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So the newly acquired Lawn Ranger for my Granddaughter had a bad engine. No Compression. No problem. Simply pulled one of the NOS K181s off the shelf and with a few modifications it’s all ready.

My Grandpa is turning 90 this year and we have always attended a thrasher show with him that I have been going to with him for the last 20 some years. My goal is to get this wheel horse worthy of the tractor parade to ride through with my son. I appreciate all the help so far.

It's been a long while since I've been to this one but plan to meet @Sparky Mike there this weekend. It was a fairly big show last time and this one is the 47th year https://static1.squarespace.com/static/613f945a0bb45f314509e2cb/t/623defda584b961b4a8ab01e/1648226266253/BACC+Engine+Show+Flyer+2022+PDF.pdf flea market vending will be restricted to items related to the engine and tractor hobbies. Poor Mike won't be able to shop for his doily collection but think he'll still go anyway! I'm glad to see they got rid of the junk trinket crap

RIP big guy. We miss you. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/profile/45-brrly1/content/?type=gallery_image

I miss riling John up picking on his Fords! John was one of 2 non NY members to visit me since I joined the forum.

Hey guys I would like to introduce Rebel the Raider 12. He will be here Saturday or Sunday. First thing I will be doing is putting a light lens on and a stack.

It’s honestly amazing what people throw out. I’ve ended up with vintage chainsaws, tools and power equipment that people were just ready to toss. lots of guys in my age group, (early, middle 20s) end up inheriting vintage iron and they just junk it. They’d rather take the junkyard money and go to the bank. Todays find was a 1940s Wilton bullet vice. A hot ticket item according to my friend who collects such things. I get that not everyone has the space for antique trinkets and whatnot, but even giving it away is better than tossing it. This is American history, they only made this stuff once and once it’s gone it’s gone. Im curious to see the stuff that y’all have saved from the junker. Or even stuff that you were to late to save.

1057 is a good stout tractor. 10hp with a 3 speed tranny. The tractor in your pics has 2 price increasers on it. Rear wheel weights = $150 - $200 for the pair. Center blade = $200 - $300 maybe a little more. These are sought after. In my area maybe $100 for the rest of the tractor. Prices may differ in other areas.

I've read for years how these things tend to multiply and I can attest that that is true, at least for me! I currently have a 416H and a 417A. I use the 416 for mowing and snow blowing duties and the 417 with a 48" front plow. I won't even be able to get it for a month or so.. but, I ended up making an impulsive buy which I rarely have ever done. I bought and paid for a low priced 197X C-160 based on a few pictures and limited knowledge. I used mostly change that I saved up for the past year. All I really know for sure is it's been stored in a shed for many years and it has a... 341? Kohler that smokes some. Plan is to carefully as possible pressure wash it while of course avoiding electrical stuff. Get it running and go over everything on it. I'm excited because even if it's in terrible shape, I'll find a different one and use this for parts! 😆

And tell'm "When you nod your head, I'll hit it"

Awesome tractor for your son! Just make sure to keep that nose weighed down, no need for him to end up under it!

Nawww 100 tops being non runner. I don't make up these rules I just follow them .... well maybe I do.... but the seller doesn't have to know that.

The Obit thread./

Pull the spark plug out, fill the cylinder with transmission fluid, put the plug back in and leave it sit for a few days. Pull the plug back out before trying to turn it over. Might need to use a pipe wrench on the pulley to turn it, don't force it too hard. It will most likely break free. If not, let it sit a little longer & try again. Once it breaks free, spin it to get the tranny fluid out of the cylinder, change the oil clean the carb/fuel system & I bet it will run. This tractor was locked up when I bought it. Went through the above procedure's and have been using it ever since. PS, your neighbors will love it the first time that you fire the tractor up after this procedure. It took a couple minutes for it to completely clear out. Hasn't smoked since.

The worst part is what it would take today to buy some of the stuff we see tossed. If you can even buy the quality of what gets tossed.

Always a good show with plenty to see so if anyone can make it, it's worth the trip. We'll be there on Saturday 5/7. http://www.zagrayfarmmuseum.org/

So earlier today, before I was home... I texted the BBT to see what she was upta. I get this: Now last I knew that rig had a hitch on it. Turns out she was swapping out a weak welded hitch for the one I rewelded this past weekend. She also got the ripper spike put on. "Transport mode" so it's upside down.

My dumpster snorkel and flippers are always on stand by at work. If me or some one I know can use it I'm going in for it.

Had to do the same on my low rider.

That brings tears to my eyes. I love this. We need more people like this in the world. Don

I got the grader blade for 225 thats what I really needed he wanted 200 for the weights Offered 150 Wouldnt take it could’ve gotten the tractor and weights for 350 I didn’t know whether the motor needed rebuilding or what else could’ve needed replacing. I just bought my 2nd 414-8 several weeks ago. Grader blade going on it and plow blade is on the other one. Cool looking tractor though

Yep! A little bit of both! I say that now....I have 3 girls, so I'm sure my dream of a man cave will be short lived between my wife & my girls!

