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Seen this on FB for sale. Really nifty.

So, we sold our 2020 Silverado in June to Carvana, now our 2015 LTZ Suburban last night to Car Max. Carvana and Car Max are competing so strong against each other, it’s surely a seller’s market right now for the newer stuff. In both transactions, we made enough money to pay off our loans and purchase another older vehicle. The 2020 sale made for our 1999 flat bed farm truck and the 2015 sale paid for our “new” 1997 Suburban out of Aurora, CO. We basically have about $1,100 into transport fees and PayPal fees to make the purchase. The transport was $800 and I’ll take a $300 fee to avoid interest rates on a loan any day. Between the two auto loans, we just cut $1,200/month out of our required spending. Fuel costs are a bit higher for the replacements, but they won’t be driven as far as you’d think. If you’re in an area of rust, consider looking in CO, OK, TX, ND, etc. where snow is either non-existent or they just don’t use salt. You’ll never regret it! The white suburban already had more rust than the black one!

BOOO! This evening I hope to scare the daylights out of our 5 and 3 year old grandkids. All my props rely on gravity and are triggered with tug lines. The ghost on the zip line will chase us down the yard. Bats will fall out of the tree and an LED bug will fly down a 30' zip line made of fishing line. No photo but there is also a motion detector security light in the trees. The finale is 3 parts, another LED bug taking flight as the shed double doors violently open. A delayed action by the doors will release a bright lanten sliding down a track as if is coming for the kids

Thought I'd share this video with you. Bet the young ladies on that tractor would not have been having so much fun if that chain would have broke and come flying at them.

Cut the nipple off straight, leaving about 1/2" sticking out. Take a cold chisel and a 2 lb ball peen hammer, place chisel perpendicular to engine and tap firmly with hammer. The nipple will cave in easily and you can turn out with a pair of pliers without ruining threads. Use new nipple to chase threads...turn in and then back out a little at a time (like it was a tap).

Installed a Johnny Products Uni-Sleeve on my 1968 Raider 12. Bought it for another tractor but decided to sell the other tractor and bought my Raider. I fabbed up the bracket for the switch and the hitch adapter myself. Also had to modify it slightly (had to cut notches at the top) to clear the seat/fenders when its open.

my front end Friday

The thing about those nipples, they are usually so thin that a pipe wrench can collapse the metal and rip it and still leave the threads in the engine. When you use the hammer and chisel method, you collapse the threads in the engine enough that they break loose and turn right out.

" we just cut $1,200/month out of our required spending." Just think how many pop machines you can buy with that!

This one is from the 14th century. All wood carvings gilded with gold leaf with the exception of tabernacle door which is solid golf.

Run a hacksaw blade in and out till you just start to touch the threads, that will weaken the pipe so that it collapses a bit. oldlineman was quicker on the trigger.

You could also use a hacksaw blade and CAREFULLY split the pipe being careful not to cut the block threads and collapse the pipe nipple with a small chisel and small hammer, being careful of the cast iron block. Patiences will be your friend! Bob

So, how much did you pay for it and when will you be picking it up?

Here is a 228F I found new in the box, I will probably fire it up at some point though!

Moved some tractors, implements & engines around with the FEL tonite . My Lord how did I get along without this tractor. My back thanks it. Now all I have to do is get someone to hook and unhook for me so I never have to get off the tractor! Got some light duty forks ordered for it but on the slow boat I guess. Be nice to stack decks & motors on a pallet and pick the whole thing up. After giving it several workouts @cschannuth she does not like to back up hills with the weights we have on her despite the loaded tires. She has a tendency to dig. All soft sand around her tho and cursed to live on a hill. Forwards not much of a problem. Building a ballast box/chain box for her see out that helps.

You improvise when the color you're looking for is unobtainable.

I changed the trans fluid in my 1987 414-8 today after nearly 10 years of ownership. I bought it from the original owners estate and it was a low hour machine. I have used it for mowing and gardening for most of the 10 years I have owned it. The trans grease was rusty colored and foamy but drained out well. I did elevate the front and used an old grease bottle and hose to suck out the grease that was below the drain leavel, about 8 ounces. Added two quarts of new grease and hopefully good for another 34 years!

Nope, he wanted the extra weight for more traction. I noticed that this engine has a three chime whistle. Bet it sounds nice.

My new WH project tractor

All- when you arrive tomorrow please do not drive in the driveway. I just recently had it re paved. Pic shows the 2x blocks I put in front of the curb. Please drive over those and follow down the right side of the yard to the barn. Safe travels all!

Loaded….

So if salt is the issue and your debt free, just move down here. The only salt is on the beach, in the Gulf and on the rim of a Margarita glass. Also no snow.

Couple of my non-runners waiting for some love from me.

TJ, you could put a chisel on it the way it is and have it out in 1 1/2 minutes. Really easy and the best way to do it.

If they are tough enough to withstand my family, they’re probably tough enough for anything.

Yes you can...it should bolt right in. There is a difference though...the 310-8 transmission has 1" axles with a 4 pinion differential...the 416-8 transmission has 1 1/8" axles with an 8 pinion differential.

Simple used engine oil will prevent rust as well. If you need to, drill some access holes so that it can be sprayed into the doors. Do this about every 6 months. Note - Repair any existing rust before using any type of petroleum product for rust preventative. You will have a very difficult time making paint stick if there is oil seeping out of the metal.

