Leaderboard

When you lift up on the large drawer it folds down into the desk to reveal the missing type writer.

Freshened up the ole k301 and had a bit of a face lift with the rattle can. New rings ,piston,Rod and valves .Replaced the aftermarket carb the previous owner had on there. No matter what I did to it ,couldn’t get it dialed in. So I replaced it with next size up #30 carb and runs great now.

Just trying to find out if anyone would be interested in a white 20oz tumbler with the Red Square logo on it and your user name or first name on the other side. Karl gave me the okay on this. I was going to donate some of each cup back to the site but he said I didn’t have to…. So I’ll give away one or two every once in while. The admins/mods name would be in blue and the supporter name would be in red just like on the site. The grey one in the picture is Karls but the rest will be white, unless you want grey. I have to run the lettering up the cup to be able to fit logo and name on them. Price will be $35 plus shipping.

Trina and I have names for a lot of the paths in the forest based on something that was or is there. We've been thinking about putting up signs for a little while. Basically to get a laugh out of friends when they come over to go for a walk in the forest. As we go year to year expanding the areas that we pull firewood we create loops or extend existing pathways. For this year's meet and greet we took some time and did that a little more. We also took the time to make up a map. Today, she made up some signs. I figured some of you clowns, twisted folk, and general 5-year-olds would get a kick out of this...

You're the last person on the planet who should comment on overloading a vehicle!

Come on now guys, if that was a round hood y’all would be all over the patina that horse has!!! Give it some love to get it mechanically sound. Then a wet sand and clear coat and it will look like a rugged worker. Horses are semi scarce in central Texas as well, but there around. since it has a front mule drive I would ask if they have a mower deck for it. Since it looks like it’s been setting outside a long time check if the rubber boot over the transmission shifter is in place. If not the transmission has water in it. If the area around the top of the shifter is really oily the transmission is full of water to the point that the water is pushing the oil out the shifter hole.

I have made a practice of adding Stable Gas Additive and Seafoam to every drop of Non-Ethanol Gas I buy. Also make an effort to run each for a while year round. Even though there is no grass to mow in the winter the 310-8 gets some exercise once a month. Same for the 953s, no shows to attend but quality seat time pulling a cart picking up fallen branches is good practice for the show dates to come. The GT-14 with FEL gets worked all year and the 418-C is in leaf blowing mode now and is my go-to snow mover for the winter months so it never sits idle. The 1055 is a back-up snow mover but gets out to push some dirt from time to time. Mine are never in storage, they just take turns putting a smile on my face.

Skid steer, FEL tractor, quad AND go-kart all on one deck! Geesh!

Got Busy covering the bottom of one of the 48" SD.....Rubberized truck bed liner, over POR-15.....VERY DURABLE. Have this treatment on a 42" and its been good for 5 years now. The bed liner is very smooth, sheds grass nicely. I do not mow WET grass, so have no info on that

I have a 48" deck and it was in worse condition than yours. I welded it up (braze welded) and made a STAINLESS STEEL liner for it, using cardboard as a template. It took some time and effort...but it'll last until the end of this century...or longer. I don't recall the gauge of SS I used, but it was malleable and easy weld the 'front' apron to the flat body.

A month and a half or so ago one of our powered recliners on our living room sectional stopped working...right around the morning after a BIG, close, lightning strike. ( It shook the house, and I about jumped out of my skivies ) I thought, well it took a voltage surge... Got my HF VOM and checked things out... Was getting 120 volts past the on/off button, fuse, and to the wiring harness up to the AC/DC converter, but the power light on the converter was not lit. Went to the jungle site and ordered one for about $20 or so and today when I got home I rolled the recliner over and hooked it up... We are horizontal again !

Coming together, all metal is painted and going back on. Should be interesting to fit the fender pan given the width of the electric lift. Has to fit cause it came apart!

Dude obviously flunked out of the “loaders anonymous school formerly known as @pullstart now known as @Pullhosen’s Pony Express school of extraordinary packing”… Way too much room left on that trailer…

From what I’ve heard , you can do better than that!

Naw, hs just a pup in training.

@SylvanLakeWH just for you buddy! If I had a pocket full of venison burger or meat sticks and some onions, I could have made a Wisconsin walking taco!

Did a little "Old School" mowing with HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! today!

I'll take one. (The cup that is... Not one of them WH's stolen from Michigan by @WHX?? and his merry band of @Pullhosen’s Pony Express horse thieves... Trying to return used up horses with curds in their bellies no doubt...) @19richie66 - Thx for the great idea and offer!

Mcmaster-Carr 24175K44

Yeah she already drinks "half caff". Her with a cup of my cowboy coffee is..... Interesting.

Working outof these two "offices" today.

I wanted to publicly thank Richie for the cooler that I won recently. It doesn’t have the patina of this old girl here but it will none the less be put to good use!

I don’t do anything really. I run 93 in everything, and had stuff sit for months, and always started. But this winter I’ll actually be able to use my garage, no heat but least outta the elements.

You can remove the two wires from the Amp meter and bolt them together safely. Here is a stepp by step way to test all components of the starter circuit. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch? Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad. @BOB ELLISON has a couple of drawings of a typical "B" or "C" series wiring diagrams. The first one is as is from the factory and will help you follow the flow path. The second one is with a Volt meter in place of the Amp meter which I think is a better way to go. Let us know how you are doing.

I would agree with full to the top. Also, A small amount of fuel will go bad faster than a large amount. When working at a motorcycle shop, bikes would come in that would not start in the spring. Most times I would drain the fuel from the bowl, and they would start on the gas that was sitting in the tank all winter.

