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Need to revise my Daily Driver today. for this issue i built myself a simple but cool Tool. What‘s it for? Guess.... Felt a rapidly increasing play in fast corners on the steering wheel and in stronger corners I hear a click, click ... The car develops a massive life of its own in fast corners. I assumed it would be the driveshafts and tie rod joints, but finding a cheap complete set I bought the whole thing. Most of the parts were delivered promptly, except for the brake discs. Since the lower ball joints were still good and the wheel bearings as well, I decided to save them for later. When replacing the tie rod ends, I only found a self-locking nut. I once had an almost catastrophe because such a mother had completely dissolved while fast driving i ain‘t trust them allone further. That's why I really want to have a safety pin inside. the old ones also didn‘t have the holes, so i made it myself but it is not allway‘s easy to drill exactly in a thread. but since also this new version didn't have a hole for it, I needed again my „tool“ to set the hole precisely in a thread. ok, somebody may say hey disassemble it put it in a Drillpress and do the Job, but i‘m still on the Car and want waste that Time, so i quickly made this jig out of an old piece of pipe. Luckily i throwed it in my Toolbox and luckily i found it again J.i t. Now it’s a simple Job, just slide it over the thread Set the center of the Hole into the thread and finally drill the hole. After the threads have been countersunk, you can remove the tool and drill the hole completely. easy and simple and repeatable at any time. hope that simple trick will help somebody someday.

Started pulling the 856 project apart today. Not sure where to start. I think clean and rebuild the carb and rewire it all. Also I don't think the ignition switch is correct. Might have to add a solenoid or replace the key switch.

Had a few out yesterday

Picked up this 500hr 417 with loader today. Runs and operates awesome. Truth be told I don’t really need it but it was too cool to pass up on. I had 3 of these at one point and had to sell them.

I do have a new switch in the box if he wants to grab it........30.00 shipped

Had time for extraction of old Smokey the k181 for the B80 after work today. I have a replacement that I rebuilt and is running great and ready to go in after I clean her up a bit. Anyone from PA know if Innerst Auto Co.still in business?

Never really had an issue drilling stainless. Sharp bit, low RPMs with a lot of pressure, the bit should walk right through.

Have some rides with some Tyres. Changin Day...

My shifter knob and brake lever rubber end came in from Lowell, so I put them on the 1984 Work Horse… All I need now is the Hi-Lo shifter knob ( on back order from Lowell) and the Work Horse will be done…

Cables need to be big. minimum 6 ga. The correct switch isn't any bigger. It's the rating of the internal contacts what counts. Should be 70 Amp switch 3 terminal. There is a possibility that some one replaced it with a generic 3 terminal switch at some point.

The wires have to be heavy to carry the correct current on that type of switch

QUALITY drill bits, hefty amount of drill oil. Medium speed, medium pressure. I like to think that will come naturally, but stainless has a strength to it as to where you think everything is great, then WHAM! you have no bit left.

In the last 2 weeks I have bought 6 machines lol The 4 closest to the camera and the loader and a 312 all in the last couple weeks lol

Spent a little time with the newest member of my herd. The starter was not retracting all of the way so it was rubbing when I turned the engine over by hand. I removed the starter and cleaned up the worm gear on it. I did not have any dry graphite on hand to lube the worm gear so I broke some lead out of a contractors pencil and crushed it to use as a dry lube. I had no idea when this tractor has ran last. Was a little hopeful to see that it had some type of service around 3yrs ago. under the air filter looked a bit scary though. After some scrubbing I was able to find a carburetor under all that gunk. Once I get the carb rebuilt I will hook up an IV bottle & see if this beast will run.

Newly acquired B-100. I'm almost at the magical number 30. It's taken me about 4 years to get to this point. What a journey it has been !

The shifter knob and the parking brake lever rubber end came in from Lowell… the HI-LO shifter knob is on back order… so I put them on the 1984 Work Horse. All I need is the HI-LO shifter knob and the Work Horse will be done…

Thanks, I will keep it in mind. Going over everything first to see what I'm going to need. I know it's going to need a lot. I need to cut corners where I can. I know I have good solenoids already. I want to use what I have on hand before buying anything. Like on the last project.... the 875 quickly added up and before you know it you have more into it then what it's worth. I planned on keeping the 875 so I didn't care. Also the 875 was in much better condition then this 856. Remember this 856 had sat out in the weeds for decades. It's more of a challenge just to see if it can run and drive again. Here it is before we dragged it out. It is in rough shape.

Have also noted a spring uptick in original style ornaments currently one or 2 a week along with other styles here n there. Folks are out there gettin all their Horses all prettied up!

uhm… @Pullstart might disagree…

aka a "Gazover" tool - not to be confused with its cousin, the "Gazinta" Like muffler and tail pipe cutters. Bill

Do they teach you how not to drill thru body parts?

