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I just wanted to say hi and thank the forum for all the great information on the wheel horses. I picked up a 314h with side discharge deck and single stage snow blower.

It ran AND moved. Fixed a couple leaks from not tightening up a couple things but after that it did good.

Almost there on this side.

Today, I pick up a 36" deck for my hopefully soon new commando 7. On the way home I passed by the Oevel WH Factory, here in Belgium, which is now the headquarters of Toro Europe.

Made a bucket garden.

to the Scott. The 314H looks great and is a great tractor. The 321M Kohler engine and the Eaton 1100 transmission with the hydraulic lift wil make a good mower and snow machine. You will appreciate the hydraulic lift when using the snow blower. One note, the blower side extensions are on backwards. They should be flipped over or changed from side to side so the leading edge is parralel to the side of the blower housing. Then they will cut into the snow and not push the blower sideways.

Well, my buddy sends me a picture last night and is now the proud owner of a D-180 with an ARK550 and Brantley Back Hoe. Seems we have been discussing ‘hoes quite a bit lately... @Wheel Horse 3D @ebinmaine @wallfish @roadapples I am looking, but haven’t found any detailed threads about swapping a 22 hp predator into a D series. This has one broken rod and who knows what other damage internally, so for speed of putting this to use, I think my buddy is going the Predator route. Here are the pictures and details he sent me...

Tha shud talk proper English lic wot I do tha nose. Then thad 'ave nah trouble wi speellin'.

Apparently spell check / auto correct isn’t so keen on deep-sixed!

I have sandblasted and painted or powder coated every part for the tractor with the exception of the body sheet metal. Here's a tip - take lots and lots of pictures before and during dissasembly - I was a little lax in doing that. It would have saved me time in reassembly and would not have to refer to the parts diagrams as often. Here's where I'm at so far.

@pullstart Need more toys Kev..

Searching today for a thing and look what i’ve found... The gift i got on my last USA Workstay from Bob, my US Workmate since. I knew, i kept it on a save place, but didn‘t remember where This safe place was.. 😂 oh yeah, the age... and my Brain..... two things they go their own Way.. 😎 But finally i found it. today i’m doing a littl welding. Buzzing some Steel together. Drilled a hole and reuse a 3 Point rearmount as an Mountpoint. The Main Beam finally exists. the 2 Anglemounts will be used as Tiltpoint for side swing. i plan to increase the holes and weld two Rect. pipes on the leverpoint ( 3 Point) where the Beamcylinder later will be mounted. to check what cylinderlenght i can use, i do few tests.... Beam completely in Beam about half out Beam about 2/3 out And Beam completely out. the big Steel U in the Front shall be later the mountpoint that should be the side tilt connector opposite to the both Steelmounts laying under the 3 point . therefore i plan to drill all the holes up to 19mm. i thinkering about a 50A plasma cutter to be able to cut the both Armlevers out. The empty Weight for the complete Backhoe is precalculated at about 130Kilos. 150 kilos gross weight. Hydraulic system gets a 40L pump and a 20 liter Oiltank. Mainbeam is made of rect. Steelpipe 70x50 5mm thick the Arm is made of a rect. Steelpipe 50x40 6mm thick the Swing U is 140x85 9 mm thick. that should last i think... enstiffners are planed but not all are welded on for now. .... to be continued

I was taught a good many years ago to make sure that the MAINTENANCE is done before you try doing DIAGNOSTICS. So to that end, A#1 question. Do you use ETHANOL gasoline? Other than rebuilding the carb, what has been done recently? Are the fuel lines new? If so, rubber or something else? So to go back to your original question. Yes and no. My experience has shown me over the years that carburetors can be a lot like people in that every single one of them has a different "personality."

Have someone come in with a mud pump to fill the cavity. There is also a product called Polylevel that can be used to jack up concrete or fill holes under concrete.

When I deep-six something, it is usually to chill it...as in wine or beer.

