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Turned these wheels black and shiny this morning, should finish the fronts tomorrow.

First serious shakedown session with Charger 16. almost 3 hours of mowing. (Almost two tanks of gas M-16 are thirsty and this one has a really small tank...but it was hot out and gave eh operator a break for the pit stop.) Only real issue the brake lever rattles and the dandelion fuzz was awful

Picked this little monster up yesterday 30 miles from home- FOR FREE! His marketplace ad was 'come get it before it goes to scrap' and had 14 messages in under 30 minutes. I offered him $100 cash to pull the ad immediately, hold it for a few days, and that i'd hate to see it scrapped. Went to pick it up yesterday- 2 brand new front tires, rears hold air, trans shifts, engine spins by hand and has compression, spindles, tie rods, steering etc.. all nice and snug. HE WOULD NOT TAKE MY MONEY, and believe me I tried. Said he parked it in '19 due to battery drain issues and the fact he inherited his grandfathers new mower, who had just passed. Its nice to know there's still good folks out there who's word is their bond. No, I am not going to make a off roader out of it!!!!!!

I just bought 2 John Deeres. Believe it or not I bought them at a yard sale. One is a 110 and one is a 112. With a bunch of attachments. I'm new to the JDs. Ive always liked the round fendered models but never had a chance to buy one. Now luckily enough I have 2. I would like to get the 112 running first and attach the tiller. I may be in need of some help getting this all together.

The Fredericksburg Tx Rusty Iron Tractor Club has several restored Gt's that were donated to it by an elderly member. One of the is this American Austin which they say is a prototype of a tractor that was never commercially produced. It's a very well build machine and has an interesting almost tiny 4 cylinder motor. @Stormin this is the tractor I mentioned to you that someone said they though the motor and transmission possible come from a European car...maybe an Austin Healy. Any chance you can identify this motor and transmission. In these pictures the tractor needs a wash and a wax. Its beautiful shined up. The club is about 80 miles from me and I'm recently a paid member. Before the next show I may try to go over for a day and give it a gentle bath. @WHX24 @Achto The also have these Gibsons and a Harvey which is a cousin to a Gibson. I've read only 60 Harveys were built.

Every other week, I buy refreshments for my Tuesday night golf... the other weeks, my 72 year old Caddy does. He offered me this Craftsman box. “You buy for the next two weeks and it’s yours” he says. When the toy hauler comes, I plan to see if it fits well in the pass through for some general tools. Unfortunately, it has been delayed a couple months and I won’t know if it fits or not for a while.

Got a little more done on the 1257, got most of the re painted parts back on and a few decals installed thanks to @Vinylguy and installed my 3D printed headlight cover and hood ornament thanks to @Wheel Horse 3D. So with all the help it's coming along nicly!

Just finished movin a beautiful Oak Crest rolltop down to the basement office for mrs.We got it at an auction for 50 bucks , cuz it was locked with no key. After i won the bid, I walked over with my pocket knife and gently wiggled the catches on either side while maintaining upward pressure, opened the top and took the key out of an inside drawer. LOL

That will hold a lot of bandages and slings , flip flops and gloves that are worn out . That is a nice size box by the way.

While the 110 and 112 are simpler in comparison to the later John Deeres, your about to learn and appreciate how much simpler a Wheelhorse is to work on.!

Well she “works”… Many thanks to @WHX24 and @peter lena for the help and guidance!!! Took her around the hood tonight and she runs great!!! Looks kinda good in the cleaned up garage… but… doesn’t seem to be any room for the better half’s car… hhhmmm… Fun project!!!

My plan tomorrow: Picking up a new Wheel Horse You know which model?

My new welder did not arrive so I spent the morning bumming around trying not to get bored. Did an hour on the JD ride on cutting paths on the fields opposite, it worked very well and coped with a few gradients I thought would be a problem. Then it hailed so no outdoor fun to be had. Got 8 dogs in through the day so it was a little chaotic for the most part. Just two little ones staying overnight including this little cutey. . Pippin, she is a Maltypoo.

If you stay with the “E” clip, or Circlip method, fit new clips, but check the clips before you fit them because they are most probably made by a “Stamping” type process and will have one side/edge sharp, and the other slightly rounded. Make sure the “Sharp” side goes to the outside, and the “Rounded” side faces the wheel. Also, as previously mentioned, make sure the groove in the axle isn’t worn. If the groove is worn, you could possibly try “Cleaning” the groove with a hacksaw blade, and deepening it slightly. You should then be able to find a smaller clip, (metric?), which fits. Doug.

Hi Tyler, you might try replacing the C-clips, but I wonder if your spindles are worn so the grooves aren’t square? If you can drill and tap the end of the spindles, a 3/8-16 x 3/4” long bolt and a good washer will help remedy this issue.

