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Nice looking work! Something I did on a recent 8 speed trany to help keep water out. Put an O-ring under the low high range shifter lever before I installed the lever.

@Desko Man that transmission looks really good. I’m refreshing my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 right now. I started a thread called Work Horse GT-1600 Refresh if you want to check it out. What color gray are you using ? I had to go with Rustoleum Smoke Grey because of the supply chain issues. I hope to bring my Work Horse to The Big Show also.

As Pete linked, a good set of crimpers makes all the difference in the world. Those cheap POS chinese crimpers that come with sets of solderless connectors are about worthless

Got some more painting done on the work horse. I didn't get a picture of all the rods and pedals all done up but I did get some of the trans. It's not glass by any means but it did lay down pretty smooth minus the imperfections of the cast itself. All the frame/hood stand parts are about done and assembled. I should be moving on to the grey soon enough and get it looking more like a tractor again. I know it's supposed to be satin black (according to the 1 gallon can itself) but it's turning up more glossy maybe after it's cure it'll dull a bit hopefully. Even though it won't be a show queen I'm hoping to take it to the big show this year!

I pick this up last year on the cheap for a winter project and to flip in the spring. Turned out the engine was bad after the blackest oil I have ever seen. Then the true condition of the engine became clear. Did the valves I hoped this was it? But NOT. It runs and moves well after I had to flush out the tranny nice chocolate brown. Never was changed. Down the road it goes, or I will keep it for Lawn cart 5.5 or 10 cube hauling. Thanks for looking.

often refer to wire fittings or make up add on , been using these for years ,https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-909-Crimping-Tool-Cutter/dp/B00004SBDI , makes quick work of any crimping wire set up . also go to the contractor grade connection section , for better selection and strength. just an idea , pete

Yep about as useless as these....

Maybe we'll never know, but we're to old to know any better anyway.

Yes he does 'Fish. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/7235-spring/ Weellll we contributed to your delinquency ....or did you contribute to mine?!?!?

I use those with some good molex or stay con uninsulated terminals.....almost as good as soldering!

Definitely the best style going. The markings are long gone but based on the grip color these are Ideal brand. In the vicinity of 50 years old and served me well.

I'm a ship without a rudder, my whim could decide my final decision. Just because I didn't like the height of the steering wheel, I have to drop the tower or something else to please my eye. So, why not explore my options? What's the harm? Said me, that is now dazed and confused.

My vote - not that it counts - keep it to haul / drive etc. and more importantly, as a hedge against inflation… to paraphrase someone famous: “Buy Wheel Horses boy, cuz’ they ain’t making’ em anymore”…

So who washed the little ones before Moma got home 👮🏻

My bible... It and my M-37 with 8000lb winch have recovered a few weekend warriors... (and people who think 4 d is the answer.. 4wd just lets you get a hundred feet deeper into trouble

Got 3 pairs of Klein's. 1 in the big shop box, 1 in the Veto bag in the truck and 1 in my electrical box I keep with me at shows for the guys with the green and yellow tractors that are pushed by me.

Got this half-ton lift table yesterday and put it right to use changing the skids on the snowblower. It was a whole lot easier with the machine at an easy working height than having to reach down for it!

Obviously @squonk and @ebinmaine have no need to get their eyecrometers calibrated.

Next time you go out there, Get you one of these:

Taking a cleaner approach today. Little one in the nose again and big sis “acting sleepy” so her sis will take a nap. My calculations tell me they’ll both wake up in a couple 2-3 hours. Ruts from yesterday’s carnage as a bonus.

Wow, three guys all say the same thing three different ways Don't lock the tranny. Transmissions don't grind if nothing is moving. A moving belt causes the grinding. Fix the belt stopping system.

