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I took the plunge and replaced my front stub axles with one inch ones made for trailer hubs, now I have a pair of trailer hubs on there and four stud mounting front wheels. It was a pretty straight forward job to do and I'm very happy with the results.

OK I am prejudiced. This L107 was bought in May 1967 by my Father and has been on constant use since. Mowed 2 acres for many years. Last 20 years she is used year round as a chore tractor. She has also run a snowblower and plowed snow. She is on her second engine (Techy HH70 put on in the early 90s) Probably the best $469.95 he every spent. Techy starts winter and summer faster than most of my Kohlers and is ready to run work inmediately

I think a good deck has more value as a working deck. Hardly ever see a "Queen Deck" Good decks are getting scarcer. A new deck can add 20 years or more to a good tractor's usefulness

Even with a smoking worn Honda engine. The new to me C175-8 is doing some work! Helping us plant some beech hedge on this sunny day.

As far as I can tell it’s every bit as heavy duty as it’s bigger brothers from the 60s. I guess the three lug rear hubs would be lighter but it’s a pretty tough little machine. The one I got is from Denny Clarke and he put a six speed in it and it is my go to tractor. He also swapped a pulley on it so it goes 8 mph in high gear. It’s a blast and very comfortable to drive. My boys love it and they were both 6’5”.

Not wheel horse. That is the Texas flag.

uh oh… @Maxwell-8 and @ebinmaine… you guys in trouble…

That's just mosquito repellent. Keep it working!

That is funny!

These are decent bearings. I remove the inside seal so that they can be greased using the factory grease fitting on the rim. https://www.amazon.com/XiKe-Bearings-Applicable-Wheelbarrows-Replacement/dp/B078JY8452/ref=sr_1_3?crid=WYW1E4CI03OC&keywords=garden+tractor+wheel+bearing&qid=1646219498&sprefix=garden+tractor+wheel+%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-3

Check with wheelhorsepartsandmore. Vendor here on Redsquare. Lowell will set you up. Good guy and great service. Classified section - vendors.

No gain at all with a .010 under rod. Maybe a 2 to 3 percent gain in power by going .030 over on the piston. Not enough gain to notice.

My plow did not come with a handle so I made one.

You could buy it and then offer a trade here: queen candidate deck for a solid working deck with something else thrown in to sweeten the deal?

Just want to make sure there is someone at the show uglier than me! hehe

If you really want to know what your charging voltage is, buy a cheap analog voltmeter. I have seen many digital meters no matter what brand or price level give wild fluctuating readings on a running engine

I appreciate it Jim; yeah I have no excuses - life's been hectic lately but all good! I need to get back into my lunchtime routine of checking the forum out again as it's been too long.

Thanks Kevin; thanks everyone!! I appreciate it very much. it was as good of a Tuesday as Tuesdays get!

Try this. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position with the engine not running. Check voltage across battery terminals. Move red test lead to the DC+ on the regulator. Should have same voltage as across battery lugs. If not the same voltage fix the wiring between the regulator DC+ terminal and the battery. It likely passes through the ignition switch. The regulator requires battery voltage to turn it on before it can regulate the stator charge current.

If the Big Show and seeing friends once a year isn't worth the $50-$150 to make the trip, Stay home and look at the pics on the forum!

You have to chisel out the concrete to get enough tube exposed to splice it. I already have a 4 1/2" cored hole there so the concrete chips away easier than if there wasn't one and it provides enough room to get your hands in there to work. Plus I can see exactly where the tube is so I try to keep the access as small as possible. We'll still use that same cored hole for what we do so that leaves a future access point to the splice just in case. It's just a PITA but certainly not the end of the world. Less than an hour because I'll have the repair parts with me.

Lowell sells good stuff. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/110513-front-wheel-bearing-4-for-wheel-horse/

I don't think there are any high quality front wheel bearings for garden tractors. The best I have found are the sealed ones from Ebay or Amazon. I have had a set on my 312-8 for three years just put them in with the seals in and haven't grease them. Some one on here was saying how bad they were, I checked mine a month or so back and they were good. I use that machine in the rough pastures and woods and with the large tires on back it get the front up often. The size you need is 1 3/8" OD and 3/4" ID. Most of the sellers don't give the size just part numbers.

That wasn’t as terrible as I figured!

Meeha Mirror went for a check up today and got some blood drawn. I wasn't there but was told she did just fine. Here she is wearing her boo boo cover.

Welcomed a new steed to the group. Traded some stuff for a 418-8 and 48” deck. Have some electrical work to do on it but overall in really good shape. Can’t wait to get it going for use this summer. Give my 417/12-A a break.

Just got this Raider 8 and was wondering if the red, white and blue decal is original. Seems like I have seen it on other Wheel Horse photos but maybe not...

