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I just got my newest edition loaded up at @bizon place, full restoration coming on it, as she is in pretty rough shape. The only Black hood in Belgium I know off was just sitting there in the rain turning into a orange hood. Her new Kohler 16 doesn't run, so could not check the sundstrand hydro with filter out. Pray everything will be okay.

HNV is a big deal for car manufactures and there are engineers totally devoted to it. They have all sorts of equipment to measure it.. I only have my senses but there are differences in WH models. The last couple days were intensive mowing days. Used three different machines and there are, to my senses, some big differences. Worst was the recently overhauled K-341 on a Charger. Following the frequent remarks here I left out the balance gears. There is a very strong vibration and after an hour so of mowing you hands are getting tired. The vibration brings out lots of secondary sheet metal noises. (I never ran this engine before the overhaul so I can't compare before/after). Next test was a Magnum 16 mouthed on a Charger. Vibration was much less, still noticeable but hands didn't feel as tired after mowing for almost 3 hours.... I have never opened this engine and I doubt any previous owner did either so it has its balance gears. Last test was C-141 again I doubt the engine was ever molested so it still has balance gears and the shaker mounts. (Rubber is only in fair not great shape). She was much more pleasant that the other 2...Still am not a big fan of the isolation mounts but they do seem to work. Next big block overhaul the balance gears are going back in with new bearings. Yeah some failed but most last a long time, at 71 I don't need 40 more years out of them. i am convinced some of the reasons they are left out is the hassle timing them...i bought the tool so we shall see on the next project...

1986 312-A, model 21-12KE02, 42" deck 05-42MR04 - New to me a month ago, a gift from my brother in law. Hello All. So glad I found this topic. It's been a while since my last posting under other topics. So, I thought I would post as the topic suggests, as well as catch up. Transmission Engage Lever Handles - Such tiny little things to get my fat fingers around. A 5 inch long piece of closet rod fitted with two angles now makes me the pride of my own little world. I wish the closet rod was oak, I would have stained and finished it with urethane. I guess I will look into that when I am REALLY bored. Burnt Exhaust Valve - Symptoms: Died out when hot. Nearly impossible to start. Burnt on one edge, I hear there is a rotator that you can place in there to guard against the problem of the valve being stationary and wearing unevenly. But hey, after 30 some odd years and this was the first the engine had surgery, I'm ok as is. Seat was OK, lapped in the new valve, assembled. Fired up immediately! My eyes lit up as my jaw dropped. Replaced Blades - Not sure I really needed to do that but I did anyway. Deck Pulleys - What a mess. Removed both outers and descaled them, smoothed them out as much as possible with a V-shaped wooden block and 80 grit. Got one new one and have an eye out for a 2nd one maybe at lower cost. The center pulley is in similar condition; failed to remove it, pretty well siezed. I have a feeling I am going to wreck the spindle in the process so I will live with it for a while. Spindle Belt - Lots of confusion around that one when talking with Toro dealer, they got the first belt wrong. It was 86". The docs pointed to in this forum are to be trusted, for this deck a #106125, 1/2" x 89" was correct. Mounting this thing was a little puzzling since I was not able to locate anything that suggested the best way to go about it. In the end, having a long enough belt was key as well as a 4' length of box tubing to leverage the tensioner into the full open position. Hood Hinges Out of Round - This just bugged me. So, a 3/8" piece of rod and two collars (with set screws) from Menards was the start. I'm not a fan of circlips so I figured I'd go nuts. I welded two washers to the hood mounts to put the holes back in shape. After stripped and degreasing and all that nice Rust Oleum Regal Red is drying right now. Fuel System - Replaced carb, all fuel lines, added a filter, cleaned out the tank and replaced the siezed-open shut off valve. Ignition - Replaced the battery, ignition switch and those other two usual suspects needed for spark and timing. Sum total, this thing runs awfully good and should get a little quieter once I get all the deck problems solved. So happens I've been looking to work for quite some time, but have to spend much more time near home to manage my granddaughter for whom I have guardianship. This tractor has done volumes to help me have that feeling of accomplishment one is used to having when being in the workforce for so long.

Nothing to major just started painting the engine letters, def not as easy as I thought

I got some plane tickets you wanna build one like that here Norm! Betcha the tickets be alot less than the lumber..

That lumber is now.

Agreed. The rubber is very likely hardened and formed to the position it used to be in.

Don't use a grommet over. You can get a new grommet and shut off for 10 to 15 dollars...

