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I noticed the late Classics had a full foot guard and after running this Winter realized why they made the change. I made up some 6x6 plates over rubber to prevent the wonderful chemical reaction between metals!

Have a great start to the next 50 years Dan.

Happy Happy Bud! Can't wait for Portage Show for a fish fry guys so taking him out to a one horse town for fish tonight!

At first I thought @pullstart was the OP!

Happy Birthday Dan! Take a day off from getting Jim out of jams.

Happy Birthday Dan Drink Wisconsinbly and have a great day.

An early escape from work yesterday gave me some time to play on a lathe. I used this time to whip up some new drag link bolts. I made them just a bit longer so that I could use washers with them when installed. Finding Stainless jamb nuts proved to be a challenge so I just faced down some standard stainless nuts. @pullstart I used my "eyecrometer" when I made the jamb nuts. Measured them later to find out that there is only .001" difference in thickness between them. Talent or just luck?? I'll let you make the call. New ones next to the old.

Follow the Blood Trail...........I hesitated to open this. Glad it was not you that sprung a leak.

With a big Group 8D battery you can make toast!

I caught my willi in my zipper ... I went waw...

I still think the 1045 is faster than the 312-8!

That may depend on which line you blew...artery or vein. Sorry Lynn, looks like we're , but, you started this blood thing.

Battery is at least 5 years old, I suspect closer to 8 or 9. I looked for a date on it but couldn't find it. The battery I bought yesterday replaced a real cheap one. Didn't last 24 months , wouldn't hold a charge. I was looking for a much bigger problem , a broken plate makes sense. It all happened WAY too quickly. , minutes. That's why it didn't make any sense to me. Appreciate the quick replies. tp

Square blade anchor / keeper.

Dear Ma: Me’n Willi waw’ eggs and pig for supper. Dear Paw: Willi waw’ that Sears and Roebuck 20 gauge for Christmas. I waw’ the 12 gauge.

Be forewarned... I know a certain Squonk that can produce some violent williwaw! For reals!

I'd had 'bout a passel o' beans the night before and been creatin' a fair amount of my own (b.) williwaw. Unfortunately I was standing in a very busy grocery store checkout line so I created quite a (c.) williwaw.

I have to wait over 50years to get this great opportunity. Now i can enjoy every fract of second, what i do.

Yes still driving the tow truck as well, The shop I work at is a full service tire shop, but we also do 24 hr towing, and starting to take on more and more mechanic work as well. I will do tire work around the shop, but I made it very clear when I started that I am a mechanic and a wrecker operator, not a tire guy. I will be on 24 hr call for the wrecker for days at a time without complaints, but I refuse to take a tire call after hours. But anyhow, today’s project was getting my tool cart cleaned out, and most everything transferred over to the new truck. I’m sure I will end up reorganizing it a thousand times before I get it how I like. Just a quick picture I got of the socket drawer, will get more pics as I get it all set up.

Phfsshhh birthday luck...

Thank you all so much for the wishes & laughs !! So far today has been just another day of burning diesel fuel for my employer, but quittin' time is just around the corner. Looking forward to some time with my friends and a good meal tonight.

yep the best 20 bucks I have spent at HF.

The williwaw that is created by the tractors falling out Craig's shed when he opens the door, will suck the fillings clean out of your teeth!

Williwaw, you always goin’ on about ‘s... Don’t you think you have enough of them??? Williwaw looked on in utter confusion, unable to grasp such nonsense...

And we're nosy.

Happy Birthday @Achto Brother from another Mother. 🎁🎂 Have a fantastic Day.

Maybe?

I was able to find the sticker, apparently it's about 51yrs out of date.

Nope! Because I don't wear a kilt not being Scottish.

That's what I was thinking ,engine needs enough idle speed to splash oil for good lubrication and cooling. Bob

Man, those wiliwaws sure can make your hoobie-doobies stand out. Nice hoobie-doobies.

I had to double check the author of the post.

Definately talent!