Ladies and Gentlemen, looking for a consensus on the correct color on a 3,4, and 500 series paint for the dash tower, console ,front nose and engine/ tins. Are we talking satin, flat, matte or semi-gloss black.Yes Craig would like your input on this as well. The paint department in Hiram Me is hot on my trail. @ebinmaine Thanks

True.When ever I see a decent one with not to much “weight reduction” for sale cheap I buy it and refurb. Good decks are getting harder to find.

@Ed Kennell I changed the pulley back to what i think is factory size. I still have the one you had on there. I'll try to check the sizes tonight and reply back.

The 520-H swept axles use 1" spindles and tapered bearings in the wheels. Some got spindle thrust bearings at the factory but if not, you can add them. Plus, the 2" of extra wheelbase can make a difference (just be sure to account for it behind the bucket of the FEL). The reduction steering was gravy (two turns lock-to-lock and it feels like power steering) but not as easily swapped into a different chassis/hoodstand. I know they are not easy to find and can be a bit dear, but short of the LX and LXI models, these might have been the strongest front ends WH put out and I'd recommend it as an upgrade to any 3, 4, or 500 series targeted for an FEL.

Haha, no worries, I will start on getting the KT-17 running tomorrow. I am thinking about rebuilding that Honda engine. I have never done a rebuild of an engine and I think this would be a good candidate. If something goes wrong, no big deal.

Skunky and Pull Hosen have offered to pay for my gas. They miss seeing me.

II drew plans and measured up houses and buildings for 50 years. Carpenters don't use them much any more but for heights an 8 ft. folding rule will get most of them a 6 ft. will get most houses.

It’s very difficult to see the cam and crankshaft timing marks while the engine is in the vehicle. I made an executive decision that it was in time using points of reference on the block for the crank marks and cam marks… along with using cylinder one and six as a tdc reference. It seemed that the cam marks hit the crank marks just barely after tdc, as to not allow pre-detonation. I put the truck mostly together but didn’t put coolant in. It runs!

I don't think anyone here doubts the toughness of even the base LRs, but not every buyer has the skill/$$ to change out the transmission, swap the drive pulley, raise & replace the seat, and add running boards (and swap in a Kohler?). IMHO, that is no longer an LR. It's great WH hybrid!

This morning I jacked up the front end. I wasn’t looking forward to what I would find, as it is a loader tractor… as I lifted it, I kept my eye on the axle, it did not move. Proceeded to move it up, down, snd side to side. Next to no movement in any direction. I think I lucked out! Only movement in the steering system seems to be the steering arms at the top of the spindles ( they need to be tightened ) this manual steering system seems to be superior to the system in the 520H. the more I dig into this tractor, the more I am impressed!

I'm resurrecting this 10 year old thread since it seems timely. With current gas prices averaging about $3.60 for regular now with no end in sight and no plan for relief, what price per gallon will be your limit and prevent you from driving to the big show? I'm lucky because I am close and even though regular gas is predicted by GasBuddy to be around $4.00 by Memorial day, I won't be happy, but I will be okay.

My bare feet found my 3 in slab copper pipes leaks I’ve had. But my thermo gun like the one above sure has been helpful to narrow down the actual leak spot. Use it on a tractor every now and then too.

when I get to the shop in the morning, I will pop a few pics after I get the client stuff lined up for the day. I got the tractor for next to nothing due to the bad axles. Im quite the WH Junkie as I grew up with em and My Pa Loved em and passed it on to me , pics in the morning my friends!

Looking more like a runner! I’m not looking forward to getting the loose stripped driver’s side manifold nuts and studs apart… but I have new hardware to go in.

Lawn rangers were just a topic of discussion last week. Here’s a link to that thread We kind of went back and forth discussing how it was ruggedly built, but smaller (closer to the ground) than some would desire for, say, plowing the garden. They did change a bit in looks overt he years but I believe that at heart, they are just as tough as most other Wheel Horses. I’d verify if it has a Kohler or Tecumseh engine. The Kohler engines are much easier to work on and parts are a bit more available. The fuel system at a minimum will need a good cleaning, maybe just plan on a 4 foot chunk of 1/4” fuel line and a good see through filter for starters. Check the oil, check for spark, clean the junk out of the carb. bowl, etc. if it’s been outside, most likely the trans is full of water or has some in it at least. *edit* I see it’s been indoors. Good deal! there are a good handful of threads if you search “baseline” too for a “how to get a tractor running that’s been sitting so long” topic. Good luck!

Wow, a 69 SS and a LSE, 2 of my favorites!

Tell Trina I found it. With that dremel question your lucky your not rebuilding the living room OR the kitchen again 🤣🤣🤣

Never been impressed with that VHT header paint. Have had good results with the Rustoleum black BBQ paint though.

Nell our Kelpie cross pup. Now 8mths and still growing.

Good Lord all these masserati tractors!. Hate to post my puny pics. Cut axles today for the 522 cleaned up the ends and roughed in the keyways.. Shop was 38°f with the heat on!

and come on in for marshmellows !