It seems that what passes for American English is being deep-sixed more and more every day by our incredibly intelligent autocorrect system.

carburetor adjustment finished

Another member that may have some info....

We used DeWalt's on the assembly line where I work. Average life span of them in a persons hand who did not give two squirts was about 4 months. We have now switched to all Makita cordless tools. Same people using the tools but now the average life span is 2+ years. The Makita's that reside in my tool box at work are over 6yrs old and get used every day. All the Makita tools that I use at work are brush-less. Nothing wrong with Milwaukee cordless tools either. Many use them in an industrial setting with very good luck.

The serial number tag, and the new key ring, are on the 876, so it must be done.Like all my builds, it's not perfect, but maybe I preserved for a few more years, so the next guy can make it perfect. I had the seat re-made, duplicating the original, as much as possible. With one added bit of flair. I got the generator back today, and it's working. Drove it outside to take pics, and once again forgot about the trans valve. I sure like the looks of those Genny motors.

Gee, maybe we’ll have to move this thread to the recipes section

No Compassion

Ran Dug over to mom and dads to buzz off their yard real quick(LOVE the hydro on this hill and tight spaces!) Mrs laughed as she sprays tons of grass all over Dug with her push mower, getting sticky starchy grass all over and in places grass would NORMALLY never get! Then home to inventory printing progress over the last week or so, and start a run of 3D/classic and 3d/hubcap heads.

The nine pin connector is a problem that can be remedied by anyone with some basic tools and a bit of common since. The connector itself is not needed and was installed at the factory to reduce the time needed to assemble the tractor. If you carefully remove one wire at a time and use a good quality (read this as NAPA not Harbor Freight) assortment of wire terminals and crimper. Most of the wires will be 16 gauge and 12 gauge and you can get it at NAPA or other auto parts stores. Look under the seat to find your model number and we can fix you up with a proper wiring diagram.

I really did not think this was real other than just slang. I knew about fathoms but never make the connection of the two. What you learn as time go on! deep-six verb | DEEP-SIKS Definition 1 : to get rid of : discard, eliminate 2 slang : to throw overboard Before the introduction of shipboard sonar, water depth was measured by hand with a sounding line. This was generally a rope weighted at one end, with bits of leather called marks tied on at intervals to measure the fathoms. Between the marks, fathoms were estimated by deeps. The leadsman (pronounced LEDZ-mun) lowered the line into the water and called out the depth as the rope passed through his hands: "By the mark twain!" at two fathoms; "By the deep six!" at six fathoms. Perhaps due to an association with "six feet under" (dead and buried), to give something the deep six (or to deep-six it) was to throw it overboard, or, by extension, to discard it. In the mid-20th century, deep-six made landfall; since then it has been used as much by landlubbers as by old salts.

Well the paint is dry on the wheels and seat so I took it for a spin. Hydros sure are nice. Got me thinking if I like them better then shifting gears.

for target practice

Gregor your a asset to the Wheel Horse collectors. I took Gregor up on some free deck items. He removed them , boxed them, and held them until we made it the 7 1/2 hour trip to him to get. Gregor even I see tried to find out if someone was hauling anything up our way that could take it to us. We tried to offer him money for the parts and he refused. He was just happy to see someone getting use out of it. We even got a tour of part of his Awesome Collection. So thanks again Gregor for such a great experience. Tim & Meranda

I have Kohler engines, and I have never had to re-adjust a carburetor because of a weather change. The choke takes care of that when starting the engine. The real answer is...try minor adjustments to see if the engine runs better. The air / fuel mixture screw.

Most common technique is to drill one or more holes in the slab, thread nozzles into them and then pump in concrete, cement, or grout (depending on the soil and under-slab water situation). The applied pressure can be pretty significant and by using several injection points and managing the pressures, this is often used here in the Northeast to re-level patios or other outdoor and indoor slabs that have tilted due to subsidence or erosion. In your case, they may want to explore with a long-arm inspection camera to see the extent of the den and if they can get adequate reach, just do it from outside without extra pressure using a mud pump and hose. The thickness of your slab matters, too.

