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Kind of a diagonal that qualifies for either Front End Friday or Sideshot Saturday. So I'll post ON Friday IN the Saturday thread.

Thanks to the advice of the friendly folks here, my 656 is done. Currently has a 6.5hp Predator engine with a golf cart starter generator and a small ATV battery. Drive pulley increased to get a maximum speed of about 8mph. Last week I installed a Delco copy mechanical voltage regulator and mounted an inch thick steel plate for the front weight. Here's a pic from this morning. That's a homemade 35 gallon tank traiker. I sprayed two tanks yesterday and three this morning in our 25 acre orchard. ZERO problems. Used less than 2 gallons of gas too!

I'm about to find out. Finally made some space, and hauled the transmission into my "work room". Emphasis more on the "work", since there's hardly any room. Claustrophobes need not apply:

2 nuts don't take long to torque! My nuts get torqued every time @elcamino/wheelhorse mentions my name!

So you ask for advice, and at least 90% who gave you some advice told you the right way to do it and the way you want to do it is wrong and dangerous . Keep in mind that at least three of these guys are licensed electricians with over 100 years of combined experience. All I can tell you if your going to do it your way be careful, be very careful, and buy a nice size A B C fire extinguisher .

That #12 wire became a long fuse!

Same here Jay….licensed electrician since 1990….everything I read made me cringe. Lots of advice given, none taken. And the electrician who said it’ll be fine, should have his license pulled!

Working on an order going to Sweden! All printed and ready for prime and paint.

OK, not dead, just resting, waiting on its servant to produce a working transmission. I've acquired a stand-in, until the old horse is back on its feet. Finally got the lawn mowed.

You people sure can get into a persons head. After rereading this entire thread, it finally hit me like a baseball bat, just what I was attempting to do. RUNNING # 12 WIRE ON A 50 AMP BREAKER IS DEFINITELY WRONG ! Sometimes a person, me anyway, gets a one track mind on something, and just doesn't think about the whole picture. So I set in this morning to rectify the situation. I cut a hole in my wall. It hurt, but I did it. The white box on the left is simply a junction box to get wire inside the wall. The welder outlet is once agaIn alone, on it's own. dedicated, double pole, 50 amp breaker. The AC is on it's own, dedicated, double pole, 20 amp breaker. I had to double up on some other circuits, as our local farm/home store did not have any tandem breakers. They didn't even know what they were. I will have to find some. The # 12 NMB is still in plastic wire mold, and code or not, it is going to stay that way. I can't see what it can possibly hurt. Believe it or not, I have done quite a bit of wiring in my time. I have completely wired 2, new. large hog buildings. Those familiar with hog buildings, know how extensive the wiring can be. 1000's of feet of # 12 THHN were ran. If you are wondering, yes, I did have to have a million dollar insurance umbrella. How did I get it? That's between my insurance man and his conscience, but I can tell you this, he's good ! I have also wired several new homes, I don't know how many garages, and countless other small jobs. As far as the hole in my wall, it may be a blessing in disguise. When I built and wired my garage, I did not include any outside lighting. Maybe I can fix that now. After that I can permanently patch the hole, or maybe I can simply trim around it for future access. ( Maybe a bigger box) I guess I have some of my own rules about wiring. In a kitchen or garage, I won't put more than 4 outlet on a breaker. The living area and bedrooms 8. In older homes I have found MANY walls I could not fish. Around here anyway, years ago, homes were built with firewalls. These were 2X4's, nailed cross ways, between studs, to help stop the spread of fire going up. Sometimes, they even had a small amount of concrete poured on top of the 2X$. Impossible to fish. As far as Jeff, my electrician friend, I trust him completely. I don't believe he would purposely give me bad advise. I just don't think he understood what I was trying to do. Probably because I didn't explain it well. Thank You all for your advice and comments. Sometimes it takes me a while to catch on, but I eventually get there. Usually.

Had parts of this tractor in bare metal for years.

