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After the demise of my Land Rover Discovery I replaced it with a Hyundai Santa Fee. Unfortunately the Santa Fee hasn't got the towing capacity of the Disco. Just 2 ton against the Disco's 3-1/2. So my 12ft x 6ft twin axle trailer went to live at a friends farm. At the weekend I purchased a second hand single axle trailer. 8ft x 4ft I can only carry one tractor instead of four now, but that's not a problem. Having to cut down on the shows with the way things are. It'll be also handy on my trips to my mates in Scotland for hauling logs home. I intend to remove the ramp and replace with a tailgate. Less drag and I have the light weight ramps I used with the 12 x 6 trailer.

For years before our move to Florida my main saw was a radial arm and I never really saw the need for a table saw. The auction before the move saw 95% of my woodworking tools went bye-bye. The only saw I kept was a 12" Dewalt miter saw. In the 17 years down there I built my woodworking shop back with a table saw and other power tools but never a radial arm even though I wanted one. Now that we are back home I once again have a nice workshop and plenty of room. I looked around for a decent radial arm but didn't get real serious about it. In the back of my mind was this old Dewalt Model MBC. The serial # easily dates Dewalts in two year increments and this one was manufactured in 1954 or 1955. Based on the later serial # I'd guess it was 1955. Too bad because I was born in 1954. The history of this saw makes it far more valuable to me than any other saw I could buy. My parents moved into an old (even at that time) 10 acre apple farm in 1954 when my mom was pregnant with me. Through the late 50's and 60's I remember watching my dad take one area of the old house at a time and do a complete remodel. He bought this saw around 1960 and he and a friend would carry it to the area next on the list. This is all cast iron and HEAVY. I remember him finally making the stand for it. You can see the arms that pull out allowing it to be moved around like a wheel barrow. Dads workshop was centered around this saw and as soon as I was old enough I was using it as well. Many 4-H woodworking projects were built using this saw. By that time the house was finished and dad had a heated workshop detached from the house. Fast forward to the early 2000's. Dads health was rapidly declining and he no longer could do much in his shop. We were living in Florida at the time so this saw went to my brother in law. He had a workshop attached to his garage and did mostly craft show stuff. Well, being 20 years older than me he's at the point where he can't use his shop anymore. He sold most of the tools but wouldn't sell this because of the history. He wanted to know if I wanted it. I couldn't get to his place fast enough. After all the decades I was surprised to find the stand still decent and was able to winch it into my trailer for the 55 mile trip home. It was impossible for my wife and I to lift this so I completely disassembled it and carried it down the stairs to me workshop. The wiring was pretty bad so the first thing I did was to completely rewire it. My brother in law said it bogged down real bad while cutting and I wanted to make sure it was OK before going further. Almost to my amazement it still runs like a swiss watch. Not bad for a motor over 65 years old. Knowing it was fine I proceeded to rebuild the table. The decades of use definitely showed. Once that was done I went through the 47 gazillion adjustments to get it as precise as it was new. I didn't want to do much to the stand other than tight things up. I remember watching in wonderment dad think it out and build it. One more thing. The discharge 90° on the blade guard was missing. I searched all over for a replacement but none were to be found. That hose that on there is a turbo intercooler hose and it fits like it was made for it.

Had the 1067 in the shop for some repair & upkeep. This was broken BR (before resto). I welded it but it cracked again. Made a plate to bolt over it & hopefully cures the problem. Put a new @76c12091520h seat on it. Yep It needed spacers too @Achto

And if you watch any old "Leave it to Beaver" programs, Ward had that model saw in his garage. These pics are the ones of my Dad's. It was at my brothers in the old garage and looks pretty rough. It is up at my shop now. I don't use it but it is all I have left from the old man.

Last week while mowing the green, front, right engine to shaker plate bolt broke on the C125. Today I finally got to work on it. Getting the mounting bar off to remove the broken piece of bolt was a bit of work. First bonnet/hood off. No way to get a socket/spanner the the bolts holding the bar. So off with the front axle mounting. Eased up the shaker plate and inserted a small piece of wood 'twix it and chassis/frame. Then undid the bar and removed it. The broken piece was then drilled out from the under side. The drill bit actually screwed it out. Just a case of putting it all back together after that.

