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Swapped out the 22x7.50 rears and the 15x6x6 fronts on my 308 for some 23x9.50 and 16x16.50’s. Much cooler

Hey everyone, I picked up a ‘97 42” tall chute snowblower for my restored 418. Can’t wait to use it!! I had a Bervac 47” two stage but it was way too overkill for the area we live in and this one is like new. I had the two stage on a C-161 Automatic

Has anyone seen the movie secondhand Lion??? “There was this one traveling salesman!!!” 🤣😂. So with that said we now have a new addition to the herd!!!! Everybody’s excited about next year getting to pull it!!!

Nephew came over this afternoon and brought his little guy . I think the pictures say it all .

Got this seat for my C161 restoration. I really like it. Tractor supply, probably not the cheapest option but fit perfect and is supper comfortable. They call it low back but it is as high as my stock 520H seat I think. Anyway an option for you folks.

I thought this was a simple effective way to brace my IH Cub muffler using this unusual pipe fitting, a 1/2" plug and a little flat iron

A different view showing the 2nd brace. Both braces bolt directly to existing threaded holes in the block.

I have dried small areas and parts with a 300 w heat lamp, only took a little over a half hour. The parts would get too hot to handle, didn't hurt the paint. They use to bake enamel paint on cars had a booth with a bunch of heat lamps over head.

‘He definitely wants one too. I do havee this ugly mutt . It now has matching patina fenders.

I had a stepped bushing made for mine and we made an over sized pin so we didn"t have to drill the back hole or the axle. It was on my C-120 so the front hitch was removable. We drilled the hitch out to 1" the bushing is 1/2" thick 1/4" stepped down to under 1" I put it back together lined up the axle a welded the bushing.

Yeah, there is that! Excellent point. Unless the pin is dangerously worn, its probably undetectable. Keep it well lubed (with that grease @Peter Lena must own stock in ) and it'll likely work fine for the next 20 years!

Well the show is history. There was 620 judged cars they said. My car did not win in the 68-72 Muscle Car class. Here it is at the show.

This whole weekend was nothing but yard work. Hauling firewood to the shed, and mulching up leaves with the deck. Probably only have 1-2 more uses out of the deck this season before I have to put the blower on the machine and give the deck a nice coating of oil for the winter. Should be interesting wrestling the blower onto the machine. I’ve only ever had to take it off.

Oh man, the stories I have about my neighbor Grandpa Uncle Dave. Volumes! I do have one video, which I won't post here unless he gives me permission. It was his rant about cell phones. He's an old school TV/radio/electronics engineer. But his rant about the early days of cell phones where it was essentially one-way communication, well that really ground his gears. He would call me on my cell, all pissed and say, "Hi Echris, it's Dave, Over." LMAO!!! He wasn't wrong. But he knows more about everything than anyone I've ever known. It's freaky. We'll be talking about something and he'll say, "Well, I'm not a chemist but..." and then he'll go on and on about this complex chemical reaction, and you're not stupid but he quickly loses you and you want to reply, "F you Granda Uncle Dave, Not a chemical engineer. OK."

It's funny, my old neighbor bought a ~$10,000 Kubota 4WD, power steering, 3 Cyl diesel tractor a few years ago to mow his lawn. He's got some steep hills and is pushing 80 years old and has the cash, so good call. But every time we sit in my driveway and drink a few beers, he looks at the WH and says something like, "Cast iron freakin' pedals? MMMMM"

I got the new/used crank and rods for the engine. Everything was leaps and bounds better than I already had. I got the crank, both bearings, and both rods, for $60. I thought that was a deal. Both rods were in one piece, that's a BIG plus. My original crank didn't spec bad, but this new one just looked better to me, so I commenced to putting it back together while the jugs were cooking. I never removed the oil pump, as per manual suggestion, nor did I remove the governor gear or shaft. I saw no reason to. I know most will disagree with the practice of using thread locker on rod bolts/nuts, but I always do. It looks to me like the nuts on this rod simply backed off. The threads on both studs, and in the nuts were fine. I have seen this before in 2 cycle engines. Maybe it was a Friday and the guy assembling this motor was in a hurry, I don't know, but I don't expect them to back off again. When I took this motor apart, I made a diagram of all the bolts holding the block halves together. It's a good thing I did. I wasn't expecting it to be 7 or 8 weeks later. I am as far as I can go right now, until I get the new gasket set, and rings. Hopefully Monday

And so many parts are interchangeable. That’s a huge plus

Super easy to work on.

