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After missing out on 2 C195’s over the past couple years, I finally brought one home tonight. A hour and a half drive, and $250 later it was in the back of my truck on the way home. It definitely needs work, but I think I did alright. No 3 point, unfortunately. I plan on doing a refurb on it, but it will have to go to the back of the line for now. I can’t wait to get to it. With the C 195, my black hood collection is almost complete. The pictures aren’t the best, I will get it unloaded tomorrow night and take more.

All: I now have the two 5025 Unidrives that I flushed recently apart to pick the better pieces and reassemble a good one. The good 3525 Cluster Gear had worn iron bronze bushings, the heavily pitted one had traditional bronze bushings with almost no wear. I decided to remove the bushings and switch them - the issue is the with removal process. The bushings are pressed in from the ends and each goes into a shallow shouldered counterbore - it is not possible to drive one bushing thru the gear into the other and out the other end. - a true "Ship in a Bottle" scenario. As @ebinmaine would say "Ya caint get theyah from heyah" The "normal" removal process would be to angle a drift against what small inner edge is showing and hammer it out, destroying that bushing in the process. I decided to make a driver with two halves that get assembled inside the gear, constructed similar to the concept how valve spring keepers work. It took a little doing to get the second insert fitted, but it worked well and did not damage the bushing. I swapped the two pieces out to a one piece pusher disc for the second bushing - no issues.

Maybe a new sink.

I have used the blind hole tool on it with some success. Your right Bill ...not much of a ridge to grab on to. Gotta like your pic on the gear on the right. You can see where water was sitting in it. Don't toss those old gears tho @Achto can make all kinds of cool things with them!

Had and old class 1 solid bar hitch laying around and decided to put it to use. Cut 5 inches off it and used that for my gusset.

Broncos are great machines, and the C series are just newer evolutions of the same. If you get the belly and mule drive hitches swapped, you basically have a C-140 Auto. Only other major difference is the Bronco should have limited slip on the differential. They originally came with electric PTO clutches, though few still work. Switching to manual clutch is simple. Mine was modified to use a 3-point, but you can see how nice they can turn out.

It’s a hard pressed day. Sun’s out, Kohler’s purring, coffee grounds for the garden, kid sleeping and she almost finished her crackers before passing out! Yeah, I’m aware of the flat tire on the trailer. It still rolls and doesn’t haul much weight

Gave the 867 a little workout today with the dozer blade. The end of my driveway would rattle your teeth when pulling onto the road. It leveled up nice. Might last a week...

So the newly acquired Lawn Ranger for my Granddaughter had a bad engine. No Compression. No problem. Simply pulled one of the NOS K181s off the shelf and with a few modifications it’s all ready.

I just dragged this home. Someone at the other end of my street put it at the curb. I dragged it all the way to my house. Both tires were flat, seemed to have been sitting for a very long time. Once I got it home I put air in the tires. There was no gas in it so I poured a little in the tank. Plugged in the electric start and it fired right up. Running really well the auger engaged but the drive didn't work in forward or reverse. I dropped the bottom pan and pulled out a mouse nest the size of a basket ball. Noticed the chain was off the sprocket. Put the chain back on. Buttoned it back up, started it up, put it in gear, took off like a rocket. Took me about 25 mins from when I dragged it home to running and driving. Ordered a set of skid shoes for it. When they come in I will put them on and change the oil and sell it in the fall. One man's trash is another man's treasure.

So, the bolt is threaded into the front hole TIGHT and locked down TIGHT with a grade 8 lock nut to at least 100 lb*ft. That bolt is NOT turning, especailly given the front axle greasing intervals that I use. I'm really happy with how this turned out.

As mentioned in the other thread regarding obtaining this tractor this was a special find and an emotional event for the owners daughter. I thought fitting adding a little something in his memory. Sometimes the story behind the object is worth more than the actual object.

