Leaderboard
-
in Posts
- All areas
- Markers
- Marker Comments
- Marker Reviews
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Article Reviews
- Classfieds
- Classified Comments
- Classified Reviews
- Wiki's
- Wiki Comments
- Wiki Reviews
- Blog Entries
- Blog Comments
- Images
- Image Comments
- Image Reviews
- Albums
- Album Comments
- Album Reviews
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Posts
-
Custom Date
-
All time
November 28 2011 - February 18 2025
-
Year
February 18 2024 - February 18 2025
-
Month
January 18 2025 - February 18 2025
-
Week
February 11 2025 - February 18 2025
-
Today
February 18 2025
-
Custom Date
12/12/2021 - 12/12/2021
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/12/2021 in Posts
-
10 pointsHere is a side shot of my blackhood with enough power to turn on a few more lights.
-
9 pointsHad the C-160 automatic out today pushing some leaves. Haven’t had this one out on months but she fired right up!
-
9 pointsPlow tractor swapped places with mowing tractor today. Pointed out, ready for snow duty! Need to start the search for a new seat
-
8 pointsTook the C160 Automatic for a bit of a shakedown run. Drove around for a good 20+ minutes. Transmission seems good and strong. No loss of power or speed when hot. Speed control lever stays where you put it. It's very willing to start but the starter needs a clean out and likely bushings.
-
7 pointsSo this mod is the "ugly" one, but it is completely reversable. I've done this a couple times now, and it gives excellent results. Definitely the brightest LED mod I've found so far for this style headlight. The LED assemblies are made for overhead interior lights on a car. I got them online for about $6 each. They come with double side tape on the back, and I don't use it. The short of this is simple. I solder small JST connectors on just in case one LED panel fails, though it hasn't happened yet. Then I use hot glue to secure them to the back of the bezel. I use hot glue because it holds great, but can be removed without damaging the bezel. The glue seals out any crud, and so far has held up to the heat of the engine no problem. The pictures don't come close to showing just how bright these are.
-
6 pointsWe scored another project pulling tractor and a ton of extra parts!!
-
6 points
-
6 points
-
5 pointsSo far so good. Now that I have a decent feeling about the transmission being happy I'll run down through the list of to-do's on it. Get the plow/weights/chains on during the process.
-
5 points
-
5 points
-
5 pointsOn my old B-100 with a 48" blade and manual lift, I found that anything that I did to make it easier to lift defeated the purpose of having a heavy blade. It would not stay in contact with the pavement. I solved the problem by getting a 416-H with hydro lift. My left shoulder and back appreciates it.
-
5 pointsI used a 400lbs actuator at the time, worked flawlessly for doing a 3 car driveway. PROGRESSIVE AUTOMATIONS Electric Linear Actuator 12V i set it up using a solenoid and a rocker switch. Once I started plowing the road (private drive, county doesn’t plow it), I had to modify my battery box for a marine starting battery, because I was depleting my normal battery.
-
5 pointsHad my friend Michael over yesterday and we drove my Wheel Horses for 3 hours, trail-riding, drag racing in the driveway, racing in circles around the driveway, and just about any other type of driving you could think of. It was fun, and good for the tractors, the 520 hasn’t been run like that in years and the 607 hasn’t been run like that since I got it or since I rebuilt the transmission. So it was good for everyone, we even stayed out until it was dark and raced with the headlights on the 520 on. I was too busy racing to take any pictures though. The only reason the 520 was slower was because it had the plow on.
-
4 pointsFound a few pictures of the Horse and Deere together. I realized once relocating to Maine I would need a bigger tractor to be able to tackle larger tasks. Unfortunately storage becomes an issue and I do not like leaving much to the elements. The Kwik- Way served me well and do miss it for the lighter tasks but when the job requires a little more power I go diesel. 2009 3320.
-
4 pointsJust put my order in for some decals from redo your horse since I loved his decals last two times and the custom pink n purple ones for my daughters pink n purple 702 just wanna say thanks to a great fella with great decals
-
4 points1533 bearings were NLA until Lowell stepped up to the plate https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/?s=1533&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1
-
4 pointsTrina painted the implement control handle/lever and a rear hitch for Millie today. One step closer to it being a plow tractor for her.
-
4 pointsThe Paint Department played a bit of BBQ black on a muffler I got from a generous Redsquare member. This'll be put on the '75 C160 Automatic.
-
4 points
-
4 pointsI really like the looks of the Work Horse. My next quest will be to find one with the automatic transmission.
-
4 pointsOne very good trick...if your blade frame is twisted a little (your blade does not set flat on the surface) you can use air in your tires to balance out that twist.
-
4 pointsI was playing in the shop early this morning. I spent a few minutes with the grinder with a cut off wheel, the drill press, and the lathe.
-
4 pointsMenards has them for 129.99. I just ordered one. This site just keeps costing me money.😊
-
4 pointsI thought I should have one of these. Hmmmm @ $250, I thought wrong. Thats more than I paid for most of my On second thought, I do want an electric Wheel Horse.
-
4 points
-
4 pointsWinter 2020 with the LSE on a snow ride. Does good on the packed trails, just leave that throttle up and that Hydro lever down and keep up the momentum. Sweet sound from that Magnum.
