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Came across this Wheel Horse on the local craigslist. A Wheel Horse WB 2000. Never seen this before. a brush mower using a 38 RD deck. Looks original to me. Maybe another Belgium special? Bit to expensive (1250$) for me or I would have bought it.

My name is David. Thanks for letting me join. I have 28 wheel horse tractors and lots of attachments.

Well I’ve been working on this for a while. Started off as a dented, rusted basket case. I’ve really only just doctored it up as I’ve gone along. I’d like to start restoring it eventually. But first I need to replace a few bad parts, like the rusted exhaust and cracked headlights bezels. Im currently working on a deal to get most of those parts, including a front weight bar attachment. still a long way from what it was.

First, it was not hard to get the tractors in the 10' box truck. I pulled the deck from the Work Horse, and pushed it up the ramps, then turned it sideways. Slid the deck under it. Then pushed the 416-8 up the ramps, and had about a foot to spare at the back.

Had the 1067 in the shop for some repair & upkeep. This was broken BR (before resto). I welded it but it cracked again. Made a plate to bolt over it & hopefully cures the problem. Put a new @76c12091520h seat on it. Yep It needed spacers too @Achto

And CUB too! must have been a trend (or like I say a good idea at the time) this is one way I have replaced those rubber mounts. 1/2" bar stock 3" long x 1 1/2" wide. a little work to drill and tap but works good.

If you wish to add Tail, Brake , and Signal lights I would suggest picking out some dual filament trailer lights. There are many different sizes & styles, just pick out something that you like. Can be incandescent or LED. For head lights I would pick out a small driving light that you like the looks of. I picked out these driving lights for one of my tractors. They really light the way. For batteries, I just run the U1 EverStarts from WalMart.

just got back from a goodie search , advance auto parts has all the lucas greases in stock , in slide tube form, x-tra heavy duty , red / tacky , and marine grade . 572 flash point ! as well as small tubs . they also have the large eye crimp able battery cable size cable end , for engine grounding . on their electrical fitting board . related wire hook up options . worth a look . stay grounded , pete

A work in progress, should be completed later today. A 6 inch length of DOM, slots milled into both ends, cut in half I'll have a pair, old 1/2" drive socket welded onto the ends then my cordless impact goes to work. My buddy Nick in Alberta has 3,000 tanks he's collected over the years, now at 86 years old finding it difficult to deal with them. Time to help an old friend out.

Finished off the tins on my 856 project. Decided not to repaint it. My good friend helped me add a little personal touch to it. Still working on getting it running. This was the tractor I pulled out of the weeds after sitting in them for decades. It will get there, slowly but surely.

Deck from the GT needs some work. Haven't really looked at the other one yet.

I took a car battery and some starting fluid with me. The 18 horse Honda engine fired rather nicely. I think had there been gas in the tank I could have driven it into the trailer, but didn't bother. I was actually worred about the seller having second thoughts if it ran that good.... They didn't post a picture of this side of the Work Horse, which is the most disturbing thing I found. He said it had been retrofitted with this engine a few years ago, and I guess the muffler wouldn't fit so they cut into the hood:

After the demise of my Land Rover Discovery I replaced it with a Hyundai Santa Fee. Unfortunately the Santa Fee hasn't got the towing capacity of the Disco. Just 2 ton against the Disco's 3-1/2. So my 12ft x 6ft twin axle trailer went to live at a friends farm. At the weekend I purchased a second hand single axle trailer. 8ft x 4ft I can only carry one tractor instead of four now, but that's not a problem. Having to cut down on the shows with the way things are. It'll be also handy on my trips to my mates in Scotland for hauling logs home. I intend to remove the ramp and replace with a tailgate. Less drag and I have the light weight ramps I used with the 12 x 6 trailer.

For starters I picked these 2 up today. Ones an early 2000s 314-8 the other is a 1965 1075. Only reason I got the 1075 is so I could get that nice rusty mid mount blade for my no name 8.

The rusty one looks to be a late 60’s model such as a Commando 8. The newer one has hydraulic lift and will be an Eaton 1100. One steering column lever is the direction control and the other is for the hydraulic up/down.