Well, I did it! I put the down payment on a 40x40x14 with attic trusses last week. The prices continued to increase month after month, so I decided I wasn't going to wait another year. I don't see material prices coming down all that much anytime soon. I started to clear the site for a pad with the orange tractor. Removal of the scrub oak is enjoyable b/c it's seat time on the orange tractor! I'll try to remember and start taking pictures along the way.

oh come on Wallfish, your only 327 some odd pages shy of Colossius, this thing is moving like a rocket! Great work cant wait to see what that mind of yours come up with this time

@davern1111, We used to have a Big Ten football pool thread every year. Brrly was one of us guys that looked forward to the season. If you want to have some good reading (at times the thread got real competitive) and see what John was about, check this out. Copy and paste this in the search box. "Big Ten football" use the quotation marks if you just type it. Brrly was born and raised an Iowa Hawkeye fan, but he lived in Toledo for many years. Happy Birthday John...RIP !!! This was one of John's favorites...

Looks like a trigger to me. They are fine as long as they work. Can be pricey for parts but also can be converted back to points and coil.

The square hoods are my favorite model of tractor.

Yes, but the easiest swap would be to have a complete rear end assy. The reason is the plumbing with the filter assy for the charge circuit on the 1100 is needed. As a bonus, it would be a great opportunity to install a hydraulic lift. This would require the valve, cylinder, hoses and the rock shaft that accommodates the attachment of the cylinder. A doner roller works nicely in these cases. One nice thing is the hydro control linkage will work with a little adjustment. Eaton 700 Hydro Linkage. Eaton 1100 hydro control linkage

John welcome to RS, The very first step in this process is to ensure there are no mechanical problems. Loose bad wheel hubs. keys. etc. Having someone drive the machine and observe the axle in the center of the hub those axles should move as one with the hub. Can even chain it to a object and put it under a load. Also take off the cover and clean around the linkage and make sure proper operation. If you suspect the hydro being a problem. The Eaton 700 uses two complete separate compartments for oil and lubrication. The hydro has its own reservoir, (located on top of the hydro pump), and recycles a small amount of oil (about a quart of 10w-30) through the pump and back to the reservoir. The gear drive area is separate and the oil there is splashed and tracked through the case to lube the gears/bearings. (As a note; the Eaton 1100 combines these two functions and uses a common sump oil for both hydro and gearcase. With the hydro oil being filtered) Getting back to your issue. I have found the oil used in the hydro will in time get water and contaminated. When you open the cap on the reservoir, the oil will look good but lurking below they can have moisture. You can change the oil in the Eaton 700 hydro but it is not easy. On the bottom side of the hydro pump is a o'ring plug. The plug is not easy to get to but can be removed. I included a pic of this plug. location etc. I made up a thin wrench but a chisel and hammer offering a few taps will loosen the plug. Once it is loose the o'ring plugs screw out pretty easy. If your oil looks like this, I would change it twice and change it after It is warmed it up. Hope this helps. Bad oil from Eaton 700 The dirt on the side of the container was there just showing the oil in the bottom of the pan. This oil came out of a 1000 plus hour hydro. Plug location. Plug removal Draining note the water in oil. Plug removed

I could teach you, but I'd have to bring my daughter along.

Yup, that's it thanks. Someday I'll learn how to do that....well...maybe not

After missing out on 2 C195’s over the past couple years, I finally brought one home tonight. A hour and a half drive, and $250 later it was in the back of my truck on the way home. It definitely needs work, but I think I did alright. No 3 point, unfortunately. I plan on doing a refurb on it, but it will have to go to the back of the line for now. I can’t wait to get to it. With the C 195, my black hood collection is almost complete. The pictures aren’t the best, I will get it unloaded tomorrow night and take more.

I hear ya @WHNJ701 my sentiments exactly. Guy runs out of room to hold crap then off it goes. As soon as you get rid of it you could use it ain't that right Randy @rjg854! I think I found a work around tho... offer it free to a good home and make some friends. I was just brought up to not waste anything and eat what's on yer plate so to speak. People starvin for vises in China ya know mom used to say. Well maybe not vises but you get it. Still hard to kick the dumpster diving habit. Ain't that right @Achto Nice vise here right? ... dumpster picked.....

So on the flip side.... You can't expect people to save and or hang onto every family tool or heirloom. After grandparents on my side and wife side passed on we had to clean out the barns and garages and the burdon was put on me to "keep" all the mechanical, tools, hardware.... Etc etc.... Honestly I don't need 3 or 4 or 12 of everything. On another note. Yes I used to sell online ebay, craigslist, FB. The market has really changed it's very difficult to sell old stuff anymore. Nobody wants it, dealing with scammers and no shows. Have a garage sale? Why so I can waste my day trying to sell items for 5 bucks and get jerked around offers of 2 dollars. So yes it's easier to stick stuff by the curb or take it to the dump. If I can't give it away to friends that's where it goes.

Oh Balls last man standing!

Yeah man ... YOU tell BBT that. I don't care if she calls our new building "my this" or "my that". I. Izz. Not. Arguing.

