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There is no greater bond on earth, than that of a mother for her off-spring. EXCEPT ! 2 buckets stuck together

Dropped off Craig’s (AMC_rules) 60 year old Sivertown tires he bought last year in Indiana to his wife Linda (Mrs. AMC_Rules. The great Big Show photographer) at 8:30 am this morning In Newburgh, New York! Ruth and I were on our way to Boston to celebrate birthdays for two of our granddaughters-and we did surprise them!

Thanks so much Lane for stepping up and making this cross country transaction happen. Wouldn't have happened without you bud. Such an awesome resource we have available to us here on our little tractor forum. Couldn't even give the guy gas money, but know I will be returning the favor in W-H parts sooner or later. Which, you know...is all good by me. Anytime buddy, just say the word, you know I owe you one!

Good meeting in a public parking lot. Can't be to careful these days...

Picked up 4 OEM WH seats for 3 4 and 500 series tractors. 3 are complete and 1 was cushion only. The 500 series seat was in super nice condition complete with adjustable seat track, seat switch, gas spring with mount and NOS armrest kit complete with bagged hardware in original box. Next was another 500 series cushion only, in the same condition. The 300 series was seat only again in the same condition as the others, and 1 400 series seat with a nice pan and adjustable seat track with a well used seat cushion on the back top portion only, not pictured. Also a bit rusty 12'' rear WH embossed logo chrome hub cap with some time and elbow grease cleaned up very nice and now completes a set of 3 that I had as a 2nd spare set. As a bonus I finally found not 1 but 5 NOS padded keys with WH logo for the 3 and 400 series tractors. All from a RS member who I will keep to myself in case he does not want the recognition. GREAT guy. What I would expect from a RS brother.

That money is to buy more horses right!!

Here are some thoughts and words of wisdom!

Thank you Lane and Ruth for taking time out of your travels to bring Craig’s tires to NY! It was so nice to see you today- even though it was so windy and chilly -and you were very fortunate that the torrential rain -or up to 3 inches of snow- held out and you had a nice sunny morning to travel to Boston! Great to learn your grand daughters were surprised and I hope they enjoyed your family’s heirloom rocking horse, too! Thank you again, and we are wishing you both a wonderful visit with your family and safe travels!

I'd like to get a new dishwasher too Squonk but the divorce would cost too much! Yah fellas treated lumber is out the window and that's if you can even get it!

Saw two tractor trailer loads of lumber this morning on I-81. I think if I was the driver i might be concerned with being hijacked....

Oh Oh My intro said I tried this project before and failed. Now that my last update is 3 weeks old, it appears it happened again. Nope, It's just because I changed gears. I originally planned a go-kart drivetrain but if you examine the photo I will now have those gears to change. I always said building a custom is like one step forward and two steps back. And now with the anticipated spring nearly here, coming yard chores will be putting this project on a slower pace. How it ever gets done amazes me.

Had to run into Home Cheapo and pick up a few pieces of lumber for the grandson's swing project. Holy smoly, the place was like a nut house! I figure most all we out spending their $$Biden Bucks$$!

Even more funner, Empty antifreeze jug with a cap. Drill a hole in the cap and install a male air hose fitting screw the cap on the jug. Connect an air hose to the fitting and place the jug under @WHX24's work bench. Wait for said @WHX24 to start working on his transmission on the bench. Plug the opposite end of the hose into the shop air line and stand back. Wait for the hi-jinx to start! For even more hilarity add about a quart of water to the jug!

If you have an air compressor, grab a blow gun and point it at the seam where they meet. It will force air into the lower bucket & they will come right apart. Works every time!!

It is indeed! I personally might be concerned with frame 'twist' though and look for some ways to prevent that. And with that shifter between my legs, I would definitely want a good seat belt! And maybe wear a 'cup' when driving it! I don't think I would install the 'shifter handle' that I've pictured in my perverted mind either!

If a contractor is unable or unwilling to perform a PROPER HEAT LOSS AND GAIN calculation in order to properly size your heating and cooling equipment, ask them to leave. I would venture to say that over 90% of heating equipment these days is drastically OVER SIZED for the application. I recently installed a 64K BTU hot water boiler to heat my 1800 sq ft home in NJ after running detailed heat loss analysis (MYSELF), and even IT was larger than necessary but the smallest in the product line. It replaced some big old monster of 155K BTU and the new boiler has been handling the heating load JUST FINE for six winters so far. Every contractor that quoted the job was going to replace with same size and was unwilling to install what I wanted. Some didn't even know what a heat loss analysis was! I ended up doing the job myself. Do NOT replace "same for same" BTU wise without doing a proper heat loss analysis FIRST! https://www.pvhvac.com/blog/is-your-hvac-system-too-big https://www.google.com/search?q=why+are+heating+systems+so+often+over+sized

