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My C-125 and C-121, (The Black Horse), had not been run since before Christmas. Yesterday I decided to run them. I'll be needing the C-125 for mowing duty soon. The C-125 has been a bit of a beggar to start for a while. Taking some time cranking before it would fire up. It would be trying but just chuffing and not firing properly. Had a good spark and fuel getting through. So I checked the points and reset them. That is a pain to do. As soon as the securing screw was tightened, the gap would open a touch. Using a 20thou feeler and a 19thou one, I got the gap so the 19 would just slide in and the 20 a tad tight. Starting was no different so I decided to change the carb. I had a reconditioned one on the shelf so fitted that. Starting was much better and I let it warm up and adjusted the carb. Switched it off and restarted a few times and all is improved. I'll see what it's like later afternoon with a cold engine. Fingers crossed. The Black Horse just refused even to try to start. Which was a bit of a surprise because it normally a first time starter. No spark at the plug. I tried two. Checked and reset the points. Same method as the C-125. I have a spark tester that you fit between the HT lead and plug. Fitted that a discovered an intermittent spark. Checking the wiring, I found the connection of the negative wire from the coil, at the points, was slightly loose. Tightened that and the tractor started immediately as normal.

In case anyone wanted to see rustoleum metallic satin nickel New tires too😃😃

A picture is worth a thousand words but seeing is believing. The belly is full of patches held together with rivets or fiberglass. The steering wheel should come Tuesday and a 6" pulley on Wednesday. The only huddle is a gas tank that doesn't leak

Wheels painted!

Just a thought… I use a marine style primer bulb on my C 105 and it makes a big difference starting cold. Couple squeezes and she starts right up…

Something even easier..... HERE

This remind you of some one?

We had this old Wheelchair that is electrical adjustable in height. (for shower, toilet visits etc) Nobody wanted the chair so we converted it into a in height adjustable workbench As it was designed to lift people, it is strong! Makes off loading those heavy Kohlers easy

Welcome Many WH 8 hp tractors had one inch crankshafts. They used the normal manual PTO but had a special bearing race WH#6935 in the PTO Check with AtoZ tractor in the vendor section here. Just Checked he has 7 in stock....

Gun rest for sighting in scopes: Expenses: Milk crate = Kids Green Noodle = Total = Free! Time: 5 minutes And the crate holds ammo, ear protection etc… Works perfectly!!!

You'll be fine using that oil. Half the tranny's I see have muddy water as lube. Be sure to put on a new shifter boot.

I do not have a website (at least not until I retire and can attend to it full time). I did start a Facebook page a few months ago (K and B Horse parts). As far as contacting me, message me here(I'm here several times throughout the day and later at night), text or call during normal business hours Monday thru Saturday, leave a message if I don't answer.

I cleaned one up with some fine grit paper and silver paint. It's not chrome of course but looks fine. I had WheelHorse3D make some "skirts" for mine, and they look great!

I know the manual says straight 90 but I had this leftover 414-8 It is gl-5

God’s will, will be done… nothing can change that. You can bet that anything that is happening IS PART of God’s plan. I worry also, but whether a nuke or a heart attack takes me out, I try to have faith that I will be in paradise some day…

I got my crank shaft back from the machine shop today. Price was reasonable as well. When I dropped off my crank I also took my new rod and a copy of the spec sheet from the Kohler manual. If you look over the measurements that the machinist wrote down you will see why it is very important to have your new part with you when you drop parts off for machining. The two numbers in the right hand corner are the STD. and .010 under crank measurements according to the manual. My new rod was more on the lines of .009 under than .010 under so he compensated for this discrepancy.

There are two o rings the smaller one is #116. It can be hard to keep the bigger 026 one in place in the triangular plate...it can slip out a bit and get pinched. I now use 026S (a square profile O ring it stays in place during reassembly better. (A bit of grease also helps.) PM me you address I will mail you one...

Here ya go…

WHEELHORSE ABUSE, WHEELHORSE ABUSE. @Pullstart

Like that lift @Lee1977... Pics / Details? Is it mounted off a 2" hitch?

They both have primer bulbs. Fuel delivery was not the problem as previously stated. The C-125 still played up this afternoon. One thing I'd been wondering about was the valve clearances. So they got checked this afternoon. Inlet was OK but the exhaust was a bit tight. Reset that to 18thou. While replacing the carb' I checked to see if the throttle butterfly valve was closing fully. It wasn't. So the governor to carb rod was adjusted. Hopefully those two things will have improved things. Ran out of time so I'll see how things go tomorrow.

That's using the ole "noodle" for something other than a hat rack Sylvia!

But we continued improve hood hinge

If we could only figure out a way to turn farts into fuel for our haulers…

If you don't like the MCL between you legs, you can always swap it for an older version and have it off to the right side. A little work, but something to think about. Both types work on the same pivot point.

