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Got the C-141 out, not seen the light of day for about 6 years took the cover off and a quick wipe.

Well, I'm back at it with another Horse in the garage and its my first black hood model too! Per the serial its a 1980 with a Sunstrand and it moves/runs good with no smoke or knocks. Observation: Ive had older (c160, B80) and newer (416H) Horses but their engines were not rubber mounted as far as I could tell (maybe the 416 was but def not the others). Is this unique to the early 80's single cylinder models? The engine rocks a little bit like a Harley. I purchased this primarily for pulling a cart, aerating and serving as a backup mower should my main WB mower go down. But with this rear discharge deck I can see some springtime and fall mowing/sweeper duty happening too. So I took the deck off right away to see whats going on. Looks like it is newer, circa 1989 The frame assembly above the deck was a little tweaked - probably because three of the 3/8"-1" carriage bolts were missing. Replaced them and it straightened out. After scraping the underside of the deck, removed the covers and belt, lubed the tensioner, greased the spindles (all tight), replaced the belt (I think it was 89") and sharpened the blades. The deck wheels are pretty worn so picked up a pair of 7" wheels at Lowes. I dont think these will last long will they so will probably get the proper OEM HD red ones. The thought with the 7" wheels was to get more cut height (always the challenge with a Horse!) so as to extend the mowing season a bit. After some adjustments with the rear rod and gauge wheels the blades are at 3" up front (lowered down off of "transport" position) Since the rear is at 3.5" here the shorter 6" red wheels should bring it back down close to level. Next step is removing the seat pan for a look-see at the hydro and changing the main belt, fluid and filter. Ive also got a metal "C" seat pan and might be swapping it out because I think I like the lower profile aesthetic better (plus the plastic pan is cracked in a few places ) Oh, I also drained the engine oil by removing the cap directly underneath the engine and noticed something odd: I think its got the wrong dipstick because after only 1.5L its reading way high. A K301 engine takes 1.9L, no? There is no other drain plug is there? Paul

Here's the previous post to the one above: Crawlspace project is nearly complete, still need to replace the two 'temporary' supports with something considered 'permanent' by building codes, but other than that, ... Three new 'permanent' supports under the main 'stick'. I do need to encase the bottom screw end in concrete too, but going to wait a while on that in case they need a touch up adjustment after everything settles. This is what's under the vapor wrap in the photo below: 2" of spray foam all around the rim joist, sill plate, top of foundation wall. 2" of reflective foam board insulation on walls. Drainage mat on floor with 1" of foam board and then heavy vapor liner on top of that. All seams taped up tight so no moisture or air intrusion.

I unloaded these freebies tonight. I think they are 3 phase. The shop has a phase converter. One drill I’ve had for a bit, the other came tonight. Maybe I can make 1 out of the two. I am not sure what is wrong with them, or if they’ve been upgraded at my FIL’s work.

A Rusty 42 inch Wheel Horse Sickle Bar Project I will undertake this year!

Lined up a couple of them left to right - M20, Briggs 18 twin, M16, Command 15, M12

Sounds like the guys got you covered so I'll just A 753 is a favorite model around here. Yes you need any help use your shout out. Here's mine, I left as is and doubt I would ever resto it. I enjoy it too much as is.

I’ll for sure be posting progress photos as I go along and I can already tell there’s plenty of help from this community!

I wouldn't be in hurry to paint. The choice is certainly yours, but many restorers prefer to preserve the patina that has developed over 60+ years. There are many posts and examples of this process.

Usually the last thing.... fix all the mechanical stuff first, you don't want to risk scratching a brandy new paint job!

I started a thread a little while back "Something from Nothing". It has been upgraded to this thread because now I'm building something from something lol. I started with a new frame and strengthened the transaxle mount a bit.

Sigh... Guy passed away and his Daughter in law is trying to clear out his shop and backyard, she was 25 miles from my brothers shop so we decided to go take a look. Probably 15+ tractors, some complete and some carcasses still there. I saw this complete 312-8 with a plow and figured 2 is always better than one and this gives me the mounts I needed to buy for a tiller, but came with a tractor. A guy offered her 10 bucks for a complete tractor and she said sure, she just wants the "crap" gone so she doesn't have to clean it up. There is still 2 trailers packed full to go through, I peaked inside one and there was a wad of V belts that was 4 feet high. Ended up with the complete 312-8 with a plow, a 12 HP Magnum off a 312A and the hood from the 312A for next to nothing. 312-8 has 800ish ours on it and the spare 12 from the 312A had 1111 hours but the block is grey, is this a replacement block? Spare engine has the muffler with chrome guard the complete tractor has no muffler. I have a few projects ahead of this but I plan to get both engines running. There was a complete 310 I would have taken if we had room, but we didn't take a trailer- for good reason... My brother ended up with a VERY clean Bolens Power Hoe, (in the background of my picture), and a few implements for a walk behind

I’m a new-to-me Wheelhorse owner! My grandfather passed away several years ago and I insisted I get his little red tractor. Just recently I got around to trying to restore it. I was hoping I could get some help understanding exactly which model I have and if anyone out there has any advice on what my particular model might need. Seems like a good place to start. Thanks for any help!

