Leaderboard

What did I do to one of them... I backed into it with a backhoe. It broke my custom hand crafted multi use bench seat. Nothing a 2x4 and some drywall screws can't fix. Good thing my standards are low, huh?

After the new foot control, add the heated cab. Yep, that's a toasty 60F.

Started cleaning these up!

I understand. I have a short section of pavers and on that I use my low impact plow (rubber chains and plastic plow edge). They are very bumpy. The rest is gravel dirt grass. If you can use steel chains get some like this. Smooth as can be even at full speed ( believe me those very, very old 6.00x12 are stiff as can be) and excellent grip as there is always steel between the tire and the ground.

This count?

Was able to get the valves adjusted and the top of my 520's Onan reassembled today. Left all the exhaust tins loosely mounted until I got the spacing around the intake right, then tightened it down to eliminate any contact there. All that detail work will disapper once the air cleaner assembly gets mou nted. Thing has never been a show tractor, so it's no big deal. Just happy it's routine maintence is getting done. A complete fluids and filters change tomorrow, then it'll finally be ready to blow some snow.

Max and Luna. Max Luna

Maybe you can do what I did I've since changed things around a little bit so it doesn't stick out as far as the picture shows. This was made for an ATV which was 5 ft wide but I cut it down to the width of the tractor.

NAPA Know-How !!!

I have about 50 part #'s jammed into my head. Plus I have about 10 catalogs here by my desk (they are old ones that were being tossed about 20 yrs. ago) plus I have Napa PROLINK and I can punch in part #'s and find out stock locally and throughout the country at the distribution centers. Back when I was working there every day, not only part #'s but acct #'s and phone #'s were stuffed in my head. There wasn't room for anything else.

Original machines can be brought back to have a nice look . Over the years I’ve been known to have nos machines & over restored units .(They say wine is better with age ) well took me years to appreciate the patina look . With a lot of trial and error I’ve come up with a solution . I’m against putting mystery oil , motor oil , wd40 ,linseed oil as the chances of ever doing anything with the metal down the road is nearly impossible. I found a lubricant that preserves the metal and brings the color out that is body shop safe. I do try to leave them natural in most cases but if color is a bit dull I then use the lubricant . These pictures posted aren’t done just (still in progress ) . No sandpaper or wire brush used . lastly : How you get the tractor out if you want to buy it bad enough. From the second story of the barn. 😆 IMG_3044.MOV

small town living. I went to the local Farm & Home store today to get some things for my latest project. Mostly galvanized pipe nipples and fittings. When she told me the total I was a bit surprised. 3/8 x 6" pipe nipple 5.99 Menards 1.79 3/8 x 4" pipe nipple 4.59 Menards 1.29 3/8 pipe coupling 3.99 Menards 1.19 3/8 T 4.59 Menards .99 1/2" threaded rod 8.99 Menards 4.79 Among other things. I still would not live in the "big city" though. I guess I should be thankful we have a store at all.

You will be well served to take the time and do the job right the first time. If you got lucky and found a problem that allowed the engine to start without attending to other problems they will stop you at the worst possible time. Clean inspect and tighten all connections including grounds and have your battery load tested. Any one inferior connection can and will leave you at a standstill. Fuse holders and amp meter connections are a likely first check. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch? Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

Just sayin'

Fortunately it has a clear epoxy cover to see... yup its burnt. I just got the $14 Amazon special (made of the best Chineseium available) in the mail today so.... repairs underway. eDiT: That fixed it... now it runs at 14.6v at full throttle, 13.5 ish at low idle. Good enough.

Only reason we keep him around..... only reason.... @wheelhorseman also has the bearings and seals. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/brakes-pto/

A little bit OT, but have you guys ever tried "flange head" bolts/nuts? I picked up a Massey garden tractor and apparently they used ALL flange heads thru out and I have fallen in love with them. I even went over to my bolt place and bought a bucketful of assorted sizes. Eliminates need for lock washers....

I've suspected for some time that he has a special tee shirt with these printed on it.

Do you have these memorized, or do you keep a cheat sheet by your computer?

None from the muffler. All the heat from the rear cylinder on the P220 Onan. The foot control and the heated cab. = two free warm hands. Right one steers and left one operates the lift.

As @Achto said we need to look at the simple things first. Are all electrical cables clean and tight including grounds? Have you used jumper cables from another vehicle to be sure the battery isn't the fault? With the PTO OFF and you sitting in the seat with the clutch depressed what are the results? Use an old screw driver or pair of pliers to jump across the large terminals of the solenoid, should turn the starter over. Here is a series of checks to determine what component is causing the starter to fail. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch? Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

