Leaderboard

This weekend has been the Hethersgill Vintage Clubs annual rally. Because of covid we have not been able to run it for three years. So it's been like a fresh start. Friday I took my farmer mates caravan through to the site, while he followed with cattle trailer with signage, table, chairs and my Sears/Roper GT16. We then erected the auction tent. I later returned home to load my car with stuff I was taking for the auction a long with a small 3X4ft trailer. Saturday was mainly spent booking in early arrivals and things for the auction, plus setting up the car display area. After a whisky laced coffee in the caravan and retired to bed in the back of the car. Number 3 grandson bedded down in his car along side. His first time away with me and at the rally. He did very well helping out here and there. Up early Sunday and soon was time to start booking in the car entries. Three of us were doing this but I kept getting dragged away to sort out some other peoples problems. Ten o'clock and the gate opened for the public. The show finished around 4pm and it was time to start packing stuff away and helping load things that people had bought at the auction. I got a nice little trailer. Quite pleased with it. Also a cast iron Bamfords seat of some farm equipment. That will turn into a garden seat similar to one we already have. I hadn't given any thought as to how I was getting the trailer home. But Lewis phoned his eldest brother and he came and collect it along with the Sears and delivered it to my place. Eventually I arrived home about 8pm. had a bite to eat then unloaded the car. Well and truly tired. Bed by 10am and didn't wake till 6pm. Today back to the site and helped finish clearing up. Took the newly purchased trailer and brought a couple of tractor tyres my mate had bought. So below are some photo's for your perusal. This belongs to a friend of mine who has quite collection of vintage bicycles and some cars. Great fun to drive. This is the pickup he brought it in. 1920's Citroen. That all for now. I do have a few more that failed to load. I'll try later.

Velocar drive system. It has three speeds.

So I finally got around to repairing my rusty 42 side discharge. Figured I’d get it ready before the bulk of mowing season. started off by hacking out all the thin and blown through sections. Probably had to patch about 4 sections. The worst of it was around the front curvature. Which makes sense seeing that’s where most of the grass will clump. Although there was still plenty of good steel which surprised me. I degreased and cleaned the underside as well as I could. The POR-15 degreaser is some serious stuff. It turned all the rust and grass into liquid. I started off with two coats of POR-15. After that I hit it with a few coats of agriculture enamel. I know it looks fairly pitted but most pits are only the thickness off a fingernail. Anyways I’ll probably give it one more generous coat of agriculture enamel and it should hold up for quite some time. I don’t really have sandy dirt so it hopefully will last

I overhauled the lift bar with a new pin, shaft and bushing. I also made provisions to be able to grease it with zirk fittings. Also replaced the worn shaft on the clutch idler arm and fitted ball bearings to it.

WOOHOO!! THEY ARE MINE!! The poor lady called me a while ago, actually thinking she was calling a different buyer for something else. Apparently, her husband recently found out he has prostate cancer , so they are selling off a bunch of stuff.... I don't enjoy benefitting from someone else's misfortune, but someone was going to buy them. I'm not very religious, but I will be saying a prayer for the guy (his name is Curtis), and it might brighten his day a bit if tell him some of my friends here at the forum are praying for him too I reserved a 10 foot U-Haul for tomorrow, which should be easier to get them in, and will only cost a little more than the pickup truck. Don, if you want to help me load, the help would be appreciated, but sorry, not giving you a tractor I am likely to be parting out at least one of these, probably both, after I get the parts I want. Anyone have a wish list?

Well it's been a fun 3 days. I took everything apart as you know, a lot of cleaning of the tins and fins on the engine. Rebuilt the carburetor, cleaned out the gas tank, changed the sediment bowl over to a petcock, new fuel lines and an inline fuel filter. Went through the wiring, cleaned all the connections, changed what ends needed changed put new ends on the battery cables and just made sure that everything was nice and solid. Surprisingly most of the old wiring is still in good shape. The lighter is still there and it even works. It started fairly easy, a little fiddling with adjustments and it smoothed right out and runs sweet. I want to add a shout out to Dan @Achto for his suggestion on how I could fix a dog point screw that would work on this transmission. I was told the transmission was no good but she runs and drives and all gears work as they should. I just need to go through the rest of the functions of the tractor at some point. I've got a kitchen remodel I want to start this coming Monday and that'll have to take precedent.