I shortened the steering by 3.5in

Taking off the plow or raking the stones out of the yard in March will do it every time!

Finally got some new bushes for starter motors. One on the C-125. One on the C-121 and a spare off the parts Raider 10. It's the bushes at the Bendix end that want replacing. Not exactly the same, but I modified one, fitted it and all is well. I'll do a little thread after I've done the others. Wanted to see how the first one turned out before I did.

Thanks to @Keith of kent for some extra parts to add to my growing collection of Wheelhorse bits and bobs in the garage. Its like Christmas!

Started tearing the front axle out of this to replace it with a 520H swept forward front axle.

Transmission swap complete on the C141. I broke the cardinal rule when buying a hydro, I didn't thoroughly check it out when I bought it. Trans was very slow and weak so I started looking for a replacement. Luckily one came up for sale not far from home-it was off a C121 so it was set up for brakes, which is one feature I really like over the CXX0 series. Works great once I closed the tow valve Now on to the hydro leaks on the C160. Gonna start with repairing the lift cylinder, then look for other leaks if any.

Got a super cool (early 60s??) Kohler generator from @Oldskool yesterday. I'll start a thread about that sometime... Today I took a sawzall and turned a VERY rugged pallet into a stone boat. Used the Cinnamon Horse to drag the genny to a better place in the drive until I can wash it up and get it down to the outdoor workshop.

A while back, I read a post where someone did not have an air filter on their K341. I can't find the post now, or I would have put this there. There seems to be a lot of breaking of the back plate on K series air filters, and apparently, they are getting scarce. I thought something could be done about that, so I made one. I am sure others have also, but this is my version. I put this on my K321, as a test fit. If I were going to leave it on there, every nut, bolt, and screw would have Locktite. The small round piece is plastic. I know where it came from, and I know what it's used for, and it is VERY tough stuff. It's not hard and brittle like plexiglass, but not easy to bend either. It machines very well. I would say it has a consistency somewhere between pine and maple. It is 5/8" thick. Overkill. !/2" would have worked just fine. Even less if you wanted to add another gasket or 2. The larger round piece is 14 gauge. This does not have the rigidity provided by the rolled edge of an original back plate, so I went thicker. again, 14 may be overkill, but better than not enough. If I wanted, I could add that little brace that fastens to the side of the carb with 2 screws.

The dash and hood are now mounted. I have had so many sets of tire combos in and out of here. I think I like this the best and they are here. Other than maybe changing to tri ribs on front.

Of course I took off the blade... 20210315_140653.mp4

The coffee cup in the picture is also a stupid project. I changed the company logo so that it has an extra arm with a cup and saucer in it and renamed the company "Northdrink Beverages" instead of "Northlink Ferries". Its so subtle that nobody notices unless I point it out

Once upon a time, (7 years ago) a handsome young prince I picked up a motor replacement for my 520H. it was not the right motor, though! link to the original debacle! i found a couple parts motors to fill out the short block and decided to get a gasket set and then had a second child and promptly forgot about the whole thing. Fast forward to this year, when my onan started smoking noticeably, not just on start up by often under load - i mean like burns enough oil in an hour to go from full to empty on the dipstick bad. i was thinking about a predator repower, and then digging around in the barn for something else completely i came across the box with motor in it and felt dumb for having forgot about it in the first place. Then i came on here, and read that the N52M was longer than the p220 and thus wouldn't fit in a motor swap - but - i actually measured them, and, i think it will - the p220 from edge to edge of the sheet metal mid motor is ~21" and ~13.5 inches wide at ~19 inches tall. the parts N52M (doesn't have a muffler, so that is a bogey in this) in the same spot is only an inch longer, and an inch wider. and with the air cleaner that is currently on it it is about a half inch taller. looking at it, i think i might even be able to adapt the p220's air cleaner to it as it is a bit indented and so a little lower profile. i'm going to pull that baby out and see if i can get it lined up (and better measurements) i have an extra hood from a 518 that i could utilize to make it a little taller if need be as well, and there is a little room for more motor under the hood front to back - so this could work out! pictures to come once i dig these guys out (i have a full set of tins for a N52M, a motor i bought as "junk" a motor i bought as "running" and the NOS short block i bought from ebay 7 years ago - so quite a bit to dig out from behind my camper and other assorted junk valuable pieces of history.

Better make that warning sign a wee bit bigger...

Hole issue is no big deal, just give it a push over and the holes should line up good enough. The bracket underneath is a big U shape so it moves pretty easy.

Hey EB

Old tool box and a bunch of wrenches I got real cheap at an auction. Turned them into a bird feeder. Took a pedal car with custom paint job turned it into a real cool baby stroller. Welded a big castor wheel under the front end to lift the front wheels about 1/2 inch off the ground. Hacked up a car seat to fit in. Made the handle bars. Made the front bumper to hide the castor wheel. Steers like a shopping cart. Another head turner at the car shows.

I seem to enjoy ‘em too! Putt Putt was my first ever Wheel Horse, so I’ve got a thing for the ones most like it! Poppy, that build kind of just happened and I’m glad it did!

