Leaderboard

found your missing parts in the trash can? A few days ago I received 4 oil seals that I had ordered. I opened the package, looked at them, put them back in the package, laid them on my work bench. This morning, they were gone. No where to be found. I decided to look in my trash can. Yep, there they were. 4 brand new oil seals. I have done this more times than I care to admit. Once with some very, VERY, rare Lawn Boy parts. Quite possibly irreplaceable, and if possible, a whole lot of money. Once one of my little white trash can bags gets full, I tend to hold on to it for a few days, before putting it in the trash barrel, just in case. My hearing aid is perfect My glasses fit me fine I really like my dentures But LORD I miss my mind

I lost every single bolts that holds a transmission in my 1999 Chevy truck, along with the starter. I borrowed from other parts vehicles to get it up and running. Luckily cleaning my shop a mystery unmarked box revealed everything I was missing!

69’ Electro. This is a lot of money and time. I’m a little further along now than the pics, got the wheels back from powder coater today. Why am I doing this? I already have a real nice low hour 97’ 520.

Stuck my finger in the light socket... I was luminary......

Graded the back yard as it finely got dry enough do do something with it. Had trouble with my septic tank filling up with water a month or so back. I have a area drain out there I got stop up one Sunday when it was raining every day and back water over the tank. Went out in the rain and open the drain and did as much as I could by hand. The area has filled in in the last thirty years. I went out a couple days later with the 312 and blade in a big mud puddle and open it up some more. The 312 surprised me running in 6" of water it was spinning constantly pushing a blade full of mud but it never stopped. Made a huge mess but got most of\ the water away from the tank. I'll have to wait until it rains again to see if it needs anything else. url=https://postimg.cc/jWYrvhzt][/url]

I once heard about this guy Lou Minary. Folks used to say he was pretty bright.

I hide stuff weekly from myself now and started to leave notes......where are those notes? doesn't have anything to do with throwing away anything but does remind me my memory is not the same. I bought my wife the exact silver bracelets two years in a row! She wears them both....like cleopatra or something.

I know you’re a visual dude... my buddy dropped his in the toilet, just after peeing the other night!

Was the 10 mm in there as well?!

If you use a torch to heat the spot you intend to drill through until it is red and then let it cool you should have no problem drilling it. The rest of the piece will retain its hardness.

Not really work on a Horsie but I did replace the tool box on the Horsie Hauler!

March 9, 1936 Here’s one for ya @953 nut Richard!

I have not found anything in the trashcan yet but I have searched high and low for days for something stupid only to find out there it was in plain sight!

From my machine shop days drilling hardened tool steels, we used solid carbide drill bits , very expensive like @Achto said and also fragile if not use correctly (like glass will shatter) if using coolants always use it, or keep it dry use air to keep chips removed, a regular grind stone will not resharpen these has to be an aluminum oxide wheel (green) if they chip, around 750 rpm for a 1/4" bit faster for smaller slower as they get bigger, "medium" pressure and don't rush depends on hole depth how many "pecks" (plunge and retract) you should use instead of one steady all through motion, make sure your work piece is clamped securely and with sufficient space under as to not drill into the table, let the bit cool before drilling the next hole. End Mills should not be used in a drill or drill press for hardened steels only rigid milling machines. Most drills and drill presses have to much circular run out for this (osolation). Masonry carbide tipped bits will work but the bit itself is soft and the carbide is only 1/8" at most soldered to the shank. I'm sure @lynnmor or even @Ed Kennell should know more about this than me, I'm just a "mutt" without papers who did this for a decade to pay the bills.

and then there was this guy

By some of the replies I am really starting to be concerned about the health of my Red Square Brothers, I think your starting to lose it.

Luminary went into a bar... lum says to ary: Not many bright bulbs in this chandelier...

Does it work with wives???