After spending some time with Pullstart's very informative thread on this failure point that all 5xi owners shoudl be aware of, I set about doing this same repair to my 522xi back in Fall 2021. If you are not familiar with the thread I refer to, here is a link: In late 2021 I coordinated with a small CNC machine shop and had a new pin and block made and I figured at some point I would have to get a friend with a welder to help me apply the repair as I do not own a welder. Here is the pin and block I had made up: In January and February of this year, as I anticpated getting around to this repair in spring, it ocurred to me that there may be a way for folks to get this repair done without having to get a welder involved. I figured I could take chance on seeing if an off the shelf Grade-8, 7/8" bolt might be able to take the place of the machined pin. The cost was cheap enough and the "aft" or rear hole was already 7/8" diameter so using a bolt would just require opening up the forward or front pivot pin hole a bit. I decided the cost to roll the dice on a bolt was well worth the cheap price of admission. The big bolt might just fit the cast iron axle perfectly and if it didn't, oh well, I'll use plan A and get ahold of a welder. I even planned on only slgihtly opening up the forward pivot pin hole in the frame and tapping it with 7/8"-9 tap in order to better secure the bolt if it happened to fit the cast iron axle. Two weeks ago I tore into the repair. After I pulled the cast iron axle out, I test-fit the grade 8 bolt. I couldn't belive it. The bolt actually fit the axle better than the machined pin did! So away I went. I opened up the front hole in the frame with a step bit and followed with a 49/64" bit and 7/8"-9 bottom tap. I'll add that I had to chase to the hole with the tap from both the front and the rear (both ways) to knock the swarf or left of cut pieces of metal off the back side of the threaded hole before the big 7/8" bolt would fit up and thread in from the rear hole. In the end it was a perfect fit. The smooth unthreaded portion (shank) of the bolt took up all the space between the frame member with a single washer under the head. I tighted it down and added a 7/8"-9 grade-8 lock nut. No play any more at the front or rear pin holes in the frame. It's like the bolt was meant for this repair. Just pure dumb luck. I think this repair will oulast me and if there is any issue down the line I can revisit this and do the weld-up repair as I already have the parts necessary to do so. Total cost to do the no-weld repair was about $42 in parts (exact McMaster Carr bill of materials is shown below) and drill bits and the thread tap. As comparision, I paid the machine shop $60 to make me the pin and block. I just wanted to put this out the 5xi community especially for those that want to do this repair but do not have access to a welder.

Well, it's been a couple of years, but I finally got to defrost the up-right freezer today. Seven fair to large sized ice chests to hold all that was in there. Set up a space heater to melt the frost faster, and got er done!!! Am afraid to tell you what was in there. No wonder the shelves are empty at the store. Probably 4 pork roasts, 2 slabs of ribs, multiple pork chops, 5 pork tenderloins, "T" bone steaks, fillet Mignons, rib eyes, 2 prime rib roasts, 8 things of hamburger, 14 lb turkey, breasts, thighs...Johnsonville Brats, home made deer sausage, 2 Corned beef briskets. Now the fish...some bags of Salmon (Lake Michigan), Lake Trout (Lake Michigan) for smoking, Talopia, Walleye, Ocean Perch, Flounder fillets. I'm getting hungry just typing this. Couple of Pizzas, the regular vegetables, and a ton of frozen fruit for smoothies. I am worn out, but the coolers kept every thing frozen...ready for another year.

Yep, I use coffee grounds too Chris For the large garden, we hit up the various Starbucks joints in town. They are glad to give away their used grounds for garden use. @clueless I pressed the submit button, just as I got a phone call asking if I want the coffee grounds from Starbucks! Can’t make this stuff up!

This wasn't a dumpster rescue, but thought I'd share anyway. My Dad's vise on my workbench. Don't know how old it is - the "No.34" you can see is the only info imprinted on it. My guess is that it was either his Dad's or his Grandpa's. I'm going to try to remember to ask him about it next time I talk with him, but he's pushing 90 and is not very lucid a lot of the time... Hopefully, this will end up in my son's shop in a few years, when I'm ready to part with it. If he doesn't want it, my oldest daughter probably will but she doesn't have her own shop yet. (She's a mechanic and Aston Martin restoration specialist, BTW ) I have a few other hand-me-downs, maybe I'll share in another post. I also have lots of salvaged items. I like to say "the best things in life are free, and often found on the side of the road."

