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I wouldn't hold your breath. And that is all I'll say on the subject on here.

We Americans generally take for granted the safety and security we enjoy. I am praying that the conflict in Ukraine ends swiftly and will not impact the rest of Europe.

And that in a nutshell sums up the underlying problem… There are always forces at work that run counter to our’s and the world’s peace and security. Always will be. I join you in your prayers for speedy resolution of this conflict but also for an end to our false sense of security… Continued prayers for you and your father @formariz… be safe.

The 606 is wet sanded and buffed. Tranny is completely installed, seat is mounted. All that’s left is getting the engine situated.

On top of everything personal going on here now there is the sound of practicing air raid sirens. Conflict not close but still not a familiar sound which makes for a very uncomfortable feeling. I miss the warm safe feeling of our spacious skies overhead. Everybody is on edge and the stress is not only visible but palpable.

My opinion only...for oddball things like high heat paint, vinyl dyes, etc., VHT is the best.

Just another Previous Owner modification the makes you wonder "what the heck was going on in their life at the time they did this."

I'm lovin' it!!! The little extra width really makes it pop!

I had kinda lost motivation on this project for a while, but hearing it fire up and riding around the yard I couldn't help but smile. And that gave me all the motivation I needed to keep on with the build

Added some bushing to the hood on my 312-8 got tired of all the rattling. Picked up a package of door bushings at Napa. Drilled out the hood hinge to 1/2" installed them. Was a real pain getting it back together with the bushing in place.. bushings kept coming out when when trying to get the rod back in. It's nice and quite now, also added three layers of electrical tape to the back of the hood

Dan you gave me a challenge so I'm making you famous with a unique cosmetic flair that shall forever be known as the Achto Accent. I believe it helps restore the original proportion of length to width lost in the stretch. If anything I hope it will have an impression on all who notice it.

It would behoove you to go back and take a look at some of his other work. Does some cool stuff....

Just stumbled across this thread. Cool Idea and awesome execution. I especially like the sheetmetal work you did. I'll be watching closely

Here is what I had on A 16 HP Vanguard With the C-series hood. A couple of aluminum plates with spacer below, interior parts from the Vanquard breather. It could be moved a little more to the right.

Nell our Kelpie cross pup. Now 8mths and still growing.

That's a job for me when/if the ground dries up a bit. Nell, the Kelpie cross has made a berm round the Japanese Mable in the lawn, that would do a motocross track justice. Rest of the lawn hasn't fared much better. You'd think butter wouldn't melt in her mouth.

We have a 518, 522 and 523. The 523 is my go to for mowing. It is fairly fast, very fuel efficent and you can barely feel a loss of power when you turn on the deck. The two gas models also mow nicely but they are monsters for plowing snow. I would avoid the LXI since it has the Kawasaki liquid cooled engine.

When I had my pole building built in March of 2020, I had contracted the job in November of 2019. Had I waited until later in 2020 to start the process, prices would have been almost 50% higher. Due to Covid, construction would not have begun until probably summer. A friend recently told me that he contacted my same builder and that a comparable size build now is double what I paid. Having said that, my experience with the building has taught me several lessons. Always build it at least twice as large as you originally planned. Insulate at least the ceiling. I did both the ceiling and the walls with 5/16" bubble roll. Not so much for heating, but for elimination of condensation. Have additional beams across the ceiling area to attach chain hoists and other lifting devices. Be sure that the overhead door rolls up and does not go up and lay flat over your head like a conventional garage door. It blocks light and air from overhead fans, and takes away a lot of usable overhead storage space.. Be sure that your doors are wide. I have an 18' wall with a 10' wide door. I wish it were wider. I ran 40 amp electrical service, but not water. I'm close enough that a hose will reach when I need it. Allow provisions for some type of heat. When it's warm out and you have 3 fans running to keep you cool, it's hard to imagine that just several months later the building will be unbearably cold. Just my thoughts on the subject.

Looks like she has graduated to the bigtime! Sure was cute on her own tractor though.

Might just make post office wall wanted poster board! Well that would have been years ago!

Not the chain sprockets, but I did put a smaller drive pulley on the jack shaft . Two things, the auger turns faster and you can remove/replace the belt without loosening the shaft bearings.

