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A little work for the new cart. It is small but it has a big hart. I also would like to thank Anthony Ruggiero for all he did for me on delivering this tractor to me after a hard day's work. Thanks Tony.

Took a bit of a walk today. 4.7 miles. Pretty good elevation gain. Around 1457 vertical feet. It's a VERY old colonial settlement area. Several cellar holes and some excellent old stone walls. Enjoy!!

got out the harbo freight small tire changer and got ready to mount some tires on fresh painted wheels for the C81 Covid Project. I am sure others may have a trick or two but I use a piece of plywood, with a hole drilled to accept the threaded rod, between the rim and changer to stop the changer from running up into the hub area. I put the bearings in afterward.

Decided to go ahead and clean the starter and grease it good for the k241 engine project. Sure is quieter now... a little tricky getting it back together but not too bad.

He who furtives in church sits in his own pew.

Since we were in church I had to be very furtive about my fartive.

Finished the rebuilds on a pair of K-series:

Key notes about oil in the old Kohler singles are, never run them low, and change the oil every 25 hours. There is no filtration on the oil circuit and the only way to remove the dirt is to change the oil. I like to run them good and warm then dump her hot while the most dirt is suspended in the oil.

A weekend up date.... First I'll finish the tutorial that I started on my process of straitening sheet metal. @ebinmaine All of the parts received 1 coat of self etching primer and 3 coats of sand able filler primer, in my case this was a 2k urethane gray primer. After the primer was dry I misted a coat of red oxide primer over it as a guide coat. Now for the wet sanding. Using 400grit on a sanding block and a semi flexible sanding pad, I sanded the primer. After a few swipes you can see how the guide coat will show you what needs to be sanded out. When all of the red oxide has been sanded off, then you know that your part is completely sanded. After it dries I wipe it down with a preps all solvent, wipe it with a tack cloth and it's ready for paint. All this prep work leads to what is finally the fun part for me. Time to squirt some paint. One other good/GREAT note. My parts finally came in for my engine . I dropped the engine off at my machinist on Monday and was able to pick it up on Thursday, so I was able to paint the block today as well. Assembly time is right around the corner now.

I use two tire irons at a time and have leather glove fingers over the ends, works fine. My tire changing station is a piece of 3/4" all thread through the work bench.

Washed off the salt and winter grime from snow plow duty on the C 105 and the C 6.5 predator swap… Painted the lower battery tray on the E-141. Badly pitted from rust / acid. Just laid on the primer and paint to get it sealed. Not going trailer queen - this one’s going to work pulling the SL&WHN train…

Greasy Pete will be pleased. @peter lena

@redsquarebob I got this k341 at around 700 hrs. It was neglected. Oil like tar and it smoked. I put in Rotella 30W and ran it for 10 years. First couple of oil changes the oil came out like crude. 2 years ago at 1000 hrs. I finally had to tear it down as the balance gears were rattling. This is a picture of inside the engine when I pulled the pan. I didn't clean a thing.

so guys i just bought another tractor a raider 10 with a plow and mower deck for 150 that runs was it a good deal

tighten the big nut on the top with the washer between. The bottom against the wood, (the side of the rim is facing out on the tractor), comes out really nice no touch up. the top can be tricky and you get a few skin marks around the edge of the rim against the tire. Nothing a small brush and a spray of paint in a jar won't touch up if one was needing to do so. I'll take an after pic or two later when I go back to the shop. Outside (side against plywood) Inside, the one is worse because I tried a different tool and should have stuck to the motorcycle tire tools. I thought afterward that maybe a couple wraps of electrical tape on this area may be the solution. ?? I got a couple more to do and might try that tape idea but that is a couple weeks away.

The BBT throws furtive glances at my implements. You bunch o fruitcakes gitt yer minds out the gutter. I bought a mid-mount grader blade thinking it might go on my tractor but it landed on her 867 and I've never even used it. Just recently I picked up a ripper spike for our new garden area and it looks like that shall meet the same fate.

I wanted to add a bronze sleeve bushing to the forward section of the lower steering shaft on the 502. The idea was to undercut the forward 3/8" to accept a 5/8 ID x 3/4 OD bushing and tap the end for a 5/16-18.retaining bolt. The hole in the frame was in great shape - the end of the steering shaft was not. I did not want to remove the fan gear as it was rust welded quite well and solid in place. I tried to run the shaft at the lowest lathe speed, but the off centeredness set up a bad vibration. @peter lena may have seen something like this where you add a part to balance off the shaft 180 degrees from the offending part. I saw this done at work 8 or 10 years ago when a line shaft support bearing failed on a cam driven machine and the idea was the same - to sleeve it. The cams were external profile cams, not "Box" cams that capture the roller on upper and lower. The Machine Shop foreman added clamps to "Balance" the off center load. I happened to be in the shop when they started the lathe - he told me "You MAY not want to stand there." It was uneventful as was mine. Still not something taught in Shop 101 or 102...

I use nothing but Rotella SAE 30 in all my vintage garden tractors, mowers, and engines. Been doing that for as long as I can remember. I have had some issues finding it recently so if I'm out and see a jug I buy it weather I need it or not.

@ANTPER As your aware to replace the axle seals you have to pull the wheel hubs. These wheel hubs are made of cast iron which is brittle, so DO Not use a 3 jaw puller on the outer diameter/flange of the hub. They are easy to break. Search for "Wheel Hub Puller" or Hub Puller" You will get lots of ideas how to do it. if your lucky your leaking axle seals will have lubed up your hubs to make them easier to pull....I've never been that lucky.