I began the journey today. This horse was given to me by a good friend. As a tribute to my new found hobby and the amazing tractors these are I’m restoring this ole gal to her former glory keeping it as correct as I can. It is original frame, engine, tranny and sheet metal. Just a few knick knacks that it needs that won’t be original to it but that’s ok. I’ll try to post updates when I can but here’s the before and early tear down.

@peter lena will be by soon to help you keep it greasy! Make sure to jack up the front end by the frame while doing a grease service on all the pivot points. It’ll help the grease get to the areas needing grease the most.

I use 30 wt Rotella for engine. Any 80/90 wt gear oil for trans. Lift front end up when draining trans. There’s a bump in middle that prevents some oil from draining…

So I finally got around to repairing my rusty 42 side discharge. Figured I’d get it ready before the bulk of mowing season. started off by hacking out all the thin and blown through sections. Probably had to patch about 4 sections. The worst of it was around the front curvature. Which makes sense seeing that’s where most of the grass will clump. Although there was still plenty of good steel which surprised me. I degreased and cleaned the underside as well as I could. The POR-15 degreaser is some serious stuff. It turned all the rust and grass into liquid. I started off with two coats of POR-15. After that I hit it with a few coats of agriculture enamel. I know it looks fairly pitted but most pits are only the thickness off a fingernail. Anyways I’ll probably give it one more generous coat of agriculture enamel and it should hold up for quite some time. I don’t really have sandy dirt so it hopefully will last

No , the ole man kept every thing . we found the following : Tailpipe full of holes from a 1973 GMC 3/4 ton. 4 rims from a 1953 Chrysler . 1 hub cap from my brother's 1960 Impala , 2 hubcaps from my 1963 Impala. 3 or 4 radios from Cheby's , a lot of adult beverage bottles. and a 50 lb box full of bent double headed nails. Huge quantities of used fan belts , a couple of fans off of auto engines. the list goes on and on. Took 4 pickups to haul stuff to the dump ( each truck made more than 1 load. This was the adventure in 1991 .Fast forward to about 2012 my mother had continued loading the place up. She had filled up a 3 drawer kitchen cabinet in the garage with plastic lids from plastic containers ( no bottoms were found) . We filled up a roll off dumpster . I wonder where my pack rat problems comes from????

Shaker plate engine mounts.......One of Wheel Horses bad ideas.

Good point. I made the, hopefully incorrect, assumption that the seller's reaction was to an advanced case with a poor prognosis. In 2014, based on bloodwork, my GP insisted on a biopsy (not a fun procedure) that informed successful treatment. Probably wouldn't be typing this had I ignored his advice.

"where the points are fully open and that mark it not even close to the flywheel timing marks." The spark fires when the points just open electrically not when they are fully open. Ed

A primer bulb will fill the carburetor if installed correctly, make sure that it is supplying fuel by disconnecting the fuel line. Tossing all kinds of fuel pumps won't help if the primer bulb did indeed fill the carburetor, so look for other problems such as a dirt in the carburetor.

Not saying it can't be done but if you don't already own the crimpers to make up the loops at the cable ends it will cost more that buying one from Lowell that will actually fit properly.

Apologies to any hillbillies, no disrespect ! This one's been in use in the shop for a decade or more. I made my own mason line blocks... outta wood.

@Desko noting your wiring , I regularly use spiral cable wrap on my wires to stop chafing and prevent the usual shorting issues , then I use nylon hangers secured to a nearby bolt or screw , just picked up 20 ft of 3/8" ID clear cable wrap on amazon for $ 6 .

Velocar drive system. It has three speeds.

Excellent choices and info. Check the condition of the Unidrive gear oil before you drain it - pull the dipstick - you should only see only amber clean oil. If it is a milky brown, then there are water and rust in there - best to drain that out and add 2 quarts of diesel fuel to flush it.(plenty of info on previous posts about that) That nasty milky stuff means it is time to install a new shifter boot. Been there, done that... Bill

It would be a shame to part out that hydro. The GT 1800/1848 had the same gear ratios as the 520HC. Very fast tractors.

I grew up in a poor isolated area of NZ, so we learnt to make do with things, then 10 years living in the remote Falklands fine tuned that! Plus you get great satisfaction from making something for as close to nothing as possible

That looks like a fatigue crack. Was your weld repair a weld and grind smooth type of repair? In this case, the weld left a stress riser that eventually grew into another fatigue crack. If you make another similar weld repair, go over the weld with a pneumatic needle de-scaler. The de-scaler will leave a layer of compressed metal along the repair, which will help prevent another crack from forming. Then again, your plate repair is effective as well. Nicely done, too. The best repair is quite often the one that matches the resources and tools at hand.