Grinding when shifting is not a transmission problem. The tractor wheels and the drive belt and transmission input pulley can not be moving when shifting gears. If it is grinding, something is moving, most likely the drive belt. and you are causing damage to the gears. Several things help to stop the belt from moving when the clutch is depressed. 1. the belt guard must be properly in place as it supports the lower loop of the belt preventing it from contacting the engine drive pulley. 2. the idler/ tensioning pulley and the belt tab must be installer properly so the tab pinches and stops the belt when the clutch is depressed. 3. some engines have wire belt guards at the engine drive pulley that help to stop the belt movement 4. a sheared roll pin that fixes the clutch cross shaft to the clutch rod lever may be sheared preventing the clutch pedal from properly operating the tensioner pulley Locking a transmission is not recommended for normal use. Your Raider 10 probably has a limited slip differntial

I built myself a table. A rather stout table. It's made from a 1 3/4" solid core wood door, covered with FRP, and measures 32" by 72". It has castors, and the center post also has rollers on the bottom of it's foot. I can hang the table on my wall brackets, screw in the support posts, and it at work bench height. When not in use, everything fold up underneath, and it folds down flat against the wall. I also built a wood storage rack. I have been working hard on getting my limited space more organized and useful. The rack is suspended from the ceiling, and is operated by a winch. I had a winch in my garage already, and I could have used it for this, but then I got to thinking about what I could do with a second winch. More on that later.

That would be my vote... That tractor has a lot of character, and now it "runs and moves well", I'd keep it. Or convince Eric that he "needs" it.

Reminds of the story my wife tells about my daughter taking my WH out into the motorcycle trials and getting stuck. My wife had to go help get it out and she was not happy. They washed it up before I got home and never said a word until years later.

They are my nieces… so I can just say “sorry they’re kind of dirty” and ship ‘em off!

I can say I painted the engine tins on my 416 over 10 years ago with rustoleum self etching primer and regular black paint. It still looks good. I didn't paint the insides because there was no rust or deep scratches.

I got my crank shaft back from the machine shop today. Price was reasonable as well. When I dropped off my crank I also took my new rod and a copy of the spec sheet from the Kohler manual. If you look over the measurements that the machinist wrote down you will see why it is very important to have your new part with you when you drop parts off for machining. The two numbers in the right hand corner are the STD. and .010 under crank measurements according to the manual. My new rod was more on the lines of .009 under than .010 under so he compensated for this discrepancy.

Only the second time in 20 years plowing after dark MVI_0693(1).MOV

Best pull the tins off the engine too, probably been there too.

I want to thank everyone for the replies. I'm sorry I haven't gotten back sooner. Here's a little background on why I want to sell one. I'm a home inspector. My wife recently retired. I was covered by her medical insurance from work, so that stopped. I needed insurance, and having had cancer three years ago, I wanted to keep the same doctors, so I took a full time job at the hospital she worked at - on top of still doing home inspections. Right now it doable because the shortage of houses on the market has kept the number of people seeking inspections low, but that won't last forever. So between some time in the near future and when I become eligible for Medicare in three and a half years, I'm going to have almost no free time. Doing only my driveway, I'll have no need for the two tractors, so the second one would just be sitting unused. I'd really like to give my wife back her garage spot after 'temporarily' taking it over more than five years ago, but not being able to take possession of my neighbor's shed for another year, available space in my sheds is really tight. After reading the posts, I decided to keep the 14 HP with the hydro lift. When I get some time, I'll get the C-120 ready for sale (and maybe secretly hope it doesn't sell). I kind of hesitate to bring it up, but I bought another tractor last week - a little black frame Case 110 XC. I wanted a small, light tractor that's easy to get on and off of for pulling a trailer around, that wouldn't tear up the yard during wet springtime conditions. It was only a hundred bucks. It will be pretty easy to store, because I can lift up the rear end and manhandle it around. I have it in the garage until I get a chance to go through it. A Lawn Ranger would be perfect for this job. Right now, I sure wish I hadn't sold mine last year!

