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Nope, no tractors. But I came home with this and had enough left from a Franklin to buy lunch. HB 1500lb ATV lift I added 4X4 blocks Hand cart with cast wheels w/ zerks. Swivel casters for my sons rolling gazebo hot tub cover.....In the design stage. Bimini top for the crabbing boat. Bucket of joist hangers for the gazebo and my new tractor shed. Oh, I noticed the hub/axle lock on this tractor while I had it up on the lift. Another option for those bar key,hub,axle problems.

The 42" deck is finished and I'm working on the tractor currently.

I think your horses need a bigger pasture

@Ed Kennell for a great deal on the parts! to everyone for all the help and instruction to make my project a success helping me to save another truly is one of the best forums on the internet with some of the friendliest and most helpful people on the internet and I'm proud to be a supporting member!

I really dislike it when people through bolt the hub to the axle. The motorcycle lift works great for working 's. I built this to gain an extra height on my lift. It only sticks out past the frame rails by 1/2" on each side. This allows the whole tractor to be assembled while it is on the lift. The tabs on top fit inside the frame so that the tractor can't slide off side to side. The tabs on the bottom keep it from sliding off from the lift.

My 520H in its typical configurations:

How about a group shot

It’s been awhile since I had any wrench time on a horse but today it happened...the coil was only firing on one cylinder consistently in the M18 going into winter. While we were on the last trip, I ordered a new one and today it was installed. It seems to work as it should. I’ll keep you posted as we get into mowing season😉

656 Getting a re-paint Waiting in the wings Almost done, but not quite. Waiting on parts My first Wheel Horse

My horses aren't out yet. But come time for the big show, you will see more horses than you can shake a stick at.

Little bit of crime prevention work today, after my close shave with a thieving little toe rag last week. Still at the development stage but sharp blades on fence tops are my preferred method. Im hoping he tries again tonight as I will be able to follow the blood trail. Large bandsaw blade screwed to the fence it not as sharp but still not a comfortable climbing experience. I've also ordered a few 12g shotgun mines to salt about the place. Blanks of course! Mick

I bought this about 10 years ago and used it occasionally, mostly as a backup and to mow the dog pen where my zero turn would not fit through the gate. I installed a larger gate on the dog pen and left this outside for a year when the battery died. Time to show it some love. Through the years I purchased 3 new Wheel Horse tractors. A 308-8, then a 414-8 and finally a 312-H Classic. My ex kept the classic. I switched to Kubota for my mowing after owning two Kubota tractors. Starting a little cleanup on the horse.

417-8 Summer and Winter duty.

C-141 auto "Dig Dug"(base for micro TLB project)

An true American hero. Rest In Peace Micheal Collins Apollo 11 I miss your generation.

Your hi/low mechanism is still in your RH case half. You have to remove those gears and the shaft to get at it. Check the manual and my video on how to take that apart and put it back together. That fork in there is what may have been your issue for not shifting...not between 2nd and 3rd, but more likely between hi and low range. Everything else in your pictures looks good to useable. There is a drift pin to pound out, but make sure you tap it out in the correct direction. In those numbers you showed on the trans..the 8163 is the part number for the RH case half. The others are for the foundry. I like a wire wheel also to clean gears and shafts. Your transmission probably is in fact a #5091.

You make sure that's legal, Mick. If memory serves the practice of cementing broke glass on wall tops, laid you open to prosecution/being sued if some one injured themselves on it. You know how things are these days. If someone breaks in and your dog bites them, you can get done for having a dangerous dog. Personally I like the electric fence idea.

I have to say that at heart I am a loyal horse lover .... but, this thing just kinda fell in my lap, you know - ("you like old tractors, I got one sittin out back I'd like to get rid of..".) Been sitting for looong time and was pretty sad, BUT, when I saw that tiller I figured I needed that thing! So, for $150 I drug it home. Didnt even know MF even made a GT! Any way, on getting into the thing I became more and more seeing that this thing was well made, and, was actually in pretty decent condition after sitting out that long. (another pleasant surprise was it had a Koehler K341!!) So after quite a few hrs on resto, this is what turned out, and I found I really liked the way it handled. While these larger MF's are indeed nice units, if you think parts are getting scarce for our horses ... well, try finding parts for these!!

I got it finished!

