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I bought three coffees this morning. I kept one and gave tutelary. He was thirsty.

Did a try today. because i must Wait that long last time for my Rear Rim‘s i decide to make me 2 4-Bolt Wheelhubs. Simply bought 2 VW Golf III front Wheelhubs for 15$ both and rework them today on the Mini Lathe. found a fitting Bolt what i can use as testobject to verify if it fits. Tadaa - two new 4Bolt Wheelhubs. they just need 2 threads for Setscrews to be ready to use. 801613DE-BC90-40E9-94FD-0A82EB751007.MOV

I decided to cut the hydraulic line at the swivel and have a new one made, only problem was my hack saw was in my truck at work. For some reason I grabbed a pair of channel lock pliers and found a very small spot next to the swivel that looked like I may be able to grip (vice grips hadn't worked). Much to my surprise it moved! Put it on the replacement trans, using the good end (plenty of room at valve to get a wrench on the "bad" end). Not much room to work in there, but I finally got everything positioned away from the steering sector. Hope to have enough free time to get it finished by weekend so I can start work on the C160. (several leaks I need to find on that)

Made use of this nice warm Maine day to do some metal work on the 1257Heavy project. Some cracks and welds from the PO needed to be fixed or re done and filled some holes where lights were mounted and filled in the lift handle slot since won't be using that. Not bad better if my gas welder wasn't down but not bad for gasless 🤷‍♂️

Not to tutelary's horn, but he really has a nice collection of 's...

Picked up tree limbs and plowed some ruts at moms house today!

Then the simplest solution would be fixing the parking brake?

That is way too nice for Pullstart's herd ...I best tutelary it.

"Of my 2 brothers, only one is named Larry"

I cut them with my LAVA VISION!!!!!!!

I still think the 1045 is faster than the 312-8!

Not long that's fer sure. When you say you ordered just the end cap? Not possible the end and rod come as a matched set. The crank big end also has to get measured and see if you need to go 10 under. The whole shebang should then be plasti gaged to make sure things are copastetic.

Still loving this mid mount grading blade! Unfortunately, hit a snag. She won’t start hot. 🤨 Time for diagnostics.

I'm dividing the candy among Squonk's brothers. One to him and tutelary.

Being an owner of multiple tractors, I always keep at least 1 carb kit on hand at all times. The last 3 kits that I used were on other peoples tractors, but I replaced them immediately so that I would have one in stock.

Ok a truly simple fix, fab up a "Y" fork that would be hinged/bolted to the shifter console plate, so during use it is out of the way, then when stopped simply flip the Y fork over to capture and block shifter from moving either direction, totally mechanical no electrical failures.

How about pulling up the tranny clutch lever disengaging the hydro when you get off???

