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I have 3 tractors that use these clutch discs so its nice to have a spare. The original on my 416 shattered last year and i bolted on my spare..but that left me with none. I ordered a Deere B2354R which was a pulley clutch liner for a B/520 etc. Its the right thickness, right inner diameter, outer diameter is like 1/8" larger. I cleaned my plate with a wirw wheel, scuffed it, then wiped with mineral spirits. I wiped the liner off too. Then mixed up some jb weld? Put a uniform layer on the disk and centered it on the plate, then set it in my press overnight between the iron plates and probably no more than 200lbs of pressure. Then cleaned up the edge in about a minute on the bench grinder and painted the back of the plate and edges. Should work fine, did a similar repair years ago on another brand and it held up great.

So my son called me that there was a riding mower with a $50 sign on it in front of a house where he lives. Says its 7 yrs old, runs and drives but deck needs welding. You PATINA guys should love this one! it looks like its been parked up a tree all its like and never saw a roof or a bath. Its an Ariens with a 20 HP briggs Engine and 46" deck. While its definitely just a mower, he needs a mower for his 1/2 acre yard. I plan to restore a WH for him one of these days, but maybe this will tie him over for a few years. It does start good, no smoke and runs the deck at no load good. But its needs a bath and from the looks of the air filter a good general maintenance. It even has a tag that give the model numbers of all the general maintenance parts. I found the 2 belts, blades, spark plugs, oil and air filter and gas tubing on Amazon for about $120 The one rear deck lift bracket that is broken off looks like an easy weld repair. Definitely needs a set of blades, but the deck shell is sound and the spindles seem smooth! Before I spend any money on it, I've going to drain the filthy black oil and run a magnet through it to make sure their isn't any metal showing up. If the oil looks good my son and I will give it some love and put it to mowing grass. If theirs metal the oil -decision time! I don't need another project. But hopefully this $50 mower and $120 parts will give him a grass mower that has a few more years of life left in it for him. Its just a shame for someone to neglect a piece of equipment like this even if its just a box store mower. They got their 7 years out of it and threw it away.

Made this tramel out of double unistrut I got at work out of the metal dumpster for free and a cabelas deer lift I had on the shelf for 15 years it is rated for 800 lbs and 4 harbor freight wheels for 12 bucks. 110 bucks invested and my back loves it the whole thing just bolts together no welding

That’s funny stuff there! The high/low shifter and the brake drum location tell you it’s a six speed. They also came with the little short pipe nipple and coupler on the fill hole to allow for 2 qts, but that could be added to any transmission. Then like EB said, all 6 speeds had lsd’s.

Up to 1967 they were 1/2". '68 and newer was 5/8". Did you verify the actual measured length of the old belt ? Did you use the old transmission pulley? Is the idler pulley arm working properly and giving a full swing? Are you removing the idler pulley to install or trying to slide the belt over all 3 pulleys? Some of us can just tell things and others can't. It's ok. Doesn't make you a lesser person. 😂 Or..... ALL 6 speeds have Limited Slip Differential. 6 speeds were made from '67-'69, maybe '70?? There were certain automatics that had LS Diffs back then too. I don't know how to tell which hydros. My 1970 Charger Hydro was LSD. I saved that differential to put in the 1975 C160 Automatic.

Hey y’all just wanted to say a huge thanks for wishing me and my buddy happy birth day. Everyone has been so helpful. My wheel horse got me started in my career. And yes I’ve been staying out of trouble haha.

Happy Happy Fellas! I just commented to Pullstart how nice it was he was helpin out the younguns. He says sometime he has to help out us olduns too...

Join the 2 wires at the ammeter now and insulate well as they are still used to power the tractor. Connect the (+) voltmeter lead to the wire feeding the (+) terminal of the ignition coil. Ground the (-) voltmeter lead to the chassis. This way the voltmeter is not powered when the key is off.

Old Kwik-Way helping out pouring footings. The 4 holes were dug by the old school method just over 4' deep. Great exercise for the upper body.

There’s a few whipper snappers around here, and we all started somewhere! I didn’t gain really any mechanical knowledge from parents, so people taking their time to help has made a huge difference in my life. You fellas pay attention and get you some uncommon sense and you’ll go far! Happy birthday Dan!