Got the new fronts on Rosie. Lookin' good!! I love that the new spindles have bolts instead of retention rings. Seems much sturdier. They fit perfectly! Then took the rears off, and put them in the back of the car for drop off at the shop tomorrow. While the rear tires are off, decided to take off the attach-a-matic because the connector bar broke. Will drop off at the welder tomorrow. There was quite a lot of grease and gunk on it. Is this normal, or do I have a leak somewhere? Also worked on the snow plow some. Received the handle parts and got everything assembled. Need to figure out what to use for the "upper index rod" that goes from the triangular plate to the control handle/release thing. Tried a piece of wire, but it wasn't quite sturdy enough. Wonder if fine chain would work... Was also planning to replace the lower rod that holds the blade on, but that sucker is rusted on. I don't know what I'm going to do about that. The entire release and swivel mechanism is quite stiff, but it's difficult to see what's going on inside the head, and I can't get the main bolt out (seems to be rusted in) to be able to clean and grease everything. Advice?

Got mine from McMaster Carr, comes in increments of 3 feet. I have used brake tube too it works as well. Tube looks good and works well but at the end of it all, getting the tube, fittings etc. Hose would have been cheaper. On tip, I mounted my stuff so the tubes could be replaced with common length hoses.

The interior design department wanted an industrial looking light fitting for our kitchen. Have you seen the price of those things? So the "I can knock one of those up" department had a go and came up with this... Scaffolding tube and fittings with a few coolie hat down lights and some bits of industrial decoration.

Let's start here with rebel

I've seen some really ugly repairs Dan, but this one appears to have worked. If this is done correctly by drilling and reaming for a body bolt the 1/2" bolt at two places has around 10 times times the shear of the factory key.

Road trip to purchase a Milwaukee M18 high torque 1/2 inch impact and the M18 sawzall then took another route home and made a visit to my favorite scrap yard to try out my new saw. Unfortunately the new battery's do not come fully charged but did manage to cut off a few pounds of silver soldered copper elbows before Danny the owner showed up. He showed me a car that had two pre-cats and two cats laying on its side so I whacked these off for him, then stole a 2HP repulsion induction motor. Last week I had borrowed the Milwaukee impact from the farm to remove the bumper from my truck to allow access to install a class 3 trailer hitch and was very impressed with the impact and today's use of the sawsall proved its worth. For a 2hp motor this thing is huge and heavy.

As far as I can find it is legal to fit spikes, glass, razor wire etc to fences or walls. There is a height limit for boundaries facing public spaces so that members of the public can't hurt themselves as they walk past. If a trespassing thief tries to sue me for injury he will have a fight on his hands. Id relish the chance to argue in court as to why he thought climbing over my fence into my home at 2 am was acceptable. They really are meant as a deterrent, not to injure. But even a deterrent has to have real teeth, imagine if all our nuclear weapons were just plastic imitations. So my spikes have real bite.

16HP with a 6 speed is the prefect combo.

Someone was an aspiring puller! The balls are just .25 ball bearings. the pin is about 7/8 long. Our resident transmission expert @stevasaurus took some time off to sober up we suspect but can verify things when he gets back.

Great model, my favorite, simple, rugged, sips fuel and very dependable

@pullstart went back and checked the MMC order. Tubing used was 1800 psi rated. I run the hydraulic relief at a 1000. With the 2 inch lift cylinders it works good, actually could be a little less. It raised the rear up easily when overloaded. Oh yeah, shipping on the longer stuff is costly.

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to the battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the tarter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over.

You need a 1990's Lawn Boy Gold-Pro 3 speed. Not the later DuraForce, but the classic looking version. F-model 2 cycle will run until the cooling of the sun, the cast iron 3 speed pulls hard and they never go wrong. Cast aluminum deck lasts forever with minimal care. Cuts like glass, quiet under deck exhaust, bags or mulches equally well. Getting kind of rare here in Maine, usually sent for scrap as soon as they need a carb clean.. I dont like the roller-drive LB machines personally. If SP isnt a big deal, the pusher LB's were all tanks. Nothing bad to say about old 2 or 4 cycle Suzuki powered Toro 21's either. Same 3 speed tranny as the LB. Old Snappers are cool but I'm not the biggest fan of the little B&S engines. The 'Zuki and LB engines will cut moderate brush long after the B&S has stalled in some tall grass. I used to turn 20-30 mowers a year over here from the yards. The LB's that were too rough to save we would monthly try to destroy one.. very rarely did we succeed.

I think it’s time for a night ride..

This evening I checked my cctv as my neighbour found one of his garden lights damaged by someone climbing over his fence. Found a thief at 2 am climbing into my garden and trying to break into my shed. I wish I could get my hands on the scum. See if he can go stealing with broken legs. But then, I recall one of our local thieves who was paralysed from the waist down in a car crash (stolen car so no sympathy). The government gave him a specially adapted car and he used it to drive other thieves round. Maybe the arabs have it right cutting their hands off.