Many moons ago when my children were young one of my sons couldn't find his retainer. We were at the mall and had just got a late snack before we headed home. After looking around I figured the obvious thing had probable happened, that he had dumped it in the trash when he dumped his food tray. The mall was fairly empty so as we got up to leave, I took the top the top off the trash can, pulled out the black trash bag and walked out of the mall with it. When we got home i emptied the bag on the drive way and there was his retainer. As they say, what we do for our kids is ......

Some really amusing answers above. I'm pretty sure I could relate to most of them. The only thing is..... Why did I click into this thread??? Well whatever it doesn't matter but I'm off to the store to get another tape measure or six because I can't find any of the ones I already own.

Not parts, but...Good thing cell phones ring...

As Paul Harvey would say, "in a moment, the rest of the story". A Look Back at the Historic Races on the Sands of Daytona Beach By LINDSEY FISHER FEBRUARY 27, 2012 Red Farmer competes in the 100-mile Modified and Sportsmen stock car race at Daytona Beach in Feb. 1953 Images: SpeedHunters Daytona Beach, Florida is known for many things. Among them is the expansive stretches of beach and one of motorsports’ most historic tracks, the Daytona International Speedway. Although these two things are separate now, they used to be one entity when vintage racers took to the sandy Daytona Beach Road Course for some classic hot rodding fun. With the Daytona 500 race taking place this past Monday, SpeedHunters has come up with several amazing vintage photos of the Daytona Beach races. Check some of them out below. The Daytona Beach Road Course got its unofficial start back in 1902 when the founder of Oldsmobile and Reo Motor Car Company, Ransom E. Olds and the founder of Winston Motor Carriage Company, Alexander Winston staged a race at the Ormond Beach, just down the way from Daytona Beach. With the first organized event taking place at Ormond Beach in 1903, the sandy course became the premier location to chase down the land speed record. In 1905, the sanctioning body for the Ormond Beach races built a clubhouse right at the edge of Daytona Beach. This caused local media to credit Daytona Beach with holding the races. Between 1905 and 1935, at least 13 organized events took place on the beach and 15 land speed records were set, including the 276.82mph record set in 1935 by Sir Malcolm Campbell. Once speeds reached well over 200mph, the Bonneville Salt Flats became the choice course since Daytona Beach was too narrow for the higher speeds. In 1936 Daytona Beach officials contacted Sig Haugdahl, a local racer, about organizing an automobile race at the 3.2-mile course. Haugdahl obliged and is credited with designing the course which ran down the highway and then looped back around on the sand of Daytona Beach. Unfortunately the sandy turns of the course became almost impassable at the 1936 event and it was shut down after 72 of the 78 scheduled laps. The city of Daytona Beach had posted a $5,000 purse for the race and ended up losing a reported $22,000. Daytona Beach decided not to promote any more events. After another race in 1937 lost the sponsoring Daytona Beach Elks Club money as well, William France Sr. took over promoting and running the Daytona Beach racing events. In 1938, the two races held at the beach made money, $200 for the first and $20,000 for the second. After a couple more years of successful races at Daytona, the attack on Pearl Harbor came in 1942 and racing mostly came to a halt until 1946, when racing returned to the track after the war. Racing at the Daytona Beach Road Course was extremely dangerous, but that didn't stop hundreds of racers from participating in events or legends from being made. Once things were in full sing again, Daytona Beach was the place to be if you were into cars. The 3.2-mile course was expanded to 4.2 miles and brought armatures and legendary racers alike. It was also the place of origin for the NASCAR series, which was legally sanctioned on February 21st, 1948. NASCAR held its first event at the Daytona Road Course days before they were sanctioned an held races their until 1950 when the Darlington Speedway was finished. In 1957, Wally Parks drove the Hot Rod Magazine '57 Plymouth project car "Suddenly" to its amazing 160.175mph top speed By 1953, the Daytona Beach Race Course was being outgrown by the large crowds attending events and countless racers bargaining for time on the course. So France proposed plans for a permanent racecourse call the Daytona International Speedway. In 1956, construction on the course began and was completed in time for the 1959 NASCAR premiere event- the first Daytona 500. The demise of the Daytona Beach Road Course came a year earlier with the last event being held in 1958. The Daytona Beach Road Course was a place of legends. Early stars like Red Byron, Buddy Shuman, Raymond Parks, Tim Flock, Bob Flock, Sam Rice, Wayne Pritchett and Betty Skelton all raced there and their racing careers were bettered because of it. NASCAR, hot rodding and motorsports in general own Daytona Beach Road Course a lot for their beginnings. In a time when NASCAR racers represent only a few car makes and models, it is hard to see a resemblance between then and now, but world of motorsports wouldn’t be the same without racing on the sands of Daytona Beach. Much more interesting than the march 9th trivia I came up with.

