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Got into the wheel horse bug a while back with my first purchase of a GT-14 needing serious attention. Kept building the "herd" with 2 C -120 Hydros, then the 416-8 and finally my "crown jewel" C-160 Hydro with hydro lift. Accumulated a Brinley plow, push blade, mower decks and tiller. Not sure why... just seemed the right thing to do. All became clear to me the day I recently took the C-160 with the plow to my new garden plot. Followed up with the C-120 and blade to knock the tops off the furrows. Finished with the 416 - 8 and tiller! Did it all in record time, had a hoot doing it and never had to change an implement! Other C-120 still has the mower deck attached waiting for summer duty. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it! Thanks to all the great support and advice from all the folks here on the Red Square.

8-9 years ago, a neighbor approached me asking if I could repair a tractor blade he used for clearing snow from his driveway. He'd heard from another neighbor that I did a little welding as a hobby and had repaired the pulley mounts on his mower deck. What he brought over was an overly worn blade, wear strip down past the mounting bolts on one end and mostly untouched on the other. Rather than simply weld the wear strip and let the ABUSE continue (LOL), I built the blade back to mostly square and then put it back together. At the time, that work earned me a $60 Applebees gift card. Fast-forward to last weekend; that work payed future dividends. That neighbor has retired and moved out of state. Last weekend I heard a small engine running outside. He brought me a new / old toy. A gift for the extra care I gave his machine. I now own a mid 80's 310-8 that I know nothing about! Thanks for the resources and I hope to learn much!

I use this:

It’s late for Saturday or Sunday side show but posting anyways!! Hope you enjoy!

As long as your Wheel Horse addiction isn't preventing your family from living under a roof and having nutritious meals you don't need an excuse.

In my opinion ANY motor oil on the shelf today is comparable to or better than what was out there a half century ago. I use the house brand Tractor Supply 30 diesel motor oil. Diesel motor oil has more Zink anti-wear additives.

A couple more photos will have to get some more sometime

Yes indeed @ebinmaine, we developed an appropriately complex yet accurate mathematical equation that utilized integrated derivative quantitative algorithmic analysis to determine precisely the number of ‘s necessary to maintain an adequate and stable herd. Unfortunately, I painted over the equation using the math cards to protect the tires on my last set of rims… To summarize - buy another implement and two ‘s to use it, then repeat.

Boy… I sees you only gots one taillight there boy… maybees you not from these parts, but weez require two, yes two, taillights… so’s what we got here is a complete lack of respect for the law…

So it's been a while since the parts pile has been picked and piled up for some assembly of something/anything. Been get'n the urge to build something for a long while now so here we go again. Hopefully something new to bring to the big show. This was a project @19richie66 started a long time ago and it's about time it got some luv. The most difficult part for me is just getting it started. But typically once it gets going, time is then somehow found to put into it. -Probably gonna make this a fast one and use low 2nd or 3rd for cruise'n shows. -Front suspension and possibly rear suspension too if my idea works.

Thank you Pete, I am 14 years old and am always trying to collect tips from my pap and dad. I am very fortunate to have access to them and learn. I have been driving tractors since I was two starting on the c160 and then I got the cub when I was 8. I hook up the trailer and load stuff for the shows and my dad just hauls me. I will be fixing three more wheel horses of a friends soon and will have to put some pictures up.

At the big show a while ago Last thing I want is the belt to slip there on the trans or any where else. That's part of the issue when speeding these up with using a small pulley on the trans and already been there a few times. There will be a jack shaft and belts between the engine and trans and maybe a torque converter . I have no problem at all using a chain there Split axles off the sides of the frame rails and coil over shocks for the suspension 18 hp Onan B48 is set on there for now but could change. Thinking about using a drive shaft to a gear box, maybe. So it can be turned 90 deg. I do have a K321 14hp, K301 12hp, think there's also a 16hp out there and maybe another 8hp to pick from. I don't think a K91 would smoke those wide tires Had them mocked up like that in the past but the curve of the blade isn't an exact match for the radius of the tires and it kinda looked funny. However I may not keep it as tight to the tires this time but still thinking about it. Might look OK by cutting one in half length wise and going 1.5 blades

70 bucks might have been a half a weeks wages in the day and little Squonky needs new shoes!