Well.. I wish I could talk about life here in the machine shop I work at, but cant say much due to being aircraft related.. Just finished 'overhaul' of my 1951 Farmall Cub engine, it's been in a nice heated garage throughout the whole ordeal. Finally decided last weekend to get her back to the property she belongs on. Hydraulic pump on the F-Cub is a rather poor design, and has a literal O ring for an input shaft seal. No matter what I did, it weeped.. into the oil pan.. So it got a healthy dose of 30wt and that sorted the leak .. mostly. Won't hurt anything at least. Still 6v, cause it always worked fine.. Drove it onto the trailer no trouble, and hauled it off to my grandparents place.. It was 11* outside.. 45 minute ride. Climbing onto the seat I accidentally grabbed the lever for the hydro lift and moved it. It's quite sensitive and even when in good shape they lug the engine a bit. Nice tight rebuilt motor + 30wt in the hydraulics, trying to move the lift, below freezing, with a 6 volt starter.. You can imagine how well this went. Got tired of smelling burnt insulation and decided to just pop start it.. off the trailer. Those cubs fall to earth right quick when there's nothing holding them up.. did get it rolling fast enough to fire up though. Some years ago when i first bought my '85 Ford, I had the top of the 4 speed pulled apart to change the oil. Tremec never installed a drain plug on my model.. Had the front spindles apart at the same time and was waiting on bearings. Truck was up on stands. Friend dropped by and wanted to hear it run. Let my foot off the clutch and forgot it was in gear on account of the tranny being apart.. again with the gravity? Had a '74 Ford LGT tractor and I think Eric was lucky enough to see the aftermath of it's adventure. Grabbed the mail for my grandfather from the top of the hill, and started down. Jumped out of gear so I let it roll a moment before remembering it had no brakes. Plowed it through the back wall of the garage and into the basement. 1913 Associacted 1 3/4hp hit and miss. Smelt an awful funny burning smell and shut off the spark, but it kept on running. Just had it apart. A smoldering shop rag was still in the bore, and it seems somehow it actually was running like that. 1928 Model A Ford pickup truck I was working on for a family friend. Not entirely my screwup.. No spark. Tore the distributor apart, all 4 parts of it.. filed points, no fire. New condenser, no fire. Tear apart the security wire to the switch, I have power. Or ground as it was, positive ground and all. Take the cap and body off and turn the engine over with a plug hooked right to the coil, good fire. Throw some little piece of wood out of the bottom of the distributor.. Reassemble, nothing. Went round and round with it for a whole afternoon. Turns out the housing was warped and the little piece of wood Farma Brown put in there served to keep clearance between the points and the rotor. ..Still in there and serving admirably. 1921 Evinrude ELTO, belonged to a friend. Called a 'knuckle buster' due to the open flywheel and starter knob that spun around at the top. I had never run one. No throttle, only a fuel mixer and spark advance with throws in either direction. No reverser or clutch. All you had to do was set the timer forward or back, and flip it over compression. Do make note of the decal being wrong, and that if started quickly, your boat may jump back onto the trailer in a scalded hurry.. 1926 Maytag gas washing machine. Was showing her off at a show, kicked it over and it sounded odd, but was running. Close enough for the very engine that taught so many little children to curse.. Went to demonstrate the wringer after washing a few towels. Put it in gear and tried over and over to thread the cloth into the rollers. Took a moment before I realized it was working backwards. Timing had drifted and it fired off in reverse somehow. Had no way to pull the flywheel on sight, and after attempting several times further to start it the right way, I gave up and belted the whole unit to my WH Electro 12 that was also present. That Kohler idles a lot faster than the Maytag runs wide open, you know.. Finally gave up and left it static display. Made enough of a fool of myself. Working with the old iron I mess with so often makes for some pretty easy opportunities.

My father was born in Germany, never know we could be related. Looking forward to meeting my long lost might-be relative.

After i have my plans finalized how to enlarge the Snowblower for the 656, i do today a little work on the Turbine’s bearing housing. The Turbine have allready a Bearing but it was previously made as a Front Attachment. So i decide to rework it and improve that for a Beltdrive system with a second bearing to be more stable even on a stronger Beltspan. To do that, i reactivated my 15year old little Lathe. She‘s just a tiny little one, but works so far after several improvements i have done to her. I begin with planing firstly the ends and after that i machined a second Bearing holder in it. Because the original bearing has few felt ripples, so i hammer it off and ordered 2 new bearings and decide to rework both sides, that the bearings will fit snug without too much pressure force. Before the bearing snaps hardly out and needs few hard hammer hits to become loose. That must be changed. Now it fits without too much force, tightener pressure with the fingers is enough, maybe a gently hammer tap will be needed, but they will now slide in with nearly no force. The opposite side with its new Bearingmount Where also the bearing fit‘s snug with a little more pressure than a gently finger pressure. Prewarming with the induction heater and they will flip easy in. To release the bearings against any span to the housing, i built a bushing for the inside 0,05 over. they should be fit between the Fan Shaft the both bearing inner‘s and the bushings and to the Belt pulley, so they can be tight mounted. My plan is to stabilize the bearings together even from too much side torque on a higher beltspan. New Bearings are ordered, hopefully they came quick.

