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Karl @nylyon and I needed a place were we could talk smack about you all without being caught …so we met up in the Denver Airport! Or, maybe we were both connecting in Denver on our way to other places . I’ll never tell!!

Speaking of smack talk... on your way to Denver, did you guys both become members of the mile high club?

You guys were out celebrating my birthday! The card hasn't shown up yet. Hope you sent cash!

My plow did not come with a handle so I made one.

You saw it from the mirror of my truck first. Here it is in the bed. From the paperwork this looks to be a 2000 or 2001. I've been looking for a tall chute but I just couldn't find anything around here. This one was further away than I intended to drive but you rarely see these is this condition anymore. So I made the road trip to, of all places, Chambersburg, PA, and had the pleasure of meeting another member. @"Manic-Mechanic" Dave's a great guy and as you'd figure, frequently attends the big show. I would have liked to have had more time to chat as he's got some other cool toys. I got back yesterday afternoon and just left it in the truck knowing that I wanted to do the usual routine service on it. There really isn't anything else it needs. I oiled up the chain and chute rotator and greased the two flange bearings. I also removed the pulley on the drive shaft, cleaned it up and reassembled with anti-seize. It wasn't util I loaded these pics on my puter that I noticed something that made me chuckle. I won't even tell you which pic. You tell me. Question for you guys. I often see these tall chutes with a deflector shield rising up about 6" from the bottom. Does this shield do much of anything? Obviously it would be a simple fabrication.

Welcomed a new steed to the group. Traded some stuff for a 418-8 and 48” deck. Have some electrical work to do on it but overall in really good shape. Can’t wait to get it going for use this summer. Give my 417/12-A a break.

This should be a "Caption This" thread.

some enterprising RS member should mfg some WH Red masks - if you two are planning to meet again in airports the WH Regal Red would certianly stand out to help you locate each other

Pete, the transmission may have been damaged when you attempted to operate the tractor while the with the frozen water was in the transmission. Check to see if the transmission is free. Remove the drive belt. Jack up one wheel. The wheel should turn free when the shifter is in nuetral. Try every gear and turn the wheel. As you turn the wheel,, it will be harder to turn and the input pulley (belt pulley) should turn. There should be no noise. If this tests OK, then I would proceed with the draining and flushing of the transmission before using the tractor.

Good Lord all these masserati tractors!. Hate to post my puny pics. Cut axles today for the 522 cleaned up the ends and roughed in the keyways.. Shop was 38°f with the heat on!

Nancy thinks it's an improvement.

One of the things I like about this website and group of people the most is that when you present an idea or a question for something that might be a little unconventional we come up with a half a dozen different ways to go about the exact same task such as this mesh search. Very very cool.

In addition to all of the great advice above, make sure the transmission is completely warm and thawed out when you drain it. Lingering ice will keep water inside it…

If I remember correctly I think I can squeeze 12 MPG out of this one, small block. Don't drive it much @Horse Newbie

I'm too sexii for my mask...while I do my little turn on the runway !! If you notice, the dancing banana is in tune with this song. what a riot.

My Dad has a huge pole barn al least 35 x 40 with a side extension you could put 2 cars in. He went with a dirt / #14 white stone for the floor. He has always had trouble with critters. If you are going to build one, I suggest a footing 3' and concrete floor. If you just pour a slab, you will have critters tunnel under the slab. Trust me, and it is easier to do it right the 1st time...and cheaper. One or two other things, you can never have enough electrical outlets and enough lighting.

The cam is in. I’m soaking the lifters in fresh 5W30 Mobil1 Synthetic oil before I drop them in. The clear-ish plastic bottle allows me to monitor the bubble action. No more bubbles = saturated (primed) lifters.

This is my shop, and my dad’s 520H. 2 stage blower on it now. Spray booth is behind the big door.

Cleanup day on the heads and deck. . It appears these have been removed before. There’s tons of irregular swirls on the mating surfaces of the heads, deck and intake along with different brand gaskets on each side, not to mention pry marks on certain edges. I’ll hone all surfaces, then I’ll check everything for flatness before re-assembly.

Really those great ideas belong in the re-purpose thread. Excellent guys...

This is the picture I was sent from the previous owner when I inquired about it. I will take some pics of it today…

The correct oil your gear transaxle is 90wt gear lube. A straight 50 weight motor oil would also be equivalent to a 90 wt gear oil. But i suspect a 5/50 would be on the thin side in operation. Since you had a lot of water in your transaxle did you flush it before refilling. I would suggest filling it brim full of diesel for a soak and with out it running gently (don't force it) work the gear shifter through all gears to rub a lot to work any rust off and get everything inside sliding well. Note: since diesel is a lot thinner than gear oil you seals could leak a little, no harm, just a potential small mess. Then with it still full of diesel, run it around the yard/street in all gears (or running it up on jack stands). When you drain it jack up the front of the tractor as there is a hump in the center of the transaxle that traps some fluid from normally draining. Just to check, you do have the belt guard in place when your trying to shift it. Also these are not synchronized transmissions, so you should be stopped each time you shift gears. o you have the belt guard in place when trying to shift. Also replace the rubber boot on top the transmission around the gear shifter. This is where water typically gets in. PS, let us know what model tractor you have.

