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Not necessary, but it's your money. Quality gear oils have emulsifiers and anti rust additives. Those oils will suspend the water and still lubricate within reason. 1 percent was the threshold for me on oil change outs during my career. Of course we sampled routinely. The quantity of water in your oil drain is well above that level. As Pete was saying prevention is the solution. Limit the areas the water can enter and checking on a frequent basis is the best. As with your story, and most of us here, we inherit the problem from a careless owner. And voila.....rusty watery oil=more work. The after pic of that case after some TLC.

Ditch the factory fenders and go custom.

Our friend Jeff has been busier n' a one armed wallpaper hanger with an itchy back. He asked me to post up a few pics of a yellow jacket nest he found around the ranch. 5 gallon bucket for size reference...

Hmmmmm

I want to thank everyone again for the help in making a hard decision. The C-120 is now en route to its new home. A very nice gentleman named Keith is its new caretaker. He's really enthused about it. It's his first Wheel Horse. I'm sure he'll be joining the forum.

For new to me engines, if turning it over by hand doesn't reveal any issues, and there is sufficient oil, and the oil doesn't have water or other visible particles/rust/contamination, I'll run it for a short while while testing the transmission as well as the engine. Changing the oil now and then finding you need to get into the engine and drain it out is a waste of oil (and if it's a pressure oil tractor, a waste of a filter). Once I know it's ready to keep the oil, I'll change it.

Not neglected, running, with a good deck, and good tiller maybe $1000 or a bit more. I suspect he's thinking about the buying power of a dollar when he bought it--WHs were pricey--and extending that to today.

Now that's a Quit Messing Around Tow Vehicle

You raider only has 1" 4 pinion they are tough but not invincible. Bigger fatter tires are more stress... be careful with the chain jerking....

You’re asking a guy with a school bus in his yard about overkill. I’m not sure if my answer will be credible.

I picked up a 70 GT-14 and a 1054 this winter and started checking them over today. I pulled the spark plugs and added about a tablespoon of Marvel mystery oil into the cylinder. Also washed them off and lubed the choke and throttle cables. The GT 14 cables came free and were working but the 1054 were being stubborn. My next move is to drain the old gas from the GT 14 and replace the fuel line, filter and spark plug. The oil is dirty but full, should I change the oil before I attempt to start it or get it going and warm the oil to drain? After I get it running I will move on to the hydro trouble shooting, brake and then tires.

On these old engines they need help if they're tired, so I started using this additive in the oil with good results so far. Read up on it. Take your time and enjoy them.

If you have any doubt about the quality of the oil that is in those engines, It is only a two quart deal. Get some regular Wally world 10w-30 and then run it. $5 Put the good stuff in later.

They don’t put up much a fight after dark, with a 20 oz bottle of petro and a lighter…. But when I attacked ‘em with a shovel one tie they got awnry awful quick!

For that price no restoration ought to be needed. It’s unlikely anybody here would pay anything near that. Offer to restore it if he gives it to you, lol. Post a pic if you have one. What accessories?

Believe me fellas, it’s crossed my mind!

@ oliver 2-44, agree with the long time oil drain , personally , I don't understand how you can do that . pointed that out to a guy that was hoping to sell an old horse , black oil was barely on the stick, trans was full of water, tires were shot seat was gone , battery dead , did not seam to care , said it was a wheel horse , emphasis on " was a wheel horse , " not for me , pete

I pull an open trailer and it only stays hooked up the first evening. Once the trailer is unloaded at the showgrounds I unhook and leave it in the trailer parking area. Whatever I bring stays under the easy-up shade tent and the keys stay in the ignition switch of the tractor. No one has ever messed with anything during the show.

A bit of a Barbarian, I am. Find it, see it, kill it. Snakes, mean stinging insects, snakes, skunks, snakes, termites, snakes, spiders….. You get the point. Dave

Those ground dwellers are short tempered ! If you happen to see the 1 or 2 “guards” at the nest entrance you are lucky… Was cutting my aunts grass one time and felt a needle sting me in my back calf… took off running… luckily only one sting. The lawn mower sat there and ran out of gas. After they settled down, a 16 oz Coke bottle full of gas turned bottom up in the nest entrance took care of them…

That doesn’t add up to $3K. Restoring the deck, or even replacing with used, is costly. If I had a grandson interested in it I’d probably give it him as a gift if he promised to fix and take care of it. Ask him why he’s such an avaricious old cheapskate! Be sure to let us know how that works out for you! Oh, and

He's your grand father, he should be GIVING it to you. You know, to keep it going for another generation.

Yeah 3K is way too high. Even 1K is pushing it.

Pictures, we need pictures! Without them and unless it’s in mint condition I’m going to say $3000 is much too high.

Part of today’s view, heading to a job.

If the idiot wants to blow himself up I have no problem with that. But please put the dogs in a safe place first!

How about a muscle car before the term was popular? 64 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible, 426-S with pwr steering, pwr brakes, pwr windows & top. White with Bermuda Torquoise/powder blue interior.

Nothing short of perfection

Worked on 52xi deck that showed up last week. Needs some TLC I am starting out small and working my way around it. Anti scalp wheels first. Had to install new shafts as well as the wheels. Used 5/8 bolts for shafting material. Since you guys like pictures

I convinced myself that I understand the situation from a simpler position: Creatures that bite, sting, or even mark a boundary will use the most lethal force they can individually or collectively muster to attack an intruder. As such, I reserve the right to apply the same principals to an intruder on my territory. End of discussion.