Stainless steel comes in many types just like other steels, so the machinability varies. In your case, you said straps so that my be you biggest problem. Breaking thru thin metal may cause the drill to corkscrew in and causing damage to the strap.

I’m sure there’s a mini truck somewhere that could haul a steamer just fine!

It could have been worse than a 7/16 bit....

The 6 ga wires are ready to be mailed. I ordered the Cloe-Hersee 95521-B-BX $44.89 from D B Electrical yesterday afternoon. Guess what?? It got delivered this morning...not even a day later. UPS

Sounds like the seat switch is not working. Operator must be in the seat for the ignition to work.

Got the tow valve open & unloaded the tractor. Rolls pretty easy too, the front tires made it a whole 6" off the ramps before it came to a stop again. It's about like trying to push a 1000lb rock.

That's using the old noggin for something other than a hat rack! Best get it off the trailer before the weight of it flattens the tires! It's properly coined a trucker gal. He basically bought them and the tractor was free!

Horses are sooooo easy to work on....and they last forever !!!! That's why I love them so much !! LOOKING GOOD ~!

From their limited run "Man Eater" series, I suppose .....

Musta been a short operator!

Put the 520-H to work tonight. With all the rain, a little snow last week, and being out of town for 2 weeks, the grass was getting out of control. Finally got most of it mowed. The back corner is still too wet to drive on. You know it's wet when the Mallards start to move in.

I have two thr 'T' handles... Exactly the same and WILL FIT the choke lever... Neither is cracked or chipped. Perfect fit. $22.50 shipped to your mailbox.

Should look like this Cole Hersee 95521B

So would you give it 5 stars for the quality of the bore

First attempt at a model of some of the heavy equipment I work on. Has severe warping on one piece, about 1/4 inch. Looking at perhaps switching to a friendlier filament than ABS. PETG is about the same temp parameters with less warping.

Good thing it not a gear jammer then and we'd had to push start it!

I am thinking of the one I had in the inventory section of the yard. I think your guy might be right. parts book says the 1974 d160 used 110513 bearings. 3/4 id

I would avoid using carbide-tipped masonry bits. As others have noted, the cobalt drill bits are recommended over HSS (high speed steel) drill bits. A drill press would also be best but otherwise, clamp the parts to something secure or in a vise. Stainless is not that hard of a material to drill, but using a high drill speed causes the stainless to get hot which in turn causes the stainless to harden. That is why you need oil to help keep both the stainless part and the drill bit from getting hot.

Colbalt bits. There are different levels of stainless. I had to drill out stainless screws in commercial kitchen equipment all the time. Slow and steady.

Her method: Low speed. 300 to 600 RPM max. Cutting oil is a MUST. Low to medium pressure. Take your time. DO NOT let the bit get overheated. VERY good quality drill bits specifically designed for hardened metals must be used. Do not let the drill bit stop in the process because that creates a ridge that can be very difficult to restart. Also be sure to watch that you are throwing chips and don't stop cutting when the drill gets dull. That will heat both metals pretty quickly.

Followed me home Saturday. No name for the win. 😂😂😂

My subsoiler came in today. Now I can complete the hitch build.

OK I fixed an issue with my tractor not running and having a gas feeding issue now I have a new issue. I tried mowing with my tractor and when I engage the PTO switch the engine stalls and then shuts off. I did some tracing of wires and cleaning the grounds ect and spraying all the electronic connections with deposits to help with any corrosion. I noticed when I unscrew the front panel that houses the ignition Switch, PTO, voltage read out, and headlight switch and hold the panel away from the chassis it runs fine and the PTO runs fine and the ignition switch wo t shut the engine off until I ground the front panel and then when the panel is grounded this is when the PTO switch shuts off the mower too in the same fashion as if I'm turning the ignition switch off. Does anyone know what this issue could be or is it just a shorted switch. Thanks in advance

So... let me see if I have this straight. You... lived/worked near where Jeff does... and now you live/work near where I do... You... must. like. to live near... nuts.... Don

I believe I have some welding cables over at my Dad's. I also have a good 4 sets of jumper cables hanging around here. I can wait a few days for the wires...it happens to be almost freezing out the next couple of days. I found I also have a few spools of 12 ga & 14 ga along with a whole tray of assorted connectors and shrink tubing...and about 3 crimping tools.

Magic tap cutting oil. And the art of stainless drilling is not for everyone only the....... You too can be one!

Yep, Innerst Auto is alive and well.....open till 5PM.

I am definitely jealous. Love it!

OK...I have contacted a source for making my 6 gage cables. I have also ordered the Cole Hersee #95521-B-BX ignition switch. $44.89 shipped from dbelectric.com. I decided that I did not want to go with the push button / on off switch that came with the 702. I also want to keep the cigarette lighter because...1. it was my Dad's, 2. I just might want to have a cigar again with @stevebo at the Big Show and share some Rock & Rye. 3. @WHX?? may need a light.