Week 6 post op. No knee brace and 1 crutch now physical therapy is now scheduled 2x a week, time to regain muscle lost and joint flexibility in the knee. Given the nature of my job as a Mechanic, crawling in and out of vehicles, Dr has decided to keep me out of work for 6 more weeks to push the physical therapy hard. So hopefully going to work after June 21.

It's on, had to tweak it a bit but it's very secure

He is the driving force behind all our WheelHorse projects. Mama had to come out in the garage to tell us to stop working for the night at 10 of 9pm.. it’s a school night 😂

From what I can tell, the dog point screw had rotted off and the shifter was to sloppy in the hole to be able to shift through the gears. When I tried to replace the 1/4x20 dog point screw, it just slid through the hole and wouldn't grab the threads. Now what I took out of the hole was a 1/4x20 dog point screw. I could see threads so I tried a larger bolt. A 5/16x18 thread into the hole with a little bit of effort, but for the most part threaded in by hand. They don't actually have a 5/16x18x1 dog point screw. I got a hold of Dan @Achto, and explained the situation to him. So he suggested making my own. So I chucked up a set screw in a drill and turned that against a running grinding wheel and cut a dog point on the end. Threaded that into the hole and adjusted it so I could shift through the gears and then backed it up with a nut to lock it in place. Seems like it's a good fix. Time will tell, but as it stands right now, it all acts like it should. I haven't thoroughly gone through everything about the transmission but the gears do work. I think there may be hub problems though.

Both of these have "12hp" engines, both are gear driven, and both are from the HW Bush era. But one is a toy and the other is a tool. The back tires on the little guy are smaller than the front tires on the big guy lol. Both are fine machines, I'm going to start having my 12yo mow on the little Yard Pro which just got a new ignition coil. I also changed up my steel winch cable for a poly winch rope with a nice new hook and rubber stopper. We'll see how it holds up but I look forward to not having my hands chewed up by the cable.

Got my weights and grader blade installed. Got a little grading done aswell!

Very Very true. Get that blood work done, I have been diagnosed with it early on. On a monitor and test regimen at this point, numbers are remaining level so far. (4 years) Thankful.

Cataloging tools, inherited from Grandfathers, Dad, FIL. Cleaning, oiling, sharpening...just going through and cataloging what is there. OMG...just so many...it is just crazy to try to make sense of all of it. This is just one tool box...a Craftsman. How nice is it to just look at tools??

My guess is that a spark advance cam is being used rather than a compression release. Perhaps the cam was reground for more valve lift or duration. Here is a write-up I did that explains it. I doubt that the cam timing is off or you wouldn't be able to idle it. Ignition timing on Kohler engines. Gapping the ignition points at .020 has always been the standard answer to how points should be set. That probably will get you into the ballpark where the engine will run, but with a bit of additional effort you can improve the engine’s power and performance. The Kohler engine manual in the Red Square files section covers two methods for setting the ignition timing, Static Timing and using a Timing Light. This manual is a relatively new manual and it overlooks the fact that many of our engines were built prior to the ACR (automatic compression release) camshaft. Earlier engines (mostly 1965 and earlier) had a Spark Advance camshaft that can not be timed using Static timing. At rest (and very low RPMs) the timing is retarded to fire slightly after TDC. The timing mark (SP) on your flywheel is at twenty degrees before top dead center but at rest the points on these engines break about ten degrees after top dead center. The only reliable way to check or set the timing on these engines is with a timing light. There are a couple ways to determine what camshaft you have. Presuming the camshaft in your engine is the one it was born with the data plate on the engine has a suffix that can tell you what camshaft was used. The table below will tell you the suffix applicable to your engine. The other way to determine what camshaft you have is to remove the cam gear cover and take a look. If you see a mechanism attached to the cam gear it is the ACR cam. The following engines have the spark advance camshaft; K-141, Suffix prior to “C” K-161, Suffix prior to “J” K-181, Suffix prior to “D” K-241, Suffix prior to “D”

That's the idea, Jim. Make sure mechanicals are tip top, and a MMO rubdown. Body panels are in decent condition, not to rusty. Paint the rims and seat and call it a day.