Here it is running. Smokes a bit while it's in gear. Thanks to everyone for your help.

Couple?? Pullstart!! Eleventeeourteen eeeeaasy

Thank you I appreciate that are you new to the forum Jim? Also me and my buddy are dialing it back on hooking chains up and going crazy something always breaks

The spacers are 5 lugs on 4 1/2" bolt circle you need Jeep spacers with the largest center hole I don't remember the actual size As to the actual largest tire diameter I can't say as I don't have a Raider. If you are changing WH bolts to studs and lug nuts they are 7/16" fine thread will need full treads. The spacers will be 1/2" studs and the wheels need to be drill out to at least 17/32" to be able to remove them easily. You Can Not Move the Hubs out. Wheel Horse centered the hubs on the center of the Woodruff Key moving the hub will cock the key and the hub is free to slide. It will destroy the hub and axle key way.

Good way to help clean out an engine if it hasn't had an oil change in a long time.

Wider tires will help with stability and definitely look cool some run ATV tires instead of super lugs Traction is about weigh be sq inch of tire on the ground and the type of ground your on. So wider tires by them self may or may not improve traction, typically not. For the wider tires to improve traction you need to add weight such as tubing them and filling them with rv antifreeze, a product called Rimguard, etc. You can also add steel weights. You also need to go with wider rims so the tread is flat on the ground. Significantly wider tires on stock rims will result in a rounded lug (so possible even less tread on ground than normal) Weights that bolt on the rim are the best as they don't put extra load on the rear axle bearings, but they are pricey You can bolt weights inside or outside the frame in front of the transmission but they add a cracking stress to the transmission mount which might need to be reinforced For the off road trail riding your doing their is a balance of how much weight. While weight will improve traction on dry or slightly soft ground, it will also sink you deeper in wet muddy spots that you might float over with less weight With the addition of weight, skinny tires will improve traction on dry or slightly soft ground since they put the most weight per sq in of tire on the ground. So its not as simple as throwing wider tires on them

Hi Dave, Good to hear from you. Hope you and family are well. Soon time to head your way to Sand Patch to chase a gobbler. My kill list is a little different. In general, I only kill (harvest) what I eat.....with a few exceptians. spotted lantern flies stink bugs moles ground hogs and raccoons that decimate the sweet corn and cabbage house flys and centipedes in the house mean bees sparrows that invade my blue bird boxes stray felines that spray my garden

Thanks for the quick reply, I just saw them for sale mounted on wheel horse rim's, says like new for 150 and they are close to me, figured I’d offer 100 and go from there.

I'm sensing you don't like termites very much.....?

The connection from the rock shaft to the three point will need to be very stout. Perhaps some one inch schedule eighty mechanical tubing or some square tubing with a three sixteenth wall. Anything lighter probably will bend over time. Probably want to beef up the extension on the rock shaft too.

Third times a charm…

The guys got you covered… led’s no problem. BTW - Regarding not knowing or applying Ohms law, no worries… they’re letting everyone out of jail who has been convicted of violating it, and are expunging their records… you’ll be fine.

Sounds like a good plan. The Sundstrand hydro has no external mechanical brakes, when the motion control is moved to neutral the tractor stops. There is an internal parking brake but they are usually no longer working because previous owners didn't come to a full stop before setting the brake. The choke cable looks a bit long anyway. Your best bet may be to take both of the cables off and give them a good long soaking bath in some deasil fuel while work progresses on the GT-14.

These are the components to my new drive and clutch system. Top left is part of the winch spool after being sliced in two. To the right of that is my clutch facing. It will get glued and screwed to the spool. The clutch facing is actually material from a bowling lane. At the end of the lane a 2 wooden structures on either side of the lane. They are called kickbacks. This is what the pins and ball bounce off of after impact. They are made of hard maple. While maple is a relatively hard wood, it wouldn't last long on it's own. They are covered with plates, that are made of a phenolic material. I can't tell you much about it, except it's hard. Very, very hard. I machined these pieces the same way as the steel. With my saw-zall and side grinder. As I said, it is HARD !To the right of that is the drive pin from the winch. If it weren't for that spin on the end, I believe I could make my own spool, but I have no way of machining that. under the spool is a 3/16 by 3 1/2 steel plate. I guess you would call it the pressure plate. It has 8 bolts going through it to adjust pressure between the two phenloic plates. Below that is the other half of the spool, the chain sprocket, and sprocket hub. Everything is at the weld shop right now to get welded all together. I have no way to weld the aluminum spool back together. Once I have it back on the tractor, I believe I know what's bound to happen. We shall see.

@Skwerl58 , read your attempted cable recovery , I use teflon based super lube with very good results , another thing you might try is after mounting the cables back in mount point , hook the end pull point up to a small firm extension spring , that will let you verify its function with added lubricant on your movement pull. like having a 3rd arm helping your cable return . have this set up om my 3 horses , on the cable end to lever point . makes cables work like butter . https://www.bing.com/search?FORM=UP97DF&PC=UP97&q=smal+alligator+clip+test+wires all my cables have this small spring pull assist , with a lubricant added , they work without effort , just an idea , pete

Make a form and pour epoxy resin around it.

Queen hornets/yellow jackets will leave the nest in the winter too. they go hibernate underground or under tree bark etc... They don't reuse the same nest.

@stevebo Thanks for the suggestion and the compliment. All my attachments will be used on this hitch. I'll have the lift and a fixed receiver to pull my trailers. I thought about moving the hydraulic cylinder like @953 nut did on his project, but this seemed to be the easiest and less expensive way for me. Jay