Keep in mind Kohler idle speed is about 1250

I had a 1990 210-H. Bought it brand new with the deck, snow plow and chains for $2000. Owned it for 20 years. Even got a Simplicity blower to work on it. I replaced the seat, charging diode and a tie rod. that's it. 200 series tractors are a lot better than people give them credit for. Wait for the grass to start growing and ask $495 for it and it will sell.

“Red Square” keeper...

Your symptoms are pointing to a bad battery. I don't believe there's a problem with the PTO, save your time, don't make work for yourself. Change the battery

Happy Birthday Don't let Jimbo the clown get you into trouble today.

Had a wet weather spring where I built my shop. We had the track-hoe dig a pit at what seemed to be the wettest point and a four foot deep trench away from it and filled them with 1 1/2"-2" crushed stone. That moved the spring away from the shop about fifty feet. Works like a charm.

Another dealer decal! Highway 19 Wheel Horse in Elkhart, Indiana.

Happy Birthday Dan, we are all very glad you were born!

I wouldn't be afraid of the series 1.Like Craig said.Keep the oil slightly over filled.Change it regularly,.And never mow across a slope.I have two C-175's.One with a series 1.One with a series 2.Just my opinion,but they're both a hell of a tractor.I've been mowing 5 or 6 acres here the last couple years with one.The area started out as over grown crap about 3 feet high.Went through it like nothing with a 42 inch side discharge deck. Buy it.Youll like it.

and... I've read that Achto (DAN) can too.

IIRC, the engine serial #'s ending above 300 are the Series 2 models. 175's were offered with both engines, true. I mow steep, albeit short slopes with my Series 1, no problems. Owned my machine, over 5 years, oil in it is changed early, regularly, and always over filled slightly. You never move equipment safely across a slope.

With that model if your parking brake is on and you try to put in gear it will shut down. I have the same machine

$50 The carb and starter on the engine is worth those kind of bucks! Spend a little and save it from the williwaw!

That would look cool in a Wheel Horse dont ya think

Well i had it all up and running yesterday and drove it around. Now i just got ro do the final pieces and last minute touches.

Can you weld it shut and redrill/thread? There isn't much room on the backside to the steering pivot to do much else. Just enough for a jam nut. Just the opposite here the frame threads good the bolt threads gone. SS....no wait Titanium or gold, maybe not .... the money I just dropped on transmission bearings...

Thanks for adding this thought. Detecting that the operator is out of the seat is straightforward and the machine already has a switch for that (it comes into play when the PTO is engaged) Detecting that the motion lever is not in neutral is also straightforward on machines that have a switch for that (yours apparently does not, according to the wiring diagram). You can likely buy and add this switch--it mounts under the console floor plate. So the conditions are these: The engine runs as long as: Operator is in seat (regardless of PTO or motion lever) PTO is disengaged and motion is in neutral (regardless of operator in or out of seat) The engine starts as long as: PTO is disengaged and motion is in neutral (regardless of operator in or out of seat or position brake pedal). I'm assuming that since your brake was frozen but the tractor started that the pedal interlock shown in the wiring diagram has been defeated. Please clarify. Electrically, the start and run circuits are separate--this is a good thing for reliability and safety. So what's needed is a DPDT (double pole - double throw) lever-actuated microswitch mounted to detect neutral (or two SPDT versions ganged together like in the PTO mechanism). No relay is needed. One NO* (normally open) side will be wired in place of the existing pedal interlock sensor in the starting circuit--this prevents starts while lever is not in neutral. One NO* (normally open) side will be wired into the existing circuit between the PTO switch and the "+" terminal on the ignition coil -- this stops the engine when the motion lever is out of neutral unless the operator is in the seat. * NO contacts are closed when the motion lever is in neutral. These two attached images show how the switch gets mounted to the console plate to detect the lever in neutral. This image is a modified wiring diagram showing the changes (circled with orange highlighter). I hope the wiring gurus will double check me here.