Spent the week in the Smokey Mountains. And drove the 6 hour trip home today.

Fatter is always better on tractor tires but rarely on women 😜

Electric lifts can be slow Hydraulic lift can be involved Lift assist springs can be added fairly cheap and easy Guess it all depends on the purpose for needing it.

Frankly, and emphatically, I disagree. The control valves for the 400 tractors are inside the hoodstand and have challenging hose or steel tubing hydro plumbing routing. Also, importantly, the hydro/manual lift rock shafts are different which means a LOT of disassembly and re-assembly (the rockshaft can be impossible to remove, if you read threads here). Plus, you need a place to put the hydro pump that doesn't interfere with whatever attachments you plan to use (mower, blower, snow blade, etc.) and connect it to the motor somehow! Minimally, you'd need donor parts for: Hydraulic pump, lift cylinder, rockhaft, control valve and linkage/lever, pressure relief valve (if not already incorporated in the pump or the control valve), hoses, oil filter holder and filter, oil reservoir (on the -H tractors, this is incorporated in the transaxle!), assorted fittings, and tin where the lift control exits the hoodstand. The 300, 400, and 500 "H" tractors with hydro lift are using the Eaton 1100--a hydro transmission, not an 8-speed with a separate pump--to get lift cylinder support. I merged the engine and topsides of a 518-H with the chassis, transmission, steering and hydraulics of a 520 but I already had hydro motion controls so except for fiddling to get the lift control settled and the motion linkages aligned, I had the parts I needed. @Stubby your advice is sound. Electric lift is possible but the parts come dear and, as you note, it requires new rockshaft AND new left side tin above the footrest as well. Best to either find a 416-H or 520-H with a blown motor and do an engine transplant, or just get a lift-equipped tractor.

Just chillin with the grandson today! Both my kids are here too, love it!

From my experience of doing a B80-8 I needed all the parts from a donor if the same manufacturing period of the C160 thus I assume you will need the same from a 416H. It was pretty easy to do.

Not Wednesday...

I have a 2-stage snowblower on my 417-8, and I use TWO coil springs to assist the the electric lift. I use the one that has been discussed and mounted on the 'flag'. Then a second one up front attached vertically at the front of the frame. I'll try to get a picture to you tomorrow. Jim

Vine well over 100 years old still producing grapes. I remember as a child being told by my grandfather that his father already had told him it was there when he was a child. The only one left like that. This tree of the palm family was crucial to the vineyard maintenance. The leaves were split into thin “strings” and used to tie vines during pruning time. There was no string available to purchase so one had to be resourceful. It’s actually incredibly strong and resistant to rot.

Quick clean and paint on the C-160 wheels.

Guys, I find myself in a situation. I have a completely restored C161 8-speed that needs a hood. The original hood has rust through in the heat affected zone. Thoughts on repair? I’m in a pinch and was thinking Louvers. Like the stainless ones from a boat. I could cut it out and re-weld in new metal but it would not be pretty. You can’t tig weld that much thin metal without distorting everything. Thoughts? Someone must have repaired damage like this before. Pics for reference.

