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This little whipper snapper must have had a hard 1/2 day of school, she’s been sleeping on my lap here for 45 minutes

They say steering wheel roll pin and stuck hitch pin removal are rights of passage. Well… my steering wheel popped off during our nap ride today! I managed to use down pressure on one side of the wheel to get us about 1/4 mile across the field to the house.

It would appear that you are your very own 20 ton press.

Well I think this is going to be the next project. The engine in the B-60 smokes pretty bad so I figured I might as well make a C160 out of it with that spare 16 horse I bought then I’ll just rebuild and do a nut and bolt restoration on my original C160..

Oh, the drama!

WHAT…?!?!? You Broke The WHrat WHrecker…?!?!?! Such loving care and high quality jun.. er…uhm… parts… went into the completion of that piece of eye candy… Zip tie oughta do the trick… Black of course…

These were made in 76/77 and are the same frame/axle as the C100/C120/C160 and B80 The only difference is the electrical wiring.

On the kids 522, using the dico 2 ply, tubed, I used 6 gallons of juice and 8 pounds of air. The sidewalls were just to soft on those tires to go any lower. That machine stock is just north of 1000 lbs. Since we are on page 522 I can show a few XI machines. Pics of where they came from. Barn finds you know!

Removed the loader off the JD today for an oil change etc and before I knew it the Horse was trying to hook up with the Deere, don't think the Horse succeeded.

You need to keep those two apart… Ain’t natural…

I’ve got a few other wheels, I figure it’s perfect time to accessorize the WHRat!

You can check here as well. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/tires-wheels/

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I only did just a quick search but it looks like it's over $500 to get a hold of one of those. For that amount of money I would get an old Kohler engine rebuilt and maintain the look and reliability of the tractor without having the modern look of the engine. Nothing against anyone or anything. I just like the older, metal, engines in these tractors. I even change the plastic gas tanks in our B&C series tractors over to the older style metal gas tanks.

Hopefully you have so much fun this weekend that you rsvp to Uncle Jim and Cindaaaaaaaaay!’s on the following weekend! Just don’t drop your plow in Cin - Day’s front yard!

Thanks WHX. Let me clarify that I am going to switch the floats with mounted 4.80s off the original front axle. But I know what you mean by narrow tires on wider wheel. I’m anxious to see how it works.

Gotta have the little knobby for the jack valve in Mike's pic EB. Very handy This is one of those tools that just sits there and looks good most of the time like Randy says but invaluable when you do need it.

Any Kohler that has been removed from a Wheel Horse will fit right in. Eric types faster than me.

Works well with those tires, and if you really want them to bite, use only 5-6 lbs. of air pressure.

this is the Dixie horse prior to me swapping the rear fender and paint prepping the hood

Well, all things have to come to an end, today I’ve started “unrednecking” my Dixie horse 310

I tried the linseed oil treatment and have to say I like it especially since I couldn’t do a nice paint job to save my life. Maybe I just need more patience but they have never been show quality when I did do one. I found this can downstairs and have no clue as to how old it is but I didn’t see an expiration date. This is my first linseed oil attempt.

Just ..ehhh a few years ago when it was running consistently, it was a leader tractor. After the first run I knew I could have put a larger pulley on it and gain some speed and distance but I don’t think it still would have been enough to get it back in the front of the pack. My son placed 7th out of I think was 12 in the class. So maybe with the pulley swap he may have jumped a spot or 2.

I like it!

Nah, I think some twin Briggs have bearings. Just like some of them have oil filters and some didn't. My point was that many engines that are considered great didn't have them. My personal preference is that if I can have ball bearings, I want them.

Make sure you have your federal and state stamps too. Unless things have changed, you’ll need more than just a hunting license. There are worse things to eat than wild geese, but I’ve never liked them. I’ve heard a slow braise or a crock pot can work wonders. We quit plucking the the whole bird sometime in the 1990’s and just kept the breast. my cousins and uncles now turn all their geese and many of their ducks into sausage and jerky. Much of which makes it out into the blinds the next year for the next hunt. It’s a bit like deer sausage…everybody thinks they have a magic recipe but it all tastes about the same. I haven’t hunted in quite a while. Years ago getting a shot at a goose was a cause for excitement. But now there are so many of them it’s commonplace. This area - southern Illinois - used to be a goose hunting Mecca. People came from all over to hunt in the fields around the big refuges down here. Now there are so many golf course geese that industry has died. hunting is more about the time spent with others than it is the harvest. Enjoy each other’s company!! steve

Or carrying some extra weight… good news she woke up!

