C Interesting Massey Harris 4 wheel drive These JD MY crawlers are a favorite of mine Great Doodlebug My wife’s favorite washer with attachment options Stationary Steam engine designed by a fellow Texan 16”dia piston for a vertical hit and miss stationary engine they are rebuilding Its cylinder 1st Huber tractor I’ve seen Waterfall at Natural Falls State Park Took my wife to Pahusks Pioneer Woman’s Store and this restored Dodge Power Wagon was out front @ebinmaine You would love it My wife ready to cook something up at the Pioneer Woman’s Lodge where she does her HGTV show Sign says it all Buffalo at the 40,000 Acre Tall Grass Preserve

If it meant that much to my spouse that she would insist I divest the tractors, I'd accept it with regret.

I like it. Even better if you can use partially threaded bolts to keep the smooth part at the pivot point.

I am interested in this as well. Close call with some sort of virus or other got me thinking. I look at my wife's nephew who i helped with a rental house, and we can count on each other when we cannot do stuff on our own. he is much more organized than I , and would be a good caretaker. Just today, we became co-owners of a sweet looking ford F250 from 1991, Might be a longer restoration getting the engine sorted, but the rest of the truck is a time capsule I would trust him to sell off the horde and return part of it to my wife. We are helping out each other with old sporting goods in short supply by trading back and forth items to make stuff useable. We share a hobby in old motorcycles that have more than tripled in price in maybe 8 years, I need him to experience a wheel horse just to see how great they are..So maybe a ten or 12 hP with a 42" SD needs to find its way to his house.

Since I don't have a welder at home I took me a few weeks to find a guy to accomplish the next phase. I found a nice welder a older man about in his 70's that was more than happy to weld this up and took a break from watching a baseball game in his shop. I think the old timer did a outstanding job. Now I have a brinly hitch on here that can be used on any brand tractor.

I'm not usually a big fan of a foot controlled hydro. But I much prefer them on a loader tractor.

FWIW, I never operated an FEL but my inclination, knowing how I work other equipment, would be toward hydro with foot pedal motion control to free my hands for steering and bucket controls.

I like grease. Where you at greasy Pete? @peter lena

The mid 70s Transmissions are a Sundstrand. General consensus is they are excellent when maintained. Change the oil and filter. Install a magnetic drain plug to catch fine metal filings. Watch for leaks around the hydraulic cylinder and valve. Keep an eye on the hoses. Wheelhorse Parts and More sells kits and hoses, both. Look at the drive engagement mechanism to check for wear between all the components. They are rebuildable. @daveoman1966 has posted info about that. Very nice looking tractor!

Just finished getting everything cleaned up and put away from our trip last week...we left the house Tuesday with 5 engines on the truck (the International LB and 5 Maytags)...came home Sunday with 10 engines and a tractor. Picked up the two twins from Steve on our way out of town, then we picked up 3 more Maytags at the show. Tasha bought a short frame shallow tank 92 and another hanging 72 with the Wico mag, and I bought another short frame deep tank 92. Then today I scored a steal of a deal on another washer...$20 on an online auction...was bidding on two more engines as well, but I backed off when I found out Steve was bidding on them as well.

Finally got a good chunk of parts for the C160 painted. First time using a hvlp gun. I used irongard case ih 2150 paint. I think it turned out pretty good. Couple more weeks and I’ll post the end results

Just finished mowing (308-8 with a 36” RD)

Here are the tillers sold back in the day for the C-125. This will give you an idea of what is required and you are not limited to these models. The 1993-2007 model 79370 will also fit.

You need to make you a calendar reservation for @JCM Jim's in September. That machine sure would be an excellent piece to bring.... Right down the road from ya!

Certainly all the tractors we have are foot controlled. I imagine using the 8 would get tedious fast. I guess the hydro wouldn't take any benefit from the diesels torque, but the briggs engine is toast on that one so it's the logical donor machine.

Your tractor, your blade, your choice. But, the official Red Square forum answer will be RED.

We just got it home. After a near disaster with a bumper pull attachment, we spent the money and had it towed to get it inspected for title at a certified DOT facility. It had its first wash in ten years and the lichen came off the hood pretty well. we took the bed liner off , expecting rust, but the paint was fresh as a daisy. i got pictures from my cell phone, but they don't like my computer. Will get some with the sony camera..this truck is so solid, so nice, and i am gonna share repair costs and ownership with my young friend. he has had five tours from the abandoned country and deserves it. My friend helped me pull a well pump and replace it and later i helped him blow his pump clean with compressed air. We work well together with our individual strengths ,so it should work out When we started cleaning it off and got underneath looking for rot, he told me that now he sees what i first saw in this truck. Its a 31 year old time capsule that led a pampered life and did not sit too long to be brought back. Hopefully this is the start of a resto thread, but it could be one on the pace of Colossus. Sorry, eric

Here’s a search for just C-160 Auto https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=c-160 auto&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy I didn’t find a 1977 C-160 Auto in the manuals per say, here is everything I found for the year. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=1977 c-160&type=downloads_file&page=1&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy

@Fishroe think its a trade off , lubrication is vital to its function , yet its trapped in the grass debris area . you would have to regularly clean that area out to help things out . for me the lubricant wins , regularly check out mechanical function of everything @Ed Kennell i,m with you and others on grease . especially in the fan gear cavities, can easily wipe down excess . like to lubricate that area , while its hanging free . thats when its most effective . always greasy , pete

well guys lets put our head together and figure out what model this horse is as I thought I got a good deal for it even if I had to drive 207 miles from home with the high price gas which is really sad but anyways according to the serial number it is a model 1045-0 with the solid state ignition if I am correct it has a 8 horse motor as my thoughts were to replace the 10 horse as I still can't get it start ;the motor did over with a shot of gas in the carb but the seller did mention that the carb might have to rebuilt which is no big thing ;it came with 2 decks but one has rot spots on it and the pullies do turn the other deck well the pullies seem to be lock up as they will not turn froze I should say yep it needs a seat but again that happens the tires seem to be fine as no cracks and the hub caps will need to be cleaned if that is possible as one is really rusted but hub caps really don't make these old horse run any faster just makes them pretty ' another question is where is the screw or valve that will allow this to move as I can't find one ;I might had over did myself for 150,00 but at first they wanted 300,00 like most we all know that at times they need to be tinkered with ;so if any one knows the year and about the valve that will allow it to roll I sure would appreciate it and yes for sure that battery box has to go

Thats a Tecumseh on that tractor.

Yep this is just the first coat, 2 more to go. It is so much nicer than rattle cans.

wearing OSHA approved flip flops of course!!!

Its mine!! Finally Super excited!

Except maybe a Kohler 16 at idle. I happen to like the sound of a Briggs boxer twin at idle, but I'm weird.😁