I nabbed my first Wheel Horse “lawn mower” in 2013. I could only wish I was one of the lucky ones that grew up on a tractor… I DO however know that today my niece will be here, and we’ll be riding high on the new 953 for nap time! It sure runs great!

While digging through old photos for a family wedding recently, my mother ran across a photo of me as a kid on my grandparents C-175, which I later inherited after they passed. I figured it could be fun to do a little side by side of the two pictures. If anyone else has some then and now pictures of a Wheel Horse Family Heirloom I'd love to see them! Then (aprox. circa 1998?, not sure but I look to be around 9-10 maybe) Now (Circa 2019) A little comparison for fun.

Whenever you buy spray paint, remember this picture so you will check to see is some idiot did a test spray and now the nozzle is dried shut.

Remove the pulley. With pulley off, remove the four (3) mounting bolts and turn the 'chunk' so that it is on the side toward the chute. Bolt it back on in that position and reinstall the pulley. This is the best way to maintain stability of the spindle under belt tension. It should last for years and years...and years. You could, of course, swap out the spindle from another 42 (or 48") deck, but the pulleys may or may not interchange....depending on vintage.

In the spirit of improving the performance of this machine by painting it, I've started a quick "refresh" with rattle cans. I have a leftover set of decals, so it should look decent when finished. It helps alot when it was pretty much disassembled and pressure washed when I got it... Not bad for one afternoon... Did I mention I have too many projects? Dang I need a warehouse!

He's hosen you Sylvia .... the fruits of his labors was a reward of a prime dinner of marinated venison back straps, loaded potatoes and sautéed mushrooms and onions. He stuck his nose up at the fungus tho claimed he didn't like mushrooms ... I of course called him a sally...even went so far as to text Missus P as to what he likes. She says he likes all food. After all a guy brings you a Senior gotta treat him good right? What say ye @Ed Kennell. Shall we revoke his hunting priveledges? Next time he gets barnyard buzzard!

Saw this thing huffing and puffing and shaking and shimmying at the Zagray Farm show. Yeah, its not a nice color but it took some gumption to marry this hit-and-miss to a tractor!

I only use non-ethanol fuel in my small engines, every drop of it is treated with Sea Foam. When storage season comes around I run the carburetors dry and put them to bed.

No Squonks in them thar woods?

The terminals are the female version of these. Click on the picture for more A Kohler catalog lists the plastic connector I believe but you will need to know the shape/terminal locations. Added the page to the above file in pdf so it is readable. The biggest reason for overheating is the terminals are too loose or they are corroded. Both cause resistance to current flow which = heat. Clean the corrosion off and apply dielectric silicone grease and it will not happen again.

I'm betting on the amp gage being bad and why you ask. Because I had the same problem a few days ago. Second bet is brake or pto switch.

@Jarrapedo done this on my throttle set ups , notice the throttle linkage mount area ? all the extra holes in linkage points ? I use a small spring with a long end to it . shortest end mounts at multiple hole area , longer reach goes to the regulator mount point spot , on the engine cooling cover . have this set up on my 3 kohlers , no throttle creep and constant control. lubricate the cable , simple , cure for that , pete

Howdy. We’ve covered Deestone quite a bit. They are a great tire for general all around use, except most people prefer turfs and chains for snow duty. I’d suggest for the 10.5 wide tire, it’ll be closer to 8.5” wide overall. They run quite small compared to other manufacturers.

I would like to commend the strapper downer, those 2” straps held that load steady without fail.

Thanks much to everyone for weighing in with suggestions. I had a new battery on hand to substitute for the old one. Also a second new battery. ignition was dead with both. The original battery has been fine, too, until when the system went dead totally. Rule out bad battery. Also had an OEM new switch on hand for whenever the need for it would arise. Installed it, but no change. Still dead system. For now am ruling out a bad switch. Next is to test the solenoid and battery cables/connections. If the solenoid tests bad, then I know they don’t give any advance notice by showing any suspect symptoms, as it gave none at all. Will report back on that later. If solenoid tests okay, next is the ammeter. I will bypass now that I know it is certainly okay to do. As it hasn’t been registering much of anything for quite some time, only a little twitch when engine is running, it has been on my radar for awhile, but if it totally craps out, I am now aware whether this can shut the system down or not. If an ammeter failure can do this, then I will not be surprised to find it as being the culprit. The seat safety switch has been bypassed forever, so that’s out of the running. This leaves the clutch pedal switch and the PTO switch. I am aware of how the PTO switch functions, and it was not in the engaged position, so that part is ruled out. Not to say the switch isn’t bad, but it’s not operator oversight by having it in the engaged position when attempting to start. As for bare wires in the harness causing it to short to ground….I have already inspected it twice, including tugging and sliding it in locations where it could ground out. Doing so gave no indication on the ammeter that there may be a bare wire anywhere. If everything else checks out okay, then I will revisit the wiring again as a last resort. So, it certainly could be any one of several possibilities. Maybe more than one. Next is to continue ticking them off until one can’t be. Thanks again to all for the excellent suggestions and reminders.

It’s still gonna look better, ain’t it?

Have to raise the hood even more. The one I'm using is nearly 4" taller than a 12 HP Kohler single. @Handy Don That's an awesome rig!

Get all the info off this tag and we can tell you exactly what it is. Seems awfully high priced in my opinion.

You got room there for a K582.....

Purple HF gun with Rustoleum tonight. Works for me.

Found this on offerup last night. Just happen to have an open engine bay. Looking for another electric pto.

During it’s stay, I set it to mingle with the other classics hoping for baby seniors to pop out.

Here’s an oldie that oughta put a little Zep in your step…