Don't spend money on parts until you have removed the piston and rod and have the crank and cylinder measured to see what you may need.

Connecting rod oil dipper?

Too late, CNN has bugged my computer and they are already headed your way! Heat and vibration tend to aggravate corroded connections. Take your time and do a thorough cleaning of all terminals or Murphy's Law will kick in at the worst possible time and place.

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Two beautiful Those plastic hubcaps on the 312 have substantially more drag than the chrome ones on the 1045, that alone would account for 1/10 MPH difference!

@krystolo we’re gonna wanna find you an air filter soon too, so no poo poo dust turns your fun into a poo poo day.

Yes, you need an air filter base, filter and prefilter and a cover.

My youngest daughter Leonie has the habit of collecting her dog poop in bags, which is absolute okay. Because we looking something on her Car and in order not to keep lugging the bag around with her, she tied it to the rear window wiper of her car .. I had to laugh a lot when she Drive while it begins to rain she switched on the rear wiper. like a waving hand ... hahahahaha ..

Yeah I remember that. Look like popcorn and boogers mixed together.

Since this is NOT an electrical function, you will have to fabricate a MECHANICAL safety that locks the lever.... Dennis is correct when he states that you have to create an electric safety that in turn operates A MECHANICAL DEVICE that will electrically operate when you leave the seat. You are looking to do a function that is not available.

This switch only shuts down the tractor and only if PTO is engaged. No direct interaction with motion control. While engine is spinning down, it can still move. I think the idea is to force it to neutral while leaving the engine running and leave the existing PTO/Seat safety switch as it is.

I had a 416-8 that I did a " refreshing" of last year. Kick my self for selling it. They are a beast of a tractor. Before and after pics. When it was finished I sold it for 850. Custom set of decals from Terry, new seat, repaired and repainted the deck. Gave the engine a tune up, replaced all fluids and ALOT of cleaning and waxing. A little elbow grease goes a long way.

Try to rustle my herd and you’ll get a knot on your head and tutelary!

I experienced another air hose mess in shop class, but fast forward to my senior year. Second year of auto shop, third teacher by then (I don’t think I drove them away... just circumstances). It was class demonstration time and one of the hanging retractable hoses let out had somehow developed a hole but the entire wing of shops used the same compressed air system. The hose was doing the classic firehouse snake whip and the brand new teacher (first or second week of his career brand new!) tried to catch it. His front tooth caught it in front of 15-ish high school kids! Busted up, missing a tooth and bloody, somehow he caught it and was able to hold it until someone found a shut off.

That reminds me of one too... We were remodeling our home about 35 years ago. MAJOR remodeling. We should have moved to a hotel but we were young and decided to 'rough it out'. One evening my wife commented that the ONLY room that hadn't been affected by the renovation was the downstairs bathroom which we had done separately a couple years prior. So... I was doing the plumbing in the new upstairs bathroom which naturally is directly above the downstairs one. There was no subfloor down yet so I had plywood scraps across the floor joists. I should have tacked them down. Unbeknownst to me, one of the scraps had slipped off the edge of the joist such that when I stepped on it, the edge went down, my leg went through the sheetrock ceiling of the previously unaffected downstairs bathroom, and the other edge of the plywood scrap came up such that my leg was pinched between the joist and the plywood. Of course when I put my weight on the plywood to try and pull my leg out, that weight only pinched my leg harder! I was STUCK! Everything I tried only got me more stucker. Like quicksand. My wife wasn't home, not due back for another half hour. Back then, no cell phones. Soon I heard her car in the driveway... she came into the house, had to pee, so headed straight for the bathroom downstairs first thing, only to see my leg hanging out of the ceiling. Before even asking "Are you all right?", she said "Well... so much for this room being the only one untouched!" Moral of the story: Don't trust your cat-like instincts. Tack down temporary flooring when working on an open floor!

