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Hi everyone I just wanted to update everyone and say I just got another raider 10 1972 model 10301 although a bit rough around the edges and needing some small odds and ends and a good service I think I’ll get good use out of it. I believe it now when you guys say once you have one you gotta have more. I got the wheel horse fever

Picked up my 754 hood today from my welder Russ. He has done several of these new fronts for me on the old round hoods that have rust outs or breaks in front bottom of the hoods. Will Patton makes the plate and a half inch band to weld on these old hoods and I have purchased several from him. They are very good and mimic the originals. I also have my welder add more plate on the interior bottom of the old hoods to strength the overall hood as it sits in the front of the tractor frame. Only need to change the head and head gasket on my 754 as the next project! what I started with on the 754 hood.

Removal of traditional cast adhesive back vinyl lettering is tedious work at times. the longer they have been on the more work required to remove. Heat gun and plastic blades worked best for me but the vinyl eraser wheels come in handy and can save time. Removing adhesive residue is also fun. I use Rapid remove. a bit cashy but my favorite.

Nope Carlisle Tru Powers, got a heck of a deal on them ...all four for a tad less than 200. I do like the farm specials Tho Sun what sun?!?!? Was very cold out when I did those so in front of the wood stove for an hour.

Got the E 141 put back together. Rides nice on the new tires.

Got an order for ya @Vinylguy!

One of these will take them off with out damaging the paint. Wipe any left over residue off with charcoal lighter fluid. Used this system a lot in the body shop. https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Remover-Graphics-diameter-threaded/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=asc_df_B00063VT0G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9858868061728198000&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=pla-451421021261&psc=1

Fill it with diesel and drive it around in all gears for awhile to flush it out. Then drain and refill with gear oil. At least you had milky oil. When you pull the plug on one and only get clear water you really cringe.

I love looking back and seeing this

My 867 just has a mechanical ... no primer. 857 has a vacuum. Me thinks it was whatever on the assembly line that day in no particular year & whatever they had the most of to use up. Damn the spec # who's gonna know & it will run just fine it's new. Just get it crated the Ponds need motors. Same with a dealer repair in the day when dealers stocked pumps. A conversation in 1966. Small Engine Mechanic Frank: Hey parts guy I need a mechanical fuel pump Parts Counter Guy Harry: We're out of them use a vacuum one... will work fine last a long time.

Around here, somehow over the years and 3 generations of family WH owners, the hand lever has always been referred to as "The Twicker" , as in "Don't forget to use the twicker before starting the 702."

Laid some more paint down on the running boards, belt guard, and left side panel. All I have left to paint is the hood ( more sanding to be done ), and the air cleaner box… I think… Now that I painted the parts, next pull weeds in the flower beds…

15 amps is what ran 70 watts of incandescent headlights with out a problem. LED will not tax it at all.

Now if that ain't the best idea you never had! Put a decal by it!?!?!

My wife says I still have my birthday money from when I was a kid! Not Ture, just from high school!

I have no idea when the primer lever fuel pumps were offered on Wheel Horse but my 1055 had one when I bought it as did a couple of the 953s. Seems like the mid-1960s was the end of the line for that type of pump. I have used them on later models also but now I'm using electric fuel pumps on everything except "Faithful Restorations". Here is what I could find on Miller's site. The purpose of the older and now obsolete OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump with the manual hand lever (thin metal piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually prime the pump and refill the carburetor with gas by working the lever by hand than it would to crank the engine for a long time so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with a rope or recoil starter! It also saves wear and tear on the electric starter motor from cranking the engine for a long time, which could eventually burn up the starter or drain the battery. FYI - Virtually of all of Kohler's single cylinder cast iron block and opposed twin cylinder engines come with a lobe on the camshaft to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no provision on the side of a [single cylinder] block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, a 3/4" center hole and two 1/4" bolt holes can be drilled, and the 1/4" holes tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads to mount a mechanical fuel pump. Use a fuel pump mounting gasket as a templet to drill the holes

If I had a paint department, the Work Horse would be Powder Pink !

Awesomeness is VERY HARD for me… if I can achieve mediocre, I’ll be happy !

Never heard of “hood paint “… I will do my best to sand carefully and try not to get the runs, but like all the previously painted pieces, the hood will probably have at least a bug and some dust specs… I can’t help it… I have to know my limitations…

Until the Mrs. tells you to come in . JK .

Replaced the boot a couple days ago yes it’s jacked up in the front as far as the floor jack will go Diesel fuel won’t hurt it??? I have some left over when I had a jd 455 kinda wish I hadn’t sold it but it was taking up too much space i didn’t have a garage built then. I do now

Even if the boot is OK, you will still get some condensation in the trans, especially if it is outside, or in a un-heated garage or shed.

That’s not uncommon for a trans that got water in it… is the shift boot shot? If yes I’d replace it to keep water out… Also when you drained it did you raise the front end up? Helps get all the oil out… Id run it around for a few and then drain again… get the crap out…

Me and my buddy are also slowly but surly converting his grandpa from a John Deere man to a wheel horse man

Oh yeah well I just took care of that from now on I can store all my horses at my buddy’s place for free

Give ya the benefit of the doubt Sylvia and call you financially challenged or better yet thrifty.