Your father's saw was built when quality was important, sad to see what DeWalt and others home shop tools became in the '70s and '80s. The tabletop you made is a work of art! Is the stand the same one your father had? Glad to see the saw found its way home to you. About fifteen years ago I purchased an entire woodworking shop from a man who needed to go into assisted living. Over the years I had small woodworking shops (first was six feet by eight feet) and the versatility of a radial arm saw was appealing so I had one. It wasn't great at anything but I didn't have room for a table saw and other large equipment. Now I have a good size shop and all of the woodworking tools I purchased from this gentleman are topnotch. Presently the only job the radial arm saw does is cut tenons. Although I have two table saws and a tenon jig I find that the radial arm saw is better suited to this task.

Yea I'll reloom it when it's done and tie it off properly so it doesn't get caught up in the shifter or on the brake cross shaft. I try and get my stuff locally even if it costs a little more but it's worth helping the small businesses when I can.

The 856 project in progress. Decided not to paint it or even try to remove the paint someone had painted it with in the past. Took some steel wool and knocked off some of the loose stuff. Had a friend draw on some hand painted stripes. Rubbed the metal all down with boiled linseed oil then sprayed it all with clear.

@stevasaurus Did you run across some of those " what the hell is this and what was it used on " tools ? i have a few that are big ????? marks. My favorite when going the Ole man's stuff was the carryall box full of used spark plugs.

Good idea. We used some of that the other day to help prevent one of the ropes on our rescue boat chafing through. "Ning" is the guy in the picture, great seaman and so full of energy you have a job keeping up with him! I also notice the little C125 I have been working on today has several chafed wires

It's a mason's block used with mason's line. For setting & keeping the levelness of a course of brick or block. Nowadays they are made of plastic go figure.

@timnlinda@sktc.net rotella 30 wt is a very good oil for those older engines , rear end oil 80-90 wt 2qts . also when you change out your shift boot , I use a razor blade to cut it off , and dielectric grease to install it , on the shaft and starting hole point , makes it go on much easier , pete

Looks too nice to even use! Just be careful as you know how dangerous those things can be. Do they even make them anymore? Personally I will take my sliding miter saw and a saw buck any day just 'cause it's a bit more portable. Still your sentimental attachment... A good vid....

No I did not @cschannuth here did. I got no where near the welding skills. I have some of his build pics if it helps ya when the time comes.

Cool scooper, but it’s painted the wrong color

Here is a cheap tach/ hr meter I hooked up. I use it on my 417a. It has adjustable settings so you can use it on multiple applications. I set mine to 4 stroke twin and it maxes out around 3600rpm which is about what it should be. Works for me. Good luck Cory

Yes 1 3/8" OD x 3/4" ID for sure. They are just the real common low speed bearings that can be had at the jungle or fleabay. If they are a little loose lightly prick punch the inside of the hub in a couple of spots. They will have seals both sides so pick out the inside seal if you plan on lubing them through the zerk. Greasy easy Pete would say repack them with red hi tack and he is right as they don't have much in them if you are going to run them sealed. They don't come with a lot of quality lube in them but I don't think you are gonna run the Indy 500 with her. General consensus here is run them sealed for a queenie or light duty... grease if a worker.

Excellent advise - I assume you have a K Series Kohler - they only have splash lubrication, no oil pump or filter. Clean oil, up to the recommended level is its life blood ....

Any good SAE 30 motor oil for the engine, the important thing is not allowing the oil level to get low and change it every 25 hours. Tell us a bit about yourself and your 310 by doing an introduction. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/47-introductions/

I bought a couple of the Ebay cheapies but decided to get a better unit for my 2005 and purchased a Mr. Gasket 42s. I love it especially in the winter when it can sit for longer spells. I mounted it just under the tank on the left side. It needs to be on a circuit that's hot when the ignition is on. A wire was already back there that was for one of the safety gizmos. I made sure it was fused properly and I'm good to go. I did use one of the cheapies on my 854 and it's working great.