I finished my 701 about a month ago. I decided to go with 6-12 Firestone Regency's on the rear of my tractor and 4.80-8 Firestone Turf Guides on the front. I choose the Turf Guides for the front because they were close to the original tread pattern. Here is a pic of my recently restored 701. A link to M.E. Millers selection of garden tractor tires. https://www.millertire.com/categories/lawn-garden-tires/ Many of us run DeeStone tri ribs on the front. Yes they are imported but lets face it, a US name on the side does not mean that they were made here. The DeeStones look good and are reasonably priced. Available at many different vendor's Amazon, Ebay, etc. A pic of my 1076 with DeeStones on the front. Carlisle 6-12 ags are excellent as well. The bar treads are at a different angle than the FireStones. A pic of my McLean with Carlisle 6-12's on the rear.

I got a carburetor from @mcfarmall Kyle so I could rebuild it for him. Turns out the bottom throttle shaft bore is horribly worn. I made a video with the help of my Videographer BBT to show what to look for, for future reference. This also shows the location of the replacement washers/bushings after installation. (Someone else had done this one in the past.)

Kept my distance relying on my camera zoom feature.

Unfortunately no video verification, so maybe it didn’t happen…

That looks mighty nice

It's the model right after that and has a pushrod ohv engine with like 1200cc. They used oil in the carbs to dampen the variable venturi. We live 30 minutes from a Austin Healey parts dealer, he has every piece of every model on stock. It's insane.

I have not got a video of it yet but will soon I hope. As far as feeling it the engine does not strain or die at all.

Well first pull was this past Sunday. Did a full pull. Engine turns 4150 rpms and made 6lbs of boost under load. Time to turn it up now.

KT 17s on C175s used arms as did magnum 18 on 418A

I finished the gates and will deliver them tonight. I have some left over cuts from the galvanized wire and that stuff is pretty rigid. Me thinks some 1/4” brake line tubing welded to a tab on the dash tower could make an interesting push/pull throttle and choke for the WHRat.

I believe Rylee have to carry her Dad home than..

I have a soft spot for the older JD garden tractors, having grown up with a "square fender" 112 in the family. Bought it in 1970, and it was the only tractor they ever on that property until sometime in the early 2000's. (Don't know what happened to it due to an unfortunate divorce situation.) The round fender tractors are interesting, being belt-driven off the side but with a very low "tunnel" in the middle, more like what you find in a shaft-drive tractor or a vertical-engine lawn tractor. The square fender style was a total design revision, and it has a more typical tall tunnel for the drive belts and lift brackets. Engine and PTO shrouding were also simplified (but still very enclosed in Deere tradition) in the switch between generations. Implement linkages bracketry and some parts of the lift linkages changed between generations too, becoming somewhat simpler/more modular in the square fender era. Either way, implements basically hang off the ends of the tractor and the (very robust) center lift assembly. JD doesn't use anything like the mid-hitch setup that WH has in the Attach-A-Matic system. That's largely because the area midway along the length of the tractor is filled up with the variator drive components as well as the implement lift parts. Everything goes in between the frame rails on a JD. The mower decks are fairly easy to take on and off -- just fiddle with the lifting arms and the front brackets; JD uses (proprietary) quarter-turn knobs with spring catches, and sometimes J-hooks with springs on the front of the mowers. The round fenders at least don't have to thread the mower belt up through the frame and then onto the PTO, which is easier than the square fender ones where it's kept inside the frame rails. JD mower decks hang all their weight from the deck lift. The depth is adjusted by a stop on the tractor, and the rear wheels just skim the ground but don't support the weight -- very different from WH where the rear wheels are truly the height setting. It does allow you to set the cut height to anything you want, which JD promoted heavily. The real "fun" (not...) with these JD's is changing the drive belts. There are two -- The "primary" one from the engine to the variator, and then the "secondary" from the variator to the transmission input. They're not particularly complicated, but the clearances aren't terrific which makes for plenty of knuckle-skinning opportunities. Aging tractors also may need work on the variator assembly due to aging bearings -- and that job has developed a reputation for not being particularly fun. The assembly is tucked up in the frame, and there are the springs and such to deal with. On the other hand, the variator system is really nice to use, since you can set your gear and still adjust travel speed over a wide range in each gear. JD certainly engineered these machines well. But even then, they had an eye toward convenience as well as operator safety that tipped the balance away from ease of serviceability. Which of course benefitted the shops. They tended to use a rotating lift that clamped the frame of the tractor and allowed it to be turned on its side or upside-down at standing height, which makes a lot of things easier to accomplish when you have to get into the drive belts or lift assembly. And of course a non-trivial share of proprietary JD-specific parts in various places. Honestly, though, JD was never alone in that respect. We're just all spoiled with the standardization and off-the-shelf common machine parts approach used by Wheel Horse.