Not sure what the word/character limit is per reply but a full answer could exceed it. Rust, dirt, grease, oil, silicones and lack of sanding/scuffing will ruin a paint job. Coatings have a preferred temp/humidity range similar to your preferred range. Wash well and then clean with solvents meant for paint prep. Remove ALL rust, sand, grind, blast or electrolysis as needed. No need to remove good paint/primer but the edges need to be feather edged and it might be easier to just remove all paint on small parts. Clean again if there are any doubts, metal prep etch or use self etching primer. Sanding primer will fill minor rust pits and sanding scratches. Finish with 320-400. Paint per label instructions. Rust, and sheet metal work would take another reply. (or two, or three...) I'd do one piece to practice, maybe the worst one and then we'd be here to help with any questions. There's a ton of good info out there and on YouTube. I love YouTube!

I'll see yer ten years Cribs and raise you ten for lookin for an easy install that new dishwasher.....I got a my new to me dishwasher in '02 and still gives me problems.... here it is on a tractor that cost me more than five dishwashers Sorry Joe a little so let's blame it on Squonk.. he's our resident scapegoat anyway...... 'sides....how can I replace a dishwasher that looks that good on a tractor? !?!

First things first - after Work i try to go on the Road and hear a loud ploink from somewhere in the Front. when i want to hit the road, i slipped somewhere arround and get my car luckily stopped at the right roadside. a quick view doesn‘t show anything strong, a try to go back on the road clears - not Possible. The car seems to steer somewhere but not in the direction i want to drive. i put steeringwheel full to right and see the Disaster- right tyre points full right, left tyre points straight. ok, something in the steering is wron, that‘s now clear. After i move the left tyre by Hand i be shocked. The self tapping bolt from the tie rod end left side is completely missing, the tie rod is completely released into somewhere..... - W T F. glad this happens in slow speed while drive on the road and not in a funny ridden curve with 100 or even more 😎 - so no fine threaded Bolts or nuts for a quick fix available but - yap few stronger zip ties. They be handy ffor roadside fixes and allway's somewhere arround in my Car‘s So i get 2 heavy Ziptie‘s wind one over the thread after reinserted the tie rod into it‘s place and screwed it and good as possible on, than pulled with maximum force until short before it rips and drive Carefully back home. This roadside fix lasts until i‘m at home, but i must quick fix it, because the Shed is overfilled and the Shed door must be open. And yes, even there heavy Snowfall.. - and they tell some more snow. Ok, park Car nose in, jack it up remove the tires and go to the Car section and pick a new Tie rod end. checking the thread, this is absolute like new. Don‘t know what was happen to crack this nut. The TRE‘s was in the early day‘s allway's secured by a additional splint, but the newer tie rod ends didn‘t have a hole for that purpose. They just be secured by an self taping nut. - what a idiotic philisophie, that must be changed back. so i simply grab me a 3,2mm drill and drilled a hole in the thread and put a Safety splint in. After that was done it stops snow and begin to rain hardly and a little breeze comes up. i do a quick testride with the Car and all feels good and save back again, The horse run‘s in higher idle while i fixing my tie rod ends to warm up completely, than i shut off the Engine. After that i grab me a Coffee and than back to my Horse. Engine Hot start after longer testrun followed by a 10 min break. First impressions, When the Engine is not complete cold, a restart with the pullstart is the quickest way to fireup again. E-start works perfect if it is cold with choke, but not so good on hot or warm Engine or i may have to find out it‘s best start conditions. But however, with pullstart all works as it should. i have implemented 2 Charging / Light Coils one was allready installed, the second i refitted. because the weak Power of this coils of max. 1,5A each i splited them in the charging and a separate light systems. Before allway’s when i powered the Led‘s i get a Voltagedrop on the Single charging system. now i have allway‘s a batterycharge and little weaker lights i can live with. so i use now the original coil as charging Coil with the Diode charger as it was built in in the original Wireharness and the second implemented Coil over the Regulator now only for the Lights. The cigarette lighter is hooked on the Battery, because the Coils be to weak in current. I thinkering about winding myself maybe a high current Coil for the complete Charging system, but we will se how this Setup turns out on long term use. All this times i do also a Testrun on the mule drive, with the old mowerdeck belt on the pulleys runs 10mm disaligned, to see how much i can do that until the Belt jumps off or over. so far i be ok with the results, just needs bit more stable Weater for a Trailride, to ride in mud between 30 and 35deg F and a mixture of rain and wet snow ain’t be funny. Soi wait at least until road i dried because i don‘t like all that salt on my Horse.