Ah HA! We're contributing to the delinquency of these 2 by helping them out. LoL Does Lowell sell replacement diff springs for those? Thought he might have had some made but IDK

Just a quick update here.... I swapped in another battery, to see what the charging system would do while it was running. But I couldn't get the engine started, so I started checking out the basics. I have spark, and fuel is being pumped into the carb, but it won't run. I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb throat while my daughter cranked it over, and it will start and run briefly until the cleaner runs out. So I took the carb off, and I'll clean and rebuild it, and replace all the fuel lines and filter, and maybe the shutoff at the tank as well (one of the fuel lines is dated on my birthday in 1995!). I'll be back.... In the meantime, I thought you'd all get a kick out of this photo, which shows some of what I'm dealing with here. The throttle shaft on this carb is really loose, so I'll repair that, hopefully better than the last guy. If you look closely at the bottom of the photo, there's a very similar repair on the fuel pump:

T & B I've had for over 20 years. They were given to me used.

@Gregor That is slick!!!

There are several good options for an ailing Sundstrand in a GT-14. #1 As @daveoman1966 said it can be rebuilt. #2 Another way to go is finding a Charger or electro with a good Sundstrand drive and swap it to your trans axle. I did a thread on this several years ago (attached). #3 Your axles from the GT-14 could be used in the C-160's transaxle, we don't have a thread on this swap so if you do it please document the process. Some of the linkage from the C-160 will probably be needed. #4 You could use an Eaton 1100 like @19richie66 did, I have attached that thread too.

Made some coffee and it’s time to get some work done before the girls show up again…. Their normal babysitter is on vacation. @WHX?? I know you love my GT Daze cup, so I figured I’ stick that in the picture

Like that lift @Lee1977... Pics / Details? Is it mounted off a 2" hitch?

Wheels painted!

So for most of my time tinkering with garden tractors I’ve always done wheel horse stuff. They’re all so straight forward to work on, everything’s where it should be and there’s nothing extra. And then we get to this thing… My 68 bolens 1050. Nothing makes any sense whatsoever on these things. so I fired it up to move it out of the way and it immediately shreds one of the drive belts. Not really a huge issue since FMC decided it needs two of them. But the interesting part of this is that the two drive belts lead down to a automotive style plate clutch attached to a shaft that runs straight into the gearbox. which means in order to replace the belts I would have to remove the clutch and disconnect the driveshaft to even get to them. Ive heard of others having to unbolt the engines and slide them forward on the frame to get enough room to even touch the belts.

@onanparts.com sells blanks that need to be machined. Also, a good automotive machine shop can make seats to fit and install them. Do not depend on peening or adhesives, they need a very tight press fit, about .0050"

Me thinks you got screwed when you bought that tractor...

Yeah me too but I didn't really want to say anything cuz I didn't want Parsons to feel bad....

A bad condenser can cause misfiring. Have another you can try? It connects to the (-) side of the coil and the body of it requires a ground provided by the mounting bolt. Single cylinder engine?

We gonna have us a Senior reunion Pullhosen @Pullstart?!?!? That must have been a devil of one to get off to warrant a triple post Ollie?!?!?

The aftermarket junk is not worth buying. Most of your problem as described is probably fuel related but it wouldn't hurt to replace the points also. The setting of your points is what determines your engine's ignition timing so it can make a big contribution to the overall performance of your engine. Ignition timing on Kohler engines. Gapping the ignition points at .020 has always been the standard answer to how points should be set. That probably will get you into the ballpark where the engine will run, but with a bit of additional effort you can improve the engine’s power and performance. The Kohler engine manual in the Red Square files section covers two methods for setting the ignition timing, Static Timing and using a Timing Light.

Paint will always darken around the exhaust outlet. I haven't found one that doesn't, with the exception of black.

Proof that I busted out the hosen’ washed it! Poor quality picture like Sasquatch, but it’s dark in the barn.

I'd second that Plunge but prolly be falling on deaf ears. His only saving grace is we know he can fix them we know he wrecks them! Only problem is how is he going to fix them...