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Swapped out the 22x7.50 rears and the 15x6x6 fronts on my 308 for some 23x9.50 and 16x16.50’s. Much cooler

Hey everyone, I picked up a ‘97 42” tall chute snowblower for my restored 418. Can’t wait to use it!! I had a Bervac 47” two stage but it was way too overkill for the area we live in and this one is like new. I had the two stage on a C-161 Automatic

Has anyone seen the movie secondhand Lion??? “There was this one traveling salesman!!!” 🤣😂. So with that said we now have a new addition to the herd!!!! Everybody’s excited about next year getting to pull it!!!

Nephew came over this afternoon and brought his little guy . I think the pictures say it all .

Got this seat for my C161 restoration. I really like it. Tractor supply, probably not the cheapest option but fit perfect and is supper comfortable. They call it low back but it is as high as my stock 520H seat I think. Anyway an option for you folks.

I thought this was a simple effective way to brace my IH Cub muffler using this unusual pipe fitting, a 1/2" plug and a little flat iron

A different view showing the 2nd brace. Both braces bolt directly to existing threaded holes in the block.

I have dried small areas and parts with a 300 w heat lamp, only took a little over a half hour. The parts would get too hot to handle, didn't hurt the paint. They use to bake enamel paint on cars had a booth with a bunch of heat lamps over head.

‘He definitely wants one too. I do havee this ugly mutt . It now has matching patina fenders.

I had a stepped bushing made for mine and we made an over sized pin so we didn"t have to drill the back hole or the axle. It was on my C-120 so the front hitch was removable. We drilled the hitch out to 1" the bushing is 1/2" thick 1/4" stepped down to under 1" I put it back together lined up the axle a welded the bushing.

Yeah, there is that! Excellent point. Unless the pin is dangerously worn, its probably undetectable. Keep it well lubed (with that grease @Peter Lena must own stock in ) and it'll likely work fine for the next 20 years!

Well the show is history. There was 620 judged cars they said. My car did not win in the 68-72 Muscle Car class. Here it is at the show.

This whole weekend was nothing but yard work. Hauling firewood to the shed, and mulching up leaves with the deck. Probably only have 1-2 more uses out of the deck this season before I have to put the blower on the machine and give the deck a nice coating of oil for the winter. Should be interesting wrestling the blower onto the machine. I’ve only ever had to take it off.

Oh man, the stories I have about my neighbor Grandpa Uncle Dave. Volumes! I do have one video, which I won't post here unless he gives me permission. It was his rant about cell phones. He's an old school TV/radio/electronics engineer. But his rant about the early days of cell phones where it was essentially one-way communication, well that really ground his gears. He would call me on my cell, all pissed and say, "Hi Echris, it's Dave, Over." LMAO!!! He wasn't wrong. But he knows more about everything than anyone I've ever known. It's freaky. We'll be talking about something and he'll say, "Well, I'm not a chemist but..." and then he'll go on and on about this complex chemical reaction, and you're not stupid but he quickly loses you and you want to reply, "F you Granda Uncle Dave, Not a chemical engineer. OK."

It's funny, my old neighbor bought a ~$10,000 Kubota 4WD, power steering, 3 Cyl diesel tractor a few years ago to mow his lawn. He's got some steep hills and is pushing 80 years old and has the cash, so good call. But every time we sit in my driveway and drink a few beers, he looks at the WH and says something like, "Cast iron freakin' pedals? MMMMM"

I got the new/used crank and rods for the engine. Everything was leaps and bounds better than I already had. I got the crank, both bearings, and both rods, for $60. I thought that was a deal. Both rods were in one piece, that's a BIG plus. My original crank didn't spec bad, but this new one just looked better to me, so I commenced to putting it back together while the jugs were cooking. I never removed the oil pump, as per manual suggestion, nor did I remove the governor gear or shaft. I saw no reason to. I know most will disagree with the practice of using thread locker on rod bolts/nuts, but I always do. It looks to me like the nuts on this rod simply backed off. The threads on both studs, and in the nuts were fine. I have seen this before in 2 cycle engines. Maybe it was a Friday and the guy assembling this motor was in a hurry, I don't know, but I don't expect them to back off again. When I took this motor apart, I made a diagram of all the bolts holding the block halves together. It's a good thing I did. I wasn't expecting it to be 7 or 8 weeks later. I am as far as I can go right now, until I get the new gasket set, and rings. Hopefully Monday

And so many parts are interchangeable. That’s a huge plus

Super easy to work on.

