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Picked up this 315-8 last night. 337hrs she cleaned up pretty good after 6hrs of work lol.. runs and drives great. I’ll post more pictures once I get my new tires on it.

Replaced the seat pan with the correct one. Purchased a new seat and installed the seat springs correctly. Wiped a little dirt off. Starting to look a little better. Before After

All of my tractors are under my garage, except for the 656. It has the snowblower? on it, up in the garage. I sometimes have trouble getting up into the door on wet grass, let alone snow. All the batteries except 2 are less than a year old. Even getting the batteries out of the tractors would be a chore. "The children were nestled, all snug in their beds, while visions of spring time danced in their heads"

I’ve done too many diesel swaps to count lol

Getting chores done after a fruitless hunt this morning.

As most here on RedSquare see… I watch one of my nieces twice a week on normal weeks. Last year, she claimed “Joe” as her own. I can’t much argue that either, but I might have to treat him as my own for a few more years… at least until she can reach the pedals! It’s funny that she claimed a 1054… “Chloe” the newest 953 has been her go-to since she showed up!

My batteries stay in the tractor and are connected to battery tenders. Since I don't want to have to replace the batteries all at the same time, once they get 2 years old I start testing them. I'll put new batteries in the 2 tractors that work a lot and swap the better of the remaining around. My 1045 is a PITA to change the battery so I pretty much leave that one alone. I usually end up replacing 2 batteries a year. Once one gets 3 years old I figure it's on borrowed time. The battery ages are staggered enough to where I can not have to buy them all at once. Plus I end up having a decent battery on the bench for my engine stand and testing trailer lights ect.

We got a few inches of snow last night. I had to take the 875 out to play in it. I'm sure the snow didn't need to be cleared from the driveway but what fun would that be.

Are any of them ready to offer remuneration to grandpa to get to the top of the "dibs" list?

A yanmar L100(Italian) or clone(china) would be the best option I think. It is only 10hp but they are plenty strong. They will just bolt in and fit under the hood.. A hatz is also a good option, I had a generator with a Hatz (german) engine. I also know Kubota makes small 1cyl engines. But don't forget, you don't have to do it to safe weight I am currently installing this Lombardini (Italian) 14hp. But the hood will have to be lifted quite a bit. If your grandson is going to do it, let us now, because installing a diesel engine has some special things over a gas engine. Like a kill switch or the decomp.

There’s plenty of game in these parts. Just being picky. I have a 10 point and an 11 point on my game cameras. Holding out hope they make a mistake!

All my stored tractors and batteries are always plugged into trickle chargers. They in turn are connected to timers only working up to 8 hours. I have here batteries that are about 9 years old.

Not a bad swap. I put a 10HP chinese one in a gear drive a while back . Shallow Water Sailor ended up with it. Price for new engines almost doubled in the last few years. Not sure on used stuff, figure it is still high. The old black hood was good because it had enough room to fit the engine without cutting.

I haven't been out yet in Ma. But the bucks are moving, seen a big buck today cross the road when I was delivering some eggs for my wife. I did get lucky in Connecticut last week.

Maybe you could use a gearbox like I had on my C mine is 1:1 but think they make it in different ratios. Steeringwheelshaft with a U-joint coming in, and the steeringshaft going out.

3 to 10 years most closer to 5 on the battery life. A word of caution on the cheap tenders, they can ruin a battery. I like the Deltran jr. (ones 3/4 amp) Recently got a Viking from Harbo Fright, and it is awesome but pricey at 37 us. The viking is totally automatic, goes from 4 amp charge to maintain mode. I really like the readout that shows the battery voltage and turns red when in charge mode then green in maintain mode. Batties? Don't need no batteries!

The small engine repair shop we use told me if a new U1 battery isn't maintained by the owner they average 2 or 3 seasons. If the owner uses the machine year round or uses a charger properly they average 4 or 5 years. @Achto your area is a flippin' bargain for batteries!! The lowest price here is usually about $32 and that's for a low CCA. The ones we get from the above mentioned repair shop are $42. 275 CCA. Couple seasons ago I had a 190 CCA in the Cinnamon Horse C160 and it wouldn't even turn it fast enough to start. That was actually the episode that led me to the larger and far more powerful group 51.