A little behind with my weekend up date. It was a "fun with round stock weekend". The steering shaft for the fan gear was badly warn so I made up a new one. The shaft for the steering wheel was rough as well so made a new one of those. And.. the spindles. Any surface that can wear on these has, so with the help of a friend I'm going to try to reproduce these. I will also be upgrading the way that the wheels are held on. The snap ring idea was OK but I much prefer the wheel being held on with a bolt. A little time on the lathe to get the threaded hole drilled and tapped in the shaft is as far as I have the spindles so far. My friend is going to make the bend for me and then I will take over again. They will need the cross holes drilled for the roll pins that hold the steering arms on, plus the backer washers will need to be welded in place. Other than the spindles I am ready for sandblasting and some paint.

You ain't seen nothin yet Plunge.....

Today, on March 9, 1959 a luminary person was born

The question is how hard? I would guess that your work piece is under Rc 44 and that can be drilled with a HSS bit, of course cobalt would be better. Keep the speed down and use cutting oil, or other oil if that is what you have. Make the drill cut, either make it go or get out. I didn't watch the video above, but I have used masonry drills on hard steel. They should be run fast, just keep in mind that the carbide is silvered soldered in place and extreme heat will cause failure. Cheap masonry drills may have little support behind the carbide and fail if pushed too hard. Candle wax is a good lubricant for carbide drills. I would use a smaller drill first, but not so small that it breaks easily. Do not go in small steps, allow a substantial amount for the next drill. You should download a speed feed chart, there are many available, some are bad and the rest are worse.

Had a guy working next to me misplace a flywheel from an S-10 Blazer. Unfortunately for him. He didn't notice it was missing until he already had the transmission bolted up to the engine!

@Addison_smith The 600 range sounds about right here in Michigan. I hope it’s just curiosity on value, because it’s worth way more than a big box store mower, all day long!

Most of us already have a nice (you fill in the blank). We don't NEED another one, probably couldn't justify getting another one, guess we are just wanting another one. I can't have just one! ! ! ! Or as Flip Wilson said, "the Devil made me do it"!

I purchased a 1/4" Titanium-Aluminum-Nitride (TiAlN) Coated Carbide bit from here for drilling out rusted in roll pins that won't move. https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/material~carbide/carbide-drill-bits-11/ It was $35.60 for the one 1/4" drill bit. Why was it so expensive??? Because it's worth it!! High speed low pressure and his bit will walk through a roll pin like you were drilling through aluminum. I've drilled out several pins and it still cuts like the day I bought it. One note: I never drill all the way through a roll pin. I stop about an 1/8" shy of going through and punch the last little bit out. I don't want to chance catching the last edge and have the bit snap.