Spent the week in the Smokey Mountains. And drove the 6 hour trip home today.

Fatter is always better on tractor tires but rarely on women 😜

Electric lifts can be slow Hydraulic lift can be involved Lift assist springs can be added fairly cheap and easy Guess it all depends on the purpose for needing it.

Frankly, and emphatically, I disagree. The control valves for the 400 tractors are inside the hoodstand and have challenging hose or steel tubing hydro plumbing routing. Also, importantly, the hydro/manual lift rock shafts are different which means a LOT of disassembly and re-assembly (the rockshaft can be impossible to remove, if you read threads here). Plus, you need a place to put the hydro pump that doesn't interfere with whatever attachments you plan to use (mower, blower, snow blade, etc.) and connect it to the motor somehow! Minimally, you'd need donor parts for: Hydraulic pump, lift cylinder, rockhaft, control valve and linkage/lever, pressure relief valve (if not already incorporated in the pump or the control valve), hoses, oil filter holder and filter, oil reservoir (on the -H tractors, this is incorporated in the transaxle!), assorted fittings, and tin where the lift control exits the hoodstand. The 300, 400, and 500 "H" tractors with hydro lift are using the Eaton 1100--a hydro transmission, not an 8-speed with a separate pump--to get lift cylinder support. I merged the engine and topsides of a 518-H with the chassis, transmission, steering and hydraulics of a 520 but I already had hydro motion controls so except for fiddling to get the lift control settled and the motion linkages aligned, I had the parts I needed. @Stubby your advice is sound. Electric lift is possible but the parts come dear and, as you note, it requires new rockshaft AND new left side tin above the footrest as well. Best to either find a 416-H or 520-H with a blown motor and do an engine transplant, or just get a lift-equipped tractor.

Just chillin with the grandson today! Both my kids are here too, love it!

From my experience of doing a B80-8 I needed all the parts from a donor if the same manufacturing period of the C160 thus I assume you will need the same from a 416H. It was pretty easy to do.

Not Wednesday...

I have a 2-stage snowblower on my 417-8, and I use TWO coil springs to assist the the electric lift. I use the one that has been discussed and mounted on the 'flag'. Then a second one up front attached vertically at the front of the frame. I'll try to get a picture to you tomorrow. Jim

Vine well over 100 years old still producing grapes. I remember as a child being told by my grandfather that his father already had told him it was there when he was a child. The only one left like that. This tree of the palm family was crucial to the vineyard maintenance. The leaves were split into thin “strings” and used to tie vines during pruning time. There was no string available to purchase so one had to be resourceful. It’s actually incredibly strong and resistant to rot.

Quick clean and paint on the C-160 wheels.

Guys, I find myself in a situation. I have a completely restored C161 8-speed that needs a hood. The original hood has rust through in the heat affected zone. Thoughts on repair? I’m in a pinch and was thinking Louvers. Like the stainless ones from a boat. I could cut it out and re-weld in new metal but it would not be pretty. You can’t tig weld that much thin metal without distorting everything. Thoughts? Someone must have repaired damage like this before. Pics for reference.

I know its a Wheel Horse. I know the engine is not the original. I'm new to red tractors. I've had and restored several of the older Sears Suburbans. This one found it's way to me and all the stickers have been painted over. The tires are dry and cracked but the engine and mower deck turn so I'm just wondering... Any Ideas about what this thing is? and what engine was on it originally? the starter spins if I jump it but doesn't engage the flywheel. ( probably why they quit using it) any thoughts or help would be appreciated. I don't really want to just get it running to use it as is. I'd rather restore it or pass it on to someone else that will... Don