Our insurance obligates unplugging all batteries from machines that do not get used on regularly basis. Like over a winter periode

I keep my tractors on a Battery Tender year round while they are parked. I would recommend checking the electrolyte level once a month or two, as I’m pretty sure any charger constantly hooked up will tend to “dry out” the battery. Non maintenance batteries don’t seem to be an issue. As far as homeowners insurance, the ones I use ( Battery Tender brand ) is UL laboratory tested and rated, so I don’t see where it would be any more dangerous than a coffee pot… in fact I would bet coffee pots have burned more houses down than battery chargers.

In the mid '70s tractors the tray is larger than it is in the older mid-60s tractors. And Trina's older tractors we use the standard U1. In my later model C series I use a car battery, group 51. I get them from the salvage yard when they're available for about 30 bucks a piece. If we are not going to run a tractor for the season we take the battery out and leave it in the basement workshop. I put a 1 amp manual trickle charger on it for a couple days every 4 to 6 weeks.

That isn't a trickle charger -- it is a full range charger that can throttle down to a trickle! I'd read its instructions carefully as I doubt it was intended to be connected to more than one or two batteries at the same time. Trickle chargers (or more commonly "battery tenders") typically deliver 0.8 amps or less.

Looks like I need to watch the classifieds closer and go to the big show! I found out yesterday his little brother wants the 854 six speed. Grandkids are collecting earlier than I anticipated, but that is a good thing.

connecting them together seemed to work for a few years, then one year one battery went down, pulling the others down and causing all the batteries to overcharge even with a maintainer (at least I guess that's what happened I had 4 bad batteries at once). Now I have a couple maintainers that I move around from battery to battery every week or two and that seems to work fine. The couple tractors I use year round don't have any problem.

At least he is interested in them. Gives him something to do with his hands and keeps him out of trouble. Sounds like either way you were going to lose something

No problem connecting all and maintaining charge. I made up a "harness" and can connect all or any of my batteries to a trickle / maintenance charger. Not a bad idea to make sure each on is fully charged with your regular charger first.

Mine for 6 of my tractors and 2 cars I just make sure are fully charged then put on a shelf that I mounted high in the shop out of the way. They sit there until spring. Never had one lose a charge over the winter yet. Shop is heated though so they would never freeze.

If you keep batteries connected with out a constant charger a weak battery will draw down the others. I have 7 batteries to maintain so 7 battery tenders.

Only good way to keep them charged is to drive each one at least every-other week.

After checking the vin -number, that was moved from its original location. I found out my c161 is actually a c121. Yesterday I brought the 3th and final engine option home. I am scrapping the longitudinal plan due to it being not practical. I am sorry.. And I will also not be using the M16.... I am sorry, you will be mad on me.... mainly Kohler parts are getting hard to find and so they are also very expensif. So I picked up this Lombardini LDA 510 1cyl 31ci 14hp OHV aircooled engine that weighs in at 190lbs (same weight as a K582). It has a rope and an electric start. It also has a decomp because the compression ratio. The engine has a french nickname: "l'inarrestable" translation: "The Unstoppable" The 2" hood lift is not enough for the engine to fit. It also is fully pressure lubricated and has a screw-on oilfilter. and an oilfilled airfilter

Hatz: https://www.hatz-belgium.be/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Hatz_Brochure_line-up_en_70034937.pdf Yanmar: https://yanmarengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/L-Series-Brochure-2016-No-Cover.pdf Lombardini: https://www.varriale.com/en/lombardini-engines/ the new ones get made in china

Eatons have a habit as they age- they freewheel quite a bit. Some say that is indicative of it showing wear. Personally I don't agree with that. The strongest Eaton I have ever had freewheels. It's strong as a mountain goat. But to get back to the question, the difference between auto and hydro: I think hydrostatic sounded cooler on a sales brochure. The term automatic was just dated. Hydro was just a new word at the time, and maybe John Deere called thier new autos hydrostatic. Also maybe the hydraulic lift equipped models needed a cool moniker to differentiate from manual lift models at that exact time. I don't think there was much more to it than that. Two things WH did above and beyond building quality machines: Constantly create models out of last year's excess parts, and break the rules of their own naming schemes.