Yes he did. Here is a pic of it... Lol I actually like my tall chute more than my 2 stage. It's mostly because of the extra weight of the 2 stage. The tall chute is easier to control and does well.

Welcomed a new steed to the group. Traded some stuff for a 418-8 and 48” deck. Have some electrical work to do on it but overall in really good shape. Can’t wait to get it going for use this summer. Give my 417/12-A a break.

Karl @nylyon and I needed a place were we could talk smack about you all without being caught …so we met up in the Denver Airport! Or, maybe we were both connecting in Denver on our way to other places . I’ll never tell!!

Lawn rangers were just a topic of discussion last week. Here’s a link to that thread We kind of went back and forth discussing how it was ruggedly built, but smaller (closer to the ground) than some would desire for, say, plowing the garden. They did change a bit in looks overt he years but I believe that at heart, they are just as tough as most other Wheel Horses. I’d verify if it has a Kohler or Tecumseh engine. The Kohler engines are much easier to work on and parts are a bit more available. The fuel system at a minimum will need a good cleaning, maybe just plan on a 4 foot chunk of 1/4” fuel line and a good see through filter for starters. Check the oil, check for spark, clean the junk out of the carb. bowl, etc. if it’s been outside, most likely the trans is full of water or has some in it at least. *edit* I see it’s been indoors. Good deal! there are a good handful of threads if you search “baseline” too for a “how to get a tractor running that’s been sitting so long” topic. Good luck!

The fact that it has been stored indoors is a big plus. Do you happen to know what year or model number you are considering buying. The 1969 and later Lawn Rangers had a square hood and a vertical crankshaft and are not considered as desirable as the 1968 and earlier Round Hood units by most people. Got any pictures?

I certainly would be IF I were in the DC area, but I'm not. Is there any chance this show could be taken on the road? I mean, it sure would be fun if it happened to show up at a certain fairground in Arendtsville PA, or a nearby hotel, say around the middle of June. It's only a couple of hours away. Just sayin'.

Maybe the newer formula or something has changed. From 1977- 1999 I used VHT on the factory 396/402 cast iron manifolds and then on a new set of Hooker headers for years and never had a problem. Don't remember how I prepped either.

You are so right. I call them "what ifs". "What if" the factory built one like it. Kinda like the wife's vertical shaft hydro, mock round hood I built her. @giddyap I'm really diggin your build. I'm gonna sit tight and watch this one.

I remember one of our Troop 35 Winter Camporees at Camp Tuckahoe when the temp dipped to zero and the NW wind was howling. The tents were pitched on 6" of packed snow. We were all doing the rotation dance around the fire trying to keep warm. I finally caved in and took the boys to town to watch a movie.

Definitely include a vapor barrier under the slab. If you are planning on spending a lot of time in this building in the winter you might want to consider under slab insulation as well.

Excellent then Dan's point applies so 51x 36 or 48 x 30 etc. I'm sure the builder can coach you on that. The ones you posted look to be legit. Guessing concrete floor so plan ahead for footing for lifts if needed. Plan way ahead for other things as well. Extra conduits in thru floor to dirt for future utilities, water, power, backing in the ceiling for hanging deer, cable for that shop TV ..... Just for grins here is a pole building design tool. https://designit.menards.com/RPF-v2/#/landing Looks like they have a few stores in western PA. Somewhere in there is a cool little tool where you can place trucks & boats & tractors & toys in a floor plan to see how much space you need. Or in other words to see much bigger you need to go than you can afford! Like Jim below said under slab foam is never a bad idea.

As of now I have some special plans for wheels and tires but we will see what happens..

Camped in the snow often in my Scouting days in rural NE PA and enjoyed it. We had good leaders who helped us learn how to prepare and stay safe, well fed, and comfortable. Our troop was known in the council as "those guys who camp anywhere any time." One key was to have activities planned so that we weren't just sitting around staring at a fire!

Long ways from free in this case. Mr Jim has already done a bunch of stuff for us because he's awesome. But hey, if you want to stop up with something for Trina to do I'll run it by her and see when we can fit it into the schedule. Her minimum negotiated fee is probably in the neighborhood of an arm and a leg, plus or minus 10%.