Never see them around here but this was within a days round trip AND it has the rear PTO AND the 3-point! I drove further and paid more than I've bought in better condition and a lot closer. But this is first I've seen for sale within a days drive. Had to have it! And I did something I would never recommend, I bought it without it running. So while I have a real good feeling for the seller I don't actually know what works... But, I'm pretty sure she'll all work but it will be a while before I have time to confirm. Model plate was not much help but I gather it is NOT an 84 since the hydro controls are placed like the 82-83 years but I have no idea which of those two years. Wish it had less rust but there's nothing here I can't fix with some time. If the hood is not a C-195 only then I'd swap hoods. Very pleased to have one but I can't explain why. I have NO interest in using it as a mower but if I had a 60" deck I might. I have NO rear pto driven attachments that fit it and while I have lots of clevis attachments I have NO CAT 0 implements to fit it! Not sure what all attachments there was but I've seen pics of a rear finish mower and a pretty big tiller. Wouldn't mind having a small brush cutter if they made one or if I could mod something. The larger tiller is interesting but I already have a WH rear tiller, a front and rear walk behind and 3-4 little ones. I suppose the 54" dozer blade would be nice. I'd love a mid-mount grader blade! I've read that some D model attachments can work but finding the C-195 was tough enough, I NEVER see any D stuff around here.

@JPWH @SylvanLakeWH

Chould just insert a pin there to keep them levers from opening.

If you're talking about Farm and Implement by Rust-Oleum, it's pretty good stuff. Very high gloss content as compared to most rattle can paint.

They work…

I actually would not use stainless myself. Stainless has a tendency to 'gall' the threads after repeated tightening / loosening . Use steel, you won't be sorry!

Swap out the heat lamp for a regular 40 or 60W bulb--not max heat, but something?

It's going to get a bit chilly tonight and I really need this machine back in service, so I used my neighbors old trick. A few carboard boxes, a heat source and time. It will greatly speed the curing process. I just have to watch it over the next few hours while it comes up to temp to ensure there no fire hazards in there and adjust the venting and position of the 75w heat lamp as necessary. Parts hanging from #14/#12 wire I closed it up a bit and added a "security device" (pipe wrench to make sure the track lighting doesn't move ) Not sure if I'll leave it on overnight, although I'd love to. There's an awful lot of combustible liquids in the garage, not to mention a WH and my car. We'll see how hot it gets inside over the next few hours and then I'll decide.

This can be your best friend for us non-machinist guys that don't have access to the expensive equipment. https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-KFDRBSS7-Straight-Premium/dp/B01BNKGGWG/ref=asc_df_B01BNKGGWG?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80608039596521&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207586077490&th=1 I've easily and successfully bushed many axles by hand drilling them and using 7/8 OD x 3/4 ID bushings. That axle pivot point, the spindle holes and steering components. Pay attention to what you're doing, go slow and straight. There are some reamers available that don't have that stop section at the top of the flutes so you can go deeper through the hole like doing the spindle holes in the axle. I used to just ream them from both directions but then ground that stop off so I can just do them from top and leave the axle right on the tractor if the pivot was good. Don't forget to drill a hole in the new bushing for the grease zerk!

@ronhatch good simple call on that , using a pipe based flow fitting , helps assist immediate discharge flow , that gentle swept curve makes it work as it should , pete

There you go. I just recently learned what they are. Here these trees are so loaded with them that most think that it is the fruit. They actually grow more of them than they do acorns. When a child my mother actually used them as decorations on the Christmas tree, wrapping them in tiny aluminum or golden foil that was used to wrap candy. There wasn’t much and everything was saved and repurposed. Great memories.

Very nice.

I think @Jeff-C175 covered your questions very well. All that I can add is that many of us are too impatient to wait for paint to cure. Some alkyd (oil based) paints can take up to 30 days to fully cure. That is why I will use an acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel automotive type paint for my show quality paint jobs.

Old mock up of parts for 702 I have packed away. Just needs 62 only no bump generator/starter belt belt guard to be 100% correct .

Been there myself as well as a few others on here. Glad to see you back in one piece. You seem to have everything you need by the looks, plenty of tractors, a roof that doesn't leak, a cute dog, a pickup truck and plenty of friends on here. What else does a real man need. Good luck going forward. You know, not much more! Sure beats the heck out of what I had! I hope no one has gone through that! Now to recover and get on with my life! Better every day!

Before and after degreasing pressure wash side shots!

Well that’s a rap for now. Not 100% finished but all it needs to be perfect is some paint and grip tape on the floorboards. Very happy with the outcome.