I figure if the hole is torn up, that’ll be a sign of more. Then I’ll stick a pipe off something potent in there and let them sniff some 4 stroke.

First things first, there may be more. Females live in the den with young, males don't. You may have a more than one. Time for the gas off a running vehicle. Nighty night!!

Hey “Man”, I never could “Fathom”out the reasons that “Lead” those “6” poor “Sikhs” called “Mark” to be tied to a “line”, and dropped overboard into the “Deep”. I can only imagine the noise “Sounding” terrible! Doug.

The company I worked for for 40years has it’s H.Q. in St Blasien, Germany. We started having lessons in the German language shortly after I joined. Had some great evenings there at the Hotel Albltalblick. 🍺🍺🍺🍺. The thing was, nearly everyone we spoke to there, spoke English! 🤔 including the people at the factory. Infact , somes folks there, spoke it “Bettera than wot we does over ere”. 🤪 Doug.

Adjust the length so the front of the deck is slightly lower than the rear. With a blade pointed front to rear the front of the blade should be about 1/8" lower than the rear.

Yup, full lifetime. I've also got a Ridgid tile saw with the same warranty. You just have to register the serial numbers at the time of purchase. Sooner or later something is bound to fail and I'll have to see how they respond. The batteries do have indicator lights. I just never think to check them.

Got the loader mounted and operational. My winter axle swap turned into more of a restoration but it is finally done and ready to start working on my yard. Painting the loader and all parts wasn’t that enjoyable but it came out decent enough.

nahead72, no problem that's why there is aunt google translate today

We also use Makita but brushed, what an abuse they go thru, as we mostly have to drill 13mm drill in to hard steel. average lifespan 3 years. I do have a brushless makita, that thing is insane, almost broke my wrist. I put a socket adaptor on it, for removing a bolt. the drill flew out of my hands 12 feet high. Felt on concrete and s still working 2 years later. It is a shame tey moved there production from japan to china a year or two ago. And here, Makita has the cheapest batteries.

Im a stubborn old fool with most power tools but have to say.. my Milwaukee M18 brushless stuff has never failed to impress. Heck I've used my M18 in low gear to crank my Farmall Cub over when the battery went flat.. no trouble just hold on tight. It's spent many hours turning small mowers over nonstop too. The impact gun is respectable but does get unnervingly hot IMO..

I have used brush motored makita drills and impacts and I have used brushless I worked in a semi trailer shop 8 on 6 off using mostly all power tools the brush tools in my opinion are not as good for heavy hard use I have a 1/2 makita brush and a brushless the power difference is big I used the brush drill for about a year and a half and it burnt up, the brushless is still kicking after about 6 years...... if I had to redo this all over again Milwaukee would be the way to go in my opinion that’s all i have at work the warranty backs it up every time no exceptions

Since that tractor has the tank under the seat you might switch to an electric fuel pump. Many of us have had good luck with the Facet electric pump.

I'll try a temp fuel tank and also a new fuel pump. I checked for fuel flow from the tank. I pulled the line off and then opened the shut off valve and got good flow from the tank.

Installed a stack on my ole 71 800 grass cutter.I ordered it from Mr Kemp and couldn’t be happier.Sounds great too !

It's not quite done, but it's close. I still have a few decals to put on, and I am waiting on my new saddle.Of all the tractors I have done, (only 4) I would have to say this one was the most challenging. Trying to fabricate missing parts by guess work, takes me a long time. Then there was the leaky trans, which I caused, and the broken frame, so I had to tear it down completely. Then the generator problem, which is still a problem, but oh well. Like all my tractor rebuilds, it's not perfect by a long shot, but I think it's better than it was.

Happy B-Day bro. Put the cake down and ship my parts !

Found this tidbit online: "Doylestown Machine Company of Danboro, PA in the early 1950's. "

Figure out the biggest meanest compressor you can afford then double it!

There is more to mufflers and exhaust systems then we would think.