I'll second that welcome to the Super C club! It's a fun club to be in, plenty of power, some added versatility, and a whole bunch of unique parts haha. Wait till you get that KT19 running, the sounds the Kohler Twins produce is nothing short of majestic.

It looks like the switch was replaced with an Indak switch. You can still use the switch that you have. According to the diagram, you will only use the "B" terminal (Battery +) and the "S" terminal (Starter solenoid) If by chance that switch has a "M" terminal (magneto kill wire) and a "G" terminal (ground) you could also hook your ignition to shut off with the key.

Same here Richard.......we called it the slop bucket. Now it's a nutrient recycling manufacturing center. BTW, back then when it was a slop bucket, it also served as a fly trap as it had a screen funnel lid that the flys entered but could not exit.

Before tearin g it down, did you try to re-tighten the 5 or 6 bolts holding it together... Worth a try.

I only ask one thing: Please make a video, and put it up here so we can fully enjoy the experience! We pick on short people, fat men, bald men, married people, old people, poor people, stupid people. I don't see the problem. Life is funny, and it should be.

So earlier today, before I was home... I texted the BBT to see what she was upta. I get this: Now last I knew that rig had a hitch on it. Turns out she was swapping out a weak welded hitch for the one I rewelded this past weekend. She also got the ripper spike put on. "Transport mode" so it's upside down.

The first plow day of the year for the Western Pennsylvania Garden Tractor Association is April 30th. Anyone interested in plowing or pulling should go check out their website chapter34.com or WPGTA on Facebook for all the info.They are a good group of people to spend the day with.

He is HCminis here.... longtime collector/restorer member and all around good guy. Can be found on FB too. You aint seen nothin 'till you seen his arti collection. I'm sure John would approve of our horse talk. I'm quite certain he would approve of this......

You mean out of the axle? If so yes it has to come out to replace the seal. Kroil and a small punch or cold chisel to get it moving. The key is expendable and should be replaced anyway. 937108 woodruff key 1/4 x 1 3/8. Tape over the keyway to avoid sharp edges nicking the new seal when installing. Yes file it smooth... one of the reasons the hub comes off hard. I like to file a flat spot there so when it dimples again it's below the round of the axle. To get the seal out carefully drill a small hole in it and thread a sheet metal screw in it to pull it out. Or use your 90 pick to get it out. Either way be careful there is a needle bearing directly behind it. Speaking of that bearing guessing you checked it for up and down play? Eaton 1100 uses a 6449 seal. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/6449-axle-seal-for-hydrostatic-transmission/ This one is not as quite as thick as the original but will work. Just read your post from last year and sorry to hear about your wife. Continued prayers from all of us and hoping time is healing wounds.

From 1920 to 1960 my grandparents owned a small delicatessen/restaurant in downtown. My grandfather had a little over a half acre area he propagated azaleas and camellias on, and my grandmother had a small truck patch. They had a big cypress bin about 12 feet square they would put all the vegetable scraps, egg shells and used coffee grinds in from the restaurant along with dirt and a little chicken manure every now and then and turn it every few days and then move the pile further back in the bin, that was my father job from the time he was 5 till he got married. After they retired and sold the restaurant my grandmother would take the egg shells and coffee grinds from breakfast and dump them in a small spot by her garden till she died. She told me they were two of the best thing to put in your compost, she learned it from her parents from Greece, and the people in Greece had been doing it for hundreds of years. My wife still uses our coffee grinds in her potting mix..