You keep pushing that. You'll end up with a couple of "Trina Juniors" on your hands!

They do a fair bit, the girls replaced throttle cables the other day and helped bleed all the brakes today. Katie is currently replacing the indicator relay by herself, bike in bits everywhere!

Seems like if you're old enough to ride it you ought to be old enough to learn how to fix its brakes!

I use this also....Amazon drops it right off at my house 1 day after I call. 16.99 1 Gallon

Interstate Batteries in all of my equipment......Cars, Trucks, Tractors...….. Never an issue....they stay on a GOOD battery tender during times of dormancy JM2C John

Words of wisdom there - once a lead / acid battery is fully discharged, it starts to sulfate & shed the lead on the cell plates and that material falls into the cavity below the plates. Once 2 plates are bridged they are done for....

@WHX?? very nice job on that ! personally I think that plate was never square and flat , for fit , that type of crack indicates a horizontal working line stress crack. on the other hand its been doing the job for a very long time. nice job , pete

Oh yes, I did very well. It was just a bit disheartening to see what someone did to this hood, but they did keep the tractor in service. Although sadly, proper maintenance could have possibly avoided at least some of the bad stuff here. I'm thinking either dual stacks or a custom header into one stack would look good on this engine. Not much of a welder here so I don't think I'd attempt to make something like that myself, but we'll see. Funny (? ) - the engine moves a little when engaging the PTO, so I don't think it's mounted well either. I may not have much time to mess with it till the weekend, but I think I'll see if I can feed it some clean gas and see how well it runs. I'm going to clean up the Ags from the 416 and put them on my "good" 416-8 as soon as I get the trans painted and re-installed on it. Also the seat. Both of these seats are in much better shape than the one I have on that one. On the 416 I just got, it looks like some of the wiring has been messed with and the engine looks a bit rough, so I'll need to check that one out before trying to run it. Lower on the priority list at the moment... All in all, I am pretty happy with my haul.

I would have bought these in a heartbeat, and I've been downsizing for years. The 416 alone is worth more than you paid for it. And don't sweat the Workhorse hood. Easily replaced, and the muffler can be relocated or replaced with something smaller than a diesel tractor trailer uses... I say you did very well!

That looks like a fatigue crack. Was your weld repair a weld and grind smooth type of repair? In this case, the weld left a stress riser that eventually grew into another fatigue crack. If you make another similar weld repair, go over the weld with a pneumatic needle de-scaler. The de-scaler will leave a layer of compressed metal along the repair, which will help prevent another crack from forming. Then again, your plate repair is effective as well. Nicely done, too. The best repair is quite often the one that matches the resources and tools at hand.

800 Special restomod complete build sheet with . Pile of parts: I planned to replace the transmission pulley on the Peerless 1400 with a smaller pulley off of a Unidrive, but the pulley would not come off without removing the transmission from the frame, as demonstrated here: Darn thing wouldn't come off without dropping the transmission. Oh well... I had fun with disassembly anyway... LET THE DISASSEMBLY BEGIN!!! Beginning with pulling hubs, (left hub was loose, right hub was pretty... siezed...). Lot's of PB blaster, didn't break any bolts... except for the ones I wanted to break... Getting ready to remove the transmission here (u-bolts and all linkages are disconnected): Transmission is out!!! Pulley size comparison (big pulley will now be put on the engine as it is actually in pretty fine shape): New pulley put on: Got some "witches-brew" started for the nuts and bolts... Parts ready for sanding and cleaning: 1 word: disgusting. Stupid bolts on the seat wouldn't come out... so I just ended up breaking them. I didn't plan on re-using the seat anyway... HellHorse is just sitting their in shock while his brother gets naked Beginning to primer the parts: I also drained the transmission fluid before painting the transmission. YUCK... Paint selection: PAINTING!!! Rims took like 12 coats a piece of primer... Ordered parts: Beginning to reassemble: Gift of a seat: Throttle pedal: 4 Stens needle bearings... And 4 sweet valve stems... Rear tires (and turkey): CORRECT lug bolt size is 7/16-20 Finished tractor: NOW on to the engine build sheet: Tillotson 212R - 70mm Reinforced Tillotson Block (New to the 212R) - Tillotson JT-207 Head(same as 196R) Modified for bigger valves - 27mm Intake Valve - 25mm Exhaust Valve - PK-3A (New to the 212R) - Hi-Flow Stock Airbox and Exhaust - Modified governor - New! 212R Race Cam - 70mm Bore - Flat Top piston (More Compression than any other stock 212 or 196) Tillotson 212r re-assembly torque specs: Forged Connecting rod (stock): 150 inch lbs Side cover bolts: 204 inch lbs Head bolts: 204 inch lbs Rocker studs: 204 inch lbs (NOT rocker arm adjusters!) Rocker adjuster nuts: 94 inch lbs Flywheel nut: 54 foot lbs Valve lash (for intake AND exhaust valves): .003 Parts Stripping it down... governor and removal... Sweet bearings... Old valve springs New valve springs... AUTOMOTIVE retainers for 8,000+ rpm Old v. new... Can get wrist ping out without removing piston.. ZERO DECK... Forged rod with babbit bearings installed: Very important, while torquing rod to 150 inch pounds... going up from 15 inch pounds, in 15 pound increments ONLY!!!! Then back it back down to 70 inch pounds, and go back up to 150 inch pounds in 15 pound increments. Rod installation complete. Cam installed, valve lash set: Crankcase cover and flywheel on Fabricated parts: AND zee home-made header pipe... Finished product... Don