Just don’t ever offer to run Uncle Jim @WHX24’s 753 around... it’ll likely die on the back end of a trail ride in mosquito season!

Thanks! It does look like a close match and they look good together. I’m mostly restoring it because my grandfather was a machinist and taught me so much about mechanics and machining, but also for my nephews as a way of learning more about our family’s history so I’m certain they will love a nice shiny red tractor that fits them. So glad everyone has been so helpful!

Always glad to see a family heirloom being brought back and shown a lot of love. The light your grandfather added may not be "correct" but it helps tell the story of this particular so don't hesitate to leave it there, . Your tractor, by all means do it your way.

@Jeff-C175 great panoramic shot! Looks like a great outcome!

Honestly after sitting that long, it’s likely that many wearable items are pretty well intact still. Make sure you jack the front end up BY THE FRAME to grease the front axle, steering, spindles, hubs, etc. taking the weight off the axle and other items allows the grease to get where it needs to be. I agree with Ed. It’s surely your own tractor! Do as you wish, but the paint is only original once. A good wet sand job will easily expose a beautiful finish that you can wax, apply boiled linseed oil, or clear coat satin or crystal to really make it pop!

You could save your self a whole bunch of work & just send it to me. I'll give it a good home. Don't like that idea??? That's all good, I'll just follow along.

to the 753 7= 7HP 5= 3 speed manual transmission 3 = 1963 manufacture date Actually Ed, the 5 stands for electric start. Edited by Stevasaurus

I grabbed 13 bales of straw for free... leftovers from a construction project a couple minutes away. They have been wet quite a few times, but I’ve 15 happy chickens!

This is my personal favourite. I brought a huge teapot for the ship as there is a group of us that like drinking tea. It's revolutionised our social life onboard and at times the messroom has the buzz of a pub - a far cry from when I first started and everybody hid in cabins. Anyway, we wanted a tea cosy for the pot and a dozen people promised to knit one.... And never did. I got bored of that and was sitting there one day playing with my hard hat when an idea formed - so simple, elegant and entirely appropriate. The stickers are home made and just nonsense to make it look cooler. It's been popular, and I have had to make several more for "clients"! There is also a pile of hard hats with holes in that were the wrong shape for the pot, and a lot of guys wondering what happened to their hats.....

This evening I took the plastic pan off the C-125 in preparation for a metal one checked hydro fluid and it looks brand new woo-hoo! 6 out of 8 holes line up will have to enlarge these two right ones to make it work. Nothing is bent that I can tell and put on a new deck drive belt

A guy we know in Indiana did 4H projects & school shop stuff with kids with . What better way to teach them like grandad did. .... things that will last them a life time. Lol hey... is it my fault 58 year old fuel pumps go out while on tour Kev?

Well I'll be.... That's quite a name! Yeah buddy.... I'm here for this one.

Kohler engines have three numbers that may be significant in identifying the features of the engine. 1. model number - K identifies engine series 30 thirty cubic inches, 1 number of cylinders Suffix numbers are very important, A determines a smaller base that is different from an engine that may have a bigger base, (undesignated) example K301, K301S (starter), K 301AS (small base & starter), K301AQS (Q designating quiet pkg. , whatever that consists of, part of it being balance gears). 2. serial number This could give a hint of time built and may or may not be important. 3. spec. (specification) number - This number also gives detail information for parts, crankshaft (pto) details, gear reduction unit, fuel type, (gasoline propane etc.) ignition and information for parts. The only difference determining the interchangability is whether it is a small base block or large. the rod splash dipper is shorter than the big base engine and could be a disaster id they are mixed. As far as using your old crankshaft, it will depend on three things, condition, condition, condition. Wheel Horse used 1" & 1 1/8 pto crankshaft diameters, but you would have to have the correct end for your purpose. Depending on how big the missing piece of the cylinder is I have seen them run with small pieces missing.

Thanks! I do have the hood for it. It has a light mounted to the front, which I’m guessing is something my grandfather added. It runs well but I’m guessing I have a long way to getting it back tip-top. I’m betting it hasn’t been run in 20-30 years. First thing is a new coat of paint!

I totally agree with Pullstart. Looks like a great project!! Glad to see that you are making it live on. Check our vendors section for great sources for parts. Feel free to ask questions as well, we like to help out as much as we can.

That's the VERY reason I have schooled the Squaw here what things are worth.If I go first,I tell her to get close to what my things are worth and don't give them away.Worst thing to do would be give everything away for scrap metal.I cringe when I think about THAT.

5 stud with a 4-1/2" bolt circle. Toyota listed as 114.3mm bolt circle same thing. Light duty trailer axles in North America use the same size. I have 14" or 15" wheels off a large 1980's Buick or Oldsmobile front wheel drive mounted backwards on a WH and look stock except for the diameter. Garry

I would think "Chock Full of Nuts would be a fave!

I'm still a newb to putting these together but here is another horse being brought back from the dead.

This is what I used last year for the 2 small plots here on our property, a 315-8, then what I am going to use this year eMax22... So no not over kill.