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No Memorial Day Parade this year due to the Covid so, we made our own parade!!! IMG_0481.MOV

So I started putting this 42 inch deck back together and things are going good now that I found the hubs and spindles. just. sitting and watching the paint dry!

Well I managed to get the smoke back in! I had to rig an impromptu hadron collider to release the smoke particles back from the surrounding atmosphere, capture the smoke molecules in a magnetic field , and then use my rail gun to fire the molecules back into the wiring, now bear in mind this all has to be done in a near perfect vaccum!

I just wanted to take a picture(s) of my newest tractor, and my largest, next to my smallest tractor. So below is my 1947 Farmall Cub alongside the 1961 551 Wheel Horse.

Looks like I will be going but won’t get there till sometime Friday morning.

Seat switch hooked back up? Or switch may not be closing. It powers the ignition with pto ON with a Kohler engine. Garry

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

You gentlemen have again steered me right. Thank you all. Went out this morning, took the seat switch apart, cleaned the contacts on both sides, put it back together right, and that did it. Thank you all! I'm now off for more tilling!

You have multiple issues; a fuel pump with unknown pressure, dirty oil, possible worn out engine, probable flyball issue and dirty carburetor. Start with a compression test to see if you have a healthy engine and we can go from there.

I'll be there Thur. and Fri. only. Seems my travel agent scheduled a family vacation at a beach house rental beginning Saturday. I'll have to drive home from the show Friday night, drop the trailer of empty five gallon parts buckets, hook the boat full of crabbing and fishing gear, and head for Delaware Bay on Saturday morning. After this weekends Hershaull park show, I will start to load for the big show and post some pics of what will be coming to the show in the buckets.

I don't believe so. The seat switch is only 'active' when the PTO is engaged as I recall. @ondeadlin

Well I am done with the rust removing, priming and painting for this old 42 Wheel Horse Sickle Bar Mower. Now time to reassemble ! The knife bar with new blades and rivets was finished a couple weeks ago. Also a new oil seal was installed in the wobble box behind the drive pulley. This wobble box is the best I have ever seen on a Wheel Horse sickle but the rest of the sickle was a real rust bucket. All new hardware going on this redo. Most of it stainless steel. Here are some pics of the parts ready for reassembly. I can not believe how many parts are actually in these sickle mowers. It is going to be slow going but some progress today. You have to refer to the manual drawing for almost every bolt on the guard assembly . I will post more photos as I progress on this project. This is fourth one of these I have done but maybe the last.

Dug out some cool stuff today, waxed the C-160. Found a set of Tri-Ribs.....NOS...going on Classified tonight. Soft, pliable and only 2 years old...new with original packaging and Invoice !! Forgot I bought them....I guess when you cant see the forest for the trees.....Found a bunch of stuff actually....gonna post as I go HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY EVERYONE

Yep, it is printed on the clock face. Finally, a pretty easy one.

IT'S ON THE CLOCK!

This thing has goodies all over it

I like your wall clock sir...

I needed another trim router at work so I found this one today at Harbor freight. The guy next to me at his table he uses this same one and I have used it and I am impressed! Nicely priced!

Ha! Made ya open this thread thinking you were going to see this years raffle tractor. Nope...kinda hoping someone had the scoop on what machine is being offered this year. Or is it the one that was slated for 2020? I think it was a Raider 10 or something along those lines.

I decided to test out the transdenser 2 made by Overnight Solutions LLC and distributed through Kirk engines. How does it work? Think of the Transdenser II as a high-performance/high-voltage relay. Breaker-points in a conventional ignition system make and break 3 to 4 amps of current depending on the coil resistance. This leads to their ultimate demise. The Transdenser II takes the heavy lifting from the points and places it on an IGBT semiconductor, thus dropping the breaker-point current to a preset 160mA, or 0.16A. Two thumbs up for me so far.

Just wait till you get the bill from the taxidermist, now THAT will be a big deal!

Rainy day today so no outdoor work. Decided to do some indoor planting 😊

Stage one done, have to wait now until I buy the recommended sealant they used instead of gaskets between case halves. First step is oil pump related but they recommended you leave it be and I did. Next step is governor which is just like the singles. However then we go off the single script, Next is mounting the connecting rods, putting the bearings on the crank and dropping it in the #1 half of the case. Tappets next then camshaft. I have two manuals. One is a download for M-18 with crappy pictures and a original print version of the M18V manual with beautiful pictures....There are some differences almost forgot to put in the oil screen (right side of last pic) as the vertical doesn't have the same design.

Life is short...enjoy the ride while you can.....Tomorrow is never promised.... I will wax the 418-A tomorrow....BOTH of them

Ohh and all while it was drizzling rain ...

I was going to post a bottle of that but didn't want to offend our English friends. Is it certified to work on a negative ground ssystem?

Looks like he used a Tecky!!!!!

Thanks for taking the time to write down this simple procedure that anyone can use to find a start/ignition problem with a couple jumper wires. I can't stress enough the value of using this procedure instead of throwing expensive new parts at the problem. Is this step by step logic in the demystification guide? If not, it should be.

I use a block of wood, a socket that has been ground to a sharp edge for full engagement, a breaker bar and a BFH.

Regardless of the career path your students peruse the lessons learned on this project will serve them well. They have learned the importance of cooperation, pride of workmanship, persistence and teamwork to achieve a goal. This wasn't just a job, it was a destination and you were there to guide them through obstacles that could have derailed this mission. Well done!