Takes a steady hand and some good brushes. Now if I can only get it to run !!! If not, I will have some cool yard art !!

Von Dutch would approve.

I have never used it. Most of the tractors I do I just clean them well and rub everything down with boiled linseed oil. Some I might touch up some paint but rarely paint the whole tractor. This Lambert is the only tractor that I painted the whole thing. Most all of the others I get away with just painting the rims and deck, touching up the rest.

An excellent point. Mine had it and lived it and so, of course, I learned it. (There are some moving family stories passed down of coping during the depression.) To counter this, at my smart wife's strong suggestion, we create a hobby budget for each of us that we know we can afford and encourage each other to spend it all every year. No extra points awarded for not spending it. As for the collecting? Well, that's a work in progress. I've been sticking to my promise to unload something every week--donate, sell, recycle, or trash--or put something from the "inventory" into active use. Plus I'm getting better at walking away from "maybe I'll find a use for this" stuff.

Good intention, bad implementation yup, Jacobsen who build the 1250 - 1650 for ford LGT125 - LGT165 used the same style rubber mounts. 1977-1980 so Wheel horse stole that idea Just sold my 1250 (12hp Kohler) today: You can see the two bushings just above the rear wheel

Regarding the comments on parents and grand parents keeping everything - were they children of the depression? Many who grew up in those times got infused with the 'keep everything 'cause you will need it someday' habit.

Had to squeeze it into the Oranjerie as a present for doing such a good job. I hand mowed the lawn the other day and it took hours. 40 year old machine did it in 15 minutes - just a rough job though to check everything is working.

Find the parts numbers at the Toro site and then Google the number to find the best supplier.

Cody Welcome - there are manuals you can download here for free - I took a look at the 1968 Raider 9 Electrical diagram and noticed that is has a 10 Amp charging system (better than the 3 amp of earlier started/generator versions) and NO starter solenoid. That means ALL the current to start goes thru the ignition switch. Since you are doing a rewire anyway, you may wish to add in a solenoid. As for the battery - since you plan on adding lights - try to find one with more than 350 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). They are available in the U1 or U1-R size - Tractor Supply may have what you need. Whichever battery you buy, and wherever you buy it, check the sticker on it FIRST before you purchase it for the Date of Manufacture. It makes no sense to buy a new battery that has a 90 Warranty if it is already over a year old from sitting on a shelf.... Bill

Yes, that is true. The newer radial arm saws were made of lightweight materials and would never hold their adjustments like the older heavy duty saws. I bought a set of shaper heads for the radial arm saw and found that it was impossible to get a good cut with them, put them in a friend's table saw and they worked great. Versatile, yes; quality tool, not so much! The "ripping a sheet of plywood" segment of the video is the greatest exception to the rule, unsafe at any speed!