The picture was the 1st post. The hi/low range shifter is the 1st thing to look for. Then you look to see where the brake drum is mounted (in this case the 11/44 tooth or mushroom gear). That is really all you need to know...it is a 10 pinion LS. The 1" extension on the fill plug is the clincher. Not all 6 speeds have that extension, but not one 8 pinion does. So it is ,for sure, a #5060 or a #5071. The #5073 has the brake drum on the cluster gear shaft and a dip stick. Only real way to tell on that one is to count the bolts on the differential (5). The difference between #5060 & #5071...#5060 has aluminum end plates on the differential, the #5071 has steel end plates.

4 for Friday Front End

The owner of Novella's scrap yard in Danbury Ct [203-743-5275] called me about this tractor. It seems to be in good shape the engine is free turns over with pull rope. Must have been taken care of the deck looks nice no exterior rust. The big selling point is it has a branded John Deere seat. Good luck if you end up with it.

Thats ok our job is to see to it that someday you can.

Likely! I didn't have much to do, so i painted it. What is weird is i can barely see it! This picture doesnt do it justice. I was cleaning it up after replacing the module under the flywheel and thought what the hay, ill spruce it up a bit. Also, i greased the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft finally. I had forgot that you have to turn the wheel to get to that grease fitting. It's been over a year since ive done it. @peter lenais gonna kill me! Lol

If you can't find one close, I have an excellent place in St. Charles, Ill. I think it might be around a 1 1/2 to 2 hr drive though. He used to be a Kohler dealer. Let me know if you are interested, I will add his information.

No, it swings very little. Actually, having it rotate in a circle may not be all bad. OH WAIT ! It does now. Did I mention I built a folding table? A rather stout folding table. The lift cradle is also quite stout. I tend to over build things. That being said, the things I build, generally stay built. So I still don't have a lift table, but I do have a table, and I do have a lift, hmmmmm. It was the next logical step. If you saw the pictures of the table in the previous post, you may have noticed the legs bowed outward slightly. This was by design. Now I can put ratchet straps between them to hold them from going further. With them bowed out, I believe there is very little chance they could ever fold in on themselves. The table will roll and spin around, but it would do it much easier I believe with larger, slightly harder casters. I built the cradle originally for a wheel base of 43.5". I don't know where i came up with that figure, but it was wrong. I had to add a short piece to each side to spread it some. That may be a blessing in disguise, as I can drill a series of holes in these short pieces to adjust to the wheel base of different tractors. My wifes only comment was, " I am getting you a "Life Alert" button. Oh Ye of little faith. I would not be afraid to sit in the seat of this tractor while up on the table. I have a couple of things to do for finishing touches on the cradle, but when it's done and not in use, it will store nicely, leaning against the wall, behind my rolling tool boxes. This afternoon I will be starting on the long put off expeirmental modification to the 125. It's about time !

To some extent I understand the logic of that but it sounds like a code put together by an engineer who's never actually tried to clean or maintain a gutter. Much less, watch the snow come down off a roof or form an ice jam because of that very gutter.

Although this is true I think keeping in mind where this applies is important. Ceramic coating usually is done on cars, especially high horsepower cars. With high performance vehicles keeping the temperature in the egine-bay as low as possible is important to keep things from burning up or exploding. Also if you run a turbo-setup it's important to get exhaust gasses to the turbo as hot as possible. That's because hot gasses contain more energy to spin the turbo, thus creating more boost and/or being more efficient at creating boost. So that's why it's key to keep heat in the exhaust and out of the engine-bay. For that same reason you sometimes see that they wrap the headers and downpipe of an exhaust system with heat resistant cloth (fiberglass?). Long story short, not sure if it ceramic coating a lawntractors' exhaust will boost the performance. That being said, it does look pretty friggin' cool

Welcome back!! I have to agree with the rest of the gang on the filter. I refer to Fram filters as "Orange Death"

I’m at that age where my mind says, no problem but my body says….WTF are you doing ?

Okay it is only a K181 but it is the whole tractor... SAVE you BACK!!!

Happy Birthday @danweikert21, and an early Happy Birthday to your buddy @857lover You guys stayin' out of trouble?

For my birthday I got a farmall horn button And horns

None of us were born knowing any of this stuff. You and @danweikert21 are not afraid to ask for help and are both gracious enough to follow up on the information we are able to share with you. Your curiosity and desire to learn will serve you well as you enter the workforce.