I was out plowing snow with my 953 this winter. My retired Engineer neighbor was out blowing snow with his brandie new $2000++++ Simplicity snow blower. ( It has been sent back to the shop 4 times and the last time he said I want my money back! ) He comes over to me and asks "What year is that" and I reply "63". He just rolled his eyes, shook his head and walked back to his snow blower that he was pissed at!

Perfect! Super helpful, will check it out. You would think growing up surrounded by farms and having land I would've learned more about basic stuff like this but I'm so damn clueless. I was so proud when i bought a mower deck for this thing (previous owners i guess only used it for snow) and successfully installed it. That first time mowing with it felt so damn good, haha.

to the If the fluid is red or pink, it has automatic transmission fluid. Some owners converted their Sundstrand Hydros to SAE 10W30 motor oil. Both have proven to work equally well. The two fluids must never be mixed and care must be taken to ensure complete removal before changing to a different fluid. I would not switch. The 16auto is a beast of a snow remover......thanks for posting the pic.

After I got the charger 12 I put the tires and wheels on it from my rat 606. So for the 606 I decided to use the tires that came on the 520 that I turned into my loader tractor that I got from Horsefixer. They were like new but I wanted Ags and Vred 18 inch tires on the loader 520. I had the rear wheels fabbed for a little extra width and I really like how the larger tires look on the 606.

I've got a project going at our Missouri location. That house went on the city water department records in 1914. This is basically the story about how the course of a project on a 100 year old house wander the deeper you get into it. Seems every time you open something up, additional work turns up. It is a large 4 bedroom two story house with a basement and a full height attic. The front porch is full width of the building and maybe 10' deep. It has a concrete floor and brick railing (the original owner also owned the local brick yard). Over the year's, the concrete slab has deteroriated and cracked. Some of the cracks are running length wise, causing the slab to start settling. The front foundation for the porch also started to settle. Now it starts to get interesting. Last year, we had the foundation stabilized with jacks that screwed into the ground about 10 feet below the existing footing. Had to remove the front steps to do this, but they needed replacing anyhow. That was the easy part. Turns out that the brick veneer was laid on top of the slab. When the slab began to settle, it caused a bulge in the bricks along the front of the house. Further, it appears that the porch roof is supported py the brick veneer. The front edge of the porch roof is supported by 3 brick columns that are also laid on top of the floor slab. How to replace the slab without disassembling the entire front of the house? The plan the contractor and I came up with was to jack the roof up, remove the columns, cut the slab as close to the front wall as possible, add fill to support the new slab, pour the new slab, rebuild the brick columns, set the roof back on the new columns. Now reality is beginning to set in. We've gotten the roof jacks in place. While doing this, we notice the roof framing needs some work - I figured a new deck, new roofing, and probably replace a few of the rafters. Today, I got the bead board celing pulled down and got a good look at the roof structure. Looks like maybe 3 or 4 rafters are good, the rest are either bad or iffy. Looks to be a better bet to scrap the roof and completely rebuild it (will now need a building permit). Also, the rafters are in pockets in the brickwork, so it looks like the bulging brickwork is supporting the roof - this complicates reattaching the bricks to the front of the house. This is beyond me, have to find a brick mason. Oh, ya - can't forget the foundation blocks that need re-pointing. The original mason who laid them pointed the joints with convex beads of mortar. Got to find the proper tuck pointing tool to duplicate that...... I'll post a few pictures in the near future and as the project progresses.

That hub cap cleaned up very nice, good job. It was my pleasure to meet you and pass on some parts to keep these tractors looking good for many years to come. Darb

And still be one elbow short somewhere! I put one in a couple weeks ago. Forgot my meter. Figured oh well. Flipped the breaker that was clearly marked “dishwasher.” It was clearly NOT the dishwasher when I pulled the pigtail through the box and the ground and power melted each other! Lessons learned: 1) check power to be sure it’s off. 2) Make sure the 95 year old mother in law with dementia is not watching when the sparks happen. It’ll give you both the excitements!

@Oldskool When you drive on the right, it’s a plow. If you drive on the wrong side of the road, it’s a plough. I figured I’d help you understand.

Worked on the 1257Heavy project today, put couple exhaust tabs on for support and started building a front bumper! Coming along slowly but nicely!

@jaypad I've got a 1973 16 Auto that's makes for a great snow thrower. I use my 1976 c160 for a snow plow, you can't beat that 16 horse engine.

Post it for $50. Bet it would find a new home, save a , and save a trip to the junkyard...

Bought a new dishwasher last week at Lowes. They told us it would arrive April 24th. Well it came today! Now anybody who has installed a dishwasher before knows "What you take out is not the same as what you put in." The water connection was different ( had to build an adapter) and the electrical box was in a different spot. (Needed a 90 deg flex connector) so of course a trip back to Lowes. Our store is weather driven. If the suns out it's busy. If it's raining you can throw a bowling ball down the aisles and not hit anybody but workers.