I vote for a vice grip. Just another lever steer!

Man, like nascar! Might be most handy especially for those big girth fellows.

Aww man !... My 1984 Work Horse with the twin Briggs must not have ball bearings...may as well carry it to the scrap yard ! And I had just started a thread on a refresh of the machine...

Actually the push is the opposite direction. I use a light spray of the copper sealing stuff.

No, that pressure that is placed on the PTO clutch is transmitted to the crankshaft. The crankshaft is then pushing against a thrust bearing, whether it is a plain bearing or a ball bearing designed to take lateral loads. Plain thrust bearings will have a considerable amount of surface area while a ball bearing will have a narrow line of contact at each ball. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

It will be a B-160 unless you add original lights The 15 amp system will come with the 16 HP Kohler.

@ebinmaine I thought of you today… sitting there. It sure would be slick to convert a lift arm to a lever steer…

That is a beautiful conglomeration of parts and pieces. I like mutts.

No such thing sir. I'm looking forward to this!

She slept sound cause it's a wheelhorse

The powder coat place I go to uses prismatic powders Ral 3003 for the red and Porcelain White for the wheels. I have had silver wheels done too but I don't have the code for the silver, I'll get it and post here later. I had an original pan seat that had a seat cover on since new scanned at an auto body paint store to get the color. I also matched powder coat samples to the seat. The paint and powder coat are very close match. Enclosed is a picture of the paint code I had mixed. Enclosed is a picture of the last tractor I restored. The frame, axle, foot rest, wheels (and other items not seen in photo) are powder coat, the hood and other tins are painted with base coat / clear coat. Also is a close up picture of the belt guards. I don't have any close ups of the powder coat. I know everyone has their preferred red and off white paint. I'm just sharing the colors I use. Thanks, Darren

If the engine you have is running okay right now other than having a leaking head gasket I think you'll find that when you take it apart, flatten the head on some sandpaper and put it back together you may very well be in great shape.

The patina on the M12 makes it look like an original engine to your Raider.

Thanks Eric. I change the wheels this evening then see how it looks

My 20 ton hasn't launched anything down yet. Things seem to break loose then I have to keep on pushing as I hold on to the shaft or whatever is being pushed out. Now the 50 ton press I used to use at my old job would launch things down and I kept a 5 gallon pail with an old jacket in it as a pad to catch things. The 50 ton also had a cage around it so catching parts by hand was not an option.

I have a set of those. Metric and standard. They work well enough in some situations. That said I also have several impact drivers of various sizes and those come out first and foremost every single time. I've gotten so I don't even reach for a ratchet or a wrench anymore unless I'm holding the other side of whatever the impact driver is on....

Ditto! Rust is all that is securing those collars. I'd leave the 302 alone. Guaranteed destruction. Only attempt if a replacement is at hand. I appreciate your choice of open end wrenches. Ah, the old Craftsman and to be 16 again. 7/16 got a workout.

Don't know why this posted 3X?

I’ve used red garnet blast media in a blast cabinet on at least 4 sets of Kohler tins with no problem. Any type media should be fine as long as he doesn’t use a large industrial blast setup

Can looks as old as the tractor Slim. Linseed does work, looks great and a fair to middlin metal protector but does have it's drawbacks. It attracts dust and does need to be reapplied occasionally. I would suggest you stay with 23s on the rear but eventually go with tri ribs on the front. Tri ribs are easier to control in the furrow. Those turfs are going to want to "plow" as well if soft soil. Gotta like your front weights tho!

Got tired of waiting for the tinwork to get back from the sandblaster. Rainy day so I took the tin off the first K181 I did and slapped it on this 2nd one. Just new rings and valves and seats done on this one. Did the first break-in run.

Lots of videos on how to build one. Randy