I soaked this wheel for 3 days, and had a bearing puller on it for 3 days, it didn't budge. I have other wheels, but this is a 2 spoke wheel, and I wanted to save it if I could. When I was working on my C-141, I had the same problem, but there was no way to put a puller on that wheel. I subsequently ended up breaking it. At that time someone (I don't remember who) suggested cutting the shaft and then putting it back together again. That's what I did this time. I don't know what you call these do-hickeys, but I got one. I drilled a small divet at each of the 4 set screw points, to give it a little extra bite, since there is no key way in the shaft. Once everything is back on, I can slide the shaft in, and join it. The stop at the bottom, and the collar at the top of the shaft, I'm thinking will hold it together. If not, plan B.

If we are talking about a worn out hub that is no longer a good sliding fit to the axle, I agree, no bolting or new key would work. A to Z does sell new two piece conical compression hubs that will compress down to fit a undersize axle. But, with a good fitting hub and axle I believe a properly installed body bolt or a taper pin in a reamed hole with the parts assembled is a stronger connection than a woodruff key. This hub/axle connection is probably the weakest link in the Wheel Horse drive train and I do believe there are better ways to make a stronger connection . Here is an example. After using the standard thru the center pinning of large butteryly valve discs to 2-6" shafts for 30 years, we discovered we could double the shear area of the pin and double the strength of the connection by simply moving the pin to the edge of the shaft.

Yeah, I have cut several shafts and rejoined them with rigid shaft couplings. I would not recommend a Lovejoy or any flexible coupling. This shaft is only supported by a bearing at each end and requires a rigid shaft in between. A flexible coupling would be used to connect two shafts that are supported by two bearings each. I am concerned this arrangement will cause excess wear in the lower bearing block and possibly binding due to misalignment. 3/4" rigid shaft couplings can be bought for $10-$15 dollars. I typically weld to the lower half and bolt thru the upper half for easy disassembly.

Richmondred01 is correct, it's the 37 inch. I would have liked a bigger one but I was tired of searching so I'll make do. As far as the JD goes, I just park my WH next to it so my daughter knows what a real garden tractor looks like. You can lead them to water but you can't make them drink 🤣

I can tell you from the experience of seeing the ones in the Charger hydro I got from @Stepney Spenser that because the bolts are loose.... They get more loose. Eventually rendering the whole set-up garbage.

I own a 1985 Ford truck of the same body, and can tell you that if even a few body panels are in good knick and it has some good interior parts, she's worth well over 1000 here in Maine. And there are plenty of those old Diesel engines in rusted out junkers that still run well.. Im sure a donor could be located with some time. They're a great truck. I'm not a diesel buff myself and personally I'd just slap a 300-I6 in there with a 5 speed and call it a day. If the body is really that good it would make a great long term piece to own. In that era I think it would indeed be the old 6.9.

I love my wheel horses but my grandpa had a love for farmalls that got passed down to me. They're both red so it's almost like they're the same thing 🤣

You guys are the best - seriously would be lost without your help. I will look for the little ball bearings referenced above, the spring, pin and washer when I get back in town. I am encouraged that this thing will run again. LOL Got the battery on the charger so whenever I get the transmission finished, can start seeing what, if anything, is wrong with the engine. I was told nothing but it was sitting outside for a long period of time.

Nothing quite like the power of a 2-cycle when it hits thick grass. With a good blade, they'll chew into it without slowing down. If all you're used to is the newer 4-cycle machines, they can really put a grin on your face. I think the self-propelled Gold Series Lawn-Boys are using the same or similar Tuff-Torq 3-speed drive as the M-Series, just applied to the classic stagger-wheel Lawn-Boy deck. Check for grease zerks out by the rear wheels, and under the cover or deck, and keep it filled up with a few pumps of fresh grease.

No, use a single flare on the end of the tube. The sleeve slides up against the flare and this gives extra strength in the connection for the nut when tighten. If you are using pipe threaded ends on your system you might need to get pipe to JIC adapters. There might be a tube end for pipe but have not used or looked in to them. I like these JIC fittings because they give flexibility to the joint so the hose/tubes can be oriented in the best location. I believe this tube can be used with compression fittings as well.

@OldWorkHorse I did run under a low branch, and thought it was a goner. I kinda jumped off the side of the tractor because I thought I was going to be clobbered by a hot stack crashing down on me. The stack held fast, but I learned my lesson!

Polyps nurse Cindy says Norm ... pretty common and minor she says. Supposed to help one breath better. She also says they often do a septoplasty while they there. ... what ever that is. Supposed to help you sniff wine better I guess in Dino's case!