I really gotta start checking in here more often This is my B-100, also known as the B-1 bomber. Theres a ton of mods on it, but as far as mods to make it hold up, very little needs to be done to a Horse. How crazy are you planning to get with it? As for 'absolute must have mods' as follows: Lock the diff! If you have an 8 pinion, you can absolutely flip them and call it a day- I have put mine through h-e-double hockey sticks and zero issues. Front spindles need to be the bolt style to hold wheels on, not clips. Also not a bad idea to drill and tap the tops of the spindles and use a big washer to hold them in place in the axle as well. Beef/brace up the steering arms where they attach to the spindle- this is a weak point, and if you jam a tire against something, you WILL snap it off. Tie rods- whip up a set with heim ends. Trans/frame brace- this is a weak point even on stock Horses that get used hard, lots of info out there for this mod. Your rear hubs WILL come loose, especially being locked up in rear- thats a ton of stress. At the very minimum install new locking screws and check them every ride. Better yet, clean the hubs and axles spotless and use loctite green 'sleeve retainer'- they will never move again. Yes you'll need heat to disassemble if the need arises. You can get a 26" rear tire under them if you're willing to 'roll' the fender lips a bit and perhaps trim the floorboard/fender meeting point. Most guys run 25s. I run the stock rear brake and have had no issues, but I also dont ride it to slow down on high speed runs and chance overheating it. If you plan to get into some serious mud, you'll have belt slip issues. 'Creepycrawler' came up with a killer idler setup to put more tension and wrap on the trans pulley and it makes the clutch as smoothe as most cars. Drill small holes in trans pulley to relieve trapped water/mud, and no smaller than 4.5-5" pulley. Also run a 1/2" belt. Yes. Much smoother action. Take a peek at the youtube vids, Creepycrawler and Giverthebeans97 are both strong Wheel Horse guys and post up lots of modification vids. I am 'Captain 315' but dont have a ton of stuff up yet.

The reason that I would need to slow down with chains is that I have wide and stiff 4 ply tires and prefer rubber chains. That setup would shake the fillings out of your teeth at higher speeds. This year I went back to 2 ply rounded tires on the snowblower tractor so the rubber chains won't beat up the cab and everything else.

I have to take my garbage to the dump which is about 10 miles away. Wheel horse would take too long. Lots of seat time though.

Took nearly sixty years to get this much character, not about to mess it up!

Cleaned up after a decent snowfall today. 6.25 inches give or take. First time using the C160 Automatic for it's intended purpose. Plowing!! The circled area on the brown tarp is a 417A trying to get out so it can have a rebuild.

Got the old 310 running right again. It was having carb issues from sitting for a month or two. I’ve been too busy with life to do much with my tractors. Hopefully I can get back on schedule and maybe find a project horse this winter.

Guy with the ORIGINAL post #17 was a SPAMMER. He's gone now. You shouldn't see his post there any longer.

What do you want from me? ALL the information? HUGE V plows.... Sometimes I forget most of us can't read minds.

Try paging through the classifieds “Archived “ section…hard to say but you might find some good examples there…😎👍

I use satin, rattle can Rustoleum…

They are worth what you want to sell them for and what a buyer is comfortable paying for them. Attachments are worth different money in different parts of the country. Want a run down...the plow is $125, the disc is the same, the tiller is around $350. Now put it in the "Classifieds". Actually, looking through the Classifieds might have given you these values. Sorry, just tired of these kind of threads. Do the leg work...look on FB, look in our classifieds, E-Bay...ask what you want...if it doesn't sell, lower the price...if it sells fast, you did not ask enough.

Black is my guess. sorry, had to!

I'll have to keep an eye on that meter... that no doubt is what killed the last battery.

That would be real handy for getting deer out of the woods Randy... I could see a receiver on the front for it too!

I hope you don't own a patent Richard. Mine is actually a sidewalk and driveway cleaner.

You just gota Love this guy! Now, back to PTO's

Thanks Don. You might be surprised, I've towed the can all around my bumpy and sloped yard while heavily loading the can with fallen pine limbs and not had a problem. When the clevis hitch is raised, the weight of the can is shared between the hitch and the can wheels. The water meter tool is made from some very tough 5/8" rebar and has not bent, but you could always reinforce it by tacking on a piece of channel or angle iron.

Outer PTO bearing : Napa # PP204RR6

We do all the time Don, we have our act together it takes us about 4 hours. ... took me doing on my own about 48 ... I have other means of warmth. .... a pellet stove... so I had the luxury of being able to seducing the canine. Truth be told I can get abit anal when it comes to my own stuff so many tripps to the shop for custom sheet metal work.

Yes, they do. I just did mine and stuck my caliper down the hole to measure. I don't recall the exact depth but it was at least an inch. I used 1" bolts with a flat and a lock on all of them.

Next thing you know… they’ll all be keeping good company. I can here these ones chattering on in the barn long after I close the stable doors!

Here yo go John.

Front hitch attachment...made by @shorts .

One of the interesting things about my area... Small towns and villages are becoming MORE successful instead of shrinking. I'm sure there are dozens of causes. Southern Maine is now and has been in an ever expanding sprawl for years. Also, more and more folks are trying to avoid letting the world go to big bigger biggest businesses.

That is an Orbitron weight, I wish they still made them.

Yep… sure can!

Well it ain’t no muscle car but it is a little hot rod. I sold my chevy pickup to my son in law last month as I needed something lighter on the wallet gaswise. I picked up this HHR SS and so far I love it. It’s like driving a go cart. Pretty quick little booger for what it is. I call it “the coffin” because if I ever get into a wreck, I’ll probably have to be buried in it.

Whats that saying with regards to the Watermelon ??Keep the red, throw out the green ???