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Got the loader mounted and operational. My winter axle swap turned into more of a restoration but it is finally done and ready to start working on my yard. Painting the loader and all parts wasn’t that enjoyable but it came out decent enough.

Just getting ole Hiram put back to where we were at before a transmission malfunction.

I could make up a new spacer but I think this exhaust sealing muck may have solved it for now. Been running the engine occasionally today. No leaks!! In other news: I've been working on getting the Mckissick chipper set-up on the C160. Got the PTO all on and seems adjusted ok. Had to sand the crankshaft smooth after having nothing on it for 2 years. Of the 3 or 4 PTO bells I have I chose the one with the smoothest and thickest clutch face. Trina painted it on the outside along with all the linkage. I sanded the friction surface by laying 120 grit on Advantech flooring (my workbench). Push push twist. Repeat. Push push twist. Repeat. Push push twist. Repeat. Just like sanding/planing a cylinder head. Installed a mid tach o matic hitch and bolted the hoop brackets on. Got the Wheelhorse/Mckissick bracket all bolted up. Hung the chipper out front there. I have 4 belts. Longest was still way too short. No worries. I'll get more in a day or 3 and try again. In other other news: I took the Charger hydro for it's maiden work voyage today. I CAN see why you folks are enamored with them as a plow rig. As a forest/woods runner in mountainous terrain.... No. Nope. Not even. I'll get it tweaked and running better. Keep it til wintah. I really am VERY much looking forward to using it for snow removal with the hydraulic lift.

Well I mowed the spots that my Scag won't fit. Then I did a little bit of tinkering. Full on rattle can job on the way ...

Here's some better pictures

The frame is looking good, but that's one SWEET pedal tractor. I'd pedal my butt all over the yard on that bad boy 🤪. Might not be able to stand up after but so worth the ride.

I repurposed an RJ / Suburban raised letter nose piece into an air scoop. It was once a basket case all dented up before I restored it. Completed, I had no plans for it and I didnt want to make it into a clock. It reminds me of a Ford "Shaker" scoop that was attached to the engine, protruded thru the hood and moved with the engine. Now I have to find a way to attach it to the predator engine and detail it. I'm also making a wheelie bar. Then I can focus on the gas pedal

Figured I better start a thread on this one. I'm building two backup mowers. My zero turn isn't a new one, and I have too much grass to let it go for more than a week if something breaks on it. So this tractor will carry the 48, and I've got a 5XX-H that is halfway through a heart transplant that will carry the 60. In a real pinch, I can put the 60 on my 520-H, but I'm a little leary of pushing the Onan that hard. Anyway, here is the weekend's progress:

Gotta love the new led headlights. So much brighter!

Trouble shoot and repaired a small issue with Dug's clutch switch, did a little more painting on Dug's new Jewelry, installed some jewelry that was already finished!

Here are a few photos of the Wombwell foundry where both my grandad and dad worked.

Replaced all the hydraulic lines.. What a pain! Installed the restored mower deck, removed chains and weights...now i need to clean this thing up and give it a paint job

In stock : quality, American made shift knobs with the correct 3/8" -16 brass thread inserts for our Wheel Horses. # 102871 for the A, B, and C-series with the recess for the shift pattern decal is $12.00 . # 108758 for the 80's and 90's era tractors is $8.00, and # 1001 for the high - low range on the older models is $7.00 . Shipping is additional.

I only spent $87 and got all this @SylvanLakeWH am I a member of the black hood club?

Had to cut out a section for the brake lock lever. Finally got it to fit in but I’ll have to make something on the linkage for it to grab. It’s right there though when pulled around. Also had to make a new side cover as the other one was cut for the 1054 brake pedal. This has a gt14 pedal but it worked out that it covers the linkage and the pedal assy. Have to make a new right side also since the engine sits in a different spot than the original. Next week 👍

Today’s progress… Ordered decal set from @Vinylguyfor the C-85 and my new to me Agrifab but Wheel Horse Wannabee trailer!!! Hood sanded. Ready for primer. Decals came off like a breeze using hair dryer and s l o w l y peeling them off just behind the hot air… Seat down to metal… evaluating possible use as old style metal seat, with some anti-hemorrhoid bolt rearrangement… Possible metal fender pan coming my way from @cafoose via @pullstart Trucking from the Big Show…

I have the 656, and the 876, both sitting here in the garage. Got the wheels and tires back on the 656. Bright and shinny. Both of these tractors are 3o minutes work away from being complete, if I just had the parts. Waiting for parts . I also brought the C125 up from storage. It's the next project. I have not done anything to it yet. I plan t o pull the motor tomorrow, put it up on my test stand, to see what I can find out. I have to learn how to do a leak down test. I have a metal fender pan on the way from Lincoln. Yaaaah....another free pen that actually works. I see already there are a few more things I am going to have to order. I have looked at what manuals I was able to find on line, and I can't find anything about a free-wheeling valve on a C-125 A. Is there one?

Installed the $2.00 auction bimini top. Had to make two 3,4" SST support rods that fit in existing rod holders.

They are Patternmakers modeling tools. Used to smooth and or shape sand used in castings, particularly inside corners.

Took the winter dress off the C175 yesterday. man these wheels need a good cleaning and paint job. any tips on cleaning up the rims? They're filthy!

The only place I could find any info on them was from a thread on here from 6 years ago. Other than that, the entire internet is completely void of info. I figured they were pretty scarce. This is a picture from that thread.

Very true, on my D's the hand control is on the right side in front of the steering wheel, and I find myself with the right hand constantly on the lever - course I've done it so many years I really dont even think about it. I still much prefer a Hyd drive over gears.... As a comparison, I stumbled on a Massey Ferguson garden tractor (1650) and they have a foot control for their 2 speed hyd, and I have to say that foot control is a beautiful thing! Here again, I find my foot always on the pedal and am constantly fine tuning speed, and really not even aware of it!