@peter lena Lube was bad. Both axle seals seem shot. I mean, really gone. It also looked like maybe the seal on the input shaft was starting to go as well. Boot on shifter was coming apart - clearly water in the case Looked like maybe some rust on the shifter So, oil was brown, smelled bad, watery, contained metallic particles. I agree, I mostly expect that there won't be anything majorly wrong inside. Gears moved relatively smoothly, with no sound of broken bits or skipping from broken teeth or anything. I may have gotten by by just replacing the shaft seals. However, I've got a replacement tractor now, and the pressure is off. So now I'm mostly hoping to learn something, and do some long neglected maintenance on the whole machine.

Yeah, I'm working my way through the @stevasaurus videos. Those are really helpful in getting a picture of what I'll be dealing with. Really awesome. I'm not sure what I'll get done this weekend. My wife is away, so I'm on kid duty along with some other things, and I'm slow in the best of times. So, my goals are pretty modest: hoping to get the exterior cleaned well videos watched get the case cracked open and some pictures taken Anything else is bonus

Have to add my 2 cents and keep this thread going. My in-laws bought some tires and didn't realize what the noise and vibration was until the tire fell off! My own story is about buying tires at a box store. Seems they drove the lug nuts with the impact gun. When I had the tires rotated at a trusted garage a couple of studs snapped off when he removed the nuts. Seems the installer drove the lug nuts with the impact driver but cross threaded a couple. Lessons learned. 1. Don't buy tires at the box store. 2. Start the lug nuts by hand, even if the impact driver is faster.

Very nice. You are going to love that Predator. Had mine for years and it still starts on the first pull every time. I upsized the pulley too and it has tons of power and torque and easily pushes heavy snow at 8 mph as it sips fuel. It easily pulls my 700lb lawn roller too.

Don't quote me on this, but if you replace all of the bearings and seals, gasket, shift boot you should be in the $200 range doing it yourself....and that is pretty much all the bearings. It is worth it if you got it apart already...fixing the trans gives you another 50 years (thinking you will never leave it out side to get water in it). As you go through this trans and clean things up, you will see how well it is made...seals and bearings...that is nothing after what that trans has been through.

County yard sale weekend.. heres some awesome finds at the first stop.... Korean war vintage handy talkies Old school inverter..doesnt pull ANY juice till needed Transistor test set and little 12v bench supply And not pictured...3 ea 3ft x6in Led programable displays Hams always have the best stuff!

Here is another great source, the Hand Book that does step by step. You want section V...

Hey easy there big guy, I use a 6' wooden Lufkin every day in the trade.

Hmmm. I still use my 6-footer all the time and I have an 8-footer that is handy on some jobs.

I have rebuilt a deck in near similar shape as yours. The pitting on the top will take some work. It's best to take a abrasive disk to the entire deck to get rid of all paint and loose rust. The most challenging part was filling in the pitted area on top with jb weld and sanding in all down smooth so the slider bar will function correctly. Shown are before and after. As for spindles I went away from the DD style you have now and went to the 3/4" keyed style. I believe K and B horse parts is a good source and A-Z tractor were my best sources for replacement spindles and pulleys. Someone correct me but I think @Lane Ranger makes the slider blocks you need.

Hitch pin is out and hubs are off so the toughest work is done. I use a sharp wood chisel to "tap" at the case half gasket all the way around. Usually on the second circle around the transmission the halves will begin to separate easily. Be sure to clean everything more than you think you need to when reassembly time comes. I find the locating pins in the outer case halves to be an issue if not sanded a little. Looking forward to seeing pics of what you have going on in there. I have an 8 speed setting on the shelf waiting for a cleaning and new seals as well. If you need reference shots I'll pop that one open but there's great info in Steve's threads.

This post was made a few years back by @Save Old Iron and is well worth reading.

@stevasaurus has done this before and was thoughtful enough to develop a great thread to help others.