Peppercorns. Crush em up and use em in a dry rub!

I wouldn't get under the branches even on a mini moto.

Interesting how such a subtle change can make such a huge difference. @Oldskool

Who were them masked men .... Lone Ranger and Tonto?!?!?

Hours are close enough between the two to not really matter, all things like maintenance being equal. Mostly in respect to transmission. That being said, I don't think the diesel engine would be affected as much by the hours. Again there are many variables to consider that you don't have. If the gas powered machine was taken better care of, for instance- you'll have to make that decision. Most would say go with the diesel, and it would be intriguing. But it will likely be more difficult and expensive to repair as well. Many gas engines on the other hand could be made to work in a repower situation. Again, it's a tough call with what information you have.

It might slow Soldier down, but I'm bettin he will luv digging in that new loose dirt. And when he hits the chain link, he'll peel that back like a like he's opening a can of tuna.

I would consider bumping the size up to 51'x30' and then dividing it in half. Insolate 25x30 for your heated work shop and leave the rest for cold storage. Just one suggestion. The odd ball 51' makes the outside sheeting come out better, every thing divisible by 3'. In Wisconsin, pole building poles and trusses are set 9' on center so most contractors try to make the length divisible by 9 when practical.

A few more of this past season with the daughter using it.

No, that ain't right. The condenser needs to be on the (-) side. It won't do anything on the (+) side. There are several reasons for the condenser, and one of them is to prevent excessive arcing on the points. With it on the (+) side it won't help the points at all. You probably also had a weak spark. Did it run? Well?

Insulate as best you can. You will use the building a lot more if you can heat it and keep the heat your pouring in. Heating with wood or propane in a building that size is gonna take a while to get up to any noticeable difference when it’s 20 degrees outside, or even 30 for that matter unless you keep the fire burning round the clock and pump it up when you’re gonna be in there. If you do decide not to insulate, at least use the metal roofing with the felt coated underside. It works well to stop the condensation drips on the inside.

I love cobbled parts tractors. While I love all original, I don't own one. My 701 and 310-8 are close, but still modified. All mine are parts tractors in one way or the other. 3 of my machines are absolute "CPTs". I make do with what I have. 523-H: frame and hydro from a 312-H. Vanguard engine built by me. Hood, fender, and hoodstand from a 518-H, rear wheels and front axle from a 520-H. 520-H: engine, hoodstand, and sheetmetal from one tractor, everything else from another 520. Bronco 14: hitch arms and hydraulics from a D series. I don't remember where the suitcase weights are from. Rear wheels aren't from a Wheel Horse. 867: least parts swap of most, but even so has an 8-pinion tranny because the original was in several boxes with a destroyed differential. Rear fender from a newer model. The Ranger: L-157 with full size wheels and an 8 speed from a Work Horse. Rear fenders from a Suburban. Obviously unfinished. The last tractor keeps changing before I can get much done. Absolutely cobbled. Not sure what it will become yet.

@kpinnc, Gold is nearly twice the density (weight per cubic centimeter) of lead, that would make for some real nice weights!

My Dad has a huge pole barn al least 35 x 40 with a side extension you could put 2 cars in. He went with a dirt / #14 white stone for the floor. He has always had trouble with critters. If you are going to build one, I suggest a footing 3' and concrete floor. If you just pour a slab, you will have critters tunnel under the slab. Trust me, and it is easier to do it right the 1st time...and cheaper. One or two other things, you can never have enough electrical outlets and enough lighting.

I have had great results with the Rust-Oleum 2000 degree paint. Sand blasted a rusty muffler and gave it two coats, next day I put it on the and ran it for twenty minutes like the label said. That was three years ago and it looks as good today as it did then. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Rust-Oleum-Automotive-High-Heat-Protective-Enamel-Flat-Spray-Paint-12-Oz/17203457?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9020677&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=17203457&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiApfeQBhAUEiwA7K_UH45is8ubH2-sSHFtSWT8VMA23XFQmDXup0Ca_k1-eLCCP2lxbia-NhoC34MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds