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As requested some pictures of my 1986 Wheel Horse 512-D with sweeper attachment.

My first WH with an oil filter…Oil & filter change done on the 315-8 this morning…

Alex held me captive in the garage for 8 hours today. I still couldn’t get spark with the tecumseh h60 that came with it so I took my complete spare for my 603 off the shelf and wouldn’t you know it no spark. I fought with it for a while and got frustrated (give me a good old Kohler any day). I got to thinking. I had another one mounted in a suburban frame for a potential rat rod speeder (like 7 years ago) that I never finished. So he pulled the engine and I tinkered a little bit and boom spark. He then went to town on getting all the engine pieces back on, engine mounted, hood on, belt guard on, clutch rod and brake rod on and his seat. It runs but needs a little adjusting. He’s happy as can be. Few small things and a couple bigger pieces left and he should have it cruising in no time.

I got the Honda running on the New To Me C175-8 It does smoke quite a bit. And someone, hooked up the throttle directly to the carb so I have to play the governor. Already flattened some molehills with with the tractor.

While what isavetractors is showing will get you a heavier hub and bearings it really doesn't add much/any strength to the actual spindle since it just slips on. If you added the welded brace in the "90" like JeepDan did since that is the true weak point and added the slip on for larger bearings that would be a good improvement. I really think if you did that brace on the "90" and went to needle bearings on you 3/4 spindles as @Snoopy11 and some have begun to use, it would be a reasonable good loader setup. PS I recently learned you can easily take a front axle from a J. Deere. 200,300 & maybe others that has factory 1" spindles, quickly paint it red, no one will know the difference.

Got the 1970 Sundstrand Hydro disassembly finished up. It had good wheel and axle bearings so I harvested them.

Be sure to post up a pict when Trina installs it for you.

Anyone who watches this thread is likely to get a kick outta this... I needed a distributor for my old '86 Ford F250 with a straight 6 300 powerplant. The factory carb and distributor are computer connected. I'm removing the OE single barrel carb and intake to replace with a small 4BBL Carter AFB atop a Clifford intake. This means by default I also need a distributor because the stock one would have no advance. Poking around on the interwebs and I found a forum alot like Redsquare in general positive nature. Fordsix. A fella named Bill Ambler was recommended to build a custom HEI type distributor for me. He modifies them to every specific vehicle. 1 wire connection. 50K + volts to spark plugs. Easy starting and better power/torque output/mpg.

I was considering adding the 1 inch spindle over the 3/4 spindle, welding it to the L shaped spindle and then adding a triangle piece of steel or extra metal like @jeepdan did welded over the L shape to give it extra strength. Looks like it would be as strong as the OEM product that was sold with the wheel horse FEL. Sound right?

OK I am getting a bit confused the Original poster had an Electro 12. Drain back is not an issue no check valves needed the gas tank is above the carb. Heck if you keep the tank at least half full you do not need a fuel pump...

Excellent advice. But I'll go one step further. Any paint can be deadly if breathed. But hardener as well as acrylic urethanes and acrylic enamels contain products that will harden your lungs as well the paint. Many people who now suffer from COPD admit that they never wore breathing protection while spray painting. My advice is this. If you can smell it, you are breathing it. At the very least wear an N95 mask with ANY rattle can spray paint, and a fresh air respirator when painting with hardeners and acrylic urethanes. Think about this. These paints and hardeners contain isocyanates. Crazy glue contains isocyanates. Would you breathe crazy glue? Sorry for the rant.

Removed a interesting hitch on my C175-8 which was rusted stuck of course. Lot of hammering and lots of lube, I got her out. put on this ball I had laying around. ( looks home-made, but i have seen a couple of these around, maybe a Belgium WH special.) Got a task for it next week so I needed a ball on there.

Aehm - who? 😂😂😂😂😂

My plow did not come with a handle so I made one.

We did. Then discovered it was out of time and firing wrong. From that point on I couldn’t of made it spark even if i had hooked it up to a wall outlet 😂. I tried everything in the book and then some and could not get it to spark ever again. Although the mechanic at worked offered to look at it so I may take him up on that. But yeah from that point on I’ve been struggling and he’s been hounding. This gets him going again.

There are less expensive options. Do away with the shaker plate entirely.

Well done Men.

A couple visitors today. It is entertaining watching big Woody reach in the feeder and pluck a sunflower seed with his tweezer beak. Then wedge it in the bark and hammer it to shreds.

Time for the annual Kennell Oyster pie dinner. The recipe has been posted earlier.

Back in the early 80's the dealer I worked at had 2 C-65's. A Tow truck and a bucket truck. Both had 230 C.I. 6 bangers in them. You could crawl into the engine compartment and close the hood! The lifters in both clattered like crazy. The bucket truck had to be put in my stall every weekend so it was my job to move it. No power steering. The shop owner rented it out to farmers in the fall for apple picking.

I have Matt's foot control on 5 of my machines. some have the steel reverse pedal and some have the cast reverse pedal. The 520HC that I use for snow removal has the older style steel revers pedal s shown. I use large insulated steel toed rubber boots and have no issues whatsoever.

Holds fuel in the line right up to the float needle valve. Even if all the gas in the bowl evaporates (and that would take some time) the first few revolutions of eh engine the fuel pump will push it into the bowl and enough to be sucked up the main needle

Glad I don't live in Maine. my shop charged me 250 for an M-18 2 cylinders, two rod journals, 4 valves, and he swapped in the new valve guides for me... He charged 150 for the first single but only 125 for the next two (guess he liked cash payment and donuts)

I have added a foot control to all three of my tractors. The 312, 417, and 520 all have the Eaton 1100 with the factory hand control still functional. I simply added a rod attaching the hand lever to a right foot pedal and removed any nuetral detant systems. For the 5 confined driveways I maintain, the foot control is a necessity as I constanlyt need to reverse direction. and lift the plow or blower. For longer open roads and driveways, the gear drive or hand control hydros would work fine. All my hydros have the hand control on the console tunnel which makes it easy to add the foot control. It would not work on a tractor with the control lever on the steering shaft. Of all the mods I have made to tractors. the foot control for snow removal has been the most valuable.

You can do it, but I wouldn't say "easily". You will need a spacer on the axle pivot. The JD axle pivot is much more narrow- by about an inch. Additionally, you'll have to fab up new arms on the spindles, because the JD drag link runs across the front of the axle as opposed to Wheel Horse being on the backside. Ask me how I know...

Feel like I owe an update here. I picked up the 753 a few weeks ago and have stripped it all the way down to the frame and transmission. I'm a fan of Super Clean, seems to do a really nice job de-greasing. The toolbox is completely rotted out and I've been unable to remove the seat support, ended up cutting the box out which means that I won't be able to re-install fenders later. Rebuilt the carb and waiting for fuel pump parts, hope to have it running for my sons 6th birthday in May (tractor party)

Well said Newbie. I was about to put this one in a scrap pile but then I found RS and the BS and realized yah... there are parts out there . Turned out to 2nd pic after one trip to PA BS. I thought were am going to find that SG belt guard. BS i found dozens all savable. The addiction began.. a hobby I really enjoy and keeps me out of the taverns. So just not any horse became a parts tractor but another to keep others working. I used to cringe at seeing A-Z's pics of tractors being stacked up like cord wood on a trailer for parts but I scored an immaculate correct steering wheel from him for my resto. I said a small prayer for the deceased tractor and promptly mounted it.

Oiled the two spots mentioned and got a chance to try it out today. Everything went fine. I got a chance before the snow came to look in the lean-to for the missing guard. Not there. It was listed for a bit over $20 including tax and shipping from a supplier I've used before. Toro's site said it was out of stock. I ordered anyway just to see. They took the order, but I got an email back saying they didn't have it in stock, would look in regional warehouses and get back to me with a delivery date. We'll see. Changed to the outer groove before getting out today. Blower worked fine. Didn't throw as far as I expected but I didn't get out until it warmed up this afternoon I have a couple more comments/questions. I know lots of people on the site have a preference for lube on things like the clip mentioned above and I'd like to hear them. Confession next. first I sprayed with PB Blaster, then decided I needed something a bit more permanent. Couldn't find my can of 3 in 1, so I used the only thing I had with a dropper tip. Hydraulic jack oil. it'll keep the parts moving and rust at bay for a while. After doing my snow removal I decided the motion control lever was a little balky going forward. Gave all the pivot points the same lube treatment and it was much better. Even with the hand motion control working well the hands are pretty busy blowing snow. Chute control, speed control, and steering. I need an extra hand! Interested in comments about the foot controls. I have other tractors with foot speed controls but cost of the conversion has been a sticking point for me. Do people who've done the conversion think it's worthwhile? This is the second 520H in the stable and I really don't have a lot of seat time in either. This one had a lot of questionable repairs and I'm working through the issues as I find them.

A few members have done this. That's how I got the idea. Just finishing these up. 1 1/16" "short hub" trailer spindles welded over a NOS pair of Wheel Horse 3/4" spindles. These are going to be used on a 312-8, sporting 8" wheels. Can't figure out yet, how to machine a seat on the steering arm plates, in order true them up to accept roller thrust bearings like on the 520's

Better get them fixed!

Ut-oh… I’ve got two !

One last little thing for my GT-14 arrived today. Not necessary however pretty happy with it. A 3D printed reproduction center cap insert. I still need to go back through the Carburetor. Otherwise in good shape. Mr Lincoln @A-Z Tractor (many thanks) sent me some gently used tie rod ends and the correct 3 spoke steering wheel with center cap. Is a Carb kit difficult to come by? Is that a question for another section? Thanks to you all. It has been enjoyable. I need another project now I think

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MIKE. Hope you have a good day.

I painted this tractor 20+ years ago with automotive paint over rattle can red oxide Rust-Oleum primer. None of the paint ever bubbled from underlying rust, and even typical scratches don't rust. Even in the environment here where items stored under a shed "sweat" from the humidity year round, I'm a believer in this primer. Even when used over light surface rust, it works well.

Just offering a less expensive alternative... I am more into performance than purism...

This is one that could use your delicate touch, Not going to tell you what model it is . You will have to figure that out for yourself.

Can't get anything better than an old school GM HEI

When using the hardener you should actually use a cartridge type respirator.

Yes

And if you have to use open end, you're only operating on two flats when the bolts get rusted in. Personally, I'm comfortable with grade 8 socket head cap screws and have had good luck with them, especially in tight quarters, but others do have different opinions.

Isn’t subjecting one’s self to that supposed to have a beneficial effect on the mitochondria or sumpin? If you don’t freeze, that is. That said, I agree; You two must be nuts to camp in that kind of weather. 🥶🥶 I’d be willing to bet you’ll get over that inclination in a few more years, though…

Fair question

Can you remove material from the top of the axle? About the same thickness as the roller thrust bearing and washers. There's plenty of extra meat there. That will leave the surfaces flat for the thrust bearing and also allow enough of the spindle out of the top for the retaining clip. The top of the axle doesn't necessarily need to be as true since nothing is riding on it.

I was about to say “working on it”… then I caught on…

He looks so sweet !

Yes. You do. The value is what you and a buyer would be happy with. Unfortunately there is no 'book value' for these tractors.

Beautiful spring-like day with plenty of sun. Pulled the 512-D out of hibernation for some " beauty"-shots.. it ain't pretty.. yet..

Got the Sundstrand transmission that was in the 70 Charger Hydro split open. I'll take out the innerds and set em aside. I'm keeping the Limited Slip Differential to install in something else later. Also keeping the case to use as a welding jig. It's no good for tractor usage. If anyone wants anything else lemme know...