You really raised two issues...One has been addressed getting the motion control to stay where you leave it. Second issue is harder. Even if the motion control doesn't move a hydro will speed up some going down hill and slow going up. If the hydro is in excellent shape the speed change will be minor. However as they age and wear the over/under run will become much more noticeable. That is why buying a used hydro is always something of a crapshoot. It is why for hilly area mowing I prefer and use the set and forget of a C-175-8. The hydro is great for congested areas with lots of maneuvering...

That is a great find. You got a few very rare ones there. It is virtually impossible to find an entire set like that. Here they are mostly steel never really found out of brass or bronze. I have been a keen student of the Patternmaking trade most of my life. When first arrived here I lived close to a couple of foundries and used to watch them from the door all the time . They had a small shop where an elderly man worked. I used to be peeping through the window all the time. I was very familiar with wood working but this was different and fascinated me. He saw my interest and used to invite me in to the shop. Spent countless hours there watching and talking to him. Another gone trade.

The exhaust stack base of the Cinnamon Horse C160 had been leaking since not long after I installed it. This morning I removed the stack and spacer. Cleaned them. Sanded them. Applied some Walker exhaust sealer. All back together so we'll see how it goes.

@SylvanLakeWH If @pullstart or anyone else near you is going maybe they can bring it back for you I got it with other parts and really wasn't interested in it so it's yours if you can figure out how to get it there

I'm getting so close now I can taste it. Oh wait that may be carbon monoxide and paint overspray.

You forgot I was there! That's why I have to act like an Idot so people remember I was there! (yes I spelled it Idot on purpose!)

Pullstart is...

Sounds like you need 2 more "next" tractors

Picked up a beautiful old snow thrower that came on a Raider 12 from another local collector today. As this is the 3rd one I've bought in the last year, I'm hoping I actually got one that'll fit one of the tractors in my fleet 😆 Also got some headlight parts in from @ebinmaine , but haven't got them into action yet.

Got the front set of tires in for my B-80 "FlowahPowah" in today. 1st set of ribbed tires can't wait to try them out.

It was a package deal, tractor, 60” deck and 2 stage blower. Now to decide if I need to keep it around or not.

WOW calling @WHX24 "The Father" I don't know how to process/characterize that. It's almost in the camp of painting a WH JD green.

Check your serial on the plate underneath the throttle and choke levers. If its an "S" ( = Sunstrand) the free wheel valve is in towards where the arrow is pointing. There used to be a decal on the fender showing how to do this.

I've been looking for one of these for a while. Saw one at a sale and I got it for $20. Took it home and plugged it in and it actually worked! I'm going to take some old valves I have laying around and practice with it before I try to do anything that I want to actually be nice.

One more:

I saw bicolor corn sell for $12/dozen at the local Amish produce auction last spring. I expect it to be higher this year. Sure glad I have an unlimited supply in my back yard. I just pick corn, cantalopes, cabbage, pumpkins, and brocilli as needed. Then pay off the farmer by mowing edges and controlling the varmits around the farm.

Do you think @pullstart will have room for one more thing...

Hi Cafoose, That fiberglass black hood is from an E-141 electric WH. I cut the side panels back, and was going to put it on my C-120 or my 1257 to make it look like the C-161 twin with the Briggs engine. It fits on the older style dash panels, not the C-1X5 series. Unfortunately, that was about number 20 on my list of projects, and one that I was never likely to get to before I have to go to a senior center. I found it on CL for $25, but I'm sure you were able to grab it for much less. I hope you can put it to good use. I look forward to talking to you at the Big Show. Jim

I will, I'm sure @SylvanLakeWH would appreciate it

good eye! I’ll remember to look for one for a FEL attachment!

Feel free to drop it off at the @pullstart Stables booth

Wrong season for this .. but finally got around to adding a UHMW Strip to the 56" Plow along with a new set of Armor Shoes. Paid as much for the built to order Armor Shoes as I did for the plow (I did get it for a really good price though!) but was not impressed with anything else I could find for such a heavy plow. I went with a 4" puck mounted to a standard 3/4" shaft. Would highly recommend if anyone is looking for replacements based on the exceptional build quality.

You need a 5/8" open end for the threaded shaft and a thin 3/4" wrench to work the nut. I use my home made blade nut wench

Loosen nut #102, make adj with #100, think its 8 ft lb, to move handle, no lube on assembly, works on friction.

My c175 is a briggs 18hp Opposed twin swap

Good question but you may be right. It may be unanswerable. I have never contemplated on making one to sell. I don't think I could ever part with one. I do buy ancient ones when the rare opportunity presents itself. Oldest ones that show up are usually from the early 1900s some from the late 1800s. The last ones made for actual use are usually from the 1960s. The best ones without too much wear or damage can go for around one thousand .There are several different styles of them from different parts of the country, this particular style being unique to my birth place. They are the only ones carved in high relief front and back, and having this particular shape or style. Most of the others have only simple carvings. They were a status symbol for the owners, the more prosperous they were, the more intricately carved they were. They were custom made to order usually having the owners initials carved on them. With the exception of museums or real well off individuals that appreciate and value them, there really are no clients for them. I have never even attempted to figure out what I would charge for one, but from numbers thrown at me in the past it would be several thousand. There is an incredible amount of work that goes into one. There are a few made for the tourism trade as sort of souvenirs but nothing like this. They could not even be really used since not only they are incorrectly sized, they are structurally unsound. They are decorated with just lots of drilled holes and simple gouge cuts for carvings many made as coat racks. A few details of a finished one below.

I exercised my no name today. Used it to tote tools and materials for a raised bed keyhole garden bed we are building.