Because newer engines have emissions systems, and the ZDDP in it buggers them up. But 30w oil with ZDDP is best suited for flathead air cooled engines.

I'm furtive on my comments , keep them guessing.

Niiccee Poop. I put out mineral blocks in January after hunting season and remove them (Pa law) 30 days before season opens in the next fall. I think the only negative to feeding minerals is the greater risk of disease transfer when they are concentrated at a feeding station. I have seen some deer lick at a site for an hour, and others for a minute and move on. It seems they regulate the amount of mineral each animal needs, unlike when they gorge on corn during the winter when other feed is not available. I do use mineral blocks that contain calcium and phosphorus which is needed for antler growth. There are many good blocks available with different hardness. Very hard blocks last longer and limit the amount of material a deer can consume. I feel they are best, especially in bear country. A bear can consume a soft block in one feeding. The mineral blocks are a good attractent and usually cause the deer to stop for good trail cam pictures making it easy to study the quality of the deer in the area.

When I’m near strangers, I sometimes have to furtive. If it’s just my girls, it’s surely a flarp.

And it did have a touch of the "Kevin Factor" where you say to yourself "Ah, what could go wrong".... Bill

'Nuts I have the same one as Joe. My problem is I don't have a bench to mount it solidly on where a guy can get the swing on it proper and have it it not flying around. Tis a handy thing to have around tho. Especially when I was setting the tires on the flame and wanted to get the stagger right. Thanks I will try the plywood thing.

Give me AC or give me death!

Did you put grease in the Bendix gear? That should be a dry lube like graphite powder.

No, the minerals, unlike feed, are not critical to their survival.

Frame is wider (1") Front axle has a drop and uses bigger tires. The hoodstand and seat platform are taller than regular horses to give clearance for the tires.. Sunstrand Hydro gear and transaxle are dimensionlly the same as Chargers electros etc. Only internal difference is input gear (hydro motor to transaxle)

I've been tilling for 30 years with a hydro, haven't got the hang of it yet. Just a miserable experience with the tiller intermittently giving a push forward, and constant playing with the motion lever and brake will not help much. The girl in the video is not to blame for the uncontrollable lurching.

The ignition switch number from the factory was 111215 which was replaced by 103-991 and has been used on Magnum powered Wheel Horses for several years.

Have the serial number of the engine? That will tell you what year Kohler made the engine. Could be the same year as the tractor or one model year newer.

'85 and '86 had the K Series Kohler engines, '87 was the first year for the Magnum in a Wheel Horse.

Very creative. Over the years I've been fortunate to see machinist do a lot of creative things repairing and refurbishing the Hydro turbine generator parts I worked with.

With the work hours I put in I let the unit go a bit so I'm going to town on it and show it some love as Its been good to me many years. Doing filters, engine oil,lube, seals, fresh trans oil. new blades, 2 front tires. Do I sound a bit too excited? lol. Thanks for info guys. This site is awesome with the knowledge on here.

Just so you know, Kohler sells 30W high zinc oil for gasoline engines.

Some neat sites for sure. Did you look for gold in them ther hills? That type of stuff really perks an interest. Especially the walls and foundations. The who,why,when of it. Thanks for sharing. Some beautiful country for sure.

Thanks for takin us along Eric. I need a break....Whew.

Had the grandkids riding around this am so go a few more tractors out and running since it’s nice and sunny this am in Indiana! IMG_1163.MOV

You wanna tent camp @Horse Newbie I got a couple of tents I can get ya. Have them for free you give them a good home and can send them with the Hosen I don't make it. Me thinks the missus put my tent camping days over although I did enjoy it. The Tage Mahal you got the hair to set it up. I also have a nice little 7x7 that's made many trips to Sturgis you want it. Don't listen to Squonky he's a sally.

Post a wanted add in classified section. Also could call A to Z tractor - vendor section of classifieds. He might be able to set you up. Whats wrong with the one you have?

@ri702bill My South Bend, along with being made in Taiwan came from hurricane Katrina, had stayed completely submerged in that toxic sludge for some 2-3 weeks. I took a BIG gamble and gave $500 for it. Oddly enough we - my machinist buddy and I - only had to cut/remake 3 gears in the head stock and with a LOT of clean up, it turned out to be a good lathe. Very slight pitting on the ways that were cked carefully and found to be OK. Amazingly, was even able to use the original motor - after clean up! The Mill is from ENCO and according to my Bridgeport expert buddy it is almost a direct copy of the Bridgys.....

So, I take it Trina couldn't talk you into climbing the tower? On a slightly more serious note, there's a channel on YouTube called New England Forests I just became aware of recently. He dives deeply into the history and ecology of these forests, and it's fascinating to watch. This is a good place to start if anybody's interested:

If the belt wasn't extremely tight it wouldn't drive the blades when cutting the lawn, the belt would just slip.

3 full wet coats, then a light mist of red oxide primer out a spray can after it dries for the guide coat. It did get one coat of self etching primer before the 3 coats of urethane was applied.

for tilling I like it better. I have found that these machines are powerful and weight in all four corners helps alot with both gear and hydro when tilling.

well the seat went on my 857 and i sold it to my buddy @danweikert21 and i’m looking at buying a 1267 and my grandpa is a john deere guy and i’ve convinced him to get one but after i get a 1267 i’ll be content for a while

You need to take a metal detector for a walk.

The olderss just felt so much younger !