At the time an API rating of SC was the newest/highest quality. As oil has improved over the years, the API rating has progressed to show the improvements. SF, SG, SH, SJ, etc. With this given info, even though the lubricating and suspension quality has improved one thing that has decrease is the level of zinc used (EPA mandates). Diesel oils retain more zinc content. You can also add a zinc additive to your oil, if you wish. https://www.amazon.com/Rislone-4405-Supplement-Concentrate-Treatment/dp/B0075559UY/ref=asc_df_B0075559UY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312198323731&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13449251567463005992&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=pla-567498281214&psc=1

Picked up a 56" blade and frame for D series. Figured with some tweeking I could mount it on my GT14. Would need significant hacking to make it work. The whole pivot mount would have to be removed as it would come up against the foot plates. Would also have to move the lift point forward. I do not like to butcher things that aren't widely available. My D200 is has an FEL so I can't use it on there. Soooo thinking about putting the 56" blade on a Charger 12 that currently has a 54" Blade. I didn't realize how much bigger 2" was. May have to switch some snow horses around so I get an Electro 16 hooked up to it. Still would like this blade on the GT-14 so I put a want ad for just a GT-14 plow frame.

Hello all, I joined not long ago as I have a 1996 314-H that I purchased new. It has around 250 hours on it and has been sitting idle for years. It's in excellent condition except that everything was factory including belts, blades, fuel line, tires etc. The hydro was jerky when going into forward and reverse so it has sat for a few years. I worked inside the wheel horse offices in South Bend before and at the time Toro purchased them in the late 1980"s. I would attend the national lawn and garden show then in Louisville every year and it was obvious Toro had no intention of continuing the Wheel Horse line with the same quality. I recall seeing the old solid product line displayed way off in the corner of the Toro outside display area. This is why I made my purchases before they went away. I have been concerned about finding someone with the knowledge and care to work on my tractor. The alternative was to sell it for whatever I could get. Finally I sent it off for a full refresh and hydro adjustment and it came back yesterday and seems like new. I cannot wait to use it. Cost was $1600 to replace all the original parts noted and smooth out the hydro. Feel like I did the right thing because I don't think I could have replaced it with a unit with the same quality for the price. Thanks for letting me tell my story. I wanted to share my excitement and I cannot wait to mow etc. with it again once this Ohio weather breaks. Mike

Didn't we settle this last week?

Now let's just not be getting too silly here....

Yazell. Finding attachments for a 520 is usually not a problem its paying the price for what sellers want. The tiller can be off any 3, 4, or 500 series tractor but you will need the axle bracket and rear rockshaft kit plus the rear cable. If looking for a tiller make sure all the pieces are there like the mid mount belt tensioner is with it. Things have a way of getting lost when a guy takes off an implement. As Dan said a Brinly style hitch will fit right on but again you will need a rear lift cable and the tube it slides in. These were not standard on a 520 so many do not have them. They are available aftermarket but this is where things can start adding up price wise. Keep an eye on CL and if you FB their marketplace and you will find a tiller. One can probably make another brand work but it would be a pain. This is what's needed to run a tiller. plus the axle bracket which is available there too. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-rock-shaft-kit-for-hydro-transmission-with-tube-bracket-long-clevis-read-description/

I actually just acquired this 875 from @ELECTRORIC yesterday. Ric always does a great job in his work. I've already cut grass for the first time with this Horse and cuts very nice! It's a lot of fun to drive.

Now you need another for the other side. You have it all unbalanced. going to be a pain to drive like that.

I never had a belt slip on any of my tractors. The safety slip clutch has always been between the rubber and the road. In fact, to test the drive train of new tractors, I chain them to a tree and make sure they can spin the tires.

You probably need to spend a bit more time on cleaning and tightening ALL electrical connections including grounds. Any corrosion at any point in the wiring will act as a big old resistor and drop the voltage. Here is a step by step process for checking each component to isolate the problem. Please don't skip any steps. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch? Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

Also added new LED tail lights to the 520-H.

Well guys look what I have now. I haven't payed for it yet but it's pretty much mine. Just got to get it here.

Whichever one you like best.