Sweet........tire iron mittens, great idea. I got the perfect place to get a set (neighbor left a set of girly size leather gloves here, I will have to give them a Michael Jackson look) @WHX?? I like to leave the tires out in the sun if possible to soften them up a bit too. Those look like Farm Specials, tough tire strong sidewalls. I have an old axle with a old hub that I bolt the rear wheels on for mounting. I stick it in the vise

Our friend Jeff has been busier n' a one armed wallpaper hanger with an itchy back. He asked me to post up a few pics of a yellow jacket nest he found around the ranch. 5 gallon bucket for size reference...

Happy birthday 857 lover or as I call you… Monky. Cause we always seem to be doing Monky business. Im so glad you got into wheel horses with me. From the A-90 to the 857 and now to your 1257. It’s been awesome. So many good times Of riding in the woods and trying to pull each other ( somehow I always lose ) happy birthday man. WHEEL HORSES FOR LIFE!!!!

I picked up a 70 GT-14 and a 1054 this winter and started checking them over today. I pulled the spark plugs and added about a tablespoon of Marvel mystery oil into the cylinder. Also washed them off and lubed the choke and throttle cables. The GT 14 cables came free and were working but the 1054 were being stubborn. My next move is to drain the old gas from the GT 14 and replace the fuel line, filter and spark plug. The oil is dirty but full, should I change the oil before I attempt to start it or get it going and warm the oil to drain? After I get it running I will move on to the hydro trouble shooting, brake and then tires.

Comon now Sylvia... I know you drink you have male appendages (hopefully) .... you gonna sit ther and tell me you don't like the great outdoors? We tried @Horse Newbie So my math cards got painted .... thanks Sylvia. . But what you are saying 'Nuts is it would take 352 months to pay off my camper versus staying in a hotel? Quit worrying about the price Newbie .... you wanna kiss yer wife just get a room!

He don’t know anything about paint… gotta ask the BBT in Paint Department … Its looking good!!!

The “high lift” blade Gary is referring to is designed for use with the non-powered bagger attached to the 37” SD deck. The blade (on the right side only) was ‘designed’ for use to enhance discharge thru the tube when bagging only (you could use it for regular grass cutting BUT it was 2x-3x more than a regular blade). Wheel Horse really never sold special blades to lift up grass while cutting. As to why your deck is clogging my first guess would be grass is too tall, try cutting more often. If you have the chute attached to your deck, it can be removed to increase discharge rate. Word of caution: If you do that be aware of what direction that 37” is pointed. I broke a $600 entry door glass from 30-40 ft with an acorn one year.

If you have access to a DMM Dan you can easily measure the amount of current the lights use. Best practice is fuse the lights with a less than 15 amp fuse. These lights Drew this So I fused them all at 10 amps which is well below the 20 amp output of the tractor. Ohm law is a great tool to have in one's tool box but I like to see it for real. The rated wattage can be different than what the manufacturer says and actual battery voltage plays a part. Also led's are rated in an equivalent wattage which can throw a monkey wrench into calculations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsLLq6Rm5tU

Look up Ohms Law...

If you use LED lights, you could do two bright lights with 2-3 amps max.

Your time's coming!

I need to move closer to that guy!

Can't believe you don't have an eraser wheel. Look under the flower pots. Might find one under there that you "forgot" you had. You should leave "never felt so good" on the doors!

( thanks 857 lover for giving me a good price on the raider and storage for the horses )

What about some spray paint Uncle Jim?

A little clip for you on the eraser wheel.

Family fun with these great tractors Lane. Nice pictures.

And, why not add a 3rd variety. Both my 702's came with a lever arm and an additional external arm. That additional arm is a priming device to activate the pump with the engine off. I have one added to the 854 and use it a lot for easier starting. Bill

Visuals Smells Rock & Rye Oh my…!!!

All I know, is that I am too shy to play this game. I tried to think of something that would be , well, you know. I gave up on this one. Furtive, ya that's me.

Washed off the salt and winter grime from snow plow duty on the C 105 and the C 6.5 predator swap… Painted the lower battery tray on the E-141. Badly pitted from rust / acid. Just laid on the primer and paint to get it sealed. Not going trailer queen - this one’s going to work pulling the SL&WHN train…

A little work for the new cart. It is small but it has a big hart. I also would like to thank Anthony Ruggiero for all he did for me on delivering this tractor to me after a hard day's work. Thanks Tony.

Thanks for that. Your equation really helped

1. If not running that's a perfectly reasonable thing to do. IIFF YOU HAVE WORKING BRAKES on a rolling chassis you could have another person tow the roller with an operator on it. K1 or diesel is fine. Off-road diesel is less expensive if that's available to you. 2. I bought square head standard magnetic plugs. The thing to remember there is that the male type square head sticks out of the transmission housing and has potential to catch on rough terrain. When we make our forest trails we're conscious of not going over larger roots and rocks.