I completely agree, for the most part it is American companies that buy from china and resell it to us. We have demanded the cheapest products for a long time now and vote with our buying power, we are getting exactly what we asked for. Now we have an economy based on buying, not building. Wages are low and we are told we can't raise wages or it will ruin our economy. I call BS, there was a time normal working folks could buy a house and raise there kids. Even with just one income, hard to make it on two now. My folks bought a new Zenith tv in the 60's that cost 600 bucks and they used it for 25 years. Nobody wants anything for 25 years now except us tractor guys!!! Randy

Old Coleman parts is a great place for parts and they have a great forum as well. Here is a link for your generator. https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1&keep_https=yes Here is the forum. https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/ Randy

Though the Eaton 1100 is stronger the 700 will get the job done for mowing and other normal chores. If you do decide to change over to the 1100 and want to use the hydraulic lift your biggest challenge will be changing rock shaft. Part #46 would be replaced by part #9 and pressed into part #19. However parts #19 and #46 tent to be "Brown Welded" (rusted) together.

Yes , one especially nice feature to gain is the hydraulic lift. Any hydro machine with a hydraulic lift is a candidate but the 3xxH is a best fit. My daughter mowed the an acre of grass for years with a 700, ran great. If it runs okay, you should consider changing the hydro oil. It is captive and not part of the rear end. I have done one and shown are the pictures of the hydro control linkage difference. Not a big deal but some little parts are needed. If you don't need the hydraulic lift, you can run the filter hose around and reconnect eliminating the lift circuit . And for one pallet of that beer, I would do it free! 700 linkage 1100 Linkage

Yes the 1054 is a great Wheel Horse model garden tractor. The 953/1054 models were a big hit in 1963 to 1966 when wheel horse introduced them. The first 48 mower deck, a heavy duty snowplow and snowblower, and substantial design features like no other garden tractor at the time including a hydraulic pump and cylinder for mid and rear attachment lifting and lowering! Love it and it will be good to you!

A always use a alloy-zinc spray and then a mettalic flake spray

When I had all seven suitcase weights on there it always did really well so I think once you get some more weight back there you’ll be in good shape. Of course, my 250 pounds sitting on the seat probably didn’t hurt anything either, ha ha.

Welcome to the Forum. This topic has been airing recently. One thread (which started as a 700 diagnostic and moved toward replacement with an 1100) is here but there are others (search for "Eaton 1100 700" in Topics) . Also, at the top of the page, under "Browse" is the Manuals section -- lots of good stuff there. Search with terms like "tractor" "312-A" and the year of your tractor. Likely the OM and IPL (Owner manual and illustrated parts list) are there. Another useful search is on the "Eaton Hydro" to see the various Eaton manuals so you can see what's relevant to you. The loaded pallet in the background of you picture is sure to get some comments, so be ready!

Here is a lantern box my Dad made in the 70's and we packed it everywhere camping when I was a kid. I have it and the 200A Dad used always used too. I repainted it once and I would like to redo it again and go Coleman green this time. Randy

Best way to eat your vegetable's - Feed them to an animal and then eat the animal.

Spent a little time with the newest member of my herd over the last couple of days. "Pale Face" as @WHX?? calls him showed up as a non-runner with a few pieces missing, most of the pieces were included with him though. Yesterday I spent some time getting the steering wheel off, installing a dash and getting the cables to move. The throttle cable had to be replaced but the choke cable was savable. Tonight I pulled the bowl off from the carb and was happy to see that it was relatively clean. After seeing this I checked the vitals, performed some field triage, and hooked up an IV bottle. I'm happy to report that the engine purrs like a kitten. I still need to flush the gas tank, replace the petcock, and finish running new fuel line. Tomorrows project. Then I can shake down the rest of the tractor. No boot on the shifter so I can imagine that the inside of the tranny will be a hot mess.

Hi, I’m a newer wheelhorse owner, I have an ‘85 314-A and I was wondering how difficult and if at all possible it was to swap the Eaton 700 that came with my 314-A for the bigger better Eaton 1100. TIA👍🏻

It's a Wheel Horse trademark.

Nope.

@Pullstart agree with you on a number of issues , tiny house not far from me just sold for $ 265 ! got to take advantage of your situation if you can . get a couple of cases of lubriplate , chain and cable lube and extra heavy open gear spray . green can and black can . bombproof rustproofing , green can lighter cable fluid for closed seam areas , fender joint areas , watch it creep . then over spray with the heavy open gear spray . no rust any ware , touch up as needed . been doing this for years . rot free, pete

We've left Maine headed to visit family today in Massachusetts and stay in CT tonight. REALLY looking forward to seeing everyone!

That’s what it sounded like, but your second explanation helped solidify that. Sway bar end links. They’re practically a 3/8” bolt that feeds through the sway bar and lower control arm. Easy peasy. I couple washers, bushings and a spacer tube and a nut. I’d say cut the old ones off with a sawzall or cut off wheel and replace them both at the same time. If you dry fit them with no tools, you should be able to get them assembled just fine - then tighten them. As for the CV shafts, they take (I think) a 36mm socket and a good breaker bar to get them loose from the hub and (also I think) a 15mm box end wrench or socket to unbolt them from the differential. You should be able to do that without popping the spindles off the a-arms. A dead blow hammer or a big hammer and a block of wood will drive the axle splines out of the hub once it’s apart. I’m a firm believer in DIY as we all pretty much are. Buying whatever tools you need for this job are likely cheaper than paying for it to be done, if you’re able to do it. I know that some day, I won’t be able to turn wrenches like I do now, but if you can there is nothing to be concerned with as far as doing something wrong. Neither of those items affect alignment, just handling and 4 wheel drive

Yep I remember my dad going and buying at a pump. White gas was also used in the old skool blow torches. I have a can of Coleman and always wanted to try it in mine but too chicken. In the day all auto repair shops had one. We have seen them in use yet in the black smith booths at tractor shows. One of mine has the optional reflector . I can't believe Green has not chimed in .... bet he has a hundred of them. He showed pics of them hanging off his horses and we told him one if by land two if by sea..... Think he's been busy at the salt mine. These two were rescued out of a garbage can!