Been doing some experiments with the chipper over the last few weeks. Had it mounted "centered" and the belt wasn't quite lined up. Today a made up a 1" spacer and moved the whole assembly over 1/2". Still not sure I'm happy with it. I'll post more later about that. I do know the belt is a bit on the long side for only having the 3 pulleys and no guides. But on the plus side it EATS TREES !! Here's a video... P. S. I'll be taking recommendations for a color of the chipper for when we repaint it. I'm leaning a little towards a bright gloss red. Maybe yellow. Black. Grey.

OK so gave up on lettering till it drys but installed new tow hitch and new seat!

That itty bitty "u.s.a" is particularly nerve wracking. I never knew my hands shook so much! I noticed Terry has decals for it, and I will have to try them next time.

Found a wallet on the road and picked it up. There was only $103.50 cash in it but a ton of credit cards. Dropped it off at the police station and got a call about an hour later from a grateful lady. If there would have been a phone number inside we could have cut out the middleman.

There are water sources if you have a long enough hose or containers to transport. There’s quite a few electric hookup sights as well. $20 a day and you don’t miss any fun activities like big Uncle Jim and his clowns, tip the teeter totter, cruise night, ice cream social, Squonk at the bus stop, good deals goin’ down at Ed’s, how much stuff can Pullstart stuff, and many more!

Slow but steady progress... Quite the improvement if I do say so: OLD Replaced all the rotted window frame with pressure treated, reproduced sash, primed and glass installed. I've forgotten how much fun it is playing with glazing putty! But it's like riding a bicycle or sending Morse Code (CW), the skill returns quickly. AND REPAIRED: There will be 1X4 trim around this when finished, and of course I'll caulk/seal all those openings first. While waiting for the PT wood to dry out enough to put some paint on it, I'm starting on the other window.

Vendor on this site - wheelhorsepartsandmore.com sells them. I just installed one few days ago. Easy.

No sealant required., Install the grommet first then the petcock, liquid soap helps.

I wasn't having any vibration issues. But the thicker wheel is better for my Arthur Itis.

You should see the workshop. It's finished now apart from a roller shutter door.

Just reserved Wed night at Caledonia State Park in Fayetteville PA only a short drive from the BS on Thursday morning with electric. Hosack Run Campground. 1-888-727-2757. @Gregor

If it's the original grommet that make it at least 44 years old, buy a new one with the valve, cheap fix, might make it another 40+years. Since the tank is empty remove it, simple, and rinse it out with a little soap and warm water, lay it upside down in the sun for awhile, with both holes open it won't take long to dry and the sun will help soften up the tank. Take the valve and put a little lubricant on it, preferably petroleum based, I use a little 3in1 oil, I use the s**t on everything #OLDSCHOOL, now push the valve half way into the grommet now put a small amount of the lubricant on the end of the grommet. Start the grommet in to the tank, once it's started push the valve in and it all slides in, easy peesy. Old Wheel horse mechanic show me this, works every time.

Cable and internet restored... Put the baby raccoons by the tree last night...momma made 3 appearances last night before we went to bed. This morning all 3 are gone...hope she got them !

520, 60" mower. Wrong mule drive.

Got a little more done on the 1257, got most of the re painted parts back on and a few decals installed thanks to @Vinylguy and installed my 3D printed headlight cover and hood ornament thanks to @Wheel Horse 3D. So with all the help it's coming along nicly!

So I go to check the oil on my newly restored C 85, you know, to make sure I filled it correctly etc… Can’t be too careful… All good. Right on full… Perfect. Go to start her up and she fired right up, along with spouting a beautiful shower of Oil all over me, the new paint, garage…well… everything… Oh yea, need to put the oil plug back on…

Well in that case. Idk lol. I just no cinnamon color Scheme is nice and the tractor is a work beast. I mean all my attachments are simple black cuz goes with many things. If ur gonna paint it for sumthing other then cinnamon I recommend brite. Cuz after watching ur vid I dnt wanna miss walking into that. White with hunter orange lol Creamsicle from hell

Paint it to match cinnamon love that color Scheme

Yeah learned I'll never be a doctor!... well at least a good one

Welcome to Red Square Click on the fuzzy picture in the link 2 more pages of reading material https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=rj-58&quick=1&type=downloads_file Garry

Kingspan.

Agreed

Lots of help here for your project. Parts for that transmission are available from our friend Lowell @wheelhorseman You will most likely for sure need this kit but maybe some bearings too. 5003 / 5010 Early Transmission Bushing & Seal Kit Wheel Horse - Wheel Horse Parts and More Find out once you get it apart. @stevasaurus has some excellent videos on rebuilding it and will be along to welcome. Dino a faster typer than me ?!?!?!... now that just ain't right!