2 cylinder 10hp Yanmar diesel from a Semi APU. I will get a video of it running soon. Previous owner started it when I went to get it or I would have passed. Have seen it run. 👍 I have the engine, a crank adapter I made for it and a Honda Goldwing radiator that will go with it. $300 brought to the show.

"Cultivision!"

It, and the Farmall A and the Farmall B, were designed for cultivating, so the offset was so the operator could have a better view of what he was cultivating, doing, etc. Ford also made a cultivating, or offset tractor, the 541, I believe. If I'm not mistaken, a few other brands made offset tractors also, mainly in the '40s and '50s. Ford 541 Workmaster Offset Tractor - 1959 Ad Brochure.pdf

I just take my nuts off with my impact gun. I’ve never had to hold the blades with anything.

Nice Circle Cub you have there. My 1948 Cub in amongst a few Horses.

I don't like running synthetic in older engines due to lack of zinc, only engine here with synthetic oil is my old Subaru.. but it has had the stuff since new. Lord knows what would happen to my tired 85 Ford.. As for WH rear ends. I use synthetic in every hydro I own. My Sundstrands get synthetic Type A ATF, the Eaton's get 15w40 Shell Rotella T6.. Every Eaton I have ever owned has been horrible in the cold, take ages to move or lift. Now they're dead quiet and move easily once started. I've never had an issue that was caused by oil in that instance.

Anyone looking to build a rat rod? I do not have the whole tractor. I have the hood, rear fender pan, front axle with drop spindles, 12” stretched frame made with all new steel (not a stretched wheelhorse frame). It was a project I never finished. Not perfect by no means but would make a cool ride. $150 obo. I’ll get better pics. SOLD 👍

Asked awhile back about what to do with the Magnum 18 in my 418A. Decided to go for the gusto, full overhaul. I have done several singles Kohlers Techy only one Twin a Mil Std (Hercules 2a042) This is different so I thought i would share some pics of the process occasionally. (KT-17 would use a virtually identical process) After you strip external stuff you get Flywheel and stator off. First issue. Kohler used self-tapping screws to hold stator on. It is 3/8' thick and tightly sealed on the back. different juices had no effect.. broke all 4 screws. Then the stator was fused to the crankcase. Couldn't get clear shot at tapping it off til I got the jugs off. They came off easily then you take the pistons off the rods. Rods stay on the crank and you have to keep them from flopping around. Kohler used adhesives instead of gasket to hold end plate on so it was hard to get off (compounded by me over looking one bolt ) Crank case has to be split there are two spots you are supposed to insert a screw driver and twist. NO way the adhesive they used between halves was too strong. Used an old very dull cold chisel. Crank looks good will have it measured may just need a polish. You can see in one picture the needle thrust bearing WH specified to deal with manual PTOs. Only a very few Magnum spec numbers have it.

I believe that the subject is transmission oil. He used the word "straight" when I believe he meant oil that is not synthetic that is 10W-30. That type of oil is available anywhere. I use Castrol 10W-30 high mileage oil that is a synthetic blend in my hydro transmissions with good results. High mileage oils usually have a bit more anti-wear additives, and synthetic oils usually flow better over a wide range of temperatures. The high zinc oils mentioned above should be good for a transmission as well if available in 10W-30. I use Kohler 30W high zinc in my engines and Kohler also has a 10W-30 high zinc that may be great for a transmission.

It won't be the Raider 10 that I offered last year. Seems the WHCC had several raffle tractors in storage waiting for a winner. My Raider 10 has since moved on to a new home. I do have a new set of decals that Terry donated. I plan to return them to Terry at the show.

Oh not to much... just got my Bigfoot hunting permit in the mail today! So that's kinda a big deal!

In cases such as this it's always the last thing you touched.

There's your clue to solving this problem.

I blew up the pic but it got grainy.. so I’ll make a couple guesses. Model of the gun on the right? The normal time you kick off your boots? The fluid volume of one of those buckets? The clock doesn’t look like it’s near 4... more like 1:50?

Local supply is the issue there. No place around here carries anything of the sort, and charge extra to ship it in. Regular old VR1 or Rotella does just fine in an old Kohler anyways.

I'll grab a photo next time I take it out. The 57 Economy and the Case have kinda put the Horses out of a job, except for mowing, at this point. I cut the weld on the downpressure bar and found a shackle that's just the right width and depth. Put a notch in the bar, so all I have to do is reach under, and slide it over the notch. Then just thread the screw through it. Most of my Horses are hydro lift though. So with them, I just use a section of chain. I prefer to use my foot for downpressure, the 50" blade never seems to cut just how I want it so I have to manipulate it.

Sunny skies until 3PM, then the rain started. Rain forecast for Tomorrow and Sunday. I few more pics. Ackerman Talked with the Ventrac dealer Jim Hutchins Seems the Steiner Brothers were involved early and Ventrac is now owned by TORO ? Quite the Versi tal machine. Oh yeah, I did stop by the trout stream again.

Like all my projects this one is way over its time line. Got the stuff back from the machine shop yesterday. Bored .010 over crank .010 under and he replaced valve guides and ground the new valves and seats. Now if i can remember how it all goes back together (and find all the other parts). Picture is of $496 in parts and $250 for machine shop (Total $746 ouch)

This is Diego. He did a lot of work on the tractor. This was his first time ever driving a tractor. He was smiling ear to ear but you can see because of our COVID restrictions. He was amazed that we stripped it down to the frame and then had a beautiful running tractor in a few months. Especially with limited shop time this year.

Almost done.