Graded the back yard as it finely got dry enough do do something with it. Had trouble with my septic tank filling up with water a month or so back. I have a area drain out there I got stop up one Sunday when it was raining every day and back water over the tank. Went out in the rain and open the drain and did as much as I could by hand. The area has filled in in the last thirty years. I went out a couple days later with the 312 and blade in a big mud puddle and open it up some more. The 312 surprised me running in 6" of water it was spinning constantly pushing a blade full of mud but it never stopped. Made a huge mess but got most of\ the water away from the tank. I'll have to wait until it rains again to see if it needs anything else. url=https://postimg.cc/jWYrvhzt][/url] I had this on the back of the 312 that I ripped up the area before using the blade

Hi everybody I have just bought a Wheel Horse tractor, rebuild for tractor pulling and with a Kohler Comander CH25S engine. I need it for towing my boat trailer from the beach to our summer house, a distance of approx. 200 m. I have already tested the tractor with trailer on the beach - it works very well😄 What have I bought? I think a C model, but which number? I can’t find any sticker with details or number on the frame, I want to bee more exact about the model, because I need some spare parts. I attach some images - hopefully somebody can help me. Thank you in advance👍 Kresten from Denmark

They aren’t THAT classy in PA!

I gave blood this afternoon, no heavy work. Trail ride!

I should have taken pics when I had to lift it out of the mudhole it was stuck in with the backhoe. It was like carrying a muddy turtle by the tail dangling off the hoe all the way back to the driveway. The neighbor guy got a good laugh.

Somebody's jonesin

Nice Lumins Airy.

Seriously? Don’t you get into enough trouble with just one?

@pullstart Kevin, my SIL says that if you only have one then you have none. Something could always go wrong and then down and out of commission where as if you have two your still good to go. That’s with anything.

Looking forward to it being warm enough to break out my Jesus Cruisers again!!

I made a new plow edge about 2-3 years ago. Ideally you make square holes so you can use those countersunk head plow bolts. OK, I like tools and I like to do as much a I can myself. But I try to ask myself is this a one time job, or will I do it several times making purchasing a tool worth it. I took the new and old plow edge to a welding shop that has an iron worker. They have square hole punches and have no trouble punching through the hard material. That is what I did for mine. Regarding that drill bit Achto posted, I see drilling out numerous roll pins in my future. Just might need to put that in my shopping for the next time I make an order!

Questions can help us gain knowledge.

you stole it from the guy. Just A running k341 in my area will sell for 450-500. all the pullers want them.

The actual hardness of 1055 will depend on the heat treat and tempering cycles that have been done. The hardness on the Rockwell C scale (Rc) could be anywhere from 30 to 60. 30 to 40 is drillable, 40 to 50 can be drilled with more effort, 50 to 60 good luck. Have you done a file test on your material? If a file cuts it, you should be able to drill it. My choice would be a carbide drill lubes with something like Tap Eze in a drill press. A smaller pilot hole would help, maybe 1/8 to 3/16 for a final hole size of 3/8. A propane torch should be able to anneal spots on material maybe 3/16 thick. Heat to cherry red, then let cool in air - don't quench with water 'cause you will re-harden it that way. Even better to cover the piece in ashes to cool it more slowly.

The "grenade gears" would be the counter balance gears not the ACR. Yes most guys leave them out when a rebuild is done, if they are not timed exact they will cause damage. if left out most people don't notice any difference.

I'm pretty sure that the balancing gears don't appear in models under 12 HP.

I see nothing wrong with having two of the same thing... *edit* seeing this picture, made me realize Putt Putt has been sitting since September 28! I cleaned the points and fired him up today!

That's the strange part, what joy it brings to a person, to bring one of these tractors back to better days. Whether it's a complete restoration, or just going through all the mechanicals. Once you're done with that, you'll be looking for another one.

IDK I have people ask me all the time why and why so many? I tell them my hobby is tractors, some people collect baseball cards, why? Just like @giddyap says "it's my thing" Your thing is looking good!

Got the cart today Billy....fits fine. Some assembly required. Helmet must be on the slow boat from China yet. The whole setup will be good enough for what little welding I do and the women I go out with! I'll do a thread in tools I get a little practice on it. You guys can critique my beads.