Last day home before heading back to sea. Had to strip seized front brake on daughters Honda XL125. Got it apart, pistons out and cleaned up, new seals and back onto the bike. Worst brakes I have ever had to bleed, takes forever. Best way is to get as much air out as possible then strap the lever to the bar and walk away. After an hour or two it's bled any remaining air without further effort on my part Now the girls can get back out tearing up the fields!

Yup, have quite a few of them. My Dad was a mason ...he just called them line blocks.

The guy, Curtis, said he's having a biopsy in a few days and is hopeful. I told him he had people here who had him in their thoughts and prayers, and he smiled and said Thank You. Very nice guy. He used to be a tool & die machinist, and had a whole metal working shop that he was starting to sell off. I bought a few other things from him, but 1) didn't have much more room in the truck, 2) don't have that much room in my garage, and 3) my wife wants to see "downsizing", not "upsizing", at least in things that I will rarely or never use in the next few years. I'll talk about the tractors in the next post....

Aww, thanks Dan! The FEL tractor isn’t bad either!

I built the PF Engineering hoe. It's a perfect size for a garden tractor. Not really much good for doing daily commercial work but it does what I needed to do. It was built to dig 4-5 ft deep by about 100ft long trench for doing the power to the house underground. It did a pretty good job and it's not simple easy digging sand here in New England. Luckily no big boulders were in the path. The main thing I'd do different is to angle the stabilizer arms back 45 degrees. Straight off the sides took a pretty good beating from the leverage and I had to redo them. Something else would be joystick controls.

No , the ole man kept every thing . we found the following : Tailpipe full of holes from a 1973 GMC 3/4 ton. 4 rims from a 1953 Chrysler . 1 hub cap from my brother's 1960 Impala , 2 hubcaps from my 1963 Impala. 3 or 4 radios from Cheby's , a lot of adult beverage bottles. and a 50 lb box full of bent double headed nails. Huge quantities of used fan belts , a couple of fans off of auto engines. the list goes on and on. Took 4 pickups to haul stuff to the dump ( each truck made more than 1 load. This was the adventure in 1991 .Fast forward to about 2012 my mother had continued loading the place up. She had filled up a 3 drawer kitchen cabinet in the garage with plastic lids from plastic containers ( no bottoms were found) . We filled up a roll off dumpster . I wonder where my pack rat problems comes from????

Shaker plate engine mounts.......One of Wheel Horses bad ideas.

Last week while mowing the green, front, right engine to shaker plate bolt broke on the C125. Today I finally got to work on it. Getting the mounting bar off to remove the broken piece of bolt was a bit of work. First bonnet/hood off. No way to get a socket/spanner the the bolts holding the bar. So off with the front axle mounting. Eased up the shaker plate and inserted a small piece of wood 'twix it and chassis/frame. Then undid the bar and removed it. The broken piece was then drilled out from the under side. The drill bit actually screwed it out. Just a case of putting it all back together after that.

I recently bought the PF plans, which are very good, and went line by line pricing all the parts at today’s costs (the plans have outdated/obsolete part numbers and cost) and concluded there’s no way to build this for under $2k. I found a Johnson loader on an old unusable 1277 for $1k. I took off the loader and am in the process of putting it on a C-121. I’ll end up giving away whatever usable parts there are on the 1277 and scraping the rest. I have to say that if I had it to do over, I’d put a new engine in the 1277 and leave the loader on there. The loader, even apart, is really heavy and hard to manhandle in my little workshop.

Thats what I went with in the end, very sturdy and simple to make.

Thanks kp.... my first resto & lots of imperfections in the sheet metal & paint but she don't seem to mind when she gets put to work. 1257 plow mule is cracked in the same spot. The hood stand is only about 18 gauge and sees stress from the lift lever.

It's a mason's block used with mason's line. For setting & keeping the levelness of a course of brick or block. Nowadays they are made of plastic go figure.

That's the idea, Jim. Make sure mechanicals are tip top, and a MMO rubdown. Body panels are in decent condition, not to rusty. Paint the rims and seat and call it a day.