-
4 pointsThe bed made it on today after all. Temp fitted a cab corner just to get a better feel for things.
-
3 pointsIt doesn't say in the thread. The only option i have at the moment is to use 1 of these.
-
3 pointsI'm not gona take her behind the barn yet and put her down.she is on three legs at the time but I can save her.🤣
-
3 pointsI’ve used both PC7 and JB Weld on rim pitting in the beat area. Both work, although PC7 is a little thicker. I apply with a putty knife best I can. Then lay wax paper or clear cellophane wrap on it and smooth with my fingers through the wrap. Leave the wrap in place until dry. I then use a coarse file to work it down close and finish with sandpaper. Using the file and the wheel in the lathe should work great.
-
3 pointsYeah just like that. Outstanding looking tractor. You can drop it off anytime 😄
-
3 points
-
3 points
-
3 pointsA little work on the arm rest today. Everything is going to bolt together. With the questions the wife has been asking I can see a door and roof upgrade of sorts it the future.
-
3 points
-
3 pointsI do pretty much what Steve said. I use JB Weld to hold a small piece of sheet metal under the hood. Then bondo, sand, prime and paint. I like the idea of the support under the hole. This Suburban 400 hood had several holes in it.
-
3 pointsI hope this ole goat can splain to you all . If you go to Northern , it sells a toggle switch that can be used with the electric actuator . ( don't buy it it corrodes too fast in humid areas) it is a simple crossing the wires on the switch for the up and down movement of the rod inside the actuator. The switch that Dave recommended is better designed. The actuator acts like the long down force link that WH made . I have an electric actuator on the rear of my 416-8 "what the what" . I can back up to my yard wagon (fully load) hook up , Thumb the switch and it lifts the load and holds in place ( bought the unit from @Fun Engineer years ago) . If I ever recover from food poisoning (don't ask) . I will take pictures of Dave unit for you guys.
-
3 pointswhat about just using a series of heatsinks with a nice little fan behind it to circulate the unclaimed heat?
-
3 pointsI managed to get the pivot separated from the blade using a hydraulic jack as I seen done for the axle hubs.
-
3 pointsNewest additions, a cigarette lighter and a USB port for charging my phone 😂 The Beagle owns the rig, I just drive it.
-
3 points@WHX?? agree with the stainless never seize lubricant , the stainless I use is the real thing , 316 -food grade stainless , left over from my work days , not the Chinese garbage they sell today , always flat washer it during build , no galling at any point , smooth threading , no problems, pete
-
3 pointsI agree with @Achto on the Magic Heat reclaimed. We used one for years in the old garage. It worked great. It was really nice with the thermostatic controlled fan option. I also agree with @roadapples with the periodic "let it roar" concept. Ours used to be 8ft of stove pipe straight up from the stove, attached to a suspended brick chimney. We would let it roar in the morning. While tending the stove we would tap on the pipe with an old lead smelting ladle and let the creosote fall in and burn off. We never used "good" wood in the garage. It was always standing dead. Spruce,fir,pine,hackmatack,poplar heck even alder. Never had to clean the chimney in 10yrs. Checked it twice a season.
-
3 pointsI use the cardboard method myself for hardware with 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of finish. Good results with small artist type brush for touch ups if needed @41chevy
-
3 pointsSpend some time mowing lawn or clearing snow and you'll quickly fall in love with a hydro. The ability to switch directions by simply moving the lever forward and back is very handy.
-
3 points
-
2 pointsYou could indeed. The C-160 I got was from a guy who got it from his dad. This guy worked and collected hot rod chevys--way beyond my pay grade. i think the problem was a weak connection to the Ammeter., very common..Even though the hot rod guy could not find the problem, i brought a battery and put my thumb over the spark plug hole and knew it had some compression. Did the work around simple wiring and the deep thump from the single cyl makes me smile every time. i agree get one and save it. i haven't been skunked yet by buying the tractors that do not run. i have a 141 for 200 that came with a blade ,deck and a pull handle for non running pickup trucks. it has a sloppy cylinder that begs to be rebuilt, My first rebuild will be the raider10 that got me into C style series to start with. Even if you don't have a complete tractor, just buy a simple machine without an engine and put in a little predator. Savin it still is a starting point and stuff to improve it will find you. THE guys here are great. i traded a briggs to a kid who was briefly on this forum for a 8 HP k engine. Eric gave me some blue tins that i buffed off since the one i traded for lacked some stuff. not repainting those tins, as they tell a story So, yeah the origins of the the thread is saving these mowers
-
2 pointsThe more I do with this one the more I like it. I started getting the front wheels prepped for the new tri ribs.I want to try to keep the original patina but inside the wheels needs new paint I hope to get them mounted in the near future. I want to get the electrical as close to original as I can. I'm waiting on some bulb pigtails to arrive to start on rewiring.
-
2 points
-
2 points@Jrain might sun suggest an oil lubrication rub down to save patina , and have it shed moisture like a good wax job . aerosol lubricant of your choice and a clean rag , let it soak in for a day or 2 , rub it down till dry and do it again . wd40 ,marvel mystery oil, etc . done that on every old dried steel that I have ever got , once that lubricant feeds the paint , you have saved what's there . also done that , and finished with a cleaning polish ,and 6 " palm buffer . brought the paint right out , really a surprising finish , do what ever you would like , pete