There is one from my high school days that would qualify here. I had a 1956 DeSoto and was giving it a tune-up, the dual point distributor is located at the rear of the engine so I was laying across the engine replacing the points. Lighting wasn't all that great in the school's auto shop and I asked another kid to shine a light between the hood and cowl so I could see. He was a bit vertically challenged (short) and couldn't reach far enough to get the light where I needed it. He jumped up on the fender and leaned across the hood with the light in hand. At this point the hood came down on top of me and had the other kid's arm pinched between the hood and cowl so he couldn't move. The shop teacher heard the commotion and came over, he was laughing so hard he could hardly talk. He called all the other students over so they could have a good laugh at our expense too.

Jim, Rylee has a 401 that has been deemed original. I’ll do what I can to help with that at least! If the clutch idler arm is too close to call, I can get calipers out and take better measurements too

There is just sooo much to choose from. Lets see, about 6yrs ago I answered an add from some in Princeton WI looking for an idle pulley for a Suburban. Then a couple years later that and I fed beer to some who was wearing shorts & work boots, after he wandered into our camp at the big show. Naw! Those were actually both good events. Don't you worry, I'll narrow down some thing for real. Might have to sleep on it in order to pick the right one.

This is flux, solid mig (with gas of course) and aluminum spool gun capable to, 120/240v switchable. Got one of the "old" stick elders here too.

It would seem we should have heard from @WHX24 , @Achto and @pullstart by now. There is not enough room on this thread for my list of BHM.

At the end of daylight-savings time last fall I set all the clocks ahead one hour. Since everything was shut down it didn't make much difference at the time. Guess I was practicing for this coming weekend.

Silver color test w/ red flashing LED

Probably... To Maine....

I think we should have a forum topic dedicated to Bone Head Moves! Everybody makes them. Whether working on our tractors, our house, driving, whatever. Might as well share them and give others a laugh, that might be have a sour day. Might pick them up for a bit. Here is my "Bone Head Move" for the day. I have been waiting on parts for another Lawn Boy motor. They arrived yesterday. After disassembling the K-181, and running some errands, I decided to finish the rebuild on it. Got it all back together, mounted it on my temporary stand, hooked a fuel tank, and started cranking. Nope Won't go. This is unusual for me as I don't often have troubles after a rebuild. Checked for spark, got spark. Try with a little starting fluid, pops right off. Hmmm....not getting gas. Loosen the carb bowl a bit, just to make sure it's getting there from the tank. Yep, I can see it running out on the floor. I can see it, but I can't smell it. This motor happens to be from 1964. It runs on 16-1 gas/oil ratio, rather than 32-1 of newer mowers. . I don't have many of these, so I just have a little gas mixed up in a milk jug, for these older motors. There in lies the problem. I also have some Purple Power cleaner and water mixed up in a milk jug for my sonic cleaner. Ya know what? That stuff won't burn. And you can take THAT to the bank! Purple Power and water look remarkably like gas and Lawn Boy oil mixed together. After cleaning everything thoroughly, and replacing fuel filter, it runs just fine. A guy my age should not make Bone Head Moves like this, but it happens all too often. Share your Bone Head Move. Someone might need a .

Yeah that's what I did. One of the OG welds was like 7 layers thick stuck out about .5 inch took 30min to grind it sum what flat hahaha once the paints on shell be completely solid lol

My 520 shuts down if the motion control is in anything other than neutral with the seat switch working, PTO on or not. But it is also 10 years newer than the OPs.

Speaking of mixing up plastic jugs and substances looking the same... Empty windshield washer bottles come in handy for making up 50/50 mix of DexCool antifreeze. They also come in handy as 'portable urinals' for the garage. Guess what I did MORE THAN one time? (you don't lose points if you guess wrong! In fact, you can't guess wrong!) BUT... I have never once pizzed directly into the radiator!

As I said the new set-up still waiting to get gas, but I did get a much better ground clamp for it just need to install it now. You can see that the welder sits about an inch forward of the top shelf the only issuse with this is you can't lift the side panel to check the spool the way it sets, a small angle bolted to the front will cure that.