Hey John, I am a year younger as you. Have had 3 WH trannys apart, all had there seals leaking, which is a pretty easy job to do. RJ58 , Sweet choice (1. use a pick to remove the existing seals, but don't dig to deep, to prevent bearing damage. 2. find a piece of tubing that just fits over the axles, so you can evenly install the seal.) oops this applies for newer trannys. Oh and make yourself a puller for pulling those hubs of. Don't use a hammer or 3 jaw pulley puller. As to parts number, i don't now. But take my advice as a grain of salt, in comparison with stevasaurus , he his the trannys specialist here at redsquare.

Welcome to Red Square There is a little more to these transmissions then just changing out seals. You trans has "cap" seals on the axle housing...take a screwdriver and hammer and gently tap them off evenly around the housing. The axles have an outer axle bushing instead of a bearing. When you look down the axle at it, it should be about 1/16" all the way around. If it worn, it will appear next to nothing and the axle will have some side to side or up and down slop. A new seal will not stop the leak if that is what is going on. A new bushing is in order. Lowell at the address below is a vendor on this site and has all the bearings and seals and gasket you need for that trans. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorse-parts-and-more/ We also have some helpful instructional threads with videos and such to help you save that horse. This one will tell you everything you ever wanted to know. Please show us some pictures of the RJ and ask any questions you want.

Been over at my mate's in Scotland. Been fitting a new door on his MF that ran away. The one below. Those doors are heavy and it put up a real fight to go on. Eventually we won. Found why two of the cab mounted work lights wouldn't. Need replacing so new ones to be got. With the new tombstone and the axle etc back on it looks more like it's old self.

You can absolutely fill the fronts. I run 4 oversized AND fluid filled tires on my Cinnamon Horse C160. Fronts have 5 gallons each, rears 7 gallons each. 24 gallons of Rimguard at 11 lb per gallon. Well over 250 lbs of fluid ALONE.

My father-in-law and I tried isolating the wiring problem it kept blowing fuses so we think there are wires touching somewhere down in the bowels of the engine. So I took the 417 over to "The Small Engine Barn" in Plymouth, where the good tractor doctor over there will most assuredly get it figured out. Upon the return, though, I will investigate adding additional grounding points. Thanks again for the help. I'll try let you know what they discover was the issue. I am always impressed by how helpful and kind you all are! Thank you so much and keep up the good work! Seth

We found two tics on the roadside grass yesterday on our 2 mile jaunt. Our cats find multiple, daily. My oldest is pretty good and inspecting the cats and sending the tics to the swimming hole.

@FBaggshorses, use a DIELECTRIC GREASE ON THAT GROMET , made for rubber to metal use , also try to get a straight installation push into the tank hole , for easiest fit , pete

Check your local hardware or small engine shop. There is a good chance that they have those tank grommets on hand. They were used by many company's.

Is this a rocker plate engine mount? Oops, just saw the axle....520 solid mount Onan.

It crumbles and breaks down by the weight of the tractor.

Finished planting the hostas, columnbines, surprise lillies, and narcissucs that we brought up from our Missouri location. Also removed the infestation of creeping Charlie in about 30 feet of the flower beds - actually, I think I just discouraged it some. Ole Charlie is tough to get rid of..... Also got the Tory Built Pony out of the truck. Gave it a shot of carb cleaner and pulled the rope. It fired, so it has spark. Probably needs the carb cleaned. Patted the Horse on the hood as I put the hand tools away in the shed. Told it that there is a lawn to mow and dirt to move in the next couple of days. @ebinmaine - I found an animation for the Stihl oil less 4 cycle. Turns out that the crank case is connected to the intake manifold ahead of the intake valve so that the 50:1 fuel/oil mix gets drawn in to lube the bottom end during the exhaust stroke so it gets oiled like a 2 stroke.

Oh..Nice!! The 3D version. It's so realistic. If I scratch the picture does it smell like paint,rubber, and gasoline?

Here's a parts diagram for your new tractor

I concur, '35 Dodge. Funny. People often say how close newer cars look brand to brand.. for some reason, just about everything U.S. in 1935 shared almost the same nose. For a second I mistook that for a '35 Ford. It looks just like our fire truck

First serious shakedown session with Charger 16. almost 3 hours of mowing. (Almost two tanks of gas M-16 are thirsty and this one has a really small tank...but it was hot out and gave eh operator a break for the pit stop.) Only real issue the brake lever rattles and the dandelion fuzz was awful

You done started it now...snake oil debate !

That's been tried by quite a few folks on tractors. Turns out to be very short term and very light duty. Even on lawn tractors.