Hopefully there will be more than a few RS members at Portage this year if the gas prices don't keep the MN boys and others at home. Last couple of years has been the dominant brand there since WH was the feature and we started displaying in the horse barns. Be great to see you there BP!

Top of piston eroded away from the combustion flame. Hottest spot in the combustion chamber. You can see the flame path towards the exhaust valve. Seen this a lot.

80-90w is what I run in my gear jammers.

GL 4 and 5 have different qualities. I believe you're ok either way with a Horse transmission because there's no brass/other yellow metals.

I've been impressed at the difference these make for tractors with under-seat fuel tanks. I am definitely a believer!

I use 3 different fillers. A fiberglass reinforced filler for first coat over any welds. https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Marson-Mar-Glass-Gallon-Hardener/dp/B000FN4G2K A regular filler for a any other dents or imperfections. https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO A final coat of icing, A super fine filler to get rid of any pin holes or minor imperfections left in the previous fillers. https://www.amazon.com/USC-26006-Icing-tube-Finishing/dp/B00GQ1X1MQ Final sanding of the fillers is done with 180 grit before priming. Then I use an automotive urethane primer to take care of any minute imperfections. Urethane primer will not shrink under the paint like a lacquer primer will, so any filling that it does is permanent. The urethane primer is then wet sanded with 400 or 600 grit before paint is applied. I see that @giddyap hood has some spot putty on it, Spot putty is good for minor imperfections that are found after primer is applied, but it is a lacquer based filler and there is a chance that it will shrink under the paint. If it shrinks then you will be able to see the imperfections on close inspection. Nothing wrong with spot putty, but you do run the risk that I mentioned. The above are my methods. They may not be for everyone, but it's what works for me. Your hood has turned out great so far Giddyap.

Some body work today. Once you start painting you can’t stop.this panel on the Armstrong side rotted thru. As you can see the p.o. Fixed it with matching black paint. As was the case with all the repairs. I cut a piece of sheet metal came up a bit short but I’m not sweating it. Welded it from the inside then some body fill on the outside. Sand prime and paint tomorrow

I did get the 3 pt with it! However, I kept banging my shins in to it so to keep cursing at a minimum, I pulled the pins. LoL 🤣 The tractor in front of it is my Automatic 18 that has a 3 pt too but was never installed. Still in the box

Went for a tractor ride with two little ones today. Ended up the field was a little bottomless in a spot. Rylee drove my truck out to rescue us and we almost buried that. I got the tractor washed up as quick as we got it out, so the mud didn’t dry.

The one I found is rough and missing the retaining washers/push nuts. I tried to run a thread on one post and it worked ok the other one twisted off. Maybe sand a little and some spray paint. A dab of epoxy?? If you want it I can toss it in the mail. My treat. Just PM me a USPS address.

Bushing shows up in 8 speeds, 4 speeds and the 5053 trannies basically all modern (not 3 piece units). Now on the other hand the cheap GL5 I use from Wally world says it protects against corrosion of copper or bronze bushings

SWEET! That is VERY HELPFUL! Thanks a BUNCH!

At first I sprayed it with rust oleum metallic silver It looked good but was a little too bright for me I couldn’t find the satin nickel at three different auto parts stores that’s why I went with the metallic silver but then I found the satin at Lowe’s they had plenty of it

to the forum. There might be sleeves available to slide over the Predator shaft to adapt to the 1 1/8" Wheel Horse pulley and clutch parts. Many here on the forum have made similar swaps. Someone will be along soon with more details and advice.

@953 nut I’m not sure what to think about that link… I just hope Norman isn’t a hypochondriac and starts feeling like a broken crank!

Thanks Eric I plan on giving it a second coat Wed evening after a 600 wet sand and then Sat a final 1500 wet sand. IDNK fillers, your suggestion? Finally after too many hours of fighting with a major paint manufacturer this is the finished hood. I won't disclose the brand name but I will say 3 different lot numbers of the same color name were all different tints. I sent a complaint and after 10 days accepted a refund check over a color match. The paint manager at my local Ace store suggested their brand and is now my favorite

I use Rotella 30 year round.

@76c12091520h Brian, I've been meaning to ask the same thing. Also, what's your most convenient contact method? Text. Email. PM. Voice call. Carrier pigeon. Note tied to a rock delivered via trebuchet?

Why? I've read nothing political. I would say it's been carefully avoided. I see no harm in voicing concerns. We're not breaking any rules, and sometimes discussion is a bit of a stress relief.

Everyone, meet Fernando…

Personally I think it's time to shut down this thread.

0There is a member who makes them out of plastic. They have a rubber base. You can also get one with the horse head and tire. I'm trying to remember his member name. I'm sure someone will post it.

Getting braver with the welder. It's made out of an old basket of some sort that had a three point linkage on it, which I cut off. The orange handle is from my ship, it used to be part of our old lifeboats that have been replaced. Forgot to mention, it's for the electric fence wire. I forget how much we use but it's miles and miles and miles....