The last two days, we’ve jogged a total of 3 miles. Today, we did a cool down and walked 2. Saturday is the big day, we’ll jog 3.7. I can feel the pain sinking in already!

@Handy Don, hello don , my standard go to for cable rejuvenation , is to never let it go dry in the first place. once you regularly aerosol spray any rusted area , you are feeding the metal what it needs. typically , remove cable hang vertically , start top lube flow , watch for bottom drip to start , attempt movement , once it starts moving , note , rust drip, repeat this cycle. I also add additional cable clamps , so the cable does not flop around in place , available at local h/w store , small pull out drawer section. that super lube is made for this , another thing I do is to add small extension springs , at the end mount point , so there is a constant balance pull point on the cable , my cables are very smooth and work without effort, take the time to look at how its saposed to work , then enhance it to make it better . when I came in at 2 am for a maintenance failure , you can bet that I also made modifications so that problem was gone , good luck , pete

I was a little nervous clicking on this post... wasn't sure where the comments were gonna go , so far so good. I personally like the round fender JDs and was secretly thinking of acquiring one. Guess I got to go hit some lawn sales! Nice score!

What ever you do, DO NOT hit the end of the shaft with a punch and a hammer. You will shatter the pump gears. You can use a hammer to assist getting the pulley off if the pump is disassembled and the plate in the picture above has been removed. If you are only setting it up for long term storage, I would loosen the bolt on the reservoir and turn it so that the fill hole is pointed down. Drain it out, turn it back to the top and put some oil in it.

In your ear! That one is a go to now. Tell you what tho you being a '65 guy you got first dibs and if you play real nice you might get some seat time on it. Thinking about it being my ride around at the BS.

Pulley has to come off. Pump pulls out thru the other side. If you could find a used pulley, you could cut the old one off. Or buy a Mapp gas torch at a hardware and try heating it or melting candle wax on the shaft.

Me too! He said he battled electrical/safety switch issues from day one and that it developed an electrical draw, so when he got his grandfathers machine he just parked it. So far his story adds up- safety switches bypassed/jumpered, key switch has been replaced with a push button and ignition hooked to the headlight switch haha.

Just ordered some yesterday!

The round fender John Deeres were the first tractors Deere produced in the L&G market. The 110 came out first in 1963. The 112 joined it in 1966. In 1968, Deere redesigned the 110 and 112 and were known as the square fender models. To learn more and get more expert advice, you can register here: https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/

I’ll take the fall before letting these angels drop

I guess the bee is like a chicken that crosses the road. (To get to the other side.)

A 2nd 701! You wearing a and carrying a six shooter. OK, I'll jus be happy taking the leftover parts off your hands!

Dont spook it. It may run away.

I just snuck up on my horse in the woods. Still doing earth moving things!

Oh..Nice!! The 3D version. It's so realistic. If I scratch the picture does it smell like paint,rubber, and gasoline?

Here's a parts diagram for your new tractor

It‘s a little too heavy for a Carry on in a Aircraft i believe.😎

Spirits for the wheel... Spirits for me... wheel... me... wheel.... me.... me... me...

If it was liberally applied by the wheel mounter person, it could've run down to the center easily. Good luck with the spirits. BTW a recreational beverage for you might make the work more palatable

I believe that the KT twins had a pulse pump. I also believe that the newer engines are all pulse pumps.

YOU CAN DO IT !!!!!!!!

I went to my storage locker, and brought home a few Lawn Boys to sell off. If I can get rid of a few, it would make more room for . Let's just keep that between us. Just because my wife thinks she knows everything, doesn't mean she has too. I also brought home a few of the more interesting ones, that I will never sell. The first one is a 1985 (?) 8243AE. Self propelled, electric start. Notice, this mower has no pull rope option. If the battery went dead, or bad, you were simply out of luck. This didn't seem to sit well with John Q Public, hence not many survived. But on a bright note, It's 12 volt. You could jump start it with your truck. This is a 1982 5006, Bricktop. It is widely believed, that Lawn Boy made this mower, from a variety of inventoried parts, they simply wanted to get rid of. Not many were made. The Pride Of The Fleet. This Is a 1964 model 6250 Commercial. It was billed as a commercial use mower, and was sold as such. Consequently it was pretty much beat to death, and again, not many survived. I was VERY lucky to find this mower. A lot of Lawn Boy collectors have been searching for a long time. It was a barn find in Iowa.