I've had the same pump (HEP-02A) on mine with a different label for at least 5-6 years. $12.00 shipped off eBay All I did with the existing pump was run a length of fuel line between the connections to keep crud out. Not even sure it was necessary, but cheep ins

Absolutely agreed. You should see how many times Trina can reuse a board. I wish I was kidding.....😂

Thanks! Packing my tools, tie-downs, ramps, etc. now. My wife thinks it's cute how excited I am to be bringing these home, but she is also fully supportive of my somewhat new addiction ...er.... hobby. I appreciate the kind words and thoughts for the seller and will be sure to pass them along. Personally, I just had the prostate (among other things) bloodwork done a few weeks ago and I'm clear. Cholesterol a bit high, blood pressure looking not too bad.... but yeah, best not to ignore these things. Hopefully I'll be sharing some pics by tomorrow afternoon, but it may be Wednesday. Cheers!

Cataloging tools, inherited from Grandfathers, Dad, FIL. Cleaning, oiling, sharpening...just going through and cataloging what is there. OMG...just so many...it is just crazy to try to make sense of all of it. This is just one tool box...a Craftsman. How nice is it to just look at tools??

Did some work on the 520-8 this evening while I had a little time. I started off with a new 5 pin plug and spades for the key switch. Then I moved onto the parking brake wiring and repaired that. I'm waiting on the new flag connectors for the clutch switch which I was able to cross to a 3 pin GE fridge light switch since they are nla from toro. I also repaired the hood corner since the spot welds broke out and it was separating but I still have to fix the dent under the headlights yet but haven't come up with a good idea that won't mess up the ribbing of it. Also is there anyone that keeps a record of the build date/unit numbers of these on here?

Glad to have you up Mr Jim. 😀 After @JCM headed for the low ground the BBT went out and spent some time in the new garden area cleaning out rocks and sticks. I did a little more prep on changing the Cinnamon Horse C160-8 over to 5 lug trailer hubs on the front axle. Yesterday Trina and I attached the drilled axle stubs (thank you to the person who did that !) to the N. O. S. Steering knuckles I got from @Sparky last year at @JCM Jim's Meet n Greet. Today I drilled the tie rod holes out to accept the oversized 7/16 hiem joints.

So I went over to my buddies house this morning to pick up the dash off the 856 project. Leaving his house there was a junker picking up stuff on the curb. His truck was piled up so high I thought he may be related to @Pullstart. Well he was older and and trying to get a washing machine balanced in there. So I pulled over to help him lift it. Well as he was removing stuff in the truck in order to get this washing machine squeezed in, I spot this buried in the back. We pull it out, I told him I give him 10 bucks for it and help him load the washer. Deal. Needs tubes for the tires but it's all there. I put these little wheels on for now cause that's all I have until I get tubes. Works fine, nice and solid but paint peeling off. I painted the dash for the 856. I'm not going to paint the rest of the tractor. Going to leave it ratty looking, but I just wanted to do the dash.

Happy Birthday @953 nut ! I started out above ribbing on @Pullstart, and forgot to wish you a Happy Birthday …

Haha! I never know what any of the whatz-it posts are..so from now on all my answers are gonna be the same. “It’s a door stopper” I mean isn’t everything a possible door stopper

I did a TON of experimenting and flowing in this area, from no head gasket and 42ci head, to 4 gaskets and 46ci head, then did it all over again after working the ports. I found a 42ci head and no gasket definitely hurt, and adding more than 2 gaskets to a 42ci head or 1 to a 46ci head netted minimal gains. A few things come to mind here though: 1. Who knows how 'fast' my shop vac is moving air and at what RPM is the engine at which matches it? 2. Pullers almost always mill their heads and dont talk much about flow. They want big grunt. 3. Roundy round guys seem to concentrate on flow and dont worry much about compression. They want it off the corners and pulling hard at high rpm. The big question is, at what RPM does that flow vs compression tradeoff 'kick in'? I found an old ford flatty article where they dyno'd 7-8-9:1. The higher the compression the more power up to about 4500, above that the lower compression ones ran stronger. Strangely, the worst overall performer was the 9:1 engine. In my case, we spend 90% of our time from off idle-3000 or so, and the other 10% screaming the guts out of em on a mud run or hill bomb- Im erring a bit on the side of compression and not too worried if I lose a bit at 6 grand. Does that make sense?

Not this guy.

@ebinmaine I have not

Completed the assembly / restoration of a 42" side