I shoe horned a 10hp 1B40 Hatz diesel into a short frame square hood. New price on the Hatz is ridiculous, I got mine at a work auction for a song. Had to raise the hood to fit it with out cutting a hole. No regrets though, more power than I can use and it takes about 10hrs to burn through 1.5gal of fuel. If you do some looking on line you can find some China built air cooled 10 to 12hp diesels for $400 to $1000. You might think that 10 to 12hp is not enough for a 20hp tractor but trust me when I say that I have yet to get my 10hp Hatz to pull on the governor. It just purrs along barely working no matter what I throw at it.

The real question is ~ why are you huntin' fruit???

He's used to everywhere else and will check back in a few days

the entire transaxle?

There is such a thing as a 1267. 1967 12 hp electric start 6 speed I think it is.

The oldest one here by no means an exception. Check date.

Our 310-8 winters in a shed in a very cold locale with no electric service. We park it in mid-October and don't see it again until mid-April. We use a small, regulated solar battery tender (~1amp) whenever the tractor is parked. So far so good.

I am estimating an additional 2" hood lift will be enhough if I relocate the fueltank. Making the hood 4" taller then stock. I am going to try it so it looks stock.

Yep. It was an experiment, and it was on the street, not my driveway or yard. I left mere scratches compared to the scrape marks the village's giant Case loader makes picking up the piles.

Italics and underscore added. Trickle chargers typically do not have the capacity to charge a battery (hence the term "trickle"). Having the batteries all fully charged before ganging them up is necessary. Also, as noted, a failed battery can "bring down" all the others in the "gang".

You guys may want to install a rubber on the blad when doing leaves. My rear grader has a rubber band , a part from a conveyor belt to preserve the asphalt. Just my Don't think it would be the best for snow tho....

If the batteries to be placed in parallel are all of the same capacity AND they are all of similar level of charge at the start, no worries. The highest charged unit will discharge into the lowest until they all stabilize. Potentially, that's a pant load of current. Picture jumping a car battery when the cables are connected. The trickle charger will have quite the job as well! Be careful.

I will try and make it fit, I think relocating the fueltank will bring me a far way. The inner pulley is pretty close heightwise as a kohler. The motor will need to move a bit more to the leftside of the tractor. The two outer pulleys are on a internal clutch that engages when the engine is spun-up. Maybe interesting for some things and since I have two horses with manual WH pto's. I think I will keep it. Maybe a mowing deck that only spins when you have sufficient engine rpm? @ebinmaine or a compressor that brings down the rpm of the engine is when no more air is needed and the clutch disengages those pulleys....

Very good point, seems it has mainly been done on manuals, were you experience a great difference. This is the power curve for a real yanmar L100. Max torque @2400rpm

Found it! @John Voss did a terrific job! https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/86623-520-8-3-cylinder-diesel-conversion-finished/?tab=comments#comment-868979

I was going to suggest once a month but I only have four or five tractors to winter over. Not 10 or more or whatever.

Nope, that is the new price her in Europe too, Lombardini is around the $3300. Yanamar is a bit cheaper at $2600 (European prices have been converted from € to $)

https://www.hatz-diesel.com/en/services/salesservice-network/salesservice-network/?no_cache=1

I've been working on this project off and on for just short of 4 years. This tractor has all my favorite tractor components. Diesel, 8 speed, 3 point, and gear reduction steering. The engine is a 3 cylinder Shibuara from a Ford LGT14d. As you can guess, it was not easy to find room for everything under the hood. But with the help of some skilled welding friends we made it all work. The 3 point is winch operated, and works very well. I plan to put a loader on the tractor down the road when I am able to find one. I was only able to post a few pictures in the thread, but if you want to see images from the every step in the build I included a google photos album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Hoxk1nWrTwBiJP37 The start of the project Final Mock Up Paint