@ri702bill yes have been there , best foreman I ever had was retired navy chief , instantly knew what was going on , and how to cover it , also was the buffer with the " engineers involved ". working in a 24 / 7 production set up , was regularly in , the " we need it now scenario" . was always looking for an option to production output . went to , jack frost sugar, production in ny , for ideas. how about entire screw flights and veri drives , mounted on very large heim joints ? to offset angular wear movements , every unit in the room , was NOT fighting its , mount point ! every unit was swaying and moving with its faults , eliminating wear / failure points . they also , had their vertical conveyors , floating on movable bearings , eliminating , belt failures , what a concept ! ideas we came back with , terrified the engineers , over time we quietly , made the changes , reliability was stabilized , call ins slowed , liked it , pete

I think several folks here have used a Kohler carb on their Techy engines with some success. Somebody will be along shortly with details. As far as fuel goes, you will want to find some without alcohol mixed in. Typical pump gas has somewhere between 10 and 15 %. Alcohol free recreational gas is what you want. The alcohol in the modern gas is what bungs up the old fuel systems that were not designed for it.

I used to get involved designing specialty tools at work on occasion for the Maintenance guys, mostly to speed up reoccurring repairs and minimize downtime. Nothing like having a Production Manager and the Maintenance Manager breathing down your back, acting like a couple of spoiled brats offering to "help" "Is it done yet???" @peter lena - sound familiar???

Not to sure about egg shells but seems like it would help. I have dissolved plain calcium vitamins in water and pour that at the base of my tomato plants when planted. Eliminates blossom rot.

Mine are not show pieces, all workers. But here ya go. I don’t have a pic of the C 175 right now.

That vise got its start by supplying the government for the war effort. After WW2, Wilton struggled for a time till the war surplus was consumed and private industry started buying new. Now they are mostly another importer of junk from you know where.

Look at @stevasaurus videos in the Transmission section. It explains how to properly open a transmission. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/84224-8-speed-5091-manual-wh-transmission/

I am definitely bias, but the Kohler adds twice the reliability as well.

And tell'm "When you nod your head, I'll hit it"

Depending on pictures, I think I would ask a little more...maybe start at $700. I think you might kick yourself if it sold in 10 minutes.

Yup! Better pics tomorrow in the daylight, still working my way home in the dark.

No not bad at all Richard did you miss this thread? I dug it up from the basement and was extremely helpful on my RE-67.

I just added the manual old-style clutch. There is a part number for the whole thing, but it's unlikely you'll see one complete. You'll need the engagement rod, the support bracket, pivot that mounts to the block, and the manual PTO bell and pulley. Sounds like alot, but it isnt. The 3 point was a pretty big build. Most of the components came from a D series. Everything else was fabricated. I had to replace the box under the seat with one made of 1/4 inch plate to provide supports for the pivot.

Thanks . Learning which tasks are “might as well as long as you’re in the neighborhood “ vs. “Don’t touch that unless it falls off” are all uncharted waters for me… after simple engine issues, everything on these tractors are a new challenge. I do most of my own outboard motor repairs with the help of two good service manuals, and YouTube.

John sold me a 603 that I redid about four years ago. I drive to Toledo to pick it up. The picture is an after redo photo. john was always extremely helpful to me at getting information on early tractors . His front weight redo project taught a lot of us about a Wheel Horse part few of us had seen in the original! He was one of best contributions to keeping Wheel Horse going!

@GT14 looks good , makes sense to me , another thing that I have similarly used on all my hitches is the ball hitch , letting me quick swap any of my towable units . good job, pete

First off, I want to thank the warm welcomes from everyone here and the great help! Here are some pictures regarding the electrical on my wheel horse along with a wiring diagram that was provided on here. Seems to me I have way more terminals on my key switch than listed in the wiring.

I just recently got a blind bearing puller kit. It was something to the tune of $70 and should be able to do most anything from truck wheel bearings too tiny bushings. The intent of the purchase was for my diesel injector cups needing to be swapped out soon. Nice creation!

Being in PA there should be quite a few Wheel Horses for slae near you, take a look at what others are asking and then you'll have a better idea of what to ask in your market.

Apparently they did not publish a wire diagram for the 550. Use the wire diagram for the 551. Click on the link below to down load the 401, 551, 701 manual. it has a wire diagram in it for the 551. ( Should be the same as your 550) Only thing that I did not see on the diagram is a switch to kill the engine.

My first (of now four) C160s was in terrible shape. Anything's repairable. A K341 is the king of the single cylinder engines. BEAST.