At first, because @ebinmaine said it, I was thinking: But, then I saw @kwalshy has four bosses, so i think you’re gonna need a sign like this:

Made up some shock mount brackets and attached them to the axles and re-did the Ackerman angles for the steering arms. Those angles had to change because the steering will now connect in the front instead of behind the spindles. Did a bunch of work on it but it basically still looks like the pic above without the clamps so no real updates. Waiting for some parts to arrive like heim joints Hoping to get that front end done by pecking away at it this week and then move on to the drive system. Considering turning the engine 90 deg but that means a tunnel down the middle with a driveshaft to the rear and a gear box or 2. The look of the engine turned 90 looks better to me but it makes for a more complex drive line set up with more points of failure too.

Not much to know. 1967 & little bro to a 1067 & a very capable tractor. Bullet proof transmission & very easy to work on. I'd flash 400 in green backs at him for the whole rig and have it loaded and before he come to his senses and knew what hit him. If that's the one the guy is askin 250 for I'd be all over that fer sure. Basically buying the weights & blade and getting the tractor for free. Like Dan said that locked up motor wouldn't bother me abit it's a Kohler. Just my

Here are the pictures of the tags. I don't have a great picture of the whole wheel horse since I'm at work currently but I can certainly get more tonight. All the electrical on the wheel horse has been taken a part and has a electric start that I would like to get going again along with a new carb/ air filter. It runs just not great.

I agree with everything Joe said, and I am positive that he has much more experience than I do with these hydros and transaxles. However, I do have a recent Eaton 700 experience that I think is worth sharing. I'm hoping you can solve your problem with just a drain and refill of the hydro, but if that doesn't work, some of this may help. I have a 312-A that had gradually, then completely, lost any movement from the hydro. I got a used replacement pump, pulled the old one, and mounted the new one. I filled the oil reservoir and let it sit for a few days. Some oil went in but not much. I tried turning the pulley some, off and on, and a little more oil went in. After about a week, I fired up the engine and engaged the pulley - nothing. Some helpful people here, and mostly @Handy Don suggested that maybe the pump didn't actually have enough oil in it and that expecting to fill it from the reservoir might not work. I removed the pump again, and removed the small drain plug on the bottom next to the large plastic one (that one is stuck on mine so I left it alone). Drained the pump, and only about a half cup of oil came out along with a little water. I left it to drain for a few days (probably overkill but I had other things to do). Then (and I think this is the important part...), with the reservoir attached and closed, I turned the pump upside down and started adding oil through the small drain hole with a funnel. Every so often, I turned both the pulley and the drive gear, and more oil went into the pump. After repeating this process for a while, it seemed that the pump was not going to take any more oil so I replaced the plug and re-installed the pump on the tractor. Voila! It works now. Note: It was a pain removing the original pump, mainly because the gasket had become more like a "weld". I had to use a very hard steel blade slipped into the gap where the gasket is and hammer on it carefully for a while before it would separate. If you're going to try this approach, order a new gasket in advance - it took about 10 days to get mine. Good luck! The thread about my hydro is here:

Joe thanks for the feedback provided and the pics. I will dig into it and see if I can find a solution to my problem. John

Could be both depending on things. The plate we see on the shroud will tell all. Get us a pic when you get her home. Looks to be a repoed '68 or '69. Nice patina and strait sheet metal! Front rims not lookin too healthy tho. May be chlorides?

It should fit if you have the mid mount attach. Might need a different lift lever depending on the tractor rockshaft. Not familiar with a 414's. Angle is changed by the lever sticking out the side. Lift it up move the blade then lock it back down. Has three positions. Price is somewhat fair as these are a desirable implement and getting harder to find. I have seen them sell for upwards of 300.

I talked to the guy - I didn't ask, but I think he is a groundskeeper for either a golf course, cemetary, or something like that. The 325D is only a partial machine, missing the hydro pump and a bunch of other stuff. He said the engine does still run though. He said he has a 345 (gasoline - 4 cyl., 2WD) that is complete with mower deck for about $1500. He has several newer Toro machines that he uses regularly. I wonder if that diesel would fit on a 300 or 400 series frame.... Oh well, it's fun to dream. I need some more parts for the tractors I have, and I've been toying with getting a bigger project, like a Ford 8N or Jubilee. We have 32 acres and I need something that can handle a brush hog. Actually, I just remembered that my Dad's old 9N is still sitting behind my brother's barn in NJ. I don't think it has moved in 10-15 years. I can probably pick one up in better shape nearby than it would cost to ship that one out here to Indiana though....

Nope. Sorry my friend. That's a She-shed.

I’ve mowed a few times with the 875 now and this tractor is a lot of fun to operate. Once the weather warms up a bit I’m going work on polishing the patina. I really like the finish on it given it’s a flood rescue.

That ID tag is from a 1960 Suburban. If yours has the 5.5hp Tecumseh, this would make it Suburban 550. It should have electric start with the battery under the seat. The 1960 Suburban 400 would have had a pull start 4hp Kohler.