Never see them around here but this was within a days round trip AND it has the rear PTO AND the 3-point! I drove further and paid more than I've bought in better condition and a lot closer. But this is first I've seen for sale within a days drive. Had to have it! And I did something I would never recommend, I bought it without it running. So while I have a real good feeling for the seller I don't actually know what works... But, I'm pretty sure she'll all work but it will be a while before I have time to confirm. Model plate was not much help but I gather it is NOT an 84 since the hydro controls are placed like the 82-83 years but I have no idea which of those two years. Wish it had less rust but there's nothing here I can't fix with some time. If the hood is not a C-195 only then I'd swap hoods. Very pleased to have one but I can't explain why. I have NO interest in using it as a mower but if I had a 60" deck I might. I have NO rear pto driven attachments that fit it and while I have lots of clevis attachments I have NO CAT 0 implements to fit it! Not sure what all attachments there was but I've seen pics of a rear finish mower and a pretty big tiller. Wouldn't mind having a small brush cutter if they made one or if I could mod something. The larger tiller is interesting but I already have a WH rear tiller, a front and rear walk behind and 3-4 little ones. I suppose the 54" dozer blade would be nice. I'd love a mid-mount grader blade! I've read that some D model attachments can work but finding the C-195 was tough enough, I NEVER see any D stuff around here.

And the crazy thing is, it's not just about how many attachments are available, it's also how easy it is to switch from one to the other.

My favorite thing about Is all the different things they can do. And do it well.

You have no idea... He told a story of him and the Mrs. when they were dating. They climbed a tree and together sat in the crotch of a branch and he kissed her and said to her, "Mary, I kissed you in the crotch." They were dancing one time and he's kinda squishing his hands on her shoulder blades and when she questions him he replies, "I'm feeling the back of your T!ts." EDIT: I forgot to mention the most important part. "Mary", backs up every one of these stories. Ha!

If you're talking about Farm and Implement by Rust-Oleum, it's pretty good stuff. Very high gloss content as compared to most rattle can paint.

When I run Mongo with a snowthrower into the snow pile the plows leave at the end of the driveway and the Magnum 18 growls with power but doesn't miss a beat makes me smile

I think a good body shop could easily weld that hole shut for you.The day after I restored my C-121 Auto the paint bubbled in that exact spot after a five minute ride. I almost lost my mind as it was also the day before the big show. I just let it cool and slowly sprayed water on it with a spray bottle. I personally showed this to Cecil Pond at the show( that’s me, him and his wife Betty in the picture to the left right after our conversation) he looked at it and said “Well that’s not a very good design now is it ?!” I ended up making a heat shield around the muffler and repainting the lower portion of the hood.

An hour or so later, the cardboard which is directly in line with the heat lamp is cool enough to the touch that I'm confident it will be OK to leave on overnight. 75W's isn't all that much heat. I'll check again in a few hours, but it looks like it'll be fine overnight.

Or key in input pulley .Bob

Check to see if one of the rear axles is spinning in one of the wheel hubs. A sheared Woodruff key in one axle is all it takes.

Swap out the heat lamp for a regular 40 or 60W bulb--not max heat, but something?

That is the exact stuff. I'm gonna block sand it and wait a couple days before repainting. Very little compound will be left- just in the scratches and pits. It isn't a full covering, because I'll take it back almost to bare metal agian.

Very nice.

Nice find. My brother has a jeep just like that only it’s white. It is old enough it still has a carburetor and it can be a bit finicky but they love that thing. With regard to sticks, if I buy a vehicle and a stick is available that’s what we get. My whole family can drive a stick including my 20 year old daughter. The new automatics are much faster and smoother than a stick but I like being able to dictate what gear the vehicle is in.

Been there myself as well as a few others on here. Glad to see you back in one piece. You seem to have everything you need by the looks, plenty of tractors, a roof that doesn't leak, a cute dog, a pickup truck and plenty of friends on here. What else does a real man need. Good luck going forward. You know, not much more! Sure beats the heck out of what I had! I hope no one has gone through that! Now to recover and get on with my life! Better every day!

Went to see my close friend. Countless hours and nights spent making love to it. My favorite and most proud of ,accomplishment as a woodworker. I was extremely happy to find it beautifully kept, and proudly displayed.It has oxidized into an astonishingly beautiful tone.

Ready for leaves and… then… snow…!!!