The drive belt must not be moving when you try to shift gears. The belt guard must be in place as it helps to stop the belt from moving.

First step for me would be to verify the gauge is being truthful by verifying with a known good voltmeter.

As requested some pictures of my 1986 Wheel Horse 512-D with sweeper attachment.

@kpinnc, Gold is nearly twice the density (weight per cubic centimeter) of lead, that would make for some real nice weights!

Reminds me of the Joe Walsh / Eagles song… ”My Maserati does 4 or 5… Don’t need a license It’s all I wanna drive… I have a Black Hood, actually 3… I rode all over, They make me yell “Wee!!!” I ride them all day Who says an old fart can’t go out and play…” lucky I’m the same after all these Red Square years… life’s been good to me so far…! ——// But I digress…

Various. Excellent. All conditions. Restored. Workers. Post em up!!!

Can I say it on this forum?......green with envy

I'm afraid all those extras would have made Wheel Horse unaffordable for most of us...

Excellent! Those baskets are easy to find and as cheap as $3. Hard to beat that price. I'll look into those to see if they got the mesh I want. Absolutely agreed! Much better advice than one would het in a random FB or Insta post.

Here are a few pictures of the tractor cleaned up.

Yup, the leverage works wonders. This was my ballast this past summer. Now the tires are loaded with Rim Guard, and I have a weight box with about 400 pounds of miscellaneous cast iron weights in it. Bare tractor was very tippy…

This image made me think of those wire mesh waste baskets that go under ones desk. I have one in the garage right now!

Did you clean, repair or replace the tachometer connection at the voltage regulator? Keep in mind that dielectric grease is for preventing future corrosion and it will do nothing for the here and now, maybe even reduce current flow. To remove the tachometer, remove the fasteners at the dash and heat the plastic with a hair dryer. You should be able to get it pliable enough to wrestle the tachometer out, and if you have the new one ready you won't need to reheat. It does take a while to soften and it is best done in a warm garage.

Three rib tires always makes them steer easier in my opinion.

Make sure the outer tires have no or lower air pressure. They aren’t designed to stress the axles, just add stability.

What I ended up doing was i had a new 1/4 inch key cut in hub that was really cheap and quick fix .I was able to cut my own slot in axle I laid a short piece of angle iron and c clamped It on length of axle for a guide. Using a air cut off tool with small diameter wheel I was able to cut new slot .

My 2 1/2 year old grand nephew (Moose) loves marshmellows and his parents use them as rewards for good behavior. His 1 yo brother (Buck) has not aquired a taste for the sweet treats..yet. He lives in an urban area where there are several tame deer that feed on their shrubs. This AM I got a text frome my nephew...... . Moose wants to feed the deer, what do they like? I replied with this picture........ BTW, I did include a serious warning about the dangers involved when feeding wild animals. I

Rear weight box does make sense with the extra leverage. Tractor came with a Kwik Way weight box. Also I need to replace tires, and I have a pair of 16x6.50-8 tri rib tire that are very heavy duty, and would do well with extra pressure in them I think.

THANK -YOU ALL FOR THE BIRTHDAY WISHES!!!!

A weight box at the rear of the tractor will help steering effort considerably. By having weight behind the rear wheels it transfers some of the weight off of the front axle. Running higher tire pressure in the front tires is also very helpful, I keep mine at 30 psi.

Hi Ryan, that Xi in my opinion is quite the beast for a loader. Having loaded tires and wheel weights may help with stability on your terrain. Could you play around with front tire options and pressures to see if you can steer it any easier with a load on it? Make sure to check out the front axle pivot though. It wears more than you think without much notice until you Jack up the front end. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/92609-xi-series-front-axle-pivot-repair/

. This is my C-160. The C-120 otter be the same...

I definitely learned a lesson of not to take the whole assembly off. I will be more careful from now on for sure. Hope the next project he finds gets me back into a Kohler. Oh wait he still has his little reel mower with the Briggs on it we need to work on. To many projects to keep straight and all my ice fishing gear in the middle of it all. I need a barn with room for his stuff and mine.

Wake up Mike, the Birthday Boy bus is coming!

I live here in belgium and its not easy to find a wheel horse here. Sometimes they are up for sale but 1 or 2 days later they are sold. I had now finally the chance to buy a wheel horse lawn ranger 800. I often drive by the factory and its still there.

Feel like I owe an update here. I picked up the 753 a few weeks ago and have stripped it all the way down to the frame and transmission. I'm a fan of Super Clean, seems to do a really nice job de-greasing. The toolbox is completely rotted out and I've been unable to remove the seat support, ended up cutting the box out which means that I won't be able to re-install fenders later. Rebuilt the carb and waiting for fuel pump parts, hope to have it running for my sons 6th birthday in May (tractor party)