And sleep better knowing 2 more horses live to fight another day

Got asked to make a drinks holder for the ships bar, they needed somewhere for some guiness glasses to settle after pouring. Ashore you could just leave them, but on a rolling ship they would soon be knocked over. Thought that just making a square with four glass sized holes would be a bit boring. Found a broken chair in the bar and used it to make the glass holder. It was awkward due to the shapes involved, but I'm happy with the results. The chair was pulled out of the skip, so at least it wasn't totally wasted.

Looks to me Jr. is getting a proper schooling right there!

Lots of threads here Dan on that regulator ...which actually is not a regulator at all but merely a rectifier. Very prone to over charging battery with extended seat time. They are very expensive over here these days and hen's teeth over there most likely. The general consensus is to replace it wit a cheaper and available three term regulator. Do a search here on 109313 and you'll find some good poop on replacing it.

@Goldnboy agree with @ri702bill on the brake removal , very easy at that point to , remove that pto cone , wipe out the inside needle bearing , and lightly re lubricate it with , lucas X-TRA HEAVY DUTY GREASE , walmart $ 7 , hi temp 560 deg, anti sling , polyurea rated , will make that bearing live in smooth quiet function . notice your pto lever quadrant , could use a couple of washers and a shot of lube , also your lift arm , cross shaft mount area , is dry for lubricant . only a recommendation on the lube , but better than rust , keep it greasy , pete

Have made a holder out of bits laying about the workshop. Cut some thread into the bar, fingers crossed that it works. Red paint reacted to the undercoat, but it's all I have at the moment.

A funny follow up to earlier short track posting - we always had a ratty old radiator as a spare - why cut your night short if yours gets damaged? Don't you know, one of the three local guys spun and got hit and had the gall to ask if HE could borrow it. The biggest guy in our group told him, since he lived locally, he should leave now and take the radiator out of his Mother's car.

Two words. Police Report.

Just found this in a WH brochure: Didn't knew you could get this as an option. Haven't seen one. Does anyone have one? would love to know how it works to fabricate mine.

This wheelhorse was geared up for about + 40mph. It had direct drive to a solid rear axle and a motorbike disc brake. I didn't build it, brought it already converted, but there is a good guide on Facebook from a young guy that built one from scratch.

I can say I’ve never noticed any other brand owners being snobby to me, as I looked down my nose at them…

I don’t know what I would do if someone moved my tractors without permission. I’m generally a very mild mannered person but some things you just don’t do. I’m also pretty sure that my reaction to those people and those around them at that moment would be something that they would never forget. Never in a million years would I jump on someone’s tractor,machine, truck, etc that I didn’t know and move it unless it was an emergency. Sorry if I ranted, as you guys know I always try to keep my posts positive as we all do!

Good luck with your deal! I have fit 4 Horses into my 5’ bed Colorado… but these are bigger and heavier and have decks too. I’m not sure I’d try to get ‘em into a pickup bed together. Signed, the Horse Loader Himself.

Never truer words were said Peter - just get on and do stuff, you will learn soon enough from mistakes. So many people I know happily pick holes in all my projects, point out mistakes etc, but none of them are brave enough to try anything themselves - so therefore they achieve nothing in life. I often look back at our busy life and the mistakes we made, some of them huge, but I wouldn't change anything as they are generally the defining moments that put you on the correct path.

I have a good replacement hood for tyhat... come and get it. ...FREEBIE for your kid. In the PA panhandle...Located 40m south fo Lake Erie

I agree. You would make more money to fix them up and resell them... @davem1111... Don

Thanks again. I've had somekind of a eureka-moment regarding the flow of the pump. As you said I can play with pulley sizes to get the flow that I want. One of the Bosch pumps has a working range between 800 and 3500 rpm, so anything in between that range is fine. Only issue is that I would have to fit a very large pulley to the pump to get the rpm coming from the engine low enough to reduce the pump to about 1000 rpm. Another option would be a jackshaft.. Sadly I didn't hear from the hydraulic shop yet so i'll have to wait a little bit more before I can start mocking up the pump.

Well said, Steve. There are good and bad/ignorant wherever you are.

You are going to run into people everywhere that thinks their stuff doesn't stink. We have quite a few JD owners on this site, and they have been excellent and have been treated well by all of us. Don't forget that, when you try to lump people into a box. There are bad actors on all sides, we have them here also. I envy the people that collect and save any of the kind of Garden Tractors out there. Me, I especially like the Blue Panzers and really enjoy seeing them at any show. I also like seeing the Allis Chalmers Garden Tractors. It is the history of all of the Garden Tractors that make all of these shows special. It is also all of that history that makes Wheel Horse special also. The jerks that have moved some of your tractors at any show (without permission) are just that...jerks !!! Good luck making them feel bad, and that is why people are getting shot for stupid junk these days. Most shows, that I have been to, have an area for the kind of Garden Tractor you are bringing. The shows that don't, will. I'm just saying...it is time to chill out...STOP THE HATE. Really, is this worth arguing about. Come on you guys.

Ah, my error for not reading the first post more carefully (or my dim memory--equally possible). The tipper cylinder will have more volume than the 3-point cylinder, especially if it is a telescoping unit. Still, it will be smaller by itself than either pair of cylinders that would be on an FEL and having a lift time of 5-8 seconds would give you good control. I think you will need only 1-2 gpm of flow and pressure may be as low as 750 psi. You will not need a fancy "power beyond" valve or a flow control valve (hooray). My approach would be to set the pulley sizes from engine to pump so that the pump only turns fast enough to give 1-2 gpm output instead of the much higher output of which it is capable at higher RPM. This way you do not need a flow control valve and the lift times will not be too quick. It will still give full pressure at that speed when it encounters resistance from either cylinder's load.

UHMmmm... there would be no way for me to contain my... displeasure... I don't consider anyone else's' possessions to be junk. I see things as opportunities! The only people who could legally move my tractors are guys who are wearing Wheel Horse apparel... or their profile names are @Jeff-C175 @Pullstart @ebinmaine @slim67 @Achto ...and probably a couple of others that I am missing. Other than that... we are going to have a BIG problem. Don

Happy little tractor is mowing again! New blades, belts and bearings were fitted

Pulley rebuild

Voltage regulator that is shown starting in 1982 ipl https://www.partstree.com/models/01-12k803-c-125-toro-garden-tractor-1982/electrical-system-single-cylinder-models-6/

Very cool getting the Jr involved. Looking forward to seeing how this goes!

If they shunted me I would be back next time to show them what a real 430 JD would do.

@Dfbittner Moved to Maine in 2008 from Danvers. This September we are having our 4th annual Meet & Greet and you are invited. 63 miles from Danvers. Check out info under Red Square Herd or send me a PM for more info. Pictures of my 520-H just to keep you interested in the 2 stage blower.

Run, don't walk.

Sadly there seem to be more of them than people that just get on with it!

If you don’t go with a replacement hood, time for a big hammer… Great project!!!

Using an old mule and leaving the adjuster is quick and handy. Do give thought to how the adjuster, in this case, is supporting the weight on the ball. It is pushing against the center of a slim rod spanning the two sides of the Attach-a-Matic. No worries for modest loads, but with a heavy load on the ball, expect that rod to bend.

The weather's on the cool side today so I decided to dig into this tractor a little bit and start taking things apart and seeing just how dirty it is. Of course the oil is pretty black, but it was up to the proper level. Not all that bad, I've seen worse, at least it wasn't packed full. I don't know why the battery won't hold a charge.

I’m sure he’ll find some of them in there too….

Upgraded the upper steering shaft bearing. I tried keeping the new bearing support as simple as possible, in order to not take up too much room. But not satisfied, too much slop down below at the support bearing block. Going to add another bearing down there.