For a replacement spindle...NOT KEYED...the cheapest would be those for a model 05-42MS05. That COMPLETE spindle is #111726 (was 110172). The left and Right pulleys are # 109967 and the CENTER pulley is #110148. Spindle belt #6738 is correct for this 42" deck. A new blade set is # 106636. There is also a KEYED spindle assy # 107405 (108848) but the price for it is nearly $300...and the pulleys are more pricey too. You can go to this website to check out prices, but be prepared... Enter model # 05-42MS05 and clik thru the schematics. https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp?aribrand=TO#

@Gregor I understand it is done in your mind. You have received a lot of sound advice. #12 wire on a 50 Amp breaker is an extreme fire hazard. Please at least install the breaker enclosure with a 20 amp breaker. As an Electrician for 41 years I could not ignore this thread. Jay

‘73 10

A Cub steering column was delivered yesterday and was fitted today. The mini wing may gett replaced with a grille , Our new mailbox had to be large enough for my scrap metal motocycle to sit on it

Uuhmm yeah

I will send you my phone number in PM. You can call me anytime if you have a question, but I want to keep this thread going also...it will help a lot of members.

Not so...Section V is the 8 speed section. It shows the hi/low mechanism and how those different parts go together. I use that section along with the videos and pictures I took, because the pictures in that manual are not very clear. Reading how they are telling you to take it apart and putting it back together is excellent. My pictures and videos are meant to enhance what you are reading and give clearer pictures. If you have the time, page through that manual and then go to the reference section on Red Square / main page / transmissions and open up some of the other transmissions that I have done. Yes, there are a lot of similarities, but each one is different.

Now that is what is called efficiency in space usage. Great photo.

With the exception of having to measure anything over 8 feet , wood rulers are it here. I also occasionally use an 8 footer but they are not easy to fit in pocket so the 6 footers are used. They are more precise and versatile than tape measures. Measurements can be taken with them that are not possible to do correctly with tape measures. For checking squareness on cabinets , cases or to obtain precise ceiling heights I use a 10 foot sliding ruler or it’s smaller brother.

Congrats on doing it right!!

Work Horses were made from 82-84

thanks all for great feedback -- here is photo of Battery Tender I have used for many years for my SeaDoo batteries during winter when they are in storage - but never charged when they were in the Sea doos - so that's why I wanted to check to be safe if ok to charge WH batteries while hooked up in the tractors? Thanks for info

How I kept it sealed.

Likely you'll find a good interior cleaning will do wonders. I'd highly advise close inspection of all gears of course and pay particular attention to the shift forks for both shifters knowing it was binding. At minimum you can order: Case half gasket. Shift boot. All 4 seals. 2 qts cheap 80W90 or so. Be a good idea to order extras of all for the future or other projects or... If you're like me I've been known to bugger up a seal during installation. Trina and I have enough tractors to maintain and current/future projects that I buy in bulk and keep my own "Parts department". Found that after... Thanks!!

Just bring up the best oil to run and see how many pages you get!! Randy

The big ones are not as tender as the little ones. We season it all pretty well so it tastes pretty much like regular pork to me.

Clear enough Greg, and I commented several posts back in a similar vein as Squonky just did. So you went ahead and connected 12ga wire to a 50A breaker? I'll just say once more and then shut up... That's a very wrong thing to do!

With your knowledge of Model A's we appreciate (if the owner allows) if you could do a thread on any work you do on the tractor. Many of us want to learn more about them here's a thread that may have some information to help you

Well today I saw a set of tires and wheels for sale on CL. The rears are like new and I needed something for the crusty 856 I pulled out of the weeds. It sat so long in the dirt that the rims just disintegrated. Oddly enough the tubes are still loaded and holding what ever fluid is in there. I got this one with the 500 Special. Not sure what my plans for it are yet but I can at least roll it around now.

Battery Tender Brand or Shumacher!

Saw this little rig at a convenience store in Buxton today

20210806_095250.mp4 20210806_095250.mp4

Correct. It is a “splint “plane. Similar to a “spill” plane with the exception that it produces thicker straight strips where a spill plane produces a long curly strip. Instead of hand splitting strips which is actually a much better way to do it although time consuming, one makes strips with plane. Next they are smoothed and thinned down a little more by scraping them with a knife. One then steams them or soak them to make them more pliable and stronger. Ideally one starts already with a “ green” board with very straight grain usually ash.

My 754 I had at the show. This one was #41 off the line.