Surprised Linda didn't drive the little RER there but it was cold! Could have strapped my little trailer to the roof of Lane's car and he could have thrown it at me as he drove by on the return trip!

I will second what Dan @Achto said about wax and grease remover. I have used this type of product for over 20 years with great results.

There are certain trail and orv passes for vehicles that cannot be registered.

Throw them on the ground so the side hits. Might spring em. If that doesn't work, get out the hose!

I've had good results stripping parts with white vinegar. I have a small plastic concrete mixing tub and pour about 4 gallons in it. It takes a while but the paint comes off. No nasty fumes. Garage smells like an Italian kitchen and I pour the left over vinegar on the burdock on the fence line!

I've been paged?!?!? Actually what you described Steve is common for your area but I still think anyone north of the Mason-Dixon line should stay away from heat pumps like the Covids. Never liked them never will. Have had to replace too many reversing valves which are a real pain. Just too much expensive things to go wrong with them. The older ones forget it since R-22 is NLA. Yes newer stuff (HP's) is a bit better but also considered disposable out of warranty. Loaded with expensive electronics, mother boards etc. True both also untrue. If the old a/c is working good and not a POS that was ill taken care of. Easier to replace as a package and usually get a nicer job. Right about in my ballparks for "average" replacements. About right Mikey...Amana tho???....eeewwww Things to keep in mine get more than a few quotes from reputable contractors. Be wary of high prices and low ones. One should find several in the same price ranges so those are the ones to focus on. Compare apples to apples and watch out for the professional salespeople who want to upsell you to a Cadillac ... comfort advisors are what they are called nowadays and trust me they have setting the hook down to a fine art. I get this question asked alot ... what is the best brand? I come right out and tell them it's all junk ...just somes better junk than others! Most times the difference is how it is installed. I can take a top of the line unit and throw it up in the air and where it lands it gets installed... or pay attention to detail. Supporting ductwork is everything. Bounce model numbers off me I'll tell you what junk you are buying. Back to Specials post.... electric house are taboo up here nowadays. we do not have very good electrical rates and most houses in the 70's 80's 90's poorly sealed. Yes a gas 96% two stage furnace and ditch the heat pump if it R-22. If you are serious about buying the place get a reputable HVAC contractor to look at it before hand and tell you what you are buying

Good point Mike... understandable Never knew they had a catalog ... really don't need one their site is so easy to navigate. You can save items you order alot, save shopping lists. Bonus they excellent technical stuff on things, types of fasteners, materials etc..

on the snoring ! so lm told!

My favorite catalog. Also works well at night when your trying to fall asleep but can't because you have a big project at work keeping me up. With the small lettering it makes my eyes sore and before you know it i'm snoring. How do I know I snore, I've been told multiple times.

This particular one is a model 422437 as well- ball bearings AND an alternator under that flywheel, folks! No need for a PTO on mine, but looks like thats the one WH used for it This engine was on an old 1967 Roper- the cleanliness versus the rest of the machine AND any research done told me this was not original. Sure enough, its manufacture date is 1988. As for the 60 dollar steal, consider it payback for all the Horses I see you guys rescuing from junkyards and next to sheds for 50 bucks or even free. Anything under 300 down here in NC gets my serious attention, and chances are at that price it will be well used, have flat, dry rotted tires, and no mower deck. A complete, big block powered 70s model ready to go for 450-500 is a 'decent deal'.

VERY nice. I do like a nice wide rear. On a tractor.

I don't care what they charge. You need it, they got it, you get it. No worries, no drama, no games. When I used them at work, I liked the fact l could tell a customer I'll have the part tomorrow.

For most of my life I worked in Architectural Woodwork in the NY area. We used McMaster Carr just about 3 days of every week for most times highly specialized items related to our work. I traveled hundreds of times to their facility in NJ to pick up items.. First, most of their shipping is really overnight shipping. The reason for that is that this not a regular operation where at the end of the day UPS goes there to pickup items at their facility. UPS is there on a permanent basis. Every bay on the loading dock which is about 10 has either a UPS trailer or truck parked there . As they are filled they are immediately picked up and another one parked there. I can guarantee it that within 10 minutes of an order being placed it is on the UPS Vehicle. These people run a seriously organized business. They are not the cheapest but they are the best as far as service and item availability. They are an example of organization and efficiency.

They're for ploughing. Sighting poles. You set them in line down the plot/field. One at the start. One half way and one at the end. Help you make a good straight furrow.

Black horse ready and able.

If you decide to raffle her off put me down for two tickets.

One more part roughed in. Onto the next.