Looks like you do shows too Cub.... check out this section and you'll find shows from all over the world. Many of us here exhibit at shows. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/84-show-pictures/ More than welcome to come do recon in the magic parts shed Joe. Two things tho you want to walk out you have to walk in backwards and you you might get pressed into cleaning it out!

Sorry we don’t really have a good picture of the c160 but a JD H, JD 955, gilson 53073, 1957 Farmall cub, 1962 cub cadet original, 1979 cub cadet 1250. Pap has ford 8n, international 424 the 502 that is not stock in picture, 2 cub cadet originals, 2 cub cadet 1650s, a couple wheel horse parts tractors, Case 195 non running, John deere 110 rf, 2 cub cadet 1641s, John deere 70 lawn tractor.

I’ve always been a “motors are electric” guy. To the point that when I watch one of my automotive shows and my wife is with me, she will often point out when they call an engine a motor. So now, even if I wanted to call an engine a motor, my wife would just have another reason to correct me, lol.

Pre-teens EB ... wished I coulda stayed pre-teens would have ALOT more money for tractors!

When you go to look at a tiller check the tines. If the ends are pointed they are worn out and replacement is hideously expensive...

But where to mount the whip antenna for the racoon tail?

Mike... fine looking there! Ones like that is what I would drool over when visiting dealers with dad! A 4 or 500 series in a dealer showroom made me forget all about girls!

So if my Dad spent an extra $69 and got a 7 HP Kohler instead of the 6HP Tecky I wouldn't have had to replace engines 4 times in 13 years!

It was in my original plan.

I have never owned a Wheel Horse with the idiot lights and since you have been ignoring them in the past I don't see why you are concerned about them now. It starts and runs and the safety switches work, be happy!

Just excellent. We'd love to see pics when you can. @SylvanLakeWH Jim has some great thoughts on the minimum number of Wheelhorse tractors that should be in the herd. I believe we discussed minimum 2 tractors per available implement so there would always be a spare for maintenance. That's not an excuse. It's a legitimate reason. And I'm sticking to that. 😀

I'm no painter either, but I'll share my experience... 2nd coats: either within 60 mins or no less than 24 hours later. If sanding between, absolutely no less than 24 hours later. I'd wait at minimun a couple days before taping the hood. It's not just the tape pulling paint to keep in mind, it's all the touching the paint that will be an issue. Blue painter's tape is fine. Green frog tape is better. Stuff paper towels into the headlight holes to keep overspray out from under the hood. Wrap everything top and bottom in newspaper or paper towels to keep out overspray as well. And I've always been told that darker colors go on after lighter ones. Otherwise it takes multiple coats to cover the black. You did it right, trust me!

...and if either machine is down for any reason- except for the GT14, you can swap implements. But yes, you're absolutely right!

I really wish those front tires were still available. Today's 4x8 tires are closer to 3 inches wide. My 867 just doesn't look right with skinny front tires...

It's certainly possible and there's a couple already in stock. That's kinda my signature 2 seater style so we'll see

Will there be a snow plow blade used? I think I know where you could find one.

Here to watch the master at work.

All great guesses, but I knew no body would get it. Guess it's time to let you all in on it's purpose. It is something really simple yet it turned out great in my opinion. What is it?? It is a fixture to hold my mini maker light that I am using as a tail light.

Used the sleeve hitch and tiller lift chain on the 418-A to move th 60" deck from storage to the garage to get ready to install on the 520-H. IMG_1254.mp4

Don't have any photo's unfortunately. I worked for the finance company and we floor planned the inventory to all their dealers but I was on-site and interacted with the management and sales staff. I believe the president was John Munn who as I recall with part of AMC when they owned Wheel Horse. He and others took it private as I recall then later sold it off to Toro. The plant and office were on Ironwood Ave. and it was a very solid operation and so were the folks there.

The BBT and I started clearing the new garden site of roots rocks and sticks. We hooked up the Ripper Spike on her 8(10)56 Military Tribute Tractor Millie and she dragged it around the area for awhile. We uprooted the roots. Dug up the rocks. Pulled out the sticks. After that she continued with the process by hand. We also took the plow and weighted rear tires off the 75 C160 Automatic.

I had these too. I got them with the 856 and the 500 Special I pulled from the weeds.

I suppose next build is gonna have bullet tails & fender fins!