Here’s probably one of the last updates on Alex’s project. It’s on 4 wheels finally! Needs only a few minor things but it’s close and he finally got to drive it today! It’s so muddy he didn’t go far just out to let me take some pictures and back. Thanks for all your support. Once the yard hardens back up I will get some pics of him out and about. After he’s used it around the house this year he still plans on restoring it like my 603. stayed tuned he picked up another project wheel horse today! The kid has got the bug!

i love this forum i don’t have much to offer to help others but hey

We are supposed to get " a plowable amount " of snow tonight into tomorrow. My plow stays on year round !

Snowplow came off the 308-8 today….so she was able to make a trip out into the woods. Just showing off the front end flex while looking like a one eyed pirate 🏴‍☠️

Out behind my shed…

@wallfish it is supposed to act like a real differential with out much pressure. Remember, the Limited Slip only works when going in a straight line. I'm not sure this idea that the trans jumps and snaps and clicks is accurate when turning one wheel while holding the other. It has been said, one should turn the one wheel SLOWLY and the other wheel should turn in the same direction...seems turning the one wheel faster makes it act like a real differential. Another test, put the front of your tractor against a fence post and use 1st gear to see if both wheels turn. If this doesn't work, it would be a weak or broken spring. Lowell at WH parts & more has new ones available now.

HAPPPPPY BIRTHDAAAAYYY

We all have a couple skeletons in our closets…I have these three (C-85, GT-1100 and C-81) Side shots coming tomorrow of these three creepy beauty queens

Here ya go...talk to Kim. He did 2 K-181's for me a couple of years ago. I rebuilt the engines, he did all the machine work. Auto Machine, Inc. 310 North 6th St. St Charles, Ill 60174 phone # (630) 584-1188

But Doc, tractors are my life

Yes, I would like a floor drain. The purpose will primarily be for washing the tractor or truck and the floor after butchering a deer. I will have a few conduits installed so I can run power, water into the barn at a later date on my own. I'm environmentally conscious and a steward of the land, so no funny business going on with the floor drain. Plus my land is adjacent to federal wetland and I don't need my well water getting contaminated either.

Good one! I can laugh at that because I'm an engineer and I've encountered too many to count that are so book smart they can't change the oil on their car.

The plastic tube likely plugged into a nipple to drain a plastic battery tray under the battery.

@jay cee Just for reference here is a picture of a restored 1986 312-8 with an original K-series Kohler and an original 1989 312-8 with a M-12 Magnum Kohler. @JoeM @953 nut By looking at the engine shroud you can see the difference.

I have a lift table from Harbor Freight that is a real back-saver. Roll it right up to the tractor and pump it up to the height of the frame and slide the engine from the frame to the table, no lifting. It will lift an entire tractor and is great for lifting into the bed of a pick up truck too.

I like both versions! Build one of each!

That’s cool you got it back. I bet cleans up good. Stories of stuff coming back home are interesting. the guy I bought my 312-8 from messaged me a couple months after I bought it and said if I wasn’t happy with it or regretted the purchase he’d buy it back from me. Unfortunately for him that was not the case. now if I can only find the guy my dad sold his 65 gmc truck to 30 years ago and buy that back to the family…

I'm past that point. Mind and body are in full agreement!

Nothing wrong with ATF if everything else is good. When I had to take mine apart to replace an axle I drained the filter and changed it over to 10 W 30, drove it around a few minutes and ran the lift up and down then changed the filter and oil again to be sure I'd flushed it well. I can't tell the difference but 10 W 30 is les expensive. For $ 32.00 I would do away with the used springs and buy a new set from @wheelhorseman . One more vote for ditch the Fram and go with the NAPA 1410.

Is the engine you are wiring up the to the 310 the one that came on it or is it a replacement engine? The wiring diagram that @lynnmor provided shows a three wire plug with a white wire for 12 volt DC to charge the battery, a green wire for unregulated AC for lighting and a yellow wire going to the ignition coil. There is no oil sentry shown and they are usually dark blue wires. This would have left the factory with a Kohler K series engine having battery ignition, not an M series. Please give us the engine Spec. number and double check the year